Month: April 2020

adult's clothing, sewing

Another Besharl tee

This is the second time that I’ve sewn the Style Arc Besharl tee – you can see the first one here.

Style Arc Besharl tee

When I cut out the Vogue 9057 top from a couple of blog posts ago there was enough left over for the front of something else. I pulled out the Besharl tee pattern, ferreted through the stash to find some matching rayon/spandex knit for the back, and went to it!

Style Arc Besharl tee

The pattern has a strip inserted into the centre back, which was perfect for the textured knit that I used on the front. I used the reverse side to the Vogue top as the right side for this, and used the rayon/spandex knit for the neckband.

Style Arc Besharl tee

I like the angled side seams. Considering that this tee just has a few pattern pieces – front, back, back insert, neckband – it still has some interesting style lines. The rayon/spandex is fairly lightweight and clings a little more than I’d like, but it feels lovely against the skin.

Style Arc Besharl tee

From the Style Arc website: This is a great basic “Tee” with a difference. The extended shoulder line creates the appearance of a short sleeve and the interesting angled front seam replaces the side seam. For the back panel why not use a contrast fabric or lace? FABRIC SUGGESTION Jersey or any knit tee shirt fabric.

besharl-tee

As you’d expect, construction was on the overlocker with the sewing machine used for hems (I think it was a zig-zag stitch) and to secure the neckband seam allowance.

Style Arc Besharl tee

adult's clothing, sewing

Presto Popover Top

This is a time full of dissonance, isn’t it?  Conflict between thoughts, opinions and behaviours, and a general lack of harmony between the what we can see in our immediate worlds and what is happening in the broader world.  Distress over individual and community circumstances, alongside the opportunity to count our blessings.  I went for a walk yesterday evening and the sunset was beautiful, families were out walking, there were dogs aplenty having more exercise than they’ve ever had.  Yet at the same time, there’s a sense of foreboding and overlying tension, because we all know what is going on in the world with covid-19.  How do we reconcile these things?  How do we maintain our sense of balance, of perspective, of appreciation, of reality, of sadness, of concern, while we go about our changed daily lives?  Some people will go to places of anger and blame, others to depression and sadness, others will sustain their positivity, and others will employ the ostrich technique in order to simply get through their day.  I have read a few memes during this time that I have found helpful.  One simply said ‘After all this is over, all that will really matter is how we treated each other’.

Naughty Bobbin Presto Pullover top

My first go at the Presto Popover Top, by Naughty Bobbin Patterns, wasn’t completely successful. Part of the issue was my fabric choice, but another part of it was that I really needed a high rounded back alteration. After seeing Marjorie’s great fit on Instagram, with the alteration, I contacted Coco at Naughty Bobbin Patterns who provided me with instructions on how to do the same.

Naughty Bobbin Presto Pullover top

The fit this time around is so much better than it was the first time! This is a very simple pattern in term of the number of pieces and the construction, so I am very pleased that I’ll now be able to add it to my TNT collection.

Naughty Bobbin Presto Pullover top

The front is cut twice, so is self lined, and the height of the centre front neckline depends on how far up you sew the two fronts together before flipping them. In these photos you can tell that I should have sewn them up a little bit higher. On my body proportions the neckline has a fold line which vanishes if I pin it an inch higher. That’s probably partly caused by my lower left shoulder – like many people who are right handed and use a computer and mouse for a significant period of time, my right shoulder tends to get higher and higher with muscle tension.

Naughty Bobbin Presto Pullover top

I bought the fabric from a Facebook seller. It’s a synthetic probably polyester spandex blend, and has the right sort of drape and feel for this top. It’s fairly lightweight, so works well with a doubled front. Size wise I did the Medium but completely removed all waist shaping so that it essentially had straight side seams. And of course, I did the high rounded back alteration.

Naughty Bobbin Presto Pullover top

Coco describes this pattern as follows: The Presto! Popover Top is designed specifically for knits for the wash and wearability your daily life needs.  Knits with 5% or more stretch, especially ITY knits and rayon/elastane come in all colors and patterns, so make more than one and get on with your life.  Good bye washday blues!  With it’s clever double-front V-neck collar construction and the always comfy 3/4 sleeve the Presto! sews up quickly on the serger, but can be made on a zig-zag machine, too.  Can be made in heavier knits for winter, lighter knits for summer. Excellent choice for sheerer knits.

prestopopovertoplinedrawing

Other than the seam for the centre fronts, which was sewn on the sewing machine, I constructed the rest of this top entirely on the overlocker.  Hems were finished with a twin needle after securing with Vliesofix tape.

