Month: September 2021

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Selina woven top

When I first saw the Style Arc Selina top I thought ‘nah, too frilly for me’.  But I bought it anyway!

Style Arc Selina top in fabric from Super Cheap Fabrics

I sewed it up in very lightweight and soft seersucker from Super Cheap Fabrics. It wasn’t on their website for long, and I haven’t seen it (or anything similar) since.  Close up it is a green and light cream gingham, but those checks are teensy so it reads more like a textured sage.

Style Arc Selina top in fabric from Super Cheap Fabrics

I sewed size 12, and if I remember correctly I did a high rounded upper back alteration by adding to the centre bottom of the yoke (not to the neckline) and curving it back up to nothing at the armhole seam. I also cut the back yoke twice so that I could use the burrito method to self-line it and provide a little more structure across the shoulders and upper back.

Style Arc Selina top in fabric from Super Cheap Fabrics

This is a roomy top, as you can see from the line diagrams. No bust darts needed for fit, and fairly wide shoulders. From the website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: A line top, Sits at the hip, Hem frills, Sleeve frills, Faced neckline, Gathers falling from back yoke, Slight hi-low hemline, Easy fit. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Rayon, crepe, silk, washed linen.

Because of the softness and semi-sheerness of the fabric I decided not to use the suggested facings to finish the neckline. Instead I cut some bias binding from leftover fabric, and applied it so that it showed on the outside.

Style Arc Selina top in fabric from Super Cheap Fabrics

Construction was mostly on the sewing machine, with the overlocker used to finish edges. I narrow hemmed the ruffle edges by turning it twice and stitching it on the machine. If I was using a crisper or slightly heavier fabric I would probably overlock the edge then turn it once to hem it in order to reduce bulk. It would be easy for the ruffles to be very ‘sticky-outy’ in a different fabric. I also made sure to iron the ruffle seam allowance flat once it had been joined to the body of the garment, but decided not to topstitch the seam allowance to the body of the garment as I often would.

Style Arc Selina top in fabric from Super Cheap Fabrics

This was an extremely unseasonal sew, so it’s waiting for the weather to warm up enough to actually wear. I think it will work well with my white linen pants. It would be easy to make this without the ruffles if they’re not your thing.

Style Arc Selina top in fabric from Super Cheap Fabrics

Worn here with Elk necklace, Style Arc Fifi pants, Django & Juliette sandals.

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Style Arc Sabel boyfriend knit cardi

Stella is fourteen, and her current style aesthetic is heavily reminiscent of 90s grunge (maybe with a touch of emo and/or goth thrown in, although she’d deny both those descriptors).  This means that everything is black, grey, or white, with only an occasional flash of another colour.  I know, how can this be my child – where is the colour and print!

Style Arc Sabel cardigan in wool from The Cloth Shop

A consequence of Stella’s style preferences is that there is not much ‘mum-made’ that has been entering her wardrobe. I took a punt one day some months ago when I was at The Cloth Shop and bought a length of wool check and coordinating black ribbing, intending to sew the Style Arc Sabel boyfriend cardigan. Stella had expressed a wish for an oversized cardi, so I crossed my fingers hard and hoped that this would meet with her approval.

Style Arc Sabel cardigan in wool from The Cloth Shop

Although the cardigan is designed for knits, I used a woven. I was pretty confident that it would still work; it’s like a boiled wool, so has some give in it. And of course, the rib that I used for the bands is a knit. I chose to sew size 6, which is the size that I buy in shops for Stella.

Style Arc Sabel cardigan in wool from The Cloth Shop

From the pattern website: This trendy oversized cardi has a dropped armhole and slim sleeves. The large patch pockets finish off this fashion forward cardigan. Use lovely big snaps on the front closure. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Sweater knit, or any knit suitable for a cardigan.

