Sew House Seven

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Tabor the sixth

I feel as though this blog is currently just repeat, repeat, repeat!  Today’s garment is the sixth Tabor V-Neck that I have sewn. You can read about the first five here and here.

Tabor V-neck in sweater knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

This time around I’ve really managed the Goldilocks effect and got everything just right! The fabric type, the sizing, the print. Versions 4 and 5 of this pattern really does require you to use the recommended fabric types of sweater knit fabrics with at least 25% stretch such as sweater knits from wool jersey, novelty sweater knits and softer rib knits. Avoid knits with excellent stretch recovery (such as pontes and high lycra content fabrics- 6% and above) for use on the neckband.

Tabor V-neck in sweater knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

I had this Super Cheap Fabrics sweater knit left over from making a dress. There was just enough to cut the top out while still placing the print in a pleasing way.

Tabor V-neck in sweater knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

Fron the pattern website: The Tabor V Neck has many versions, but all feature drop shoulders and a loose fit through the body.
Version #1 has two neck options, a deep V-neck or a mitered neckband. It also features a curved hem and narrow, long sleeves.
Version #2 has two neck options, a deep V-neck or a mitered neckband. It also features a curved hem and banded, short sleeves to roll up.
Version #3 has two neck options, a deep V-neck or a mitered neckband. It also features a cropped, straight hem and is sleeveless.
Version #4 is a semi-deep V-neck with a lapped neckband. It also features a split hem with vented sides and narrow, long sleeves. It works best with sweater knits that do not have too much structure or stretch recovery.
Version #5 is a semi-deep V-neck with a lapped neckband. It also features a cropped, straight hem and is sleeveless. It works best with sweater knits that do not have too much stretch recovery.

Tabor V-neck in sweater knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

I can’t remember what size I sewed; I would need to pull out the pattern to check. Maybe later! It was probably size 12 or 14. This is a terrific basics pattern, a bit elevated with side vents. Pay attention to the fabric recommendations for it to work best!

Tabor V-neck in sweater knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing, Stokx Patterns

Longer sleeved Remy Raglan

When I need my sewing to be soothing and meditative, I turn to patterns that I’ve sewn before, in fabrics and styles that I know will work in my wardrobe because they are tried and true.  I’ve sewn three of those types of garments in the past month.  This one is the Sew House Seven Remy Raglan.

Sew House Seven Remy Raglan in SCF linen

Each time I’ve made this I’ve chosen the view with the centre front seam and opening. Not that I ever have to undo the button to get the top over my head!  I found a vintage yellow button in stash that goes nicely with the colours in the print.

Sew House Seven Remy Raglan in SCF linen

There are a few different options in this pattern. From their website: The Remy Raglan has two front options and three sleeve options, all of which are compatible with both fronts.
Version #1 is a plain front
Version #2 features a split center and keyhole button closure
Short sleeves are meant to be worn rolled up and require fabric with no obvious wrong side
3/4 length sleeve gives more sleeve length
Gathered bracelet length sleeve is new to this pattern; if you have an older copy and would like to access this sleeve it is available as a free download

I altered the straight 3/4 sleeve pattern by slashing it mid-way and adding around 2 inches in length. I also extended the cuff turn-back at the hem of the sleeve so that I could do a wider hem that I hoped would look better when the sleeves were rolled up.

Sew House Seven Remy Raglan in SCF linen

The fabric is a printed linen blend left over from when I sewed a Vali dress last year. It’s from Super Cheap Fabrics. It’s a fairly stiff fabric but is softening up more with repeated washing. I really like the colours and shapes in the print. I’m wearing my Remy Raglan with Stokx Square pants – I love these jeans! I have another pair cut out and fabric earmarked for a third pair. They’re a shape and style that are working really well for me at the moment.

Sew House Seven Remy Raglan in SCF linen

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Remy Raglan Top (with gathered sleeve expansion)

Once upon a time I would wrack my brain to come up with creative, slightly entertaining blog post titles.  Well, that was a long, long time ago.  As I typed this one, I thought ‘how boring’.  But hey, sometimes boring is best. So here it is, the Remy Raglan Top (with gathered sleeve expansion).

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

I have sewn this pattern once before, in the 3/4 sleeve version. There is also a short sleeve option. Recently the designer added a free expansion pattern for a sleeve that gathers into a cuff. Nice!

