THORNBERRY

Oh Hot Patterns, enough with the super long names!  This is technically called the Metropolitan Chimera Cardigan-Jacket-Vest.  What a mouthful.

From the Hot Patterns website: Finish any simple outfit with these chic pieces,
designed for heavier, stable knits with a little stretch like ponte, sweatshirting, even fleece.

For a statement look try using a non-stretch firm fabric like denim, brocade, beaded or embroidered fabrics, even real or faux suede, faux fur or (p)leather for the center fronts.

Semi-fitted styles have panel seams plus ‘Dior’ darts. Edge-to-edge front has optional hook & eye closure and a slim shawl collar. Try the sleevesless vest, or choose between a long or elbow length sleeve, then select your perfect length, either mid thigh or cropped at the hip. Tie belt, pockets, or faux pocket flaps and contrast collar are optional.

You’ll rock these versatile pieces from Fall through Spring: wear any of them to instantly elevate a simple blouse & skirt outfit, a low-key shift-dress, or a T-shirt & jeans combo.

There are a few Hot Patterns in my stash nowadays, and I’ve sewn up a few of them with varying degrees of success.  I really like that they are current designs (many are potentially ahead of their time) but I often have trouble when I go to sew them up.  I’ve had issues with printing them in the past, sometimes the pattern pieces don’t line up properly (that was the case for a couple of pieces in this pattern) and there are often insufficient markings.  And as much as I love a line drawing, I’d really like to see some completed garments as well as illustrations.  Hot Patterns have what appears to be a HUGE number of fans over on their facebook page, and they definitely produce a very inclusive size range, but after sewing this jacket I reckon I won’t be buying any more of their patterns for a while (I never say never).  It just wasn’t an enjoyable sew.

I chose to sew the shorter, long-sleeved version of the jacket, and didn’t include pockets or pocket flaps. The fabric I used is a jacquard stretch woven that is actually SUPER stretchy. I have previously sewn a skirt and a pair of pants from the same fabric, and now have used it all up. Most of the construction was fairly straight forward, until it came to the sleeves.

The sleeves are two pieces, which is a lovely piece of drafting but there just weren’t enough pattern notches and markings for me to be certain that I’d put the two pieces together properly – let alone to indicate whether I’d inserted them properly in the armhole! I need those markings! I can cope pretty well with sketchy instructions, but it’s imperative to me that the pattern pieces are well drafted and well marked and fit together perfectly. I really didn’t feel confident that this jacket was going to do that at all.

By the time I finished it, I was actually rather shocked to find that I quite liked it. I topstitched around the collar and hems, and stitched the facings in the ditch along all seams in order to keep everything sitting okay. I was really prepared for this to be an absolute fail. It’s definitely much more neutral than my usual clothing palette, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing!  But as I said – I’m taking a break from Hot Patterns.

Worn with True Bias Sutton blouse in silk, and Style Arc Sage pants in bengaline.  Shoes from Django & Juliette, and glasses from Dresden.

Inspired by Alfia’s refashioning class, I took a look at my wardrobe and pulled out a couple of scarves that I’d bought in Thailand.  I wear lots of scarves, but these two hadn’t been getting many outings.  It was time to turn them into something else!

The pattern that I used was a vintage one – Simplicity 8686, which looks pretty 1980s. I am often surprised at how current the 80s patterns are again – as long as the armholes aren’t as deep and shoulders as wide! Otherwise they really do seem to fit with current aesthetics.

I used view 1, the striped version on the pattern cover, and lengthened it considerably. As well as wanting to keep my tummy covered, I wanted to make the most of the scarf fringe. Then I played around with the yoke pieces and the remaining scarf to figure out what layout would work best for it.

The scarves were of quite different weights, and this has affected the way that the top sits, especially at the centre back of the yoke. The yoke scarf is very loosely woven, and it really needed stabilising. I did this by using scraps of the other scarf to make inside bindings for the neckline edge, and also used the more stable scarf for the sleeve cuffs.

This was a really fun experiment, and I am confident that it has resulted in a top that will definitely get summer wear.  It’s definitely worth examining the line drawings of those 80s patterns, as it doesn’t take much to transform them into something that works well now.

