THORNBERRY

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Style Arc Joy woven vest #2

After sewing Stella’s Style Arc Joy woven vest, she asked for another one the next size up. The first one is quite snug! So I reprinted the pattern and cut size 6.

This time around I used a striped fabric that I’d bought on my excellent visit to Stonemountain & Daughter with Sue. It’s got an interesting weave and includes three colours that Stella wears often.

Because I’d sewn it not long before, it was very straightforward to make a second time. I did have to be careful to not overhandle the pieces as the fabric was prone to fraying. Rather than use self-fabric to line it like I did the first time, I found a smooth cotton/linen in stash in beige and lined it in that.

The buttons are brown shell buttons that I am pretty sure I bought from Thailand via Etsy. The pockets on this vest aren’t pockets at all, just non-functional pocket welt-style flaps that are there for decoration. I did need to ensure that they lined up and were at the same angle!

Stella recently turned sixteen – yes! sixteen! – which reminds me that I started this blog when I was pregnant with Stella. Sixteen years of blogging, good grief! It still serves me well as a sewing journal, even though blogs definitely aren’t what they used to be once people switched to Instagram, YouTube and lots now on TikTok. Anyway, this is the outfit that she wore for her birthday party (at home, with a few school friends). Her earrings and necklace are mine, from the 80s! Her shirt is from Uniqlo, and the chocolate brown suede skirt was found in the Goodwill store in Haight-Ashbury, San Francisco. White loafers from Cotton On.

Thursday, 29 June, 2023Wednesday, 28 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing

Tabor the sixth

I feel as though this blog is currently just repeat, repeat, repeat! Today’s garment is the sixth Tabor V-Neck that I have sewn. You can read about the first five here and here.

This time around I’ve really managed the Goldilocks effect and got everything just right! The fabric type, the sizing, the print. Versions 4 and 5 of this pattern really does require you to use the recommended fabric types of sweater knit fabrics with at least 25% stretch such as sweater knits from wool jersey, novelty sweater knits and softer rib knits. Avoid knits with excellent stretch recovery (such as pontes and high lycra content fabrics- 6% and above) for use on the neckband.

I had this Super Cheap Fabrics sweater knit left over from making a dress. There was just enough to cut the top out while still placing the print in a pleasing way.

Fron the pattern website: The Tabor V Neck has many versions, but all feature drop shoulders and a loose fit through the body.
Version #1 has two neck options, a deep V-neck or a mitered neckband. It also features a curved hem and narrow, long sleeves.
Version #2 has two neck options, a deep V-neck or a mitered neckband. It also features a curved hem and banded, short sleeves to roll up.
Version #3 has two neck options, a deep V-neck or a mitered neckband. It also features a cropped, straight hem and is sleeveless.
Version #4 is a semi-deep V-neck with a lapped neckband. It also features a split hem with vented sides and narrow, long sleeves. It works best with sweater knits that do not have too much structure or stretch recovery.
Version #5 is a semi-deep V-neck with a lapped neckband. It also features a cropped, straight hem and is sleeveless. It works best with sweater knits that do not have too much stretch recovery.

I can’t remember what size I sewed; I would need to pull out the pattern to check. Maybe later! It was probably size 12 or 14. This is a terrific basics pattern, a bit elevated with side vents. Pay attention to the fabric recommendations for it to work best!

Wednesday, 28 June, 2023Wednesday, 28 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Berlin Jacket #2

Tessuti really do offer loads of coat and jacket patterns especially for fabrics such as boiled wool, that doesn’t fray. These often feature overlapped raw edged seams. The first time that I sewed one I found it a little challenging, mostly because I am so used to traditional right-sides-together seams that have the raw edges hidden on the inside of the garment. But now I can sew one of these types of jackets quite quickly!

This is my second go at the Berlin jacket. The first one went to a friend, purely because the colour really wasn’t me. This one will be staying in my wardrobe – after all, it matches my hair!