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

It’s not a tight cuff, and finishes at around a 7/8 length. I sewed the top in straight size 12, without any alteration.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

From the Sew House Seven website: The Remy Raglan is a simple top that is quick to make and easy to wear with a relaxed fit. This top was designed to have the sleeves rolled up and it should be noted the sleeves look best that way. The fit is very loose and relaxed at the bust and waist and while it is not a cropped top, it is a short top designed to be worn with high waist pants and skirts. The original design is version #1, plain and simple, however, version #2 offers a little visual interest to the front with a split center and keyhole button closure. There are two sleeve options – short sleeve and 3/4- length sleeves and both work with either versions #1 or #2. This top was originally designed for very light weight linen. While it can work in a variety of light weight woven fabrics, this top is the perfect, simple backdrop to let a beautiful linen shine. If you choose a more rigid fabric such as cotton lawn, the neck may appear a little smaller and the bottom hem will be a bit fuller and not drape as closely to the body. Also be aware that one-sided printed fabrics will not look good once the sleeves are rolled up. Be sure that the front and back sides of your fabric are presentable. Both Standard sizes 00-20 and Curvy Fit sizes 18-34 are included with your purchase.

And for the gathered sleeve expansion: Who can resist a romantic gathered sleeve? We were so taken by this style that we decided to give you one more reason to love your Remy Raglan pattern. This Gathered Sleeve expansion pattern can be easily substituted for the short sleeve or 3/4 length sleeve in your Remy Raglan pattern. The expansion includes GATHERED SLEEVE (8), SLEEVE CUFF (9) and instructions for both Standard sizes 00 – 20 and Curvy sizes 14 – 34.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

I chose to sew the split front option, and found a perfect vintage button in my stash for the closure. The entire top is french seamed. I finished the hem with bias binding made from the same fabric. And of course, I sewed up a matching face mask (based on the Aplat mask) from some of the scraps. Speaking of fabric, I used a cotton/linen lightweight digitally printed woven that I bought through the Chat 10, Looks 3 page earlier in the year. It was very nice to sew and has worn beautifully in the spring warmth today.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

I thought I’d better get with the times and try out a half-tuck, but the teens still think that this top works better on me left loose. It certainly feels more like me that way! This is a much ‘prettier’ print and colourway than I often wear, and I rather like it. I also anticipate using this pattern again.

Sew House Seven Remy raglan with gathered sleeve extension in Chatters fabric

Worn here with Style Arc Lola pants in linen, Django & Juliette sandals, and leather earrings made by me.

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Sew House Seven Elemental Pencil Skirt

The garment that is least represented in my wardrobe is the skirt.  I have plenty of dresses and pinafores, but comparatively few skirts.  Still figuring out why I don’t tend to reach for them as often as I wear other types of clothes.

Sew House Seven elemental pencil skirt

Anyway, the skirts that I do have essentially fall into two types. Long, loose skirts for summer, and straight skirts for winter. There are loads of free patterns and tutorials available for stretch pencil skirts – just do a quick google and see what appears! This one is the Elemental Pencil Skirt, by Sew House Seven.

Sew House Seven elemental pencil skirt

From the pattern website: A slim, high waist pencil skirt with a hidden elastic waistband designed for knit fabrics with at least 50% horizontal stretch. This is a beginner level pattern. Standard Sizes 00 – 20 & Curvy Sizes 18 – 34. Options & Features: Hidden elasticized waistband, body skimming with a narrow hem, Two hem length options – below the knee or midi length.

Sew House Seven elemental pencil skirt

I graded the waist up two sizes from the hips in accordance with my measurements, and sewed the shorted of the two length options (I am 158cm tall). The fabric is a jacquard double knit left over from a coat that I sewed a couple of years ago. The waist elastic application worked nicely; my curiousity to see what it was is why I tried out this pattern.

Sew House Seven elemental pencil skirt

Straight stretch skirts like this one are comfortable to wear and often a great way to utilise fabric remnants. I might even give it a try in a cotton/spandex for spring/summer, or even french terry.  Worn here with knit top from Isle of Mine, Django and Juliette boots, and stunning shawl knitted by Mum.

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Remy Raglan

Today I have a pattern that I haven’t sewn before!  And it’s a newly released one.