Naughty Bobbin Presto Pullover top

adult's clothing, sewing

Vogue 9057 – definitely a TNT

I first sewed Vogue 9057 in 2016, after doing a Tilton sisters’ knit top class on Craftsy, and I still enjoy wearing tops sewn from this pattern.  My sewing during this pandemic has all been ‘easy’ things so far – patterns that I have used before and are straightforward to cut and construct.  Very calming.

Vogue 9057 in textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I bought the last of the bolt of this textured knit at Darn Cheap Fabrics a few months ago. I really do like texture in fabrics! After spending some time trying to decide which side would be the right side and which side would be the wrong side, I spent a couple of hours cutting and sewing view D with the longer sleeves from views A/B.

Vogue 9057 in textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I sewed the Medium (even though I measure the Large). Remember to check the finished garment measurements and select size according to your own measurements while taking your ease preferences into account. I have also shortened this pattern through the body about an inch and a half. The neckband length was determined via Gillian’s fool-proof neckband method.

Vogue 9057 in textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I don’t own a coverstitch machine, and decided to finish all the hems with a simple zig-zag. I find that works well on trickier knits, such as ones that are super stretchy or that have texture. I tend to use a twin needle on more stable knits, such as cotton/spandex blends. With a zig-zag I can sew a hem from the wrong side and make sure that the left stitch of the zig-zag is just off the raw folded edge. It gives a super neat finish on the inside, without added bulk. I actually hemmed this fabric before pressing it – less chance for the textured bits to stretch out. This worked well.

Vogue 9057 in textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I’m likely to wear this with a scarf, as in this photo. This outfit is very much me! If this pattern has been languishing in your stash, I strongly suggest that you pull it out and give it a go.

v9057

In stay-at-home news, we’re all working and schooling from home.  The kids really miss their friends, and it tears at my heart.  There is enough academic content for them to get through, but so much else of school is missing.  I’m finding it all pretty tough at the moment, but don’t question the necessity.  We’ve done really well in Australia at keeping the infection rates low, especially through the distancing measures that were introduced over a month ago now.  And there are upsides of the stay-at-home measures – no travel time whatsoever, and opportunity for family to connect.  We’ve now watched all three ‘Lord Of the Rings’ movies! Although with school holidays over I feel almost as busy as before.  I’m missing the cleaner too.  Such first world issues.

Vogue 9057 in textured knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Always another Mandy

So many Mandy boat tees.  At a rough count the number I have sewn is well into double figures.  It’s a simple shape that I return to over and over.

Tessuti Mandy tee

I am now using the updated version of this (still free) pattern. When it was originally released it was a ‘one size fits all’ pattern. It now comes in four sizes, ranging from XXS to XXXL, with a three quarter length and a full length sleeve option. I think that the sleeves are now slightly roomier than they were in the first rendition.

Tessuti Mandy tee

I fall between the size 2 and size 3 according to my measurements, but really when you’re choosing a size for this pattern, it’s very much about your style preferences. I really like the wide loose body with fitted sleeves, so overlaid the original pattern on the new one and decided to go with size 3. I’m happy with that choice.

Tessuti Mandy tee

Of course, as with many successful garments, it’s about getting the fabric choice right for the intended silhouette. This knit (I found it at Restash earlier in the year) is perfect. It’s really soft, quite stretchy, and drapes beautifully. I’ve sewn Mandy tees in a few fabrics now and the ones that have been nicest to wear have been those in fabrics that stretch well in both directions (especially for sleeve comfort).

Tessuti Mandy tee

I did what I often do with the leftovers, and sewed them into a tube for a simple scarf/cowl that I can wear with the tee to add a fraction more neck warmth and a change of style when desired.

Tessuti Mandy tee

It’s Easter Monday here – what a different Easter it’s been.  The kids had the fun of our usual egg hunt yesterday, which is always entertaining to watch, but otherwise the four days have been so different to usual.  Easter has usually been about family for us, mostly in a relaxed country setting.  Everything over the last month is full of contradictions – familiar, yet unfamiliar.  At the moment we’re focusing more on what we can do and the blessings of our lives than what we currently can’t do and are missing out on.  But that focus changes.  Anyway, it’s back to work for me tomorrow, and back to school for the kids on Wednesday (edited to add: both work and school are from home for the foreseeable future as per the stay-at-home guidelines in Victoria).  I’ve enjoyed getting sewing and craft projects done, and we’ve also managed to complete a few of those household tasks that get put off for ages but don’t end up taking long to do.  We’ve watched loads of Netflix and Stan.  When you don’t have to go anywhere for anything, there’s much more available time at home for both doing and simply being.  The days are going quickly yet the weeks are taking forever.  It’s a very strange time.

