June 2021 – THORNBERRY

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Hope and Nova mashup dress

This dress that I made back in January has turned out to be one of my favourites for 2021 – although we are only half way through the year! It’s a pattern mashup between the Style Arc Hope and Nova dresses.

I sewed both the Hope and Nova dresses last year, and really liked both of them. As most of you know, there is a multitude of loose waisted, tiered skirted, puffed sleeved dress patterns around at the moment (and the shops are full of them too). Rather than buy yet another pattern, I figured that I should just use the bodice of the Hope dress with the skirt tiers of the Nova.

My patterns were both size 12. This time around I cut the back bodice of the Hope dress on the fold, as I knew that I would be able to just pull it on over my small head. I incorporated a high rounded upper back alteration, lowered the front neckline 5/8″, and finished it with bias binding rather than using the supplied facing pattern pieces.

From memory I used a slightly wider elastic in the sleeve hem casings than suggested. I prefer the look of wider elastic at the moment, but there’s a fair chance that I selected width based on what was available in my stash.

I used the Nova skirt pattern pieces, each of them shortened an inch (maybe it was two). I already knew that I liked the gathering ratios in the Style Arc pattern. Unfortunately I forgot that this was a directional print until too late when constructing the dress and managed to have the back panel of the lower tier upside down. I didn’t realise until the entire skirt was constructed, and decided to just leave it as it was. The amount of deconstruction that would have been required to fix it didn’t pass my cost-benefit analysis!

Speaking of fabric, this is a light cotton sateen from the Holli Zollinger for Nerida Hansen range, bought at The House of Cloth in Bendigo when we visited late last year. It’s soft and as lovely to wear as it was to sew with, and has held up well to washing.

Every time I wear this it gets loads of compliments. It’s one of those times where the fabric and the pattern just work together perfectly! It’s superbly swishy around my legs as I move, and can be worn comfortably through a range of temperatures.

Wednesday, 30 June, 2021 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Flynn sleeveless jacket

Back in late 2019 I sewed the Flynn Jacket by In The Folds. I have worn this jacket regularly, so when I needed a pattern to use with a piece of hand-dyed, hand-woven fabric I’d bought in Laos a couple of years ago, the Flynn popped back into my mind.

The pattern has a sleeveless option, and the option of using a contrast fabric for the lower jacket and bands. I had just enough of the Laos fabric for the front and back, and found some denim in stash that blended nicely for the rest.

I shortened the jacket this time around, taking a fold out of all pieces at around waist height. This meant that I also had to smooth out the curves of the front pieces. It seemed to work quite well. I didn’t bind the seam allowances with bias this time around, instead using the overlocker to finish them and prevent ravelling. One of the great things about this jacket pattern is the deep pockets that are built into the front curves. Clever drafting!

I did iron this before I headed out for the day, but these photos were taken after a day of shopping and a movie! The white top that I am wearing underneath is a Sewaholic Renfrew tee.

I find it challenging to get white tees that I really like. It’s hard to get nice drape and fit in a fabric that is also fairly opaque. This one works pretty well for layering. I was hoping for a long sleeved tee, but just didn’t have enough fabric so had to do the 3/4 length sleeve instead. I think that the waistband was also pieced.

I tossed up whether this is a vest or a sleeveless jacket, but decided it wasn’t a vest because they are normally quite close fitted. Semantics! Either way, I’m pleased that I finally turned this souvenir into a wearable garment. I actually sewed this in December 2020 and the photos are from January. The jeans I’m wearing in these photos are Style Arc Blakley stretch jeans, sewn in 2018 and worn regularly.

Tuesday, 29 June, 2021 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

McCalls 7325

I’d been trying to lay my hands on a copy of McCalls 7325 for a while. Like McCalls 7969, it’s a popular pattern that is often out of stock. I now know why; both designs are so wearable that I’m not surprised that they’re so popular!

As is usually the case, it’s about matching the fabric that you use to the pattern so that both bring out the best in one another. In this case I used a block printed lightweight Indian cotton that I’d bought in Kuching.

This is a directional print, so once I figured out which way was ‘up’ I was careful during cutting that everything ran the same way. Once it was all sewn up I thought that it needed some trim – then remembered the crocheted bobble trim that was in my stash (bought from Tessuti some years ago). It was just perfect!

From the pattern website: Pullover tops and tunic (fitted through bust) have self-lined upper front and back, gathered front, back and sleeve cap, and sleeve variations. Narrow hem. A, B: Sleeve slits. B: Ruffles. Purchased trim A and cording B. C: Lower sleeves. C, D: Elasticized lower edge of sleeves.

