Month: October 2021

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

The Style Arc Naomi woven dress was a new release this month – and I’ve already sewn it!

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

One of the reasons why I was a sucker for this dress was because of the raised waistline. I’ve seen two versions modelled by the gorgeous pregnant Monica, and although I’m pretty much too old to be pregnant at 53, I have always had a belly that looks pregnant. So I knew that the dress would work on my shape!

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

The waistline is curved upwards at both the front at back, although it’s not as obvious at the back. I need someone to loosen the back drawstring a bit so that it sits better. Where were the teenagers when I got dresssed this morning (oh that’s right, still asleep)? The casing is formed from a wide seam allowance joining the bodice to the skirt; this is then pressed upward and stitched to the bodice, and drawstrings threaded through from openings in the bodice side seam.

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

The wide neckline facing adds detail and structure. I did a 1cm forward shoulder alteration before cutting out. I also removed 2 inches of length from the skirt at the shorten/lengthen line. I sewed size 12.

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

Although I chose to sew this dress in black (I know, not my usual colour) I figured that the lightweight cotton with white flocks would lighten the overall effect, especially with the side splits and the sleeves pushed up a bit. And yes, I included the side seam pockets. I have no memory of where I bought the fabric, other than it’s been in stash for a while and I suspect either Spotlight or Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

From the Style Arc website: Slip on dress. Easy fit. Angled waist seam. Draw string waist with an opening at each side seam. “V” neck with top stitching. Side splits on skirt. 7/8th length sleeves with elastic opening. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Rayon, crepe, silk.

It’s a warm day here in Melbourne and this dress has been really nice to wear. I even sewed a matching mask. The necklace was bought in Borneo in January 2021, and the shoes are Django and Juliette.

Style Arc Naomi woven dress

Today is our first day out of lockdown. Melbourne has had a total of 263 days in lockdown since the pandemic began (which is the dubious honour of the highest number of days anywhere in the world – and of course, some people here have been locked down for even longer than that depending on quarantine etc). When we’ve exited previous lockdowns, it’s been because we’ve been able to get daily case numbers down to zero. This time, daily case numbers in Melbourne are over 2000.  What’s changed between then and now is that this time we have vaccines, with over 70% of the 16+ Victorian population already fully vaccinated and the numbers rapidly increasing (including the 12 to 15 year old age group who have been super keen to get vaccinated). We hope that in another month or so we’ll have 80% of the 12+ population fully vaccinated, and it looks like those numbers will get to well over 90%. By locking down when we did we’ve saved thousands and thousands of lives and bought some time until vaccines became readily available. To give some context for my overseas blog readers, the Australian population is just under 26 million. Across Australia since the pandemic began, there have been 154,490 total cases so far, and 1613 deaths. At the moment there are states with no virus; it’s New South Wales, the Australian Commonwealth Territory, and Victoria (where I am) where Delta has taken hold. However, borders are in the process of opening up, restrictions are easing, and many freedoms returning for those who are fully vaccinated. It’s a time of huge change here as Australians move into a new stage of the pandemic and get used to ‘living with covid’. Fingers crossed that our health system will be able to cope now that vaccines are reducing the potential impact of the disease.

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Remy Raglan Top (with gathered sleeve expansion)

Once upon a time I would wrack my brain to come up with creative, slightly entertaining blog post titles.  Well, that was a long, long time ago.  As I typed this one, I thought ‘how boring’.  But hey, sometimes boring is best. So here it is, the Remy Raglan Top (with gathered sleeve expansion).

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

I have sewn this pattern once before, in the 3/4 sleeve version. There is also a short sleeve option. Recently the designer added a free expansion pattern for a sleeve that gathers into a cuff. Nice!

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

It’s not a tight cuff, and finishes at around a 7/8 length. I sewed the top in straight size 12, without any alteration.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

From the Sew House Seven website: The Remy Raglan is a simple top that is quick to make and easy to wear with a relaxed fit. This top was designed to have the sleeves rolled up and it should be noted the sleeves look best that way. The fit is very loose and relaxed at the bust and waist and while it is not a cropped top, it is a short top designed to be worn with high waist pants and skirts. The original design is version #1, plain and simple, however, version #2 offers a little visual interest to the front with a split center and keyhole button closure. There are two sleeve options – short sleeve and 3/4- length sleeves and both work with either versions #1 or #2. This top was originally designed for very light weight linen. While it can work in a variety of light weight woven fabrics, this top is the perfect, simple backdrop to let a beautiful linen shine. If you choose a more rigid fabric such as cotton lawn, the neck may appear a little smaller and the bottom hem will be a bit fuller and not drape as closely to the body. Also be aware that one-sided printed fabrics will not look good once the sleeves are rolled up. Be sure that the front and back sides of your fabric are presentable. Both Standard sizes 00-20 and Curvy Fit sizes 18-34 are included with your purchase.