adult's clothing, sewing

Another Style Arc Abigail

It’s currently the second week of school holidays in Victoria (which is how I’m managing to get some sewing and crafting done).  Dan is working from home – he’s all set up in the garage, to avoid interruptions to his many video conferences.  I’m also set up to work from home.  I’m only doing a few hours of work each week of the school holidays, then I go back up to 24 hours per week from home once the school term goes back.  And I’m feeling anxious.  Anxious about how I’m going to juggle the time, and especially the headspace and motivation, to do good quality work while also supervising and supporting my daughters as they do school online for all of term two (at least).  We acknowledge that we’re incredibly lucky to be in the position of being able to convert to completely working from home, and still be earning our usual incomes, but we still have stresses associated with the current situation.  I’m so glad that indications are that we’re ‘flattening the curve’ here in Victoria and the rest of Australia, but we all know that it’s very early days.

I’m sad for both of my daughters too.  Clare’s final year of school is nothing like what we’d imagined.  She’ll now be doing assessments/exams at the time she thought she’d be celebrating with friends at the beach.  So many things missed – 18th birthdays, final school production, the list goes on and on for the class of 2020.  And for Stella, she’d only just started high school.  Friendships were just forming, and now we’ll be right back at the beginning.  I haven’t even met her teachers yet as parent-teacher interviews were cancelled.  I know these things are minor in the bigger picture, but sometimes I just want to cry.  Yet once again we’re lucky – the school already has Google classrooms set up and uses laptops across the board, so I know that they’ll still be learning and connecting.

So I’m making the most of the school holidays to sew up some patterns for easy, comfortable clothes.  Patterns I’ve used before, so nothing too challenging for my poor overcrowded brain.

Style Arc Abigail knit top in visose jersey from Tessuti Fabrics

This is possibly the fourth time I’ve sewed the Style Arc Abigail knit top. Size 12, no alterations. The fabric is viscose jersey that I snaffled from the Tessuti Fabrics remnants table late last year.

Style Arc Abigail knit top in visose jersey from Tessuti Fabrics

The pattern is designed to have an attached neck band, but I have never included that pattern piece. I think it’s just great as a V-neck top. The slight swing shape is perfect for my body, and the centre front seam makes it very straightforward to get a lovely V neckline.

Style Arc Abigail knit top in visose jersey from Tessuti Fabrics

Construction is straightforward. Shoulder seams sew first, then the neckline is finished. A straight strip is sewn to it, right sides together, and I keep a little tension on the strip as I sew (especially around the curvier parts of the neckline). Then press the seam allowances toward the strip, turn it to the inside, tucking the raw edge underneath, then topstitch it in place. Then you can do the centre front seam on the sewing machine, with judicious pinning to ensure that it lines up perfectly at the neckline. The rest of the construction is on the overlocker.

Style Arc Abigail knit top in visose jersey from Tessuti Fabrics

The Style Arc website says: This fashionable top can be made with or without the choker neck band. The swing silhouette makes this top stylish but easy to wear. The neck band is a current fashion trend but if you prefer a “V” neck top just leave out the neck band. Long or short sleeves? It’s your choice on this style. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit jersey or baby wool.

abigail-top

I hemmed the sleeves and the bottom of the top with a zig-zag stitch.  I often find this works better on softer, stretchier knits as it doesn’t ‘tunnel’ or stretch them out like a twin needle can.  I used vliesofix tape to secure the sleeve hems, but for the body I just turned it under and stitched.

Style Arc Abigail knit top in visose jersey from Tessuti Fabrics

I’m rapidly developing ‘isolation hair’, as I was due for a haircut the week before we went into stay at home mode, so did a quick google for ‘twisted headband tutorials’ and sewed up a headband from the scraps. There are a multitude of tutorials for doing this – YouTube, blogs, etc. Just pick one that resonates best with how you like to do things (and make sure that you choose the right size – you don’t want to accidentally make one for a baby when it’s intended for an adult). Clare quickly snaffled up the one I made.

twisted headband

I reckon I might need to start sewing one of these each time that I make something from a knit. Although I also think that it’s best that I leave them to my daughters.

twisted headband

While searching for headband tutorials I also found a terrific one on YouTube to make a turban style cap. That’s much more my style than the headband! Maybe later today (after I finish those few hours of paid work).