Sew House 7 Remy Raglan in foiled linen

This is the Sew House 7 Remy Raglan. From their website:  The Remy Raglan is a simple top that is quick to make and easy to wear with a relaxed fit. This top was originally designed to wear under the Burnside Bibs and with the Free Range Slacks during their respective photoshoots. Many customers inquired about the top and so it became the Remy Raglan pattern. This top was designed to have the sleeves rolled up and it should be noted the sleeves look best that way. The fit is very loose and relaxed at the bust and waist and while it is not a cropped top, it is a short top designed to be worn with high waist pants and skirts. The original design is version #1, plain and simple, however, version #2 offers a little visual interest to the front with a split center and keyhole button closure. There are two sleeve options – short sleeve and 3/4- length sleeves and both work with either versions #1 or #2. This top was originally designed for very light weight linen. While it can work in a variety of light weight woven fabrics, this top is the perfect, simple backdrop to let a beautiful linen shine. If you choose a more rigid fabric such as cotton lawn, the neck may appear a little smaller and the bottom hem will be a bit fuller and not drape as closely to the body. Also be aware that one-sided printed fabrics will not look good once the sleeves are rolled up. Be sure that the front and back sides of your fabric are presentable. Remy Raglan line drawing I have plenty of linen leftovers in my stash, and thought that this would be the perfect pattern for me to use to do some colour blocking. That said, I used one fabric for my ‘wearable muslin’! I’ve had this gold foiled navy linen in stash for ages; I could never figure out just what it should become.

Sew House 7 Remy Raglan in foiled linen

I chose to sew size 12, with a forward shoulder alteration. I now realise that a high rounded back/forward head alteration would probably have been fine, but this has still worked okay! I sewed it with french seams throughout (good grief).  The pattern comes in a size range from 00 to 36.

Sew House 7 Remy Raglan in foiled linen

I had a vintage button in stash that works really nicely at the neckline. I don’t have to undo the button to get this on and off; it just slips over my head. If I was sewing this again I would lengthen the 3/4 sleeve a little more and reshape the lower sleeve to be a bit wider for an easier roll up. Although the pattern has designed to be worn with the sleeves rolled up, the longer sleeve still tapers a bit toward the sleeve hem. This makes rolling up a little more difficult!

Sew House 7 Remy Raglan in foiled linen

I can tell that this pattern will get plenty of use once the weather has warmed up a bit. You can see a beautiful colour/print blocked version sewn by Anna here.

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Another Tabor V-Neck

I’ve sewn five tops from this pattern now!  The first three are covered in this blog post.  I have discovered that you really do need to use the recommended fabrics for the wide neckband to work well.  Don’t go off-piste!

Sew House Seven Tabor v-neck

This sweatery knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics a couple of years ago has proved to be just the ticket. It’s a bit spongy, doesn’t have too much lycra/spandex, and the wide neckband inserts and sits perfectly. This fabric is black on the reverse and has a loopy finish on the right side. No real idea what the composition is.

Sew House Seven Tabor v-neck

This was an unexpected sewing hit – I was really just trying to use up fabric leftovers! I’ve worn it quite a lot over winter; perfect for cosy at home days. It is ‘sweater version #4’ – A semi-deep V-neck with a 2”/5cm wide lapped neckband. It also features a split hem with vented sides and narrow, long sleeves. It works best with sweater knits that do not have too much structure or stretch recovery.

From the pattern website: The Tabor V-Neck is a simple yet versatile style that is as dressed up or casual as you’d like to make it. It is a loose fitting, drop shoulder tee or sweater that is built for comfort while looking smart. With many different options for sleeves, necklines and body lengths, you can make a Tabor V-neck for every season. Due to its wide, oversized body width, the Tabor V-Neck T-shirts are most flattering when sewn in a light-weight, fluid knit fabric with at least 25% stretch such as rayon, bamboo or soy knits while the sweaters are best with sweater knits that also have at least 25% stretch however, do not have a high lycra content (6% or above) or have too much stretch recovery. This is to allow the wide neckband to perform at its finest without puckering or gathering.

Tabor V-neck line drawing

As you’d probably imagine, this is a fast garment to sew.  I used my sewing machine and my overlocker for construction.  And while I was at it, I pulled out a remnant length of soft mid-weight merino knit I’d found at The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe – and there was just enough of it for ‘sweater version #5’ – A semi-deep V-neck with a 2”/5cm wide lapped neckband. It also features a cropped, straight hem and is sleeveless.

Sew House Seven Tabor v-neck

I don’t seem to have any modelled photos of this version on me, but can assure you that it’s been worn as a warm layering piece, generally over jeanss and a long-sleeved tee. As you’d imagine this is incredibly fast to sew, and a great way to use up smaller pieces of fabric.

Sew House Seven Tabor v-neck

I think that I should crank out a couple more of the tee versions of this pattern before summer really hits!