A month or so ago (yes, I am that far behind with blogging again) The Cloth Shop in Ivanhoe popped up on Instagram telling us that Alfia Galimova was going to take a class to refashion men’s shirts (into something for women).  I don’t think that I’ve even been as fast to sign up for a class!  I have been following Alfia on Instagram (you can find her at @alfia_designs and @alfia_galimova) and at other places around the internet (such as here).  She’s incredibly talented – her illustrations are as amazing as her clothes – and she definitely has her own unconventional style, which really appeals to me.  She sees details and manipulates fabric in a way that I could never come up with myself.

Alfia brought along a rack of refashioned clothing from her own wardrobe. It was fascinating to examine each piece, seeing how she’d reworked and combined things. Sometimes it was a simple as turning things around and adding a seam or two. (That’s Kim of The Cloth Shop peeking out from behind the rack). Our list of what to bring to class included a large men’s shirt, which was what we’d be refashioning. Clare and I had fun at Vinnies choosing shirts that we thought might work!

Essentially, we were doing to turn the shirt around so that the collar became an armhole. We sliced off the sleeves, used a template for the neckline opening and sleeve placement, cut accordingly, then used one sleeve to add length to the body and the other sleeve to fashion a collar.

Most of the attendees commented on how handy those buttons across the front would be for a breast-feeding mother!  However, most of us did not want to risk the potential of a wardrobe malfunction, so sewed the button placket closed.

I was so excited by my refashioned shirt that I decided to grab a second Vinnies shirt that I’d taken to the class and start turning it into a dress! This time I used a large chambray men’s shirt, and didn’t use the sleeves as I was instead adding some stash fabric for the skirt. I used bias binding to finish the neckline.

I unpicked and moved the front pocket to a more appropriate (and potentially useable) location.  The hem of the shirt was utilised along the edge of one armhole, with the collar as the other armhole.

This dress was actually super fast to make!  It probably took me longer to decide what fabric to use for the skirt than it did to alter the shirt.  On the skirt I utilised the selvage as the hem.  So there you go – some fun refashioning, that is very wearable and definitely a little bit quirky!  Bring on summer!

Alfia opened our eyes to the potential of using garments differently to the ways that we are used to.  To reimagining, reshaping, and generally to experimenting and just seeing how it goes!  What a wonderful class – it definitely took me well out of my comfort zone, but in a very welcome way.

In The Folds released the Rushcutter dress a couple of years ago, and if Instagram is anything to go by it was very popular.  I hesitated, because it was a pdf, and dress pdf patterns take a fair bit of assembly.  Also, I figured that I had lots of patterns for loose dresses.  Fast forward a while, and Emily ran a Kickstarter campaign to get her patterns into print form. I do like to support a fellow Australian in her small business dreams, so I signed up and eventually received a printed copy of the pattern.  And a couple of months later, I sewed it up!

First off, I need to say that this pattern is another big WIN for me. I really love the resulting dress! And yes, it’s a loose dress, but there was enough detail to make it a bit different to sew and much more interesting than the usual. From the website: The Rushcutter is an oversized knee-length, A-line dress, designed for woven fabrics, available in two different styles. The Rushcutter is beautifully designed and carefully drafted to include many interesting details, to make this a very enjoyable sew for sewers at a range of different levels. The pattern comes with fully illustrated instructions to hold your hand every step of the way.

View A features three-quarter length raglan sleeves, large side pockets, invisible zip, bound neckline and a wide hem facing.

View B is a sleeveless version, with back button closure. It features in-seam pockets, with neckline and armholes finished with bias binding. Included in the pattern is an optional waist sash, that is suitable for both styles.

As you can see, I sewed view A.  I chose to sew size F, based on bust measurement.  Waist and hip measurement are fairly irrelevant in this style.  I didn’t make any major alterations to the pattern other than lowering the front neckline an inch.

That beautiful mustardy yellow linen is from The Cloth Shop. It was absolutely divine to work with and to wear. I originally hoped to sew the entire dress from the solid, but I just didn’t have enough of it (one of the perils of buying fabric without a pattern in mind). I tossed up a few options for the sleeves and centre front, and settled on the printed linen blend that was a gift from Anna but I suspect originally from Joy’s in Geelong (now closed). Although the yellow in the print wasn’t the same as the yellow of the solid linen, it still pretty much toned and worked with it.