 

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat

There is no clear explanation as to why some patterns get purchased and sewn up very quickly and others don’t.  Style Arc released the Portsea Luxe Sweat pattern at the beginning of this month.  A day later I had it purchased, printed, taped, cut out, sewn, and worn.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

Style Arc describe this pattern as follows: This rolled cuff short sleeve sweat is perfect for Spring days but also perfect for layering for cooler temperatures. Slightly oversized fit with a square shape, hi-low hemline and side splits. The lux top is ideal for all occasions. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Fleece, unbrushed fleece or sweater knit.

portsea-luxe-sweat

I had some leftover Clear It french terry from when I sewed my Style Arc Brooklyn knit pants. There was just enough to eke out the pieces for this top. I love it when that happens!

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

This fabric was pretty thick, and I had to cut it out single layer (maybe my recent scissor sharpening wasn’t quite as effective as I’d hoped). It sews up nicely. It was mostly constructed on the sewing machine to facilitate topstitch seams that were pressed open, such as the front ‘sleeve’ seam and the shoulder seams. I overlocked other seam allowances together, and topstitched them down both as a detail and for structure.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

The print on this fabric really cracks me up. Poison bottles! I only bought it because it was cheap and I thought it would be useful for muslins, and have discovered that it actually makes me smile and it’s a great fabric to wear.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

Now I need to talk about the cuffs. The pattern is designed with a folded cuff, which is sewn to the sleeves then the side seams are sewn right up to the cuff edge, sandwiching the fold. In this thickish fabric it meant that I sewed through multiple layers, which was tough to do, and leaves plenty of bulk along that side seam. In future I would construct this differently. I would leave attaching the cuffs until last, after the side seams are sewn. The cuffs would also then be sewn into a ring, then attached, then folded back. This would reduce bulk enormously, and allow for the cuffs to be worn folded as designed, or unfolded.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

I sewed size 12, which is my usual Style Arc top/dress size. It’s a roomy style – designed that way – and I’m happy with the fit. It’s a bit cropped at the front, with a longer back, and side seam splits.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

I happily wore this over a cami on warmer days last week, then layered over a long sleeved tee on subsequent days. It really is a terrific layering piece, especially in these times where ‘stretchywear’ is what I’m reaching for each day. I’ll ferret through my stash to see if I have any appropriate fabric in a solid to sew another one. I’d like to try it in something a little drapier and slightly lighter weight. Just a bit.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

Style Arc have an Easter sale on at the moment and this pattern is one of this month’s freebies, so if you’re interested, now is the time!

patchwork, Sue Ross Block of the Month

Sue Ross BOM quilt top finally finished!

Some of you have been reading my blog for a really long time (I started it when I was pregnant with Stella – actually, my 13 year bloggiversary was in February).  You might remember that in the early days I did quite a bit of patchwork and quilting; that’s actually how I got into blogging in the first place.  I discovered Heather Bailey’s blog, asked a friend to show me how to do patchwork, then off I went!  After a couple of years I reverted mostly to garment sewing (my first love) but every now and then it’s fun to go back to cutting big bits of fabric into little pieces then sewing them back up into another big bit again.

Sue Ross BOM - cutting the setting strips

In 2009 (yes, you read that correctly) I started a Block Of the Month (BOM) project by Sue Ross, done in conjunction with Material Obsession. They sent me the pattern, templates and fabrics each month, and I constructed the block. I have to say right at the outset that this project was WAY above my skill set. Nevertheless I plugged away at it and eventually ended up with nine blocks, using a mixture of piecing and applique. I then cut out the setting strips that you see in the photo above, folded up all the pieces and set them aside some time in 2011. Last week I finally pulled them out and assembled the quilt top.

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

First of all I assembled the strips into log cabin blocks. Each of these blocks then needed to be cut diagonally into four triangles.

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Once again, I warn the ‘real’ quilters who read my blog not to look too closely.  I tend to iron more than press; things are stretched out of shape, and points don’t all line up and match properly.  But aren’t those fabrics pretty!  Anyway, after I cut these blocks into triangles, I sewed the triangles on to each of the blocks that I had prepared earlier.  Remember, there are nine of these!  Lots of photos ahead!

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Each of those blocks is around 26 inches wide – so larger than you probably imagine when seeing them on a screen! Once they were all sewn together, I had a quilt top! Tada!

