Yes, it’s another Marcy Tilton pattern success!  May I present my version of Vogue 8620.

This is a jacket that’s been quite a while in the making. I don’t think that the pattern is in print any more – if you want to sew it, track it down fast on eBay or etsy or similar! The oldest review of this pattern on Pattern Review is from 2009, so I figure that’s when it was published.

I haven’t had the pattern in my stash for quite that long, but it’s still taken me a while to sew it up. I think that I was waiting for the right fabric. This textured stretch woven from Super Cheap Fabrics pretty much sang to me, wanting to become this jacket. And yes, it’s the same fabric that I made Misty jeans from a couple of blog posts ago!

I don’t really plan to wear these two pieces together, but hey, I suppose that I could! So, back to the jacket. There are lots of pieces in this jacket; it’s not a quick sew. This year I’ve slowed down quite a lot in my sewing anyway, particularly enjoying something that I can take my time on. It’s unlined, and I finished many of the interior seam allowances with bias cut binding.

One of the challenges in making this jacket in this fabric was sourcing a matching zip. I really didn’t want to contrast – this colour is dramatic enough without adding extra details like a contrasting zip! Someone put me on to Australian Zipper Industries P/L just a couple of suburbs away. I took in my fabric, told them what type of zip I was after, and the helpful saleswoman found just the right chunky open-ended zipper for me! Although they are wholesalers they were happy to sell me one zip – for only $3. That’s service!

I alternated orange and red threads in the overlocker needles and loopers to give a colour that approximated the rust/orange/brown/red fabric. I was able to find a good Gutermann thread match for the construction and topstitching, fortunately.  I’ve taken these photos outside in natural light to try and get the colour as accurate as possible.

The pattern envelope describes this jacket as follows: Semi-fitted jackets A, B have pockets, underarm gussets and front zipper closure. B: silk-screened embellishments. Package includes Marcy Tilton’s instructions for silk-screening.

Size-wise, I think that I sewed size 14.  Marcy Tilton patterns often have generous ease, but I was fortunate to have read plenty of reviews, so knew that this one was actually a bit more fitted.  I didn’t make any alterations to the pattern.  Looking at the pattern cover and line drawings I am probably not meant to have the cuffs turned back quite so much, but they work for me as worn.

As I said earlier, I took my time sewing this.  I followed the instructions, thought about them, and generally enjoyed the process.  I’m highly satisfied with the results. This is a garment that feels very much like me.

Style Arc Fifi and Style Arc Vicki are both patterns that I’ve sewn before.  It’s always a good sign when I use a pattern more than once!

Maybe I’ll start with the Fifi pants! It’s not long since I sewed my first pair. I learned from that experience and cut off the pattern at the ‘cropped’ length. Which you can tell isn’t all that cropped on me.

The front waistband is flat, and the pocket curve aligns with the waistband seamlines.

At the back there is wide elastic stitched to the inside of the waistband using a zig-zag stitch. I used pretty wide elastic – maybe a couple of inches? – and because I don’t have much difference between my hip and waist measurements, this means that the pants fit me without much bulky gathering at the back. The darts at the back also provide nice shaping.

I sewed these in linen, primarily on the sewing machine with the overlocker being used to finish seam allowances. I think that this is a wonderful wide leg pant pattern for me. By the way, this is size 12. So, on to the Vicki top.

I have sewn this in linen in size 12, and found it just a fraction too tight across the bust. This time I reprinted and cut size 14, and I reckon that the fit is just right.

The fabric is a textured cotton pique remnant that I picked up from The Cloth Shop. There was just enough of it for me to eke out the top, with a little bit of off-grain cutting. One of the things that I really like about this pattern is that the front pieces wrap across the shoulders to join the back with a nice angled yoke detail.

I chose to topstitch the angled seams to stabilise them a bit and to add detail. It’s easy to get a nice crisp front V neckline with this pattern too as the neckline is bound and finished before the centre front seam is sewn.

This is a pretty short top – I’m very short-waisted and it’s still not all that long on me. I think that this length works nicely with wide leg pants; it keeps the proportions more visually pleasing. In real life it looks better than it does in these slightly foreshortened photos. If you’re tall you might want to add some length. I’ve often considering lengthening this top into a summer dress too.

Style Arc Fifi woven pant: Pull-on pant sewing pattern with a smooth front yoke, elastic back and side pockets. This new wide leg pant pattern gives you the option of 7/8th or full length. The Fifi Woven Pant is a simple pant to sew that will give you a sophisticated look. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Pull-on wide leg pant sewing pattern for woven fabrics.

