vintage patterns

adult's clothing, sewing, vintage patterns

Kwik Sew 1570

Don’t overlook those 80s patterns that are kicking around in your stash!  I recently sewed Kwik Sew 1570, with a very current result.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

As is often the case, John Kaldor’s old slogan ‘Fabric Makes Fashion’ definitely applies! I used a black and navy on white print in a very drapey polyester/spandex.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

Size wise, it was possibly the Medium. There is loads of ease! While the bottom of the front is narrow hemmed and ties in the centre, the back hemline is a double thickness self-fabric band.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

The neckline and sleeves are finished with narrow self-fabric bands. Construction was pretty much all on the overlocker; just the front hem needed the sewing machine. Note that the wrong side of the fabric might show on the ties, so make sure that you do things neatly there!

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

I’d really like to try the other version of this pattern too, with the ribbed neckband, hem band and sleeve cuffs. I wonder how much rib I have in stash?

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

This top is one that I’m likely to wear to work once we can go on-site again. It should also work really well with my work travel wardrobe – as much as I love linen clothing, I need things that don’t crush when I’m travelling for work! This will be perfect.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, vintage patterns

Vintage Simplicity 6620 jacket

Isn’t it great that everything old is new again?  I’m now at that age where I see the way that fashion cycles throughout the years.  Much of what Clare wears is reminiscent of what I wore in the 80s; much of what Stella wears reminds me of the early 90s.  This pattern dates back to the 70s – my childhood.

vintage Simplicity 6620

This jacket is Simplicity 6620, without any style or fit changes. It’s in the size that was already cut out, and once again it’s from a Junior Petite size range. I really need to set up some alerts on eBay/Etsy etc for Junior Petite patterns; they work so well for Clare!

vintage Simplicity 6620

Isn’t that jacquard fabulous! It has all the colours that Clare loves to wear. But – it’s a remnant (from The Cloth Shop). I had SO many attempts at playing pattern tetris to not only fit all the pattern pieces on the remnant, but to keep the directionality the same way for paired elements. It was a struggle – and it’s one that I lost. In the end I used a contrast scrap of cashmere for the lower back piece.

vintage Simplicity 6620

I am going to deluge you with photos of this jacket because I love it so much! It’s unlined, and the jacquard was fray prone. I overlocked edges very smartly after each seam was sewn, and took advantage of the double rows of topstitching to keep things secure.

vintage Simplicity 6620

vintage Simplicity 6620

This took a little while to sew. Lots of pieces, lots of cutting out, a few darts, lots of seams, lots of topstitching. All so worth it!

vintage Simplicity 6620

We chose to sew the topstitching and buttonholes in pink, and found some minty blue-green buttons in stash that worked nicely with the variety of pastels in the jacquard.

vintage Simplicity 6620

These 70s patterns have lots of shaping through darts and incorporation in the seamlines. Darts at places like the back neck (and you often see them at the elbow in vintage patterns) really do make a difference in fit, yet they’re so rarely used in current patterns. When I see darts in patterns I often inwardly groan, but I don’t know why! They’re not actually hard to sew, and don’t even take long! I wonder what’s happening in the recesses of my mind that makes me resist darts?

vintage Simplicity 6620

There’s enough ease in this jacket to go over Clare’s crochet jumpers. It definitely works in well with the rest of her wardrobe.

vintage Simplicity 6620

Now I should get on with sewing Clare the pink cashmere coat that has been cut out for months (the urgency vanished when lockdown started…)

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, vintage patterns

another vintage Simplicity 6616

Ah, there’s nothing like sewing something fabulous from a remnant.  This wool remnant came from The Cloth Shop.  There was just enough to sew vintage Simplicity 6616 again for Clare.

vintage Simplicity 6616 - wool

This is a Japanese wool, in a herringbone weave. There was just enough to eke out the skirt. Because it’s wool I fully lined it with a smooth cotton so that it wouldn’t stick to tights or be itchy (Clare is sensitive to wool).

vintage Simplicity 6616 - wool

I found an invisible zip in stash that matched adequately. One of the great things about invisible zips is that it doesn’t matter if they’re too long; you just cut them to size.

vintage Simplicity 6616 - wool

The pockets are lined with the same smooth cotton that I used for the rest of the skirt. I like the way that the top of the pockets forms belt loops.

vintage Simplicity 6616 - wool

I used the blind hem foot and stitch on my machine to hem the skirt.  The stitches have almost disappeared into the weave.  Gee it’s lovely to sew with wool.

vintage Simplicity 6616 - wool

This was a ‘bonus’ garment that Clare hadn’t asked for, but likes a lot! She’s wearing it here with one of the many crochet jumpers that she’s made herself this year.

