One of the recent freebie of the month patterns from Style Arc was the Lena Shift Dress.  I’ve already forgotten what pattern I bought to get this one as a freebie; the Lena jumped ahead of it in priority!

The stunning fabric was a gift from a friend, and I’ve been waiting for the perfect pattern to go with it for some time. It’s a textured mid weight fabric and wasn’t particularly wide. Because it’s a directional print it took me a while to find just the right garment to make from it – this is definitely it.

Although the pattern has a seamline down the centre back (which is very useful for any shaping alterations you might want to do) it could easily be cut on the fold. I shortened the pattern around 3 inches at the shorten/lengthen line because of fabric restrictions, but as it turns out that was pretty much the perfect amount of length to take out to suit my 158cm height. I did do a forward shoulder alteration of around 1cm, and considered doing a rounded upper back alteration (hello dowager’s hump) but decided that in this style it wouldn’t matter all that much.  I sewed size 12.

From the Style Arc website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Tent shape, Calf length, Boat neck, Sleeveless, Large inseam pockets, Hem facing. FABRIC SUGGESTION Linen, cotton, crepe.

This is pretty much the same style that I’ve seen in the Uniqlo/Marimekko offering, right down to the curved pockets. However, this has the advantage of being sewn by me to fit my body, in the fabric of my choice. Thank goodness for home sewing patterns. I used a contrasting linen for the hem facing and the all-in-one neck and armhole facing. I followed Style Arc’s instructions for attaching the facing to the dress and it worked beautifully.

Although this is a sleeveless dress, the armholes are not at all cut away or too deep. This leads to excellent bra coverage.

My bras are fairly substantial (I got fitted again recently and discovered that extra kilos and perimenopausal changes have bumped my cup sizes up two larger than I had been wearing) yet this dress doesn’t expose them at all. Unlike the youth of today (that’s such a middle-aged person’s phrase) I prefer my underwear to be covered.

The pockets are great. Once again, I followed the Style Arc instructions and was left with a very pleasing result. The pocket bags are stitched to the front of the dress, which eliminates any issues with them flapping around, and the double row of stitching looks good! It mirrors the double row of stitching that secures the hem facing.

I really enjoyed sewing this dress (it was finished over a month ago) and now that the weather has become more consistently summer I am sure that I’ll enjoy wearing it.

The Style Arc Naomi woven dress was a new release this month – and I’ve already sewn it!

One of the reasons why I was a sucker for this dress was because of the raised waistline. I’ve seen two versions modelled by the gorgeous pregnant Monica, and although I’m pretty much too old to be pregnant at 53, I have always had a belly that looks pregnant. So I knew that the dress would work on my shape!

The waistline is curved upwards at both the front at back, although it’s not as obvious at the back. I need someone to loosen the back drawstring a bit so that it sits better. Where were the teenagers when I got dresssed this morning (oh that’s right, still asleep)? The casing is formed from a wide seam allowance joining the bodice to the skirt; this is then pressed upward and stitched to the bodice, and drawstrings threaded through from openings in the bodice side seam.

The wide neckline facing adds detail and structure. I did a 1cm forward shoulder alteration before cutting out. I also removed 2 inches of length from the skirt at the shorten/lengthen line. I sewed size 12.

Although I chose to sew this dress in black (I know, not my usual colour) I figured that the lightweight cotton with white flocks would lighten the overall effect, especially with the side splits and the sleeves pushed up a bit. And yes, I included the side seam pockets. I have no memory of where I bought the fabric, other than it’s been in stash for a while and I suspect either Spotlight or Darn Cheap Fabrics.

From the Style Arc website: Slip on dress. Easy fit. Angled waist seam. Draw string waist with an opening at each side seam. “V” neck with top stitching. Side splits on skirt. 7/8th length sleeves with elastic opening. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Rayon, crepe, silk.

It’s a warm day here in Melbourne and this dress has been really nice to wear. I even sewed a matching mask. The necklace was bought in Borneo in January 2021, and the shoes are Django and Juliette.