My top is essentially view A, but with the necktie from view B. Construction wasn’t difficult; the instructions are pretty clear. You do need to pay attention to the markings. And although this looks like a loose top, it’s still fairly fitted around the back and bust. Be careful not to downsize or it could be too tight under the arms! I possibly sewed size 14 (maybe it was 12).

I will possibly sew this pattern again at some stage. There are lots of opportunities to mix fabrics or play with texture or direction, with the yokes, and the sleeve piecing of view C or D.

I definitely recommend this pattern, especially if you like a relaxed or more ‘boho’ look. Your fabric selection will definitely affect the overall vibe. I’m very pleased with mine exactly as it is!

Saturday, 26 June, 2021Thursday, 24 June, 2021 by thornberry

Around the block, patchwork, quilting

Turning blocks into tops

During the big patchwork shelves tidy during second lockdown last year I lamented that I had ‘lost’ my practice blocks from the Around The Block quilting bee I took part in during 2009/2010 (yes, that long ago and my quilt top still isn’t a finished quilt). I really was a novice patchworker/quilter when I took part in the quilting bee, and many of the participants were super experienced. Because of this, I sewed practice blocks before I cut into anyone’s good fabric. I would do a block in scraps, then I’d do a couple more in Kaffe Fassett fabrics that I would keep to eventually make my own quilt. In January I found them all my practice blocks!

They were stored in a pizza box safely tucked away pretty much where they were expected to be. I have no idea how I overlooked them so many times! I quickly joined nine blocks that had been made from scraps into a rather eclectic little quilt top.

Two larger practice blocks, both from Kaffe Fassett fabric, were the perfect size to become cushions.

I quilted them on to some scrap batting that was in stash, then turned them into cushion covers with a lapped back zip opening. I used Kaffe fabric for the back as well. The quilting has given them plenty of dimension!

Then it was time to join the Kaffe blocks. My theory by now was ‘better done than perfect’, so I didn’t agonise much about how I would join them or in what colour. I just sashed them together, in a fairly neutral colour that I had in my stash. I have been trying to use more of what I have.

There were also four Dresden Plates in the pizza box, along with some yo-yos. They needed to turn into something too!

I figured that if I appliqued the Dresden Plates to a plain background, and sewed up another five patchwork blocks, I’d have nine blocks which should be enough for another small quilt top. I raided my stash, bought a couple more fat quarters that coordinated, then got as far as sewing up the extra blocks. However I still need to do the applique and join these blocks together. I’ll probably sash them in a colour similar to the carpet!

Then in February Emma Jansen started another sewalong, this time for her Bronte’s Stars pattern. Once again I raided my fat quarters stash!

I really enjoy playing with colour and pattern, and thinking about what will actually work best in a quilt where scale and value and contrast really come into play. I’m still more used to looking at fabrics from a garment perspective, which doesn’t always work for patchwork and quilting where fabrics are cut up into much smaller pieces! I have bought a blue/grey solid to use as the plain contrast for this quilt, and have got as far as washing and ironing all the fabrics. But that’s as much progress as I’ve made thus far! There is still a lot of pairing of fabrics to do, and there is also a fair bit of precision required to piece this quilt top accurately. I will need to be in the right headspace before I actually start on the blocks.

Friday, 25 June, 2021Thursday, 24 June, 2021 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

bits and pieces

I’m still catching up with blogging things I sewed at the beginning of this year and in the last few months of last! I’d like to get myself back to my old habits where I’d blog an item pretty much straight after making it – but there’s a lot to get up here before that becomes possible. The backlog is significant!

I don’t seem to have any modelled photos of this pair of Style Arc Daphne pants. I’ve sewn them twice before and find them very easy to wear. The waist comes up nice and high, and the back and side panels are in bengaline so have plenty of stretch. I also like the detail of the tucks on the legs. I used linen for this pair.

I sewed Clare a little skirt in summer from Lekala 5347.

The finished skirt was not right. It wasn’t what Clare had envisaged in her head; it didn’t look quite like the pattern illustration; it went straight to the op shop.

What was more successful was a pair of bathers bottoms to go with a purchased (K-mart) bikini. Clare really liked the bikini top, but found the bottoms had too little coverage for her liking. I’d had success with the Friday Pattern Company Vernazza Two Piece bottoms, so used that pattern again. Fabric came from Rathdowne Fabrics. I used a lighter weight for the lining than the outer. These are actually very straightforward to sew, and Clare was very happy with them! Much more the type of bathers coverage that she prefers, both for actually swimming in and for general comfort.

In summer I took a few photos of dresses that were sewn years prior but still enjoy regular wear. I thought that some of you might like to see them when first sewn/worn and now! The Tessuti Pia dress, sewn/worn in 2014.

The Pia dress that I sewed in late 2015 is also still in my wardrobe enjoying summer wear. Both dresses still work with my style, and the dress shape seems to handle most of my size fluctuations.