From the Tessuti website: The Berlin Jacket is a collarless, longline jacket featuring patch pockets, extended dropped shoulders and full-length sleeves with a turned back cuff. The back neck is slightly raised. Effortlessly stylish, the jacket is the ideal winter wardrobe staple and perfect for layering over dresses or any casual outfit. Sizes (AUS): 6-16 & 16-22. Recommended fabrics: boiled wool and boiled felted wool. Not suitable for woven fabrics that fray when cut.

The overall silhouette is very similar to that of the Style Arc Sigrid coat; actually there are many patterns around that could potentially be subbed in for this one. However, the overlapped raw edged seams of the Berlin really do make it a worthwhile pattern to sew – it’s fast, and a little ‘edgy’ (see what I did there). The back neckline sits particularly nicely on me.

I sewed size Medium, which is a size smaller than my measurements, and like the resulting fit. The fabric came to me from a delightful friend. It’s much smoother than what I think of when I hear ‘boiled wool’ but it’s very tightly woven and doesn’t fray when cut. When I look very closely I think it’s actually a knit rather than a weave; it’s hard to tell in that slightly marled colour. The pocket opening, front/collar and cuffs are finished with an unusual facing treatment that results in a double raw edge. Very effective.

Tuesday, 27 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Grasser, sewing

Grasser blouse #382

This is only my second go at a Grasser pattern. I couldn’t resist the design lines – not that you can see them clearly in the print that I chose to sew it in! Think of this as a wearable muslin.

So, you look at the above photo and see a round neck, long sleeved blouse. But if you look closely, you can see the seaming. Really, the line drawing shows it best.

The pattern is Grasser blouse pattern #382. I am pretty sure that Grasser is a Russian pattern company, based elsewhere. The patterns are ordered in Russian sizes, to your height. The description on the website includes: Straight silhouette blouse. Hip-length. On the front is undercut, to the bottom of the gradually turning on the back. The clasp on the zipper tape in the average seam of the back. Set in sleeve, the sleeve bottom is decorated with a shaped undercut with an assemblage. Fabric suggestion: The soft, well-draped fabrics dress-blouses range, without stretching.

I decided on size 50 as per my measurements, in the height range 158-164cm (I am 158 cm tall). There is a link to a size chart on each pattern page, along with instructions on how to measure yourself. There are also descriptions of the ease included in the design on each pattern page. I am pleased with the amount of ease that I ended up with in this blouse, although the sleeves are much longer on me than on the model.

The English instructions have gone through google translate or similar from Russian, and certainly did lead to some head-scratching moments for me. I ended up mostly using my knowledge of what would be an appropriate order of construction. I didn’t include the zip at the centre back neck, as I was pretty sure that I’d be able to get it on without. The darts at the back neckline certainly do allow for much better fit in that area. I could possibly have narrowed the shoulders.

The fabric is a printed rayon/viscose twill that I was given by a friend, and I’m pretty sure it’s originally from Spotlight. I really like the colours in the print, but I needed a brand new very sharp needle in the sewing machine in order for it not to create little pulls along seamlines. Fortunately for me I spotted the problem when sewing the back neck darts, very early in the process. Fussy fabric! The neck and the sleeve openings are faced, which looks good. I did consider using bias binding as stitched facings as I often do with blouses, but I’m glad that I just followed the instructions in the end and sewed it as designed. I secured the facings with some stitching in the ditch along seamlines.

This pattern gets a definite thumbs up from me. It’s very reasonably priced, there’s an excellent size range, and I always like it when patterns can be purchased for different heights as well. The instructions aren’t great for an English speaker, but that’s fine with me as the pattern was well drafted and marked and everything fitted together. Next time that I sew this I’ll use a stripe and play with directions, or I’ll use different colours or prints for the lower body and sleeve cuffs so that you can really see the shaping.

Monday, 26 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

More repeats – Vogue 8634 and Style Arc Simone

I’m never quite certain how much information you (and I!) need when I blog about repeat sews. There’s not usually much to say about the instructions, because I often don’t refer back to them when repeating a garment, and you’ve already seen the line drawings and heard my general thoughts. I suppose the main thing is if I have varied from the pattern in terms of fitting or style alterations.