Today is our first day out of lockdown. Melbourne has had a total of 263 days in lockdown since the pandemic began (which is the dubious honour of the highest number of days anywhere in the world – and of course, some people here have been locked down for even longer than that depending on quarantine etc). When we’ve exited previous lockdowns, it’s been because we’ve been able to get daily case numbers down to zero. This time, daily case numbers in Melbourne are over 2000.  What’s changed between then and now is that this time we have vaccines, with over 70% of the 16+ Victorian population already fully vaccinated and the numbers rapidly increasing (including the 12 to 15 year old age group who have been super keen to get vaccinated). We hope that in another month or so we’ll have 80% of the 12+ population fully vaccinated, and it looks like those numbers will get to well over 90%. By locking down when we did we’ve saved thousands and thousands of lives and bought some time until vaccines became readily available. To give some context for my overseas blog readers, the Australian population is just under 26 million. Across Australia since the pandemic began, there have been 154,490 total cases so far, and 1613 deaths. At the moment there are states with no virus; it’s New South Wales, the Australian Commonwealth Territory, and Victoria (where I am) where Delta has taken hold. However, borders are in the process of opening up, restrictions are easing, and many freedoms returning for those who are fully vaccinated. It’s a time of huge change here as Australians move into a new stage of the pandemic and get used to ‘living with covid’. Fingers crossed that our health system will be able to cope now that vaccines are reducing the potential impact of the disease.

Two knit dress successes in a row!  Hooray!

This one is really thanks to Anna, both in terms of the fabric and the choice of pattern! The fabric is a gorgeous digitally printed cotton/spandex from The Cloth Shop. At the time of typing it’s still available. I love the mix of colours and the abstract design.

The pattern is the Style Arc Richie knit tunic dress. From their website: Perfect wardrobe basic to wear by itself or use as a layering piece. Featuring an easy fit with a flattering “V” neck band and extended shoulder line which is finished with a sleeve band. The high low hem line and patch pocket completes this style. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Jersey, unbrushed fleecy or any knit fabric.

I sewed size 12, and shortened the pattern an inch at about waist level before cutting out. Getting a crisp V neckband is important with this dress. For the fabric I was using, with 10% spandex content, the neckband pattern piece was the right length and worked perfectly, especially in conjunction with plenty of steam iron pressing and topstitching of the seam allowances. Always remember though that knits all behave differently; you may need to shorten the length of the neckband depending on the amount of stretch and recovery in your knit. I suggest that you baste before stitching! In this case the neckband seam is at the centre front where it shapes the V, and that’s where you’d need to take length out of it if necessary (such as if you’re using a rib knit). But honestly, I had no issues at all with the neckband using the pattern as drafted; the sleeve cuffs were also a good fit.

I used double sided fusible tape to secure the hemline before stitching it in place – I get mine here. I love these tapes when working with knits; they really stabilise things and stop topstitching from stretching them out of shape. And once they are secured, no pins needed! I often use the narrowest width to assist in pocket placement too.

I am sure that I will reach for this dress on a regular basis once the weather warms up! It’s a definite winner. Worn here with shoes from Django & Juliette and tassel earrings from Love Astrid.

Zara released a number of shoulder pad tops into their stores about a year ago, not that I realised that at the time!  A few months later tutorials were popping up on YouTube and similar websites for how to make your own, and pdf patterns weren’t far behind. I first came across the shoulder pad tees when browsing in stores during that brief period at the start of the year when life seemed almost normal for a while. There were plenty on the sale rack – maybe they were ahead of their time here in Australia? At that stage I didn’t consider making one, maybe due to overexposure to shoulder pads during my teens and early 20s. A few months later, here I am in a dress version.

This is the Style Arc Kirby dress and top. Although I’d looked at the pattern a couple of times since it’s release, it took this styling suggestion that popped up on Instagram to make me buy it and sew it up.

I haven’t sewn up the jacket for myself yet (I sewed it for Clare some years ago), but love the combination and I do have some fabric in mind for it.

From the Style Arc website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Square shoulders with shoulder pads, Straight shaped dress and top, 3 lengths in the one pattern, Long dress just above the ankle with side split, Knee length dress with small side split, Hip length top, Crew neck band. FABRIC SUGGESTION: knit jersey. TRIMS: One pair of soft wadding shoulder pads, approximately 6 mm / 1/4″ thickness.

The key to this pattern working successfully is choosing fabric with good drape. I used a printed viscose/spandex knit from The Cloth Shop, and bought the shoulder pads from there as well. I did need to trim them down a little, which was straightforward.

If you don’t have access to shoulder pads, but you do have some quilt batting in your stash, you can make your own shoulder pads. There are plenty of patterns and tutorials online for how to do this – you could try this one from Threads magazine, or this one from Closet Core patterns, and there are a multitude of YouTube tutorials. Obviously, shoulder pads are the key to this pattern!

I sewed size 12, and shortened the pattern two inches in total by taking an inch out at waist level and another inch above the side splits. I was also generous when cutting out the waist section of the pattern, so possibly added another centimetre to the waist circumference. I used double sided fusible tapes to secure the seam allowances of the side splits and the hemline before stitching them in place.