This Named Clothing Inari dress, was first sewn/worn in 2016.

Like the Pia, it’s linen, and non-constricting. There are quite a few garments in my wardrobe that are definite favourites and will probably remain in rotation for quite a few years to come!

Thursday, 24 June, 2021 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Helen's Closet Patterns, sewing

Helen’s Closet Pona jacket #2

My first Helen’s Closet Pona jacket has been a welcome addition to my wardrobe. So much so that I have used the pattern a second time!

This time around I sewed it in a textured thai cotton, a fairly mid-weight stable fabric.

The most difficult thing about sewing this jacket was deciding which side of the fabric to use! It’s woven in navy and white, and the floating white threads make a different pattern on either side. As you can see, I eventually went with the more ‘hashtag’ effect.

From the pattern website: The Pona Jacket is a modern outer layer that is easy to make and style. An extra-wide facing allows this unlined jacket to drape open in the front, no closures necessary! Pona has an oversized blazer feel, complete with pockets and a statement lapel. Make a modern, cropped Pona in linen for warmer weather or a longer jacket in wool for fall and winter. Pona is a perfect beginner jacket pattern! Recommended Fabrics: Light to medium weight fabrics with no stretch, such as mid-weight linen or cotton, corduroy, and wool. Pona can be made in a lighter-weight, drapey fabric such as Tencel twill for a more fluid look.

As you can also see, this time around I sewed the longer version. Those deep pockets are highly practical! As I mentioned the last time I sewed this jacket, the large lapels have really grown on me since this pattern was first released. They somehow give it a little drama while simultaneously adding to the casual feel of the jacket. Sounds contradictory, but I think that it works. The collar rolls so nicely too.

This is a terrific relaxed, unstructured light layer for in between weather. The instructions were excellent – Helen’s Closet is outstanding in that regard. Helpful, clear diagrams, good layout, and words carefully chosen so that the finished product is just as it should be.

Sunday, 20 June, 2021Saturday, 11 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Lily dress as top

I first sewed the Tessuti Lily dress in 2012. That dress is still in my wardrobe and is still worn! I have actually sewn the pattern another three times since then (once for Mum and twice for me). The orange linen version is still in my wardrobe getting regular wear, and the sleeveless version was worn and washed so much that it’s actually been worn out! Each time I wear the Lily dress I think about how much I like the fit across my shoulders, and think that I really should use the same pattern to make a top. Finally, that’s what I did!

The beautiful Japanese seersucker that I used was a gift from a generous friend. The check is printed, not woven in to the fabric. I decided to keep the flare in the side seams, and just cut the pattern straight across at the desired length (mostly determined by the amount of fabric that was available).

I find this such an easy top to sew! The neck is finished with bias binding used as a facing. Hems are simply a narrow hem turned twice and topstitched. I used the overlocker to finish seam allowances, but otherwise sewed it on the machine.

Have you noticed the white pants that I am wearing with it? These are the same pattern as the orange pants in the last post – McCalls 2699.

This time they are sewn in linen from The Cloth Shop. I had a pair of wide leg white linen pants many years ago that I wore to death (I had a wide leg black washed silk pair as well that was also worn to death) and I’ve always thought that I should sew a replacement pair. It was a bit of a challenge finding white linen that was the right weight for pants, but fortunately The Cloth Shop had a range to choose from. This linen is just right.

I did a stash dive again for elastic and a toggle for the waist. This is a very easy adjustable finish.

At around the same time I was planning to sew the Lily dress as a top I saw in this Instagram post from Tessuti, showing Silva’s Lily dress as top. She removed flare at the hemline and used the fabric selvedges at the hems. I might give that a go next time I am working with a fabric that has an interesting selvedge!

Size wise, I sewed the Medium, which according to their size chart is for a 96cm/38″ bust. My measurements are one size up, but the Medium seems to fit me well. Tessuti offer this pattern from a 32″ to 42″ bust, so the size range is pretty limited. I find that Tessuti patterns are ones that work well for me and stay in my wardrobe for some time.

Saturday, 19 June, 2021Saturday, 11 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, vintage patterns

Vintage McCalls 2699

I am all over the place with my blogging timeline at the moment! These pants and jacket were sewn and photographed last year – I wore this outfit on Christmas day.

Firstly, to the pattern. It’s a Lida Baday pattern, McCalls 2699, from 2000. And it’s been in my pattern stash all that time. Pity it took me twenty years to make it!

I have sewn a couple of other McCalls Lida Baday patterns in the past, and I think that there is still another one (or two) waiting for me to get around to sewing them. It was so good sewing from an older pattern – those lovely 5/8 inch seam allowances, clear markings, and only a few sizes to distinguish between. I think that I sewed size 12 for both the pants and jacket.

