I am always a little excited when Nita-Jane of Pattern Fantastique releases a new pattern.  Her patterns have interesting design lines and remain stylish for a long time.  This is my wearable muslin of the Vali dress.

I sewed and photographed this dress back in March, and wore it to the Sew Melbourne Garden Party. The fabric is a cotton shirting that was in stash. It has a fine green and white stripe, and a little stretch. This means that it’s not really the ideal fabric for this design. It would be much better in one of the suggested fabrics – a drapey viscose, silk, linen or cotton. Not a tightly woven cotton with some spandex in the mix!

That said, I was aiming at a wearable muslin, and it’s definitely wearable! This is size 12, with the standard neckline. Although the dress is roomy through the body, the yoke is more fitted and I definitely advise selecting your size based on your bust/upper bust measurement. Don’t size down because of the body ease.

I referred to this on the day as my ‘nightie’ dress but I think that’s a function of the colour. Take a look at the Instagram hashtag of #validress to see how it looks in a variety of fabrics. It’s not a quick sew, but it’s very satisfying. Take your time and follow the instructions carefully.  Gathers, binding, side seam pockets, curved hemlines, they’re all enjoyable to do. The sleeve cuffs are easy – they’re elasticised! I suggest cutting the elastic a little long then adjusting it to fit you comfortably. It needs to be firm around your upper arm so that you get the puffiness, but not tight.

From the pattern website: The Vali Dress is a classic 70’s style glam smock. The high neckline is surrounded by sleeve and yoke gathers. Volumes of fabric, fine ties, topstitched facings and pocket bags will transform the simplest of materials into a romantic, textured and detailed dress or top. The Vali has two neckline options, the standard neckline and a drop neckline, for those who prefer a plunge or need a little more breastfeeding access. Sizes range from 6-26. The yoke is the key fitting point with a high neckline and close-fitting yoke line that gives form to an otherwise full flowing dress. The instructions contain more information on how to measure and choose the best size for you.

This dress will probably leave my wardrobe, but I will definitely sew this pattern again in a more suitable fabric, probably with the lower neckline option. I’m still tossing up whether my next go at the pattern will be a dress or the top version.  I’ll also do a forward shoulder adjustment to better fit my shape.