This dress is a definite success for me! I look forward to wearing it when the weather warms up. I may even make a top version – and may even consider tucking it in to pants! I noticed that the Claudia Tank from Just Patterns and the Isosceles from Pattern Scissors Cloth are extremely similar and were released at about the same time. I’ve also just been alterted to the Eight Tee by Made It Patterns – another of that ilk! This is a style that will definitely scream 2020/2021 at some stage, but in the meantime I’ll make the most of those shoulder pads and the confident vibe that they give me.

This is one of those patterns where I didn’t get all the fuss until I sewed it myself.  Now I do.

The High Cuff Sweater is a pattern from The Assembly Line. It’s the first one of their patterns that I have sewn. It was well drafted, and the instructions were extremely clear. The size range is relatively limited – from XS extra small (80cm chest) to L large (104cm chest). I chose to sew size M medium, even though I measured more like the L.

The pattern is described as follows: The High Cuff Sweater is inspired by the traditional sweatshirt and features rib cuffs at the neck, sleeves, and bottom. The shaped bottom cuff is higher at back, which gives it a feminine silhouette. Suggested fabrics are light to mid-weight woven fabrics such as denim, cotton twill, lightweight canvas; tricot works well too. Cotton/elastane rib fabric for cuffs and bands.

What makes this simple pattern such a good one is the combination of a woven fabric for the body and sleeves, with a knitted rib for the neckband, sleeve cuffs and waist bands/cuffs. Although the back band is curved upwards, you can’t see that in these photos. But it does help the top to sit really nicely when it is being worn. No tugging or adjusting needed; it just stays where it should.

I took advice from Anna and did the same 1cm forward shoulder alteration, 2cm neckband lengthening, and 4cm sleeve shortening that she did. This top has bust darts, which were fortunately in the right place for me! It’s very simple to construct. I used both the sewing machine and the overlocker. The fabric is from my stash; it was already patchworked together like that, and is a combination of lightweight denims. Here’s a closer photo of the front and the back if you are inclined to create something similar yourself! The colourway is more accurate in this photo too.

I did topstitching along the shoulder seams and around the neckband in the same pale blue that the fabric manufacturers had used in their topstitching. There’s not really much more to say about this simple top, other than I’ll definitely use this pattern again. It doesn’t need a great deal of fabric for the body, and you could really go to town with contrasting rib. I had never thought that a woven windcheater style top would be handy in my wardrobe – but it is!

Worn here with rigid denim Tessuti Demi pants and Top End shoes.

When I first saw the Style Arc Selina top I thought ‘nah, too frilly for me’.  But I bought it anyway!

I sewed it up in very lightweight and soft seersucker from Super Cheap Fabrics. It wasn’t on their website for long, and I haven’t seen it (or anything similar) since.  Close up it is a green and light cream gingham, but those checks are teensy so it reads more like a textured sage.

I sewed size 12, and if I remember correctly I did a high rounded upper back alteration by adding to the centre bottom of the yoke (not to the neckline) and curving it back up to nothing at the armhole seam. I also cut the back yoke twice so that I could use the burrito method to self-line it and provide a little more structure across the shoulders and upper back.

This is a roomy top, as you can see from the line diagrams. No bust darts needed for fit, and fairly wide shoulders. From the website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: A line top, Sits at the hip, Hem frills, Sleeve frills, Faced neckline, Gathers falling from back yoke, Slight hi-low hemline, Easy fit. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Rayon, crepe, silk, washed linen.

Because of the softness and semi-sheerness of the fabric I decided not to use the suggested facings to finish the neckline. Instead I cut some bias binding from leftover fabric, and applied it so that it showed on the outside.

Construction was mostly on the sewing machine, with the overlocker used to finish edges. I narrow hemmed the ruffle edges by turning it twice and stitching it on the machine. If I was using a crisper or slightly heavier fabric I would probably overlock the edge then turn it once to hem it in order to reduce bulk. It would be easy for the ruffles to be very ‘sticky-outy’ in a different fabric. I also made sure to iron the ruffle seam allowance flat once it had been joined to the body of the garment, but decided not to topstitch the seam allowance to the body of the garment as I often would.

This was an extremely unseasonal sew, so it’s waiting for the weather to warm up enough to actually wear. I think it will work well with my white linen pants. It would be easy to make this without the ruffles if they’re not your thing.

Worn here with Elk necklace, Style Arc Fifi pants, Django & Juliette sandals.