I’m starting with Vogue 8634, an out of print pattern that I sewed when away on a restorative weekend at Sewjourn in May. The caramel and marle grey stripe is a divine wool knit that I bought from a friend’s destash, but I note is currently available at Potter & Co. I am very tempted to buy more of it; it was incredibly lovely to sew with and has been equally lovely to wear. Such good quality!

If this blog is to be believed, this is the fifth time that I have sewn this pattern! I made it three times in 2011, once in 2018 (a friend is now wearing that version so I get to see it regularly) and now for the fifth time in 2023. That’s pattern longevity! I used the same pattern pieces, with the upper front taped to the lower front to make one piece, and added heaps of width to the body pieces from the armhole down when cutting out, angling it out straight to give me extra inches through the midriff, particularly in the front for my belly. I also shortened the pattern a little, mostly due to fabric restrictions. It was actually handy to have those prior blog posts to refer to. There wasn’t quite enough fabric to make the collar/cowl piece the full width it is drafted for, but it seems to have still worked out okay.

I did match the stripes at the seams, other than the front raglan sleeve. It’s very difficult – actually close to impossible – to match stripes across both front and back raglan sleeves, depending on the shaping. This top is a very fast sew, all overlocked together after stripe matching the seams with a pin every couple of stripes. Yes, I was very careful to pull those pins out before they got to the overlocker blade! I used my sewing machine to do a twin needled hem on the bottom and the sleeves, after using double-sided fusible tape to secure them in place.

To go with the top (and many other garments in my wardrobe) I sewed up a Style Arc Simone cardigan.

My blog tells me that I’ve sewn this pattern eight times now, starting back in 2014! I’ve sewn it in wool blend jersey, polyester knits, very drapey bamboo jersey, and in soft ponte. This time around I sewed it in a fairly lightweight merino jersey from Drapers Fabrics. I’ve found this to be an excellent travel cardigan when sewn in a lighter weight, and I also like the way that the folded pockets drape best in that type of fabric. Ponte gives it an interesting structure, depending on the weight, but I find the effect from drapier fabrics more pleasing. It also rolls up nice and small to shove into a bag for that extra lightweight but warm layer.

Those two layers of wool are clinging together ridiculously when I look at photos from the back! That said, the size 12 fit across the upper back and shoulders is good in a knit. This is a very fast sew, pretty much all on the overlocker with the sewing machine used judiciously to secure the front pockets into the side seams and hem before overlocking, and for the hems.

These are pleasing additions to my winter and trans-seasonal wardrobe. Worn again with my Vado jeans, and Django & Juliette boots.

Sunday, 25 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Liesl + Co, sewing

Liesl + Co Gallery Tunic

Way back in 2017, I sewed the Liesl + Co Gallery Dress. I am still wearing that dress, and I still love it. A couple of months ago I returned to the pattern to sew the tunic length.

It’s pretty clear from the wrinkles in these photos that this time around I sewed the pattern up in linen, and these photos were taken after a few hour of wear! From the pattern website: Relaxed-fit pull-on tunic or dress. The tunic features cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves and a one-piece collar. The dress includes in-seam pockets, button-cuff full-length sleeves, and a band collar. Both versions include an inset front placket with a fun pleated detail, an inverted box pleat at back, and a curved shirttail hem that’s slightly longer in back.

I used the same pattern pieces as last time after cutting the dress length off and leaving out the pockets for the tunic length. I sewed mostly size 12 with size 14 body width. I really like that little inverted pleat at the back neck – it helps a lot with my rounded upper back!

Liesl + Co always has superb instructions and pattern drafting, and this was no exception. Instructions for full bust alterations are included in the pattern. I first came to Liesl’s patterns when I was sewing Oliver + S patterns for my daughters and was very glad when she started releasing adult patterns as well. I’ve noticed that nowadays she only does adult patterns – her daughter is now at university, so I guess that’s why! Her children’s patterns are classics – I have a couple of boxes of outgrown garments that I am keeping for memories.