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, vintage patterns

vintage Simplicity 6616 skirt

Okay, finally back to garments sewn this year! I’ll start off with another garment for Clare – and it’s a winner. This one was sewn in April.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

Every now and then I sew something for one of the girls that is just something that I feel like sewing for them. This is always a risky decision to make, and experience has taught me that there are absolutely no guarantees that the finished product will be worn. This time though it all worked out.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

This is a vintage Simplicity pattern, 6616 from the 1970s. The pattern was in stash, and I went ahead and sewed the the size that was already cut. Talk about taking a chance!

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

Those old Young Junior / Teen patterns work so well for my girls. I really wish that there was still as much variety in the pattern blocks as there once was.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

The fabric is a fine wale corduroy that has been in stash for a very long time (I think left over from a dress I sewed for Clare about ten years ago). It seems to work fairly well with her wardrobe. I lined the pockets with some printed cotton that was in the large scraps area of the cupboard.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

I didn’t have a suitable invizible zip in stash, so inserted a regular zip centrally into the back seamline. It’s really not my favourite way of inserting a zip – other methods give a superior finish, in my opinion. But it’s acceptable.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

Hooray for vintage patterns and fabric leftovers! The top she’s wearing with it is the Stitch Witch Patterns Tudor Blouse with the front wrap hack, blogged here.

sewing, teen, tween, vintage patterns

vintage Style 2191 skirt

Stella’s style has been evolving over the past year.  Last October she requested a black flared skirt with a fitted waistband and belt loops.

Vintage Style 2191 skirt

Goodness, Stella looks quite different now in comparison to these photos from ten months ago! Anyway, she says that this skirt was really the first item in her current wardrobe (now predominantly black, grey, denim, a bit of white and some very small doses of colour; very little made by me). I dived into my pattern stash and found Style 2191.  This is a pattern that often pops up at the op shop; despite it being a children’s pattern it’s mostly the waist measurement that needs to be fitted; the style ease is pretty forgiving to other body measurements.

Vintage Style 2191 skirt

I sewed view 4, the shorter flared style without a lower ruffle. The fabric is a black stretch woven from deep stash, probably from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table once upon a time. A non-stretch would have been better, but this still worked out okay. There’s a centre back seam zip. Not installed as well as it could be; I usually use invisible zips for this type of application (but this was sewn during second lockdown so I used what I had). There’s also a vintage button as a waistband closure.

Vintage Style 2191 skirt

This has been worn a bit although it’s probably longer than she’d like. Teenage skirt preferences seem rather short at the moment.

Vintage Style 2191 skirt

It’s just hemmed on the machine. Really, this isn’t my most outstanding piece of sewing, but it’s wearable. When I made it I wasn’t even sure that it would ever be worn (I was wrong).  The top she’s wearing with it was sewn for Clare ages ago.

Vintage Style 2191 skirt

adult's clothing, sewing, vintage patterns

Vintage McCalls 2699

I am all over the place with my blogging timeline at the moment!  These pants and jacket were sewn and photographed last year – I wore this outfit on Christmas day.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

Firstly, to the pattern. It’s a Lida Baday pattern, McCalls 2699, from 2000. And it’s been in my pattern stash all that time. Pity it took me twenty years to make it!

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

I have sewn a couple of other McCalls Lida Baday patterns in the past, and I think that there is still another one (or two) waiting for me to get around to sewing them.  It was so good sewing from an older pattern – those lovely 5/8 inch seam allowances, clear markings, and only a few sizes to distinguish between.  I think that I sewed size 12 for both the pants and jacket.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

So, where will I start? Maybe with the pants.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

As you can see, these are a wide-leg, elastic waisted pair of pants. They do however have some interesting features. The side seam pocket construction is a little unusual, and results in pockets that sit flat during wear and have attractive topstitched detail around the opening. There is a waist casing for elastic and a toggle – I used contrasting round elastic and a toggle that I found in stash. See, it’s handy to keep all those slightly random things for the one day when you might need them! A drawstring would aso work, or you could just insert flat elastic into the casing.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

The back has a yoke, also with some topstitching. The pant hems are quite deep, which I like in a wide-leg pant. It somehow makes them feel more ‘quality’ to me. In the pattern photo the pants look cropped on the model; I shortened them a couple of inches and they’re still full length on my 158cm height!

