adult's clothing, sewing

More repeats – Vogue 8634 and Style Arc Simone

I’m never quite certain how much information you (and I!) need when I blog about repeat sews.  There’s not usually much to say about the instructions, because I often don’t refer back to them when repeating a garment, and you’ve already seen the line drawings and heard my general thoughts.  I suppose the main thing is if I have varied from the pattern in terms of fitting or style alterations.

Vogue 8634 in wool jersey

I’m starting with Vogue 8634, an out of print pattern that I sewed when away on a restorative weekend at Sewjourn in May. The caramel and marle grey stripe is a divine wool knit that I bought from a friend’s destash, but I note is currently available at Potter & Co. I am very tempted to buy more of it; it was incredibly lovely to sew with and has been equally lovely to wear. Such good quality!

Vogue 8634 in wool jersey

If this blog is to be believed, this is the fifth time that I have sewn this pattern! I made it three times in 2011, once in 2018 (a friend is now wearing that version so I get to see it regularly) and now for the fifth time in 2023. That’s pattern longevity! I used the same pattern pieces, with the upper front taped to the lower front to make one piece, and added heaps of width to the body pieces from the armhole down when cutting out, angling it out straight to give me extra inches through the midriff, particularly in the front for my belly. I also shortened the pattern a little, mostly due to fabric restrictions. It was actually handy to have those prior blog posts to refer to. There wasn’t quite enough fabric to make the collar/cowl piece the full width it is drafted for, but it seems to have still worked out okay.

Vogue 8634 in wool jersey

I did match the stripes at the seams, other than the front raglan sleeve. It’s very difficult – actually close to impossible – to match stripes across both front and back raglan sleeves, depending on the shaping. This top is a very fast sew, all overlocked together after stripe matching the seams with a pin every couple of stripes.  Yes, I was very careful to pull those pins out before they got to the overlocker blade! I used my sewing machine to do a twin needled hem on the bottom and the sleeves, after using double-sided fusible tape to secure them in place.

To go with the top (and many other garments in my wardrobe) I sewed up a Style Arc Simone cardigan.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in wool jersey

My blog tells me that I’ve sewn this pattern eight times now, starting back in 2014! I’ve sewn it in wool blend jersey, polyester knits, very drapey bamboo jersey, and in soft ponte. This time around I sewed it in a fairly lightweight merino jersey from Drapers Fabrics. I’ve found this to be an excellent travel cardigan when sewn in a lighter weight, and I also like the way that the folded pockets drape best in that type of fabric. Ponte gives it an interesting structure, depending on the weight, but I find the effect from drapier fabrics more pleasing. It also rolls up nice and small to shove into a bag for that extra lightweight but warm layer.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in wool jersey

Those two layers of wool are clinging together ridiculously when I look at photos from the back! That said, the size 12 fit across the upper back and shoulders is good in a knit.  This is a very fast sew, pretty much all on the overlocker with the sewing machine used judiciously to secure the front pockets into the side seams and hem before overlocking, and for the hems.

Style Arc Simone cardigan in wool jersey

These are pleasing additions to my winter and trans-seasonal wardrobe. Worn again with my Vado jeans, and Django & Juliette boots.