And for the gathered sleeve expansion: Who can resist a romantic gathered sleeve? We were so taken by this style that we decided to give you one more reason to love your Remy Raglan pattern. This Gathered Sleeve expansion pattern can be easily substituted for the short sleeve or 3/4 length sleeve in your Remy Raglan pattern. The expansion includes GATHERED SLEEVE (8), SLEEVE CUFF (9) and instructions for both Standard sizes 00 – 20 and Curvy sizes 14 – 34.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

I chose to sew the split front option, and found a perfect vintage button in my stash for the closure. The entire top is french seamed. I finished the hem with bias binding made from the same fabric. And of course, I sewed up a matching face mask (based on the Aplat mask) from some of the scraps. Speaking of fabric, I used a cotton/linen lightweight digitally printed woven that I bought through the Chat 10, Looks 3 page earlier in the year. It was very nice to sew and has worn beautifully in the spring warmth today.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

I thought I’d better get with the times and try out a half-tuck, but the teens still think that this top works better on me left loose. It certainly feels more like me that way! This is a much ‘prettier’ print and colourway than I often wear, and I rather like it. I also anticipate using this pattern again.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

Worn here with Style Arc Lola pants in linen, Django & Juliette sandals, and leather earrings made by me.

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Richie knit tunic dress

Two knit dress successes in a row!  Hooray!

Style Arc Richie tunic dress in knit from The Cloth Shop

This one is really thanks to Anna, both in terms of the fabric and the choice of pattern! The fabric is a gorgeous digitally printed cotton/spandex from The Cloth Shop. At the time of typing it’s still available. I love the mix of colours and the abstract design.

Style Arc Richie tunic dress in knit from The Cloth Shop

The pattern is the Style Arc Richie knit tunic dress. From their website: Perfect wardrobe basic to wear by itself or use as a layering piece. Featuring an easy fit with a flattering “V” neck band and extended shoulder line which is finished with a sleeve band. The high low hem line and patch pocket completes this style. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Jersey, unbrushed fleecy or any knit fabric.

I sewed size 12, and shortened the pattern an inch at about waist level before cutting out. Getting a crisp V neckband is important with this dress. For the fabric I was using, with 10% spandex content, the neckband pattern piece was the right length and worked perfectly, especially in conjunction with plenty of steam iron pressing and topstitching of the seam allowances. Always remember though that knits all behave differently; you may need to shorten the length of the neckband depending on the amount of stretch and recovery in your knit. I suggest that you baste before stitching! In this case the neckband seam is at the centre front where it shapes the V, and that’s where you’d need to take length out of it if necessary (such as if you’re using a rib knit). But honestly, I had no issues at all with the neckband using the pattern as drafted; the sleeve cuffs were also a good fit.

Style Arc Richie tunic dress in knit from The Cloth Shop

I used double sided fusible tape to secure the hemline before stitching it in place – I get mine here. I love these tapes when working with knits; they really stabilise things and stop topstitching from stretching them out of shape. And once they are secured, no pins needed! I often use the narrowest width to assist in pocket placement too.

Style Arc Richie tunic dress in knit from The Cloth Shop

I am sure that I will reach for this dress on a regular basis once the weather warms up! It’s a definite winner. Worn here with shoes from Django & Juliette and tassel earrings from Love Astrid.

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Kirby dress

Zara released a number of shoulder pad tops into their stores about a year ago, not that I realised that at the time!  A few months later tutorials were popping up on YouTube and similar websites for how to make your own, and pdf patterns weren’t far behind. I first came across the shoulder pad tees when browsing in stores during that brief period at the start of the year when life seemed almost normal for a while. There were plenty on the sale rack – maybe they were ahead of their time here in Australia? At that stage I didn’t consider making one, maybe due to overexposure to shoulder pads during my teens and early 20s. A few months later, here I am in a dress version.

Style Arc Kirby dress in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

This is the Style Arc Kirby dress and top. Although I’d looked at the pattern a couple of times since it’s release, it took this styling suggestion that popped up on Instagram to make me buy it and sew it up.

Style Arc Kirby pattern

I haven’t sewn up the jacket for myself yet (I sewed it for Clare some years ago), but love the combination and I do have some fabric in mind for it.

Style Arc Kirby dress in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

From the Style Arc website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Square shoulders with shoulder pads, Straight shaped dress and top, 3 lengths in the one pattern, Long dress just above the ankle with side split, Knee length dress with small side split, Hip length top, Crew neck band. FABRIC SUGGESTION: knit jersey. TRIMS: One pair of soft wadding shoulder pads, approximately 6 mm / 1/4″ thickness.

The key to this pattern working successfully is choosing fabric with good drape. I used a printed viscose/spandex knit from The Cloth Shop, and bought the shoulder pads from there as well. I did need to trim them down a little, which was straightforward.