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

The fabric is a textured cotton that I bought online from Super Cheap Fabrics. It’s a medium weight, so perfect for this pattern. The woven texture looks slightly different on each side, a bit like it does with a jacquard, which I took advantage of by using one side for the body of the jacket and the other side for the bands.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

The bands are really a lot like external facings, as they are sewn to the wrong side of the jacket then are turned to the outside and topstitched in place. The same method is used on the sleeve hems as the jacket openings and hems. Thinking about the sleeves, I have a feeling that I shortened the sleeve pattern pieces before cutting out.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

This was a relatively straightforward sew, while still needing attention to detail and especially attention to reading the instructions! There’s plenty of topstitching, and collar construction always adds a little time too. The jacket is unlined, so I took care to ensure that the overlocker thread matched the garment fabric as closely as feasible.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

This outfit is a real winner for me. It’s very soft and unstructured.  Mid-weight cotton gets me through spring, summer and autumn, depending on what I wear with it. And the texture is just scrumptious! The white top is the Style Arc Ethel top, by the way, blogged here.

McCalls 2699 from 2000 jacket and pants

adult's clothing, sewing, vintage patterns

Vintage Style 2609 tunic

I’ve done much more patchwork and sewing room organisation over the past month than garment sewing.  Since my paid work stopped, and with restrictions still in full force and the kids schooling from home, I’ve had relatively uninterrupted time to just get things done.  I’ve been able to start tasks and just keep on going!  This means that many of those ‘one day I will do that’ tasks are now either done or are well under way.  It’s quite a satisfying feeling, especially as there haven’t been any time pressures related to it.  This tunic pattern, copyright 1979, was also a slow sew.

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

I’ve had this pattern for a little while, but knew that it required careful fabric selection. There’s so much fabric in it! So many gathers! Fortunately I picked up a very soft and lightweight fabric from Restash that I thought would be perfect – and it was. An added bonus was having exactly the right amount!

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

This pattern is ‘one size fits all’ – and it probably would fit many. The hemline has a drawstring in it, so it’s quite adjustable.

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

There are many, many gathers. Gathers at the front yoke, gathers at the back yoke, elastic gathering the fabric in at the wrists, hemline gathering in at the drawstring. Goodness!

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

You can see how much the weight of all that fabric pulls the yoke and collar backward on me. The yoke seam is actually straight! The fabric is quite lightweight; it’s just that there is so much of it.

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

The little combined collar and stand is actually quite sweet. I didn’t add a button and loop to do it right up at the neck as I knew that I would only wear it open. I hand-sewed the collar facing to the inside of the tunic.

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

This fabric was actually very shifty. Spreading the sewing across days made it more bearable – I’d just do one component a day, then put it away and do something else. Not a relaxing sew – and vastly different to sewing quilting cotton shapes together! But I was in no rush.

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

I have the drawstring tightened quite high above my hips in these photos – if it was undone the tunic hem would be just above my knees; almost dress length! I’m pleased that I’ve finally sewn up this pattern, despite the challenges of working with the fabric. It’s actually a perfect fabric/pattern pairing. Now let’s see how much I wear it once the weather warms up a little!

Vintage Style 2609 from 1979 in lightweight rayon

sewing, teen, vintage patterns

Vintage Simplicity 9459

It’s a little bit funny to be blogging garments that were sewn and photographed many, many months ago!  We all have different hair lengths now.  I have a feeling that I may have actually sewn this last December, somewhere between Christmas and New Year.

Vintage Simplicity 9459

I have a few lovely sewing friends who pass on ‘junior’ and ‘teen’ size patterns to me, with my daughters in mind, and I’m really grateful that they think of us. We were very happy to receive vintage Simplicity 9459.

Vintage Simplicity 9459

There used to be quite a number of patterns in size ranges other than girl’s, misses’ and women’s. Personally, I yearn for the day that half-size patterns reappear on the market. Junior and teen patterns are often just the ticket for my eldest. That said, she’s not a ‘standard’ or straight size. Like most of us, getting clothes to fit her well requires careful measuring and often some adjustment. I often spend just as long on fitting my slim daughters as I do on fitting my chubby self. The need for pattern alterations isn’t restricted to any particular size.

Vintage Simplicity 9459

In this dress, the hardest part to fit was the bodice. It really could have done with a SBA; the bust darts as designed were too deep, and took a bit of fiddling with to get sitting nicely. They still provide a pointier boob shape than Clare would prefer. The bodice is fully self-lined, which provides a lovely finish.  Both the bodice and the lining are cut on the bias, which was an interesting pattern design.

Vintage Simplicity 9459

Getting adequate bodice fit and strap length right is really important in this dresss, as that’s what keeps it on! The back is very open, and closes with only two buttons at the waistline. Definitely a dress that she’ll be wearing bike shorts under to avoid potential wardrobe malfunctions!

Vintage Simplicity 9459

We took quite a bit of time getting the length of the straps just right. And I can’t resist showing you my four-step buttonhole prowess – I’ve been doing buttonholes on this machine for thirty years now, and they’re usually completed to an adequate standard, but this one was pretty much perfect!