Stella made this cardigan even easier for me as she didn’t want the pockets or buttons/closure included. This made for a very fast sew. I did of course pay attention to matching the checks across the side seams, and centred the stripes down the sleeves. They match up okay with the body as well, but are not precise at the shoulder seams.  I used grey overlocker thread, but now wish that I’d used black. The grey thread shows up so obviously on the black ribbing when the cardigan flips open during wear, which it often does. Dammit. Hems were sewn on the sewing machine, and the thread sunk right into the textured wool.

Style Arc Sabel cardigan in wool from The Cloth Shop

Other than that, both Stella and I are happy with how this cardigan has turned out! She has worn it a couple of times, which is saying something since we’ve mostly been in lockdown since it was made and her main garment of choice has been her Oodie. Now I’m wracking my brain to come up with what I could sew for her next.

Style Arc Sabel cardigan in wool from The Cloth Shop

adult's clothing, sewing

Vogue 9161 top

It looks like Vogue 9161 is now out of print, although you should be able to find it on eBay or Etsy. It’s a Marcy Tilton pattern that includes a top and a skirt. I’ve made both before, blogged here.

Both the skirt and top that I sewed back in early 2018 are still in my wardrobe, and still fit with my aesthetic.  It was definitely time to give the pattern another whirl!

Vogue 9161 in knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

This time around I just sewed the top. It seems that I chose a fabric that is very similar in colour to the one I sewed it in last time! That top was in a linen knit, and it’s got a bit shorter with sucessive washes. The fabric is a knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics – it feels like a viscose/cotton/spandex blend.

Vogue 9161 in knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

I did a superb job of attaching the neckband – then realised that I’d attached it with the neckband seam right at the centre front of the top instead of the centre back! Out with the trusty unpicker (and yes, it had already been overlocked). Fortunately the reattachment worked fine.

Vogue 9161 in knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

This top has interesting seaming and shaping, with godets inserted into the side seams to really add to the amount of swing. I sewed size Medium (I measure a size or two larger than that) as it only really needed to fit well across the shoulders and upper chest. The style ease would take care of the bust and waist measurements!

I will sew this top again, but in a different colour! It’s very easy to wear and the comparatively short length works well proportionately with some of the higher waisted and fuller pants and skirts that are in my wardrobe.  I’ll also make the skirt again at some stage.

Vogue 9161 in knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

As with most Marcy Tilton designs, it is definitely along the lines of ‘art teacher chic’ with that looseness through the body. As you know, that’s something that I usually like in my clothes! It’s also very forgiving to my size fluctations.

Vogue 9161 in knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics

adult's clothing, sewing, vintage patterns

Kwik Sew 1570

Don’t overlook those 80s patterns that are kicking around in your stash!  I recently sewed Kwik Sew 1570, with a very current result.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

As is often the case, John Kaldor’s old slogan ‘Fabric Makes Fashion’ definitely applies! I used a black and navy on white print in a very drapey polyester/spandex.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

Size wise, it was possibly the Medium. There is loads of ease! While the bottom of the front is narrow hemmed and ties in the centre, the back hemline is a double thickness self-fabric band.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

The neckline and sleeves are finished with narrow self-fabric bands. Construction was pretty much all on the overlocker; just the front hem needed the sewing machine. Note that the wrong side of the fabric might show on the ties, so make sure that you do things neatly there!

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

I’d really like to try the other version of this pattern too, with the ribbed neckband, hem band and sleeve cuffs. I wonder how much rib I have in stash?

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

This top is one that I’m likely to wear to work once we can go on-site again. It should also work really well with my work travel wardrobe – as much as I love linen clothing, I need things that don’t crush when I’m travelling for work! This will be perfect.

Vintage Kiwk Sew 1570 in poly spandex knit

adult's clothing, sewing

DIBY Club Cecilia Crisscross sweater

This is my third go at a DIBY Club sweater pattern.  I’ve sewn both the Mae Poncho Sweater and the Adrianne Sweater, and both those garments are in frequent wardrobe rotation. This time I gave the Cecilia Cisscross Sweater a try.

