Liesl + Co Yanaka Jacket
Gee, Liesl Gibson is an excellent pattern designer. I first came across her patterns through the Oliver + S line of children’s patterns. It’s some years now since I’ve sewn them for my daughters; fortunately she also designs for adults! As well as the Lisette line sold through Butterick, there are Liesl + Co patterns. I’ve sewn a few of them over the years. They are often quite classic in style and are always impecably drafted with very clear instructions, and are generally available in both pdf and hard copy.
This is the Yanaka jacket. From the pattern page: A cross between a blazer and a cardigan, this chic, unlined jacket is semifitted, slightly cropped, and includes several unique features: a cutaway silhouette, cut-on sleeves, a sleeve gusset for better movement and fit, and a gentle stand-up collar. With no set-in sleeve and no closures, this style is fun and easy to sew as well as versatile to wear. The cut-out V-notch at the back hem adds a little extra style, and the pattern is great for color blocking. This style includes cup sizes with added bust darts for C and D cups to help you get a perfect fit. Suggested Fabrics: This pattern works best with medium- to heavyweight woven fabrics like denim, canvas, wool coating, jacquard, brocade, and bonded fabrics.
Once again, this was really a wearable muslin. I wasn’t at all sure how this type of jacket would fit with the rest of my style, but hoped that it would be a shape that might be a good ‘smart casual’ piece for my work wardrobe. The fabric is a textured stretch bengaline from Super Cheap Fabrics. I have enough left for a pair of pants – I wonder if I can rock a white suit?
This is size 12 with the C cup front, no other alterations. It’s an unlined jacket, but the collar and facing is interfaced. I chose to machine stitch the facings in place rather than hand-sew them as per the instructions, mostly because of the fabric that I was using. If I sewed this in wool or similar I would probably hand sew. I also chose to finish seam allowances with overlocking rather than binding them. Once again, that was mostly because of fabric choice.
The collar really does stand up beautifully! I’ll give this pattern another whirl in a heavier fabric, and suspect that it’s a pattern that will be used multiple times in the years ahead.
Great shaped jacket.
lovely!
Rockin’ a cool Elvis vibe!
I love it.
Cute. Yes you need the pants 😁
If anyone has made the Yanaka jacket and had issues with getting the front and the back to fit (the sleeve) after pivoting from the collar please let me know. Thanks. Sue
Hi Sue – did you clip to the seam line? Make sure that you match appropriate points then pin, making sure that the seamlines are matching up, and ease where needed.
My pattern pieces don’t match in length. I don’t know if this is because I printed out the A0 version? The notches don’t relate to each other either. I can’t find a tutorial or sew along so I don’t know if there is an issue with the pattern or what. It’s quite frustrating as the pattern is very wordy but the sketches don’t really help.
With this pattern you really need to make sure that you have all the pattern pieces orientated correctly. It’s easy to have the long underarm gusset upside down! And from memory there was some easing required. It was important to match seamlines and do pinning on a flat surface. You could contact the designer and see if she can help you.