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Tabor V-Neck

This pattern has been out for a little while.  Despite it having one of the features that usually makes me hit the ‘buy’ button very quickly – that V-Neck – it took me a little while to purchase it and sew it up.  But once I started, I made three!  Details on the pattern are as follows:

Tabor Vneck envelope cover

The Tabor V-Neck is a simple yet versatile style that is as dressed up or casual as you’d like to make it. It is a loose fitting, drop shoulder tee or sweater that is built for comfort while looking smart. With many different options for sleeves, necklines and body lengths, you can make a Tabor V-neck for every season. Due to its wide, oversized body width, the Tabor V-Neck T-shirts are most flattering when sewn in a light-weight, fluid knit fabric with at least 25% stretch such as rayon, bamboo or soy knits while the sweaters are best with sweater knits that also have at least 25% stretch however, do not have a high lycra content (6% or above) or have too much stretch recovery. This is to allow the wide neckband to perform at its finest without puckering or gathering.

There are five versions of this top – some designed for lighter weight fabrics than others. It can be sewn sleeveless, with sleeve cuffs, or with long fitted sleeves.  The hemline can be cropped, curved or straight across with a split.  The neckband treatment also varies depending on the version chosen.

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte

I started with View 4: A semi-deep V-neck with a 2”/5cm wide lapped neckband. It also features a split hem with vented sides and narrow, long sleeves. It works best with sweater knits that do not have too much structure or stretch recovery.

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte

Note that bit about not sewing the sweaters in knits with a high lycra content or too much stretch recovery. I ignored that advice, choosing to sew my sweater in a high quality ponte that also had high stretch recovery. I should have followed that advice. It’s there for a reason.

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte

Getting the wide neckband to sit nicely was such a struggle in this fabric! I had minor issues at the front, but it was at the back of the neckline, where the attached edge is stretched much more than the folded edge, that it became a big issue. Before I used my much loved strategy of ‘steam the heck out of it’ it was a big puckered mess. Perseverance paid off, and the final result was quite okay, but take it from me – follow the fabric recommendations if you’re sewing the wide lapped neckband!

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte

I also had big issues sewing and hemming this fabric. My stitches started off looking like this:

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte

Rest assured that it’s the same fabric – phone camera behaved weirdly under artificial light. Look at all those skipped stitches! Aarrgghh! I did all the usual things – fresh (universal) needle, tried most other types of needles that were in my drawer, rethreaded the machine, cleaned the machine, rethreaded it again…then went to the shops the next day and bought a sharps needle. It made all the difference.

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte

What a lovely zig-zag! So, onto my next version. I thought that I should give credit to the fabric recommendations, so sewed up the cropped, sleeveless sweater version, also with the wide lapped neckband, but this time from french terry remnants that were in stash.

Tabor V-neck in french terry from Clear It

So fast! So EASY! That neckband attached without any issues at all!

Tabor V-neck in french terry from Clear It

Actually, I think that it took longer to cut this out and pin it together than to sew it, as I needed to take stripe matching into account. I finished edges with a zig-zag stitch again (I often prefer it to a twin needle).

Tabor V-neck in french terry from Clear It

The weeks rolled by, then I pulled out the pattern again to sew a summer weight version from a rayon knit piece I’d picked up at Rathdowne Fabrics. This is the tee version 2 with the narrow lapped neckband.

Tabor V Neck in rayon jersey

V-neckbands in knits are often a little bit tricky, I won’t deny. You need to take your time, reinforce as instructed, and be prepared to unpick and re-do a little. That steam iron also comes in handy.

Tabor V Neck in rayon jersey

I chose to topstitch outside the neckband to secure the seam allowances and keep it sitting flat, but it’s not perfect. However, it’s acceptable.

Tabor V Neck in rayon jersey

Fabric limitations forced me to introduce a centre back seam this time around. Otherwise, it’s sewn as per the pattern (and as per the excellent instructions). All three versions are the same size, but I can’t remember off hand what that size is! I’d have to dig out the pattern to check. It’s a loose fitting body, so my main focus was on getting the shoulder and upper chest fit to work for me. I am happy with the fit and will sew the same size in future.

Tabor V Neck in rayon jersey

So there you go – three Tabor V-Necks! This is definitely a workhorse pattern and a very useful basic. It’s also good value for money with all the options that are included.

Tabor V-neck in french terry from Clear It

Just remember – sew it in the recommended fabrics! And it’s always a good idea to iron folded garments before they are photographed…

Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck Sweater in ponte