DIBY Club Cecilia Sweater in viscose spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics plus SA Evie to go under

One of the things that I really like about DIBY Club patterns is that they contain lots of information about how to best alter the pattern to suit your own measurements, including your height. Because I am 158cm tall, with a proportionately short torso, I shortened this sweater two inches through the body, theoretically following the instructions in the pattern. Unfortunately, I didn’t do this correctly on the front pattern piece – because look at what happened!

DIBY Club Cecilia Sweater in viscose spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics plus SA Evie to go under

Nobody needs a great big hole in the side seam beside each boob – unless you’re breastfeeding, maybe. Oh bummer! The lovely teal viscose/lycra from Super Cheap Fabrics really didn’t deserve to be wasted, so I decided to use some of the leftovers to sew a Style Arc Evie knit top to go underneath.

DIBY Club Cecilia Sweater in viscose spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics plus SA Evie to go under

So now I am a little more covered up!  And obviously, unless I raise my arms like this it’s not immediately noticeable (except anyone who reads my blog will now notice it immediately if you ever run into me wearing it).

DIBY Club Cecilia Sweater in viscose spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics plus SA Evie to go under

I figure that others like to know that experienced sewers such as myself still have the ability to mightily stuff things up. Since then I have gone back to the pattern and fixed what I’d done to the front pattern piece so that the next time that I sew it those holes won’t be there, but the overall top will still be this length.

DIBY Club Cecilia Sweater in viscose spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics plus SA Evie to go under

This is straightforward to sew. One pattern piece for the front, one for the back, one for the sleeves. The neckline and lower hem is turned and stitched before sewing the side seams. I chose the cuff option to finish the sleeves, but should have shortened them a couple of inches first (and will do so when I next sew this pattern).

This is a really cute design, that I really didn’t do a good job of! I’m still not certain that this muslin is wearable.  I’m looking forward to sewing this up again at some stage.  It’s the sort of style that is likely to need a camisole or tank underneath, even without those special side seam holes!  So please, don’t do what I did – when you make adjustments, walk those seamlines and check that they will still match up properly!

DIBY Club Cecilia Sweater in viscose spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics plus SA Evie to go under

adult's clothing, sewing

Anitra jumpsuit

Although jumpsuits have been all the rage over the past couple of years, I haven’t succumbed.  I did try sewing one a number of years ago, but it went straight to the op shop.  I even printed and cut out the Zadie jumpsuit pattern that it seems like everyone has sewn – but didn’t ever get pattern on to fabric.  I have jumpsuit patterns in my stash.  But it took a stretch jumpsuit pattern for me to actually make the leap and sew one up.

Anitra jumpsuit in Darn Cheap Fabrics lurex knit

Now, I know that dropped crotches aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I don’t mind them at all. They are definitely ‘a look’ though – especially from behind!

Anitra jumpsuit in Darn Cheap Fabrics lurex knit

The pattern is the Anitra Harem Style Jumpsuit, from Style Sew Me patterns. It’s the first pattern I’ve used from this designer. From the website: Are you looking for a one-piece that you’ll never want to take off? Anitra is your pattern! Transform your favorite jersey knit fabric into a stylish and comfortable jumpsuit that you can wear dressed out for a night out, in the office with a cute blazer and heels, or sneakers for a comfy day with the family. Skills Used: Stretch fabrics, elastic. Sizes Included: XS – 2XL

This is actually quite simple to sew, but there is a YouTube Sewalong by the designer available if that works for you. I sewed size L, which corresponded best with my measurements. If I sew it again I will shorten the bottom half of the jumpsuit by an inch or two from the waist to better suit my 158cm height – the legs are a little too long.  It would also raise the crotch a little (there’s plenty of room for adjustment there).