Style Arc Vicki top: This fashionable swing top looks great worn with your crop pants. The “V” neck and Interesting back yoke treatment adds interest and sets this apart from a basic top. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Crepe, Silk, Cotton or Scuba.

Oh Style Arc Misty, you are most definitely my favourite stretch jeans pattern.  I’ve tried others that I quite like, but I always return to you.

This time around I’ve sewn the Misty jeans in a textured stretch jacquard woven that I found at Super Cheap Fabrics. I bought all that was on the roll. It’s substantial, yet has loads of stretch.

I’m pretty sure that these are size 10, which works for my hip measurement and comparatively small thighs. My waist is about size 16, but the stretch in the fabric and the elastic waist takes care of that. Speaking of the elastic waist, as designed the pattern has wide exposed elastic around the waist. I always enclose it in a tube of the same fabric instead. If my fabric had less stretch I’d need to go up a size in this pattern (as learned the hard way in the past).

Because the fabric is textured I dispensed with fancy topstitching on the back pockets. I also leave off the fake front pockets, although I do sew the faux front fly. Style Arc describe this pattern as follows: Want the look of a slim jean and comfort as well? Then this is the pant for you, this style has all the features of a jean, slim cut leg, mock fly, front pockets, back yoke and jean back pockets. The treatment of the elastic waistband makes this a fantastic pant to have in your wardrobe. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Stretch denim or any stretch woven fabric with 3% spandex is suitable.

There’s not much more to say about this pattern! I mostly use the overlocker for construction, swapping to the machine where necessary and using a twin needle to secure the leg hems. I have shortened the pattern pieces by taking a small fold out both above and below the knee, which keeps the proportions pretty much right for me.

Oh Hot Patterns, enough with the super long names!  This is technically called the Metropolitan Chimera Cardigan-Jacket-Vest.  What a mouthful.

From the Hot Patterns website: Finish any simple outfit with these chic pieces,
designed for heavier, stable knits with a little stretch like ponte, sweatshirting, even fleece.

For a statement look try using a non-stretch firm fabric like denim, brocade, beaded or embroidered fabrics, even real or faux suede, faux fur or (p)leather for the center fronts.

Semi-fitted styles have panel seams plus ‘Dior’ darts. Edge-to-edge front has optional hook & eye closure and a slim shawl collar. Try the sleevesless vest, or choose between a long or elbow length sleeve, then select your perfect length, either mid thigh or cropped at the hip. Tie belt, pockets, or faux pocket flaps and contrast collar are optional.

You’ll rock these versatile pieces from Fall through Spring: wear any of them to instantly elevate a simple blouse & skirt outfit, a low-key shift-dress, or a T-shirt & jeans combo.

There are a few Hot Patterns in my stash nowadays, and I’ve sewn up a few of them with varying degrees of success.  I really like that they are current designs (many are potentially ahead of their time) but I often have trouble when I go to sew them up.  I’ve had issues with printing them in the past, sometimes the pattern pieces don’t line up properly (that was the case for a couple of pieces in this pattern) and there are often insufficient markings.  And as much as I love a line drawing, I’d really like to see some completed garments as well as illustrations.  Hot Patterns have what appears to be a HUGE number of fans over on their facebook page, and they definitely produce a very inclusive size range, but after sewing this jacket I reckon I won’t be buying any more of their patterns for a while (I never say never).  It just wasn’t an enjoyable sew.

I chose to sew the shorter, long-sleeved version of the jacket, and didn’t include pockets or pocket flaps. The fabric I used is a jacquard stretch woven that is actually SUPER stretchy. I have previously sewn a skirt and a pair of pants from the same fabric, and now have used it all up. Most of the construction was fairly straight forward, until it came to the sleeves.

The sleeves are two pieces, which is a lovely piece of drafting but there just weren’t enough pattern notches and markings for me to be certain that I’d put the two pieces together properly – let alone to indicate whether I’d inserted them properly in the armhole! I need those markings! I can cope pretty well with sketchy instructions, but it’s imperative to me that the pattern pieces are well drafted and well marked and fit together perfectly. I really didn’t feel confident that this jacket was going to do that at all.

By the time I finished it, I was actually rather shocked to find that I quite liked it. I topstitched around the collar and hems, and stitched the facings in the ditch along all seams in order to keep everything sitting okay. I was really prepared for this to be an absolute fail. It’s definitely much more neutral than my usual clothing palette, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing!  But as I said – I’m taking a break from Hot Patterns.

Worn with True Bias Sutton blouse in silk, and Style Arc Sage pants in bengaline.  Shoes from Django & Juliette, and glasses from Dresden.