A couple of months ago I blogged about a recently sewn Liesl + Co Gallery tunic.  It didn’t take long until I pulled out the pattern again to sew myself a Gallery dress!

Becaue this wasn’t long after I’d sewn the tunic, I simply had to tape the dress length pieces back on and knew that it would fit. I had already shortened the sleeves an inch or two from the pattern length. I wish that I’d remembered to do that with a subsequent Liesl + Co pattern (that I’ll blog when I eventually get photos) – I think that Liesl must have long arms!

From the pattern page: Relaxed-fit pull-on tunic or dress. The tunic features cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves and a one-piece collar. The dress includes in-seam pockets, button-cuff full-length sleeves, and a band collar. Both versions include an inset front placket with a fun pleated detail, an inverted box pleat at back, and a curved shirttail hem that’s slightly longer in back.

The details are hard to see in this print but I’ll try a few closer photos.

Speaking of the print, the fabric is a fairly crisp cotton/linen blend that came from Super Cheap Fabrics a year (or two) ago. It’s been sitting in my stash waiting for just the right project – you know, one of those fabrics that you pull out thinking you’ll use it, then putting it back again because that project didn’t really do it justice, then repeat the same process? This time I definitely got it right! It’s gives me a definite Zuri vibe.

I do quite like having the side inseam pockets, although as with all dresses, it’s tempting to load them up a little with things that are a bit heavy – cough, mobile phone – and then that pulls everything a bit askew. So far I’ve worn this dress layered over tights and boots, with a fine wool top underneath and a long-line cardi or jacket over the top, but I’m looking forward to styling it differently as the weather warms up and wearing it trans-seasonally. It’s a definite winner in my wardrobe – I suspect that I’ll still be wearing it years later, just like the one I sewed in 2017!

Way back in 2017, I sewed the Liesl + Co Gallery Dress.  I am still wearing that dress, and I still love it.  A couple of months ago I returned to the pattern to sew the tunic length.

It’s pretty clear from the wrinkles in these photos that this time around I sewed the pattern up in linen, and these photos were taken after a few hour of wear! From the pattern website: Relaxed-fit pull-on tunic or dress. The tunic features cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves and a one-piece collar. The dress includes in-seam pockets, button-cuff full-length sleeves, and a band collar. Both versions include an inset front placket with a fun pleated detail, an inverted box pleat at back, and a curved shirttail hem that’s slightly longer in back.

I used the same pattern pieces as last time after cutting the dress length off and leaving out the pockets for the tunic length. I sewed mostly size 12 with size 14 body width. I really like that little inverted pleat at the back neck – it helps a lot with my rounded upper back!

Liesl + Co always has superb instructions and pattern drafting, and this was no exception. Instructions for full bust alterations are included in the pattern. I first came to Liesl’s patterns when I was sewing Oliver + S patterns for my daughters and was very glad when she started releasing adult patterns as well. I’ve noticed that nowadays she only does adult patterns – her daughter is now at university, so I guess that’s why! Her children’s patterns are classics – I have a couple of boxes of outgrown garments that I am keeping for memories.

As you can see, I sewed the full-length sleeves. The cuffs are a slightly unusual construction, without a placket but with a space left that folds up when the cuff is buttoned. I found a couple of buttons in stash that worked well enough with the colour of the fabric. I hand-stitched the collar band in place on the inside. I’ve discovered that although I don’t tend to wear ‘classic’ shirts with a traditional collar on a stand or even a camp collar, I do quite like a collar stand on it’s own.  This is a very non-fussy garment to wear – pull it on and go!

Because this pattern was released years ago, there are plenty of examples of it in Flickr groups, on Instagram, and on blogs. I even found a tutorial for it on YouTube. I have some more fabric earmarked for another tunic – although maybe another dress will take priority! In these photos I am wearing the tunic with Vado non-stretch denim jeans that I sewed back in 2016. I wasn’t thrilled about these jeans at the time, but they were beautifully made so I kept them through various size fluctuations. They fit me again at the moment and I am wearing them heaps!

Gee, Liesl Gibson is an excellent pattern designer.  I first came across her patterns through the Oliver + S line of children’s patterns.  It’s some years now since I’ve sewn them for my daughters; fortunately she also designs for adults!  As well as the Lisette line sold through Butterick, there are Liesl + Co patterns.  I’ve sewn a few of them over the years.  They are often quite classic in style and are always impecably drafted with very clear instructions, and are generally available in both pdf and hard copy.