Style Arc Kirby dress in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

If you don’t have access to shoulder pads, but you do have some quilt batting in your stash, you can make your own shoulder pads. There are plenty of patterns and tutorials online for how to do this – you could try this one from Threads magazine, or this one from Closet Core patterns, and there are a multitude of YouTube tutorials. Obviously, shoulder pads are the key to this pattern!

Style Arc Kirby dress in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

I sewed size 12, and shortened the pattern two inches in total by taking an inch out at waist level and another inch above the side splits. I was also generous when cutting out the waist section of the pattern, so possibly added another centimetre to the waist circumference. I used double sided fusible tapes to secure the seam allowances of the side splits and the hemline before stitching them in place.

Style Arc Kirby dress in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

This dress is a definite success for me! I look forward to wearing it when the weather warms up. I may even make a top version – and may even consider tucking it in to pants! I noticed that the Claudia Tank from Just Patterns and the Isosceles from Pattern Scissors Cloth are extremely similar and were released at about the same time. I’ve also just been alterted to the Eight Tee by Made It Patterns – another of that ilk! This is a style that will definitely scream 2020/2021 at some stage, but in the meantime I’ll make the most of those shoulder pads and the confident vibe that they give me.

Style Arc Kirby dress in viscose knit from The Cloth Shop

adult's clothing, sewing

High Cuff Sweater

This is one of those patterns where I didn’t get all the fuss until I sewed it myself.  Now I do.

TAL High Cuff Sweater

The High Cuff Sweater is a pattern from The Assembly Line. It’s the first one of their patterns that I have sewn. It was well drafted, and the instructions were extremely clear. The size range is relatively limited – from XS extra small (80cm chest) to L large (104cm chest). I chose to sew size M medium, even though I measured more like the L.

TAL High Cuff Sweater

The pattern is described as follows: The High Cuff Sweater is inspired by the traditional sweatshirt and features rib cuffs at the neck, sleeves, and bottom. The shaped bottom cuff is higher at back, which gives it a feminine silhouette. Suggested fabrics are light to mid-weight woven fabrics such as denim, cotton twill, lightweight canvas; tricot works well too. Cotton/elastane rib fabric for cuffs and bands.

What makes this simple pattern such a good one is the combination of a woven fabric for the body and sleeves, with a knitted rib for the neckband, sleeve cuffs and waist bands/cuffs. Although the back band is curved upwards, you can’t see that in these photos. But it does help the top to sit really nicely when it is being worn. No tugging or adjusting needed; it just stays where it should.

TAL High Cuff Sweater

I took advice from Anna and did the same 1cm forward shoulder alteration, 2cm neckband lengthening, and 4cm sleeve shortening that she did. This top has bust darts, which were fortunately in the right place for me! It’s very simple to construct. I used both the sewing machine and the overlocker. The fabric is from my stash; it was already patchworked together like that, and is a combination of lightweight denims. Here’s a closer photo of the front and the back if you are inclined to create something similar yourself! The colourway is more accurate in this photo too.

TAL High Cuff Sweater

I did topstitching along the shoulder seams and around the neckband in the same pale blue that the fabric manufacturers had used in their topstitching. There’s not really much more to say about this simple top, other than I’ll definitely use this pattern again. It doesn’t need a great deal of fabric for the body, and you could really go to town with contrasting rib. I had never thought that a woven windcheater style top would be handy in my wardrobe – but it is!

TAL High Cuff Sweater

Worn here with rigid denim Tessuti Demi pants and Top End shoes.

adult's clothing, crochet

Granny Square Sweater

There are many versions of the ‘Granny Square Sweater’.  Some are composed of a multitude of squares, stitched together.  Others are like this one – two giant granny squares that are actually hexagons, each forming one half of the sweater.  The centre of the square/hexagon ends up right in the armpit!

Granny Square Sweater

This pattern is the Granny Square Sweater Adult by Tatiana Zuccala, known as isWoolish. This is the third time that I’ve attempting making a garment from this yarn. I made a poncho in 2020 and didn’t like it; it was frogged. Made a vest earlier this year and didn’t like it; it was frogged. Made half this jumper, realised that it was going to be too small; also frogged. Then I finally worked a gauge swatch, upsized my hook a couple of sizes, and went for it again. Success!

Granny Square Sweater

The yarn is Bendigo Woollen Mills Rustic 12 ply, in the colour Hermitage. It’s pure wool and is super warm! I really enjoyed working the bobbles and seeing the sweater come together. I’m not completely certain that it’s ‘me’ but we’ll see how often I reach for it. The pattern was quite easy to follow, and it would be easy to adapt into a cardigan simply by only working the centre back seam and not joining up the centre front. It’s completely reversible; the front and back are exactly the same. I’m glad that I gave the pattern a go, and am likely to try some of the others by this designer.

Granny Square Sweater