As you can see, I sewed the full-length sleeves. The cuffs are a slightly unusual construction, without a placket but with a space left that folds up when the cuff is buttoned. I found a couple of buttons in stash that worked well enough with the colour of the fabric. I hand-stitched the collar band in place on the inside. I’ve discovered that although I don’t tend to wear ‘classic’ shirts with a traditional collar on a stand or even a camp collar, I do quite like a collar stand on it’s own. This is a very non-fussy garment to wear – pull it on and go!

Because this pattern was released years ago, there are plenty of examples of it in Flickr groups, on Instagram, and on blogs. I even found a tutorial for it on YouTube. I have some more fabric earmarked for another tunic – although maybe another dress will take priority! In these photos I am wearing the tunic with Vado non-stretch denim jeans that I sewed back in 2016. I wasn’t thrilled about these jeans at the time, but they were beautifully made so I kept them through various size fluctuations. They fit me again at the moment and I am wearing them heaps!

Saturday, 24 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Verona woven top

Winter school holidays are just beginning, and I also have two weeks off work! I am aiming to get my blog and Instagram updated over that time, but as you can imagine I have a whole lot of other things filling my calendar and my to-do list, so we’ll just see how I go!

I’ve sewn the Style Arc Verona woven top once before, but can’t seem to find photos or a blog post! From the Style Arc website:

Raglan 3/4 bias cut sleeves, with elastic
Gathered front and back neck
Bound neckline with button and loop opening
Wide hem facing
Square shape body
Sits on high hip
FABRIC SUGGESTION: Cotton, linen

I sewed it in silk noil, which was a gift from a friend. I had two lengths, with neither colour quite enough for a garment on it’s own, but in combination they were perfect for this top! I sewed size 12, added about 5/8″ to the length – next time I would add an inch and a half, or do the FBA that it probably needs – and I eliminated the centre back neckline opening, as my head is quite small. I took advantage of the centre back seam to include a small adjustment for my rounded upper back.

This top has beautiful wide facings around the hemline, which ensures that it keeps it’s shape. I think it’s quite a high end finish, especially if like me, you never tuck anything in. Having the sleeves cut on the bias gives them a beautiful drape and makes them especially comfortable to wear. They have simple elastic in a casing to gather them in. I might sew this top again with full length sleeves at some stage, although fitting a longer/larger sleeve piece onto the width of fabric might be challenging!

I made sure to stabilise the neckline edge of the sleeves with fusible tape so that the bias edge wouldn’t stretch out. The neckline is bias bound. I didn’t use the pattern piece for the neckband width – I cut it a little wider and then ran it through my bias tape maker, rather than following the pattern instructions to fold it in half. Then I applied it to the right side, folded it over to enclose the seam allowances, and hand-stitched the fold in place on the wrong side. I like the finish that gives me. It is important to mark the shoulder seams, centre front and centre back as per the neckband piece, and not to stretch out the bias neckband. Make sure that you use the front and back neckline gathering guides in order to draw up the centre front and centre back gathering to the right length.

For those who prefer more information than in the printed instructions, Style Arc also have a tutorial for sewing the Verona woven top. My tip re the sleeve elastic – use a safety pin to secure it at your preferred length, then wear the top at least once to decide on whether you want the elastic tighter or looser around your arm before finally securing the elastic in place.

I am definitely sewing this pattern again!

Friday, 23 June, 2023Friday, 23 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Another Style Arc Ethel top

I first sewed the Style Arc Ethel top way back in 2015. I sewed it a second time shortly after, then a third time in 2017. And despite my regular wardrobe purges, I still wear all three of those tops regularly in warmer weather. It’s a style that has been forgiving of my size changes, and it continues to be a valued wardrobe separate. I also continue to wear the Style Arc Ethel pants that I sewed at the same time.

This time around I sewed it from a remnant of hand-woven Thai cotton; I’m finally getting closer to the bottom of my Thailand souvenir stash. The number of seams in the pattern make it easy to tetris onto smaller remnants. You could also have lots of fun piecing this together from contrasting fabrics (hmmm, I have some linen that might work for next summer). I topstitch along the angled front and back seamlines for some extra detail and to stabilise.