Anitra jumpsuit in Darn Cheap Fabrics lurex knit

The pants legs wrap over one another, so the pattern pieces are not conventionally shaped. The top is super simple, with a front and a back piece. The neckline is fairly open but it needs to be, as that is how you get in and out of the jumpsuit.

Anitra jumpsuit in Darn Cheap Fabrics lurex knit

The neckline and sleeves are hemmed with a simple narrow turn and stitch. This is not something that I often do for necklines but it worked well on the amount of scoop in this neckline. In the fashion photos on the pattern page the jumpsuit is worn off one shoulder, but that isn’t my scene. The model really rocks it though!

Anitra jumpsuit in Darn Cheap Fabrics lurex knit

The pants are gathered before attaching to the top at the waistline. That seam is sewn quite wide, then pressed up and stitched to the top to form a casing for elastic. I used elastic that was about an inch wide, from memory. I left an opening in the stitching to insert the elastic then adjusted the length of it until I was happy with how tight it was. Depending on your torso length, you can place the ‘waist’ wherever you like, especially lower on your hips if preferred.

Anitra jumpsuit in Darn Cheap Fabrics lurex knit

The fabric is a sparkly lurex navy knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. This is definitely a bit of fun that has worked out far better than I’d anticipated! The stretch of the fabric in combination with the elastic waist and overall design make it easy to get into and out of (yes, jumpsuits are annoying when it comes to ease of undressing to go to the loo) and easy to wear. Recommended!  Worn here with Django & Juliette sandals and a beaded necklace bought in Kota Kinabalu (in Malaysian Borneo).

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Kitt knit dress

I sewed this one some time ago, just as the weather was getting cold!  I haven’t had the opportunity to wear it yet, but I love it.

Style Arc Kitt knit dress in foiled remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

It’s quite intriguing that there are so many versions of knit sack dresses around. A few tweaks in shaping here and there, and I jump on board to try another pattern! This is the Style Arc Kitt knit dress.

Style Arc Kitt knit dress in foiled remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

From the Style Arc website: This is the perfect throw on dress with its slight cocoon shape, extended shoulder line, patch pockets and a shaped hemline. Kitt Knit Dress is a simple make and has a loose fit. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit jersey, slinky, T shirt knit fabric

As you can see from the line drawing, this is simple. Front, back, narrow neck binding, patch pockets. I sewed size 12.

Style Arc Kitt knit dress in foiled remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The pockets have a nice amouont of drape in this fabric. It’s a gold foiled print on a dark navy knit base – and yes, it was a remnant. I found it at Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Style Arc Kitt knit dress in foiled remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is such a simple style that it really lets the fabric be the star. Depending on what you choose to sew it in it could be super casual or quite dressed up. The neckline binding is quite narrow, and is completely turned to the inside then topstitched in place. It’s a very neat finish. I used double sided fusible tape on the sleeve and dress hems before topstitching them in place.

Style Arc Kitt knit dress in foiled remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Definitely another pattern to put in the ‘winner’ pile!  A couple of these would be excellent additions to a summer holiday suitcase – if we ever get to go away on summer holidays again, that is!

Style Arc Kitt knit dress in foiled remnant from Darn Cheap Fabrics

adult's clothing, Helen's Closet Patterns, sewing

Blackwood the third

Okay, it’s another repeat.  You know the drill.  A few photos, links to the previous posts.

Helens Closet Blackwood cardign in striped ponte

The Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan always feels very sleek to me. Althought this is my third go at it, I have only made the longline version. See here for the first one I sewed, and here for the second.

Helens Closet Blackwood cardign in striped ponte

This striped ponte came from The Cloth Shop. As well as the need to do some stripe matching, it provided me with the opportunity to have a bit of fun with stripe direction on the bands, cuffs and pockets.