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

I am ridiculously pleased with this quilt top, despite it’s imperfections. I have noticed that there are a couple of bits of applique that still need to be secured, but I might do that when it’s quilted. I am still tossing up the next stage – it needs backing, wadding, basting, quilting and binding. I’d really like to do most of that myself, other than the basting part, but might also get it quilted. I figure that I’ll have enough fabric in stash to piece together for the backing. Stella is keen for me to get this finished; she also has visions of snuggling under it on the couch when watching telly and is especially pleased that it’s large enough for her sister as well.

Sue Ross BOM 2009 Material Obsession quilt top

While I think about what to do with this quilt top, I have a few other quilts that need to be finished off (the tops are done and they need to be turned into quilts). I’ll do the smaller ones myself, but will probably send out the larger ones. Looks like this winter will be a great time to finish off the UFOs!

crochet

Fishermen’s Scarf

In many ways, the current stay at home situation is easier for those of us who have hobbies, especially if those hobbies are usually done at home.  As you know, I generally sew clothes (rather a lot of them).  But when the covid-19 situation first intensified, I couldn’t focus enough to sew.  (I haven’t been able to focus enough to read a book either, but I hope that changes soon – I have many piles of books waiting for me).  What I really needed was something repetitious that kept my hands (and mind) occupied while I watched Buffy/Angel with Clare.

Fishermans Scarf in Noro Kureyon Sock

A couple of years ago I sorted through my yarn stash, and gave a lot of it to Mum to keep for herself or to redistribute to charity knitting groups in her local area. But I didn’t get rid of everything – there’s still a tub (or two) left. I pulled out a skein of Noro Kureyon Sock yarn, found my crochet hooks, and trawled Ravelry for a pattern.

Fishermans Scarf in Noro Kureyon Sock

I wanted something that was more interesting than just doing rows of hdc or dc, but that was pretty much a single row stitch, without a right and wrong side. I happened up on The Fishermen’s Scarf by Mark Roseboom, a free pattern that’s available in multiple languages.

Fishermans Scarf in Noro Kureyon Sock

I didn’t make my scarf as wide as the pattern, not that I can remember how many chains I started with. I knew that I only had the single skein of yarn to work with and wanted to ensure that my scarf would have adequate length to wrap right around. To do this it needed to be narrower.

Fishermans Scarf in Noro Kureyon Sock

This is one of those situations where the yarn does most of the work for you. The colour changes that are built into it add interest and work well with the texture created by the stitch pattern.

Fishermans Scarf in Noro Kureyon Sock

I’d like to try this stitch again in a longer and wider version. It’s lovely and squishy, and a great scarf design for everyone. It also got me hooking again – I’ve got another scarf half finished, worked on a test for a crocheted hat, and have almost finished edging 24 crochet squares in readiness to join them into a rug.

adult's clothing, George and Ginger, sewing, teen

Teen Spirit top

When we were in Borneo Clare bought a cropped sweatshirt.  It is fairly lightweight, so perfect for inbetween weather.   She’s been wearing it a lot, so I offered to sew her something similar.  This was made and photographed at the beginning of March.

George and Ginger Teen Spirit top

This pattern is the Teen Spirit Top, by George and Ginger. I love that their multi-sized patterns start at small sizes (tween 12 and 14 then adult XXS) which makes sewing for my daughters much easier.

photo_feb_02_11_04_57_am_740x

We chose to sew the long sleeved, cropped length and I narrowed the neckline. I added bands to the sleeves and the hem to tie them in with the neckband.

George and Ginger Teen Spirit top

The fabric is a knit from the Rathdowne Fabrics remnant bin. It’s actually fairly stable, without much stretch at all, and has a bit of a slub effect. Heavier weight than jersey, lighter weight than sweatshirting.

George and Ginger Teen Spirit top

Current teen fashions are SO late 80s / early 90s! I look at some of Clare’s outfits and then describe to her almost identical onces that I wore back in the day. She wishes that I’d held on to a few of them. I have kept most of my late 80s / early 90s formal wear, but not the everyday stuff.  She’s especially sad that I didn’t hold on to my nubuck Doc Martens (my excuse is that they were trashed after a year of backpacking).

George and Ginger Teen Spirit top

I added a little label from Kylie and the Machine to the side seam, which really tickled Clare’s fancy! I think that I also added one inside that says ‘this is the back’.

George and Ginger Teen Spirit top

As you can imagine, this was an extremely straightforward garment to cut out and sew. Adding the bands made for very simple finishing. I pressed them all toward the body of the garment then topstitched to keep the seam allowances in place and add a tiny bit of detail. And that was it! Sometimes the very simple projects are just as satisfying as the very complex ones – it’s all about meeting the brief.

George and Ginger Teen Spirit top