Grasser appears to be a Russian pattern site, possibly using the same software as Lekala and Bootstrap Fashion.  These patterns often have quite interesting design details that I rarely come across elsewhere.  They also offer their patterns in much more customised sizes than most pattern companies, and the patterns are very reasonably priced.  My first try with a Grasser pattern is this one – Grasser 513.

This is an older Grasser pattern, so the instructions are much more basic than those provided with the newer patterns. The newer ones seem to have extensive instructions with step by step photos and sometimes links to blog tutorials. That said, the only tricky thing to figure out with this pattern was how to best do the sleeve ties.

Fortunately for me, Mie of Sewing Like Mad had written a detailed Instagram post on this pattern, with additional photos saved as a highlight in her stories. There is also a blog post on this pattern here (with a variation without the sleeve ties here).  A key message for this top was to alter the upper back pattern piece BEFORE CUTTING OUT to remove width at the back neckline.  I did that by slashing at the centre back neckline and then overlapping the required amount.  See Mie’s post for more information!

I sewed the upper front to the lower front on the machine, pressed the curved seam allowances open, then topstitched either side of the seamline to highlight it. Same thing on the back. I also topstitched the shoulder seam allowances in the same way, plus the seam allowances between the sleeve front and sleeve back. I did the ties the way that Mie described. Actually, I think that almost all the construction for this top was done on the sewing machine. I probably finished the neckband seam allowances on the overlocker.

Fabric wise, this is a taupe lightweight french terry from Seamstress Fabrics. The colour is very difficult to photograph accurately. I rather like working with this type of fabric. Anyway, back to the pattern! From the pattern page on the Grasser website: Sweatshirt of free silhouette, large volume, slightly narrowed to the bottom. On the front and back, there is a figured cut that gives a three-dimensional shape. Lowered shoulder line. Sleeve with upper and lower seam, ¾ in length, with single cut turn-down cuff and straps. Fabric suggestion: tight knitwear holding a shape or neoprene; Ribbing for neck binding.

It looks to me as though Grasser intend for the tie edges to be cut and left unfinished if the top is being made in something like neoprene, which makes sense considering the thickness of that fabric. One of the joys of sewing though is that you can substitute different fabric types – but of course then you need to figure out corresponding construction and finishing changes! Size wise I ordered this pattern according to my height – so the shortest height range – and body measurements which I think corresponded to RU 50. It looks to me as though the design is fitting me as intended!

This layers well over a long-sleeved tee as the weather gets colder, but it’s also quite nice for those in-between days. I have a few more Grasser patterns in my wishlist now, some more for my daughters than for me. I’ll definitely keep this pattern company in mind for future sewing.  I sewed this top back in March as a palate cleanser after a much more involved sew for Stella for her school’s Medieval Day – that’s coming up in my next blog post!