Helens Closet Blackwood cardign in striped ponte

I sewed size 14, the same as my previous versions. Construction was mostly on the overlocker, with the machine used for topstitching to secure the pockets and the front bands. It’s really quite fast to make – I think that it took longer to cut out because of the stripes!

Helens Closet Blackwood cardign in striped ponte

Worn here with Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch black twill from Drapers Fabrics, Vogue 9057 top, Ebb & Ive scarf, Django & Juliette boots.

adult's clothing, crochet

Ceresia sweater

It takes much longer to crochet a jumper than it does to sew a garment.  After all, you are making the fabric and shaping it and adding details all at the same time!

Ceresia Sweater in BWM Tweed

This is the Ceresia sweater, pattern by Linda Skuja of Eleven Handmade. She sells patterns on Etsy as well as Ravelry and through her website.

Ceresia Sweater in BWM Tweed

The yarn is Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Tweed, in the shade Old Rose.

Ceresia Sweater in BWM Tweed

It took me a little while to get into the rhythm of the angled stitches and bobbles, as it often does when following instructions by a new-to-me designer, but once I was in the groove it was very satisfying to work. As you can see, it’s a relatively simple design with minimal shaping. BIG front and back, with slim sleeves to balance out the volume.  As is often the case with crochet, fibre choice makes a big difference to size and drape.

Ceresia Sweater in BWM Tweed

Ceresia Sweater in BWM Tweed

I crocheted the smaller of the body sizes, and possibly should have done a smaller sleeve option as well. This is still okay though. And gee, it’s warm to wear.

Ceresia Sweater in BWM Tweed

This won’t be the last time that I crochet an Eleven Handmade pattern – they have loads of interesting and unusual texture.

adult's clothing, Helen's Closet Patterns, sewing

Helen’s Closet March dress

At the moment there appears to be a glut of patterns for loose fitting dresses with gathered skirts and gathered sleeves.  Despite having many in my stash that could have fitted that brief or be easily adapted to it, I bought the Helen’s Closet March top and dress pattern when it was on sale.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

I decided to sew a winter version, so used a brushed wool blend twill that was in deep stash and matched it with a paisley printed vintage wool for the contrasting bodice overlay.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

From the pattern page: The March top and dress is a fun retro-style pattern featuring voluminous sleeves in two lengths and a gathered skirt (View A), gathered peplum (View B), or a straight peplum (View C). We love this whimsical design because it is comfortable, easy to style, and fun to wear! The interfaced front and back bodice panels add visual interest and provide a great place for a featured fabric or embellishment like embroidery. Views A and B are finished with a neck tie that you can tie in the front or leave to hang open. View C has a clean neckline finish with no tie. The neck tie can be added or removed from any of the views. The dress view features extra deep inseam pockets that are secured into the waistband seam.

As you can see, I chose to sew the dress view A with the neck tie, and the longer sleeve length. Of note, the contrast bodice panels are an overlay, applied like an external facing – they are not panels with seamlines that provide any shaping.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

I sewed size 12, without alteration. The skirt is at pattern length. The sleeves are gathered both at the head where they join the bodice, and at the wrist into a narrow band. No elastic!

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

The inseam pocket insertion is very nice – well explained and illustrated, and it results in pockets that are secured across the waist seam plus have minimal bulk. I’ll use the pocket pattern piece and insertion method again.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

I prefer this without the neck tie done up; it feels a bit high at the front neck on me when tied (which is common for me and my forward shoulders and forward head) and I don’t love the look of it tied on me either.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

The dress layered nicely under a coat and with boots when I last wore it (in the days before lockdown) plus there was room underneath for a merino tee for additional warmth.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

This is a pretty versatile pattern. As with most Helen’s Closet patterns, there are plenty of ‘hacks‘ on her blog that suggest ways to modify and adapt the pattern for even more garment options. Definite props to Helen’s Closet for excellent pattern illustrations and instructions too. I suspect that I’ll give this pattern another whirl at some stage.

Helens Closet March dress in wool blend twill

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