So, where will I start? Maybe with the pants.

As you can see, these are a wide-leg, elastic waisted pair of pants. They do however have some interesting features. The side seam pocket construction is a little unusual, and results in pockets that sit flat during wear and have attractive topstitched detail around the opening. There is a waist casing for elastic and a toggle – I used contrasting round elastic and a toggle that I found in stash. See, it’s handy to keep all those slightly random things for the one day when you might need them! A drawstring would aso work, or you could just insert flat elastic into the casing.

The back has a yoke, also with some topstitching. The pant hems are quite deep, which I like in a wide-leg pant. It somehow makes them feel more ‘quality’ to me. In the pattern photo the pants look cropped on the model; I shortened them a couple of inches and they’re still full length on my 158cm height!

The fabric is a textured cotton that I bought online from Super Cheap Fabrics. It’s a medium weight, so perfect for this pattern. The woven texture looks slightly different on each side, a bit like it does with a jacquard, which I took advantage of by using one side for the body of the jacket and the other side for the bands.

The bands are really a lot like external facings, as they are sewn to the wrong side of the jacket then are turned to the outside and topstitched in place. The same method is used on the sleeve hems as the jacket openings and hems. Thinking about the sleeves, I have a feeling that I shortened the sleeve pattern pieces before cutting out.

This was a relatively straightforward sew, while still needing attention to detail and especially attention to reading the instructions! There’s plenty of topstitching, and collar construction always adds a little time too. The jacket is unlined, so I took care to ensure that the overlocker thread matched the garment fabric as closely as feasible.

This outfit is a real winner for me. It’s very soft and unstructured. Mid-weight cotton gets me through spring, summer and autumn, depending on what I wear with it. And the texture is just scrumptious! The white top is the Style Arc Ethel top, by the way, blogged here.

Friday, 18 June, 2021Tuesday, 14 September, 2021 by thornberry

adult's clothing

Jalie 2918 yet again

Whenever I fancy sewing a new tee for my husband, I turn to Jalie 2918.

I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve sewn this pattern. This version is in bug printed knit from the Darn Cheap Fabrics bargain table. I bought enough to make something for myself from it as well.

The contrast neckband is in lovely smooth rib knit from stash. It’s handy to have a few different colours of rib trim tucked away – you never know what they’ll work best with! Construction all on the overlocker, with topstiching on the machine.

Thursday, 17 June, 2021Wednesday, 16 June, 2021 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Stitch Witch Patterns Tudor Blouse

I first came across the Stitch Witch Patterns Tudor blouse on Instagram late last year and immediately thought of Clare. It wasn’t the original Tudor blouse that took my fancy though – it was the front wrap hack that appealed the most.

From the pattern website: Meet the Tudor blouse – a whimsical summery piece designed for the romantic at heart! This blouse was inspired by 16th century square necklines, the drama of Tudor era fashion and modernized for the contemporary sewist! The Tudor blouse has two lengths: a cropped version, or a longer version that reaches the high hip. Pattern package includes the free Tudor blouse wrap hack. The center front of the blouse features a button closure (clasps and snaps can be used in place of buttons). The sleeves are elasticated, making the blouse a very quick sew! The pattern also has another new feature: two bust cup options! A small bust version (A-B) and a full bust version (C and up).

Size wise, the patterns goes from 0 to 26. I think that I sewed Clare size 4 or 6 – because it is the wrap version, it’s pretty flexible fit wise anyway. I bought the pattern before the update with cup options. The ‘wrap hack’ also has two options – one that has a solid back and wrap front, and the other with a solid front and wrap back.

This is super easy to sew. Elastic encased in a channel across the top of the shoulders and elastic in a channel at the sleeve hem to gather it in. The back piece is faced, and the front wrap ties are doubled. It’s very quick to make, and pretty easy to wear. So much so that it didn’t take long before I sewed it a second time.

I had a bit of fun trying to ensure that the border print didn’t mean that there would be a big circle right on each nipple when the top was tied! It’s worked out okay in the end, phew! The blue gingham seersucker that I used for the first top had proven to be a perfect fabric weight, and the voile I used for the second also worked beautifully. Both fabrics were lightweight enough that the double layers in the ties weren’t thick and unwieldy.

The neckline of this blouse pretty much aligns with Clare’s bra straps. I have added strap keepers to both these tops to eliminate the possibility of the sleeves falling off her shoulders.

This really is one of those almost instant satisfaction projects. It’s fashionable, easy to sew, and easy to wear. Clare wore both these tops quite a lot over the summer.

Wednesday, 16 June, 2021Sunday, 13 June, 2021 by thornberry

Month: June 2021