This is the Yanaka jacket. From the pattern page: A cross between a blazer and a cardigan, this chic, unlined jacket is semifitted, slightly cropped, and includes several unique features: a cutaway silhouette, cut-on sleeves, a sleeve gusset for better movement and fit, and a gentle stand-up collar. With no set-in sleeve and no closures, this style is fun and easy to sew as well as versatile to wear. The cut-out V-notch at the back hem adds a little extra style, and the pattern is great for color blocking. This style includes cup sizes with added bust darts for C and D cups to help you get a perfect fit. Suggested Fabrics: This pattern works best with medium- to heavyweight woven fabrics like denim, canvas, wool coating, jacquard, brocade, and bonded fabrics.

Once again, this was really a wearable muslin. I wasn’t at all sure how this type of jacket would fit with the rest of my style, but hoped that it would be a shape that might be a good ‘smart casual’ piece for my work wardrobe. The fabric is a textured stretch bengaline from Super Cheap Fabrics. I have enough left for a pair of pants – I wonder if I can rock a white suit?

This is size 12 with the C cup front, no other alterations. It’s an unlined jacket, but the collar and facing is interfaced. I chose to machine stitch the facings in place rather than hand-sew them as per the instructions, mostly because of the fabric that I was using. If I sewed this in wool or similar I would probably hand sew. I also chose to finish seam allowances with overlocking rather than binding them. Once again, that was mostly because of fabric choice.

The collar really does stand up beautifully! I’ll give this pattern another whirl in a heavier fabric, and suspect that it’s a pattern that will be used multiple times in the years ahead.

I rather like the serendipity of having sewn the Liesl and Co Weekend Getaway Blouse on a weekend getaway (Sewjourn, of course).

I’ve actually sewn this blouse a couple of times before, but both times in the short sleeeved version. It was time to sew one for cooler weather. The fabric came to me via Restash, and it feels like a barkcloth. Definitely medium weight.

Because I’ve sewn it before the pattern pieces were already printed, assembled and cut out. This top was a skerrick too small when it was first sewn up; a combination between my weight gain and the fabric weight. Fortunately I was able to let it out through the side seams. Thank goodness for 5/8″ seam allowances! EDIT – they’re actually 1/2″ seam allowances!  That might help to explain things…..

The front collar and pleats are actually very easy to construct, although I remember that I managed to sew it on the reverse side the first time around – habit of putting right sides together seemed to override following the instructions! Speaking of instructions, as with all Liesl and Co patterns they are excellent, as is the pattern drafting.

From the pattern website: This pull-on blouse or dress is perfect to wear any day and anywhere. With a relaxed fit and a flattering V-neck, the pattern features kimono-style sleeves (meaning no sleeves to set-in) and no closures, making it very easy to sew. The blouse is designed with short sleeves. The dress includes cuffed, 3/4-length sleeves and tabbed pockets. The front facing provides an opportunity to use a fun contrasting or complimentary fabric. Suggested Fabrics: This pattern works best with drapey fabrics like lawn, voile, rayon, silk charmeuse or crepe de chine, satin, and open-weave linen.

The simple 3/4 length sleeve allows for turning back into a cuff. This is a blouse that can be worn in most situation, depending on the type of fabric that you use. Definitely worth having in the collection.

I love the name of this tee – it really does just roll off the tongue!

I sewed up the Liesl + Co Chai Tee shortly after release. All of Liesl Gibson’s patterns are beautifully drafted with excellent instructions, and this pattern was no exception. From the website: This simple and stylish pull-on top is much more than a basic tee. It has an easy fit and is as comfortable to wear as your favorite T-shirt, but it brings a touch of elegance to every day with its shoulder yokes and pleats and its feminine shaping. Leave the sleeves uncuffed (View A) or stitch the cuffs in place to secure them (View B). The pattern comes with separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cup sizes to help you make a great fitting shirt. Suggested Fabrics: Designed for lightweight cotton knit fabric with moderate stretch. This tee can also be sewn from drapey woven fabrics, but you may need to go up a size or two for a good fit.

I sewed this striped version in cotton/lycra from Crafty Mamas Fabrics. This is a quality fabric with loads of recovery but not masses of drape. It was interesting to compare the fit of my tee to that on the model on the website. The neckline ended up much smaller on my tee – which isn’t a criticism either way, more an observation about how fabric choices affect fit.

The shoulder yokes are cut double, and they enclose most of the associated seams. The neckline is bound, rather than having a band added. The little pleats at the shoulder add some nice detail and improve fit across the bust. I folded the pleats as per the instructions for this tee.

Size wise