The pockets are drafted so that they are a little wider than the side panels, and stand away from the rest of the dress. A subtle yet interesting detail, and very easy to sew.

There is a curved seam that joins the bodice to the skirt, and this was also drafted beautifully. Although I didn’t manage to pattern match the print across the centre back seam, I did manage to line up the invisible zip perfectly.

I’m definitely glad that I lowered the front neckline – that’s as high as I want a neckline to be! One of the benefits of sewing a garment well after the pattern is first released is that you can see plenty of examples on other people, and read about anything they’ve changed. The neckline is finished with bias binding sewn like a facing and turned to the inside and topstitched.

I topstitched most of the seamlines for more definition and to provide support and a teensy bit of structure. Linen has a lot of inherent ‘give’, which is one of the reasons that I enjoy wearing it so much. I possibly overstretched it a fraction when easing the skirt to the bodice, as it looks to me as though there’s a little bit of fullness along that seamline that won’t quite press out. Otherwise, I feel that this dress is close to perfect for me! I’m quite happy with the length as drafted (so longer on me than on the average person), and I feel that this dress will get lots of trans-seasonal wear.

As well as the patterns available for sale on the In The Folds website, Emily designs (free) patterns for Peppermint magazine.  These can be found here, and there are plenty of finished examples on Instagram and around the blogs.  After sewing this dress I am impressed with her design and drafting skills.  I’ll definitely be using more of her patterns.

Over the years I have discovered that as much as I love flicking through sewing pattern books, I rarely actually sew any of the garments they contain.  Yes, they’re great value – so many patterns for the price! – but they also require tracing of pattern pieces, often from large sheets with multiple overlapping lines.  Over the years I have also discovered that I am fairly lazy when it comes to tracing patterns.  I just don’t do it.  I have good intentions (Burda and Ottobre magazines, I’m looking at you!) but I very very rarely actually get around to tracing.  And as most of you know, I’m firmly in the cut out the printed pattern camp, even with vintage patterns.  Because I’d made that discovery, I’ve drastically reduced the number of pattern books that I buy.  I am happy to buy books on sewing techniques, but rarely buy one for the patterns.  However, I saw Anna‘s Kinder cardigan and Longshaw skirt, and promptly bought a copy of Wendy Ward‘s book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics.

However, the first garment that I sewed from the book wasn’t either the Kinder cardigan or Longshaw skirt – it was the Derwent trouser!  There was a sewn up sample at The Cloth Shop, (they always have the BEST garment samples) and that was the clincher for me.  Take two pattern pieces, some beautiful medium weight dark green marle viscose ponte, some wide elastic, and voila, a fabulous pair of winter trousers in approximately an hour!

I chose pattern size based on my hip measurement, traced the pattern pieces, adding length after checking how long my current trousers are, then did a full belly alteration to the front pattern piece. This was a straightforward slash and spread, making a cut from the waistline down about six or seven inches then spreading it an inch at the waistline. That added another couple of inches to the front waist and belly area without affecting the bum and hips.

The waist is finished with a wide elastic facing, sewn to the top of the waistline then turned to the inside and secured with stitches through the seamlines. The deep hem was secured with a machine blindstitch. I prefer deep hems on wide leg pants.

In this photo it really looks as though I have a major wedgie, but these have been worn quite a few times and certainly don’t feel that way! I might check the back crotch curve of this pattern against the back crotch curve of my Fifi pants, and compare them. Honestly, if I hadn’t seen this photo I wouldn’t have had any idea.

The top I’m wearing is the Style Arc Kylie top, blogged here. It’s a favourite! However, I want to point out the colour-blocked boiled wool scarf. I sewed it following directions in this tutorial. The boiled wool is from The Cloth Shop. It’s lots of fun choosing colour combinations, and it’s a straightforward sew and very warm to wear. I’ve also sewed a wedgewood blue and grey version that I gave to my sister-in-law for her 60th.

This outfit feels very ‘me’. I find it a bit difficult to choose the right tops to go with wide-legged pants, but this one seems to work.  As always, it’s about getting the proportions right for your body – and feeling comfortable and yourself in the total outfit.