This top has lovely wide facings to finish the neckline, hemline and armholes. The armhole one is a bit tricky the first time that you sew it so take your time. There’s only a tiny seam in the facing joining the front and back. Actually, I just discovered that Style Arc now have a tutorial for the neck and armholes. I chose not to interface any of the facings this time around.

From the Style Arc website: This gorgeous boxy shaped top with angled design lines gives your wardrobe a new and fashionable look. The wide facings give this top structure and style. This pattern has been cleverly drafted to cover the top of the arms whilst not losing any of the design elements. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, Crepe, Silk, light wool.

This pattern is such a winner for me. I love the resulting top, and there will definitely be more.

And once again, I’m wearing it with Stokx Square pants!

Friday, 7 April, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Betty tunic in rayon

When I was tidying/sorting/organising my fabric stash recently I came across some printed rayon from Spotlight that was left over from sewing Christmas gifts a few years ago. I decided that a good way to get it out of my stash would be to sew it up into something. There was just enough for a Style Arc Betty tunic.

This is another repeat – I’ve sewn this pattern twice before. From the pattern website: This relaxed fit, square shaped tunic features a round neck, side splits and a hi low hemline. This tunic will see you through many seasons and become a favourite. Leave the sleeve elbow length or turn back the shaped sleeve facing to create a cuff.

I made a couple of changes to the finishing. The front is a little bit shorter than drafted and doesn’t have quite a deep a hem as the back. That’s purely due to fabric restrictions (yes, I cut out the back first then realised how little fabric I had left to play with to cut out the front). I didn’t have enough fabric to do the shaped sleeve facings as per the pattern, and instead decided to cut and make some bias binding and finish the sleeve edges with that instead.

The neckline binding isn’t done as per the instructions either. It’s normally a narrower binding, but I decided to use it like an narrow bias external facing, applied the same way as the sleeve finish and topstitched in place. If you look closely you can see the ‘stripes’ around the neckline and sleeve hems are on the diagonal – that’s the bias tape! By the way, I sewed size 12.

This top also works beautifully with my Stokx Square Pants. Definitely a positive addition to my wardrobe!

Wednesday, 5 April, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Sew House Seven, sewing, Stokx Patterns

Longer sleeved Remy Raglan

When I need my sewing to be soothing and meditative, I turn to patterns that I’ve sewn before, in fabrics and styles that I know will work in my wardrobe because they are tried and true. I’ve sewn three of those types of garments in the past month. This one is the Sew House Seven Remy Raglan.

Each time I’ve made this I’ve chosen the view with the centre front seam and opening. Not that I ever have to undo the button to get the top over my head! I found a vintage yellow button in stash that goes nicely with the colours in the print.

There are a few different options in this pattern. From their website: The Remy Raglan has two front options and three sleeve options, all of which are compatible with both fronts.
Version #1 is a plain front
Version #2 features a split center and keyhole button closure
Short sleeves are meant to be worn rolled up and require fabric with no obvious wrong side
3/4 length sleeve gives more sleeve length
Gathered bracelet length sleeve is new to this pattern; if you have an older copy and would like to access this sleeve it is available as a free download

I altered the straight 3/4 sleeve pattern by slashing it mid-way and adding around 2 inches in length. I also extended the cuff turn-back at the hem of the sleeve so that I could do a wider hem that I hoped would look better when the sleeves were rolled up.

The fabric is a printed linen blend left over from when I sewed a Vali dress last year. It’s from Super Cheap Fabrics. It’s a fairly stiff fabric but is softening up more with repeated washing. I really like the colours and shapes in the print. I’m wearing my Remy Raglan with Stokx Square pants – I love these jeans! I have another pair cut out and fabric earmarked for a third pair. They’re a shape and style that are working really well for me at the moment.

Monday, 3 April, 2023Wednesday, 28 June, 2023 by thornberry