Vintage Simplicity 9459

The fabric is a beautiful quality cotton from a quilting range – I think it might be Anna Maria Horner? I also think that it came to me from another generous sewing friend. That almost makes this a blogging community dress! It was delightful to sew with. I chose to topstitch the bodice lining in place from the right side with the same apricot thread that I used for the buttonholes and the hem.

Vintage Simplicity 9459

This is a really cute and fresh little frock. I’ll be interested to see how much she reaches for it this summer.

Vintage Simplicity 9459

children's clothing, kids clothing, tween, vintage patterns

Vintage Butterick 6974

Have you tried to find a summer dressing gown in the shops that is the right size for a tween?  Believe me, it’s difficult!  Fortunately there are a plethora of patterns around.

Vintage Butterick 6974 in vintage fabric

Stella had been asking me for a summer dressing gown for ages, and I really don’t know why it took me so long to provide her with one. I had both the fabric and the pattern in stash!

Vintage Butterick 6974 in vintage fabric

The pattern is a vintage one, Butterick 6974. There are plenty of similar patterns around. This one is in children’s sizes 12-14, just what I needed for Stella.

Vintage Butterick 6974 in vintage fabric

Stella is very sensitive to the feel of fabrics. This one was perfect for her – soft and slippery. It’s also vintage; I’ve no idea of actual age but I suspect 1980s. The colour is actually much more peach and apricot than the pinks that show up in these photos.

Vintage Butterick 6974 in vintage fabric

It’s pretty much your standard dressing gown, with a band to finish the front edges, patch pockets and a tie. I did add loops at the side seams to thread the belt through to keep it secured at her waist. I also have a feeling that I shortened the sleeves considerably.  I topstitched the front band in place rather than sewing it by hand.

Vintage Butterick 6974 in vintage fabric

Dressing gowns get plenty of use in our house; they really are worth sewing! Writing this reminds me that I have a whole lot of silk waiting to become summer pyjamas and dressing gowns for me. It’s lovely to have night/lounge wear that feels good to wear.

Vintage Butterick 6974 in vintage fabric

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, vintage patterns

Vintage Style 4728 shorts

Clare and I had fun trawling through my stash of old patterns late last year in search of skirt patterns.  She’s a mix of sizes, but for skirts will generally fit into a women’s 6 or 8.  She was looking for fuller skirts, that ended above the knee. Then we spotted this one:

Vintage Style 4728 shorts in double gauze from Clear It

This pattern is from 1986, and I do think that the cover art is a perfect example of the fashions of its time. The pattern description is as follows. Misses’ Skirt, Trousers, Culottes and Shorts: Flared skirt, slightly tapered trousers, culottes and shorts are gathered front and back onto waistband with side-front pockets which form buttoned opening.

Vintage Style 4728 shorts in double gauze from Clear It

So as you can see, we decided on the shorts! The fabric is double gauze from Clear It, left over from an earlier project.

Vintage Style 4728 shorts in double gauze from Clear It

I do rather enjoy working with printed patterns from this era. I learned to sew using them, and they really do give me pleasure. They are SO familiar to me! We cut straight size 8 for Clare. The pockets tuck into the side seams but form part of the opening at the front.

Vintage Style 4728 shorts in double gauze from Clear It

The buttons are also vintage, from stash, and are the only closure. You can see the slanted front pocket edge in the photo. Because of this opening method, the pockets aren’t actually as deep or as secure as you might think. The teen does keep on putting her mobile phone into the leg opening rather than into the pocket!

Vintage Style 4728 shorts in double gauze from Clear It

The gathers at the front and back provide lovely fullness to these shorts, and they really do work in the same place as an equivalent skirt. Clare tie-dyed the tee with a friend as some school holiday fun. She also dyed her hair!

Holiday hair - Clare

Clare’s hair is waist length, so she needed a friend to help her to get the ombre pink to purple effect! They’re just temporary colours that wash out after around 8 washes (Schwarzkopf Live Colour range; we get them from Priceline) and it’s become a bit of a school holiday tradition to have ‘holiday hair’. If it’s done right at the beginning of the holidays it is all gone by the time that school goes back – Clare’s school is quite strict about ‘unnatural colours’ in hair.

Holiday hair - Stella

Of course, Stella wanted to be in on the action as well. Her choice was ombre blue ends! They really do enjoy this bit of holiday fun. I’ve still got a few of last year’s projects to get up on the blog, so will try to get that done over the next few days. I’m between jobs at the moment, and as you can see we haven’t gone away on a ‘big’ holiday this summer. We’re all enjoying the time at home, pottering away and getting lots of things done that we never usually have the time for. Yes, there is lots of organising and sorting and tidying up and throwing out going on! As well as reading, watching movies and Netflix, and from me, sewing.

Vintage Style 4728 shorts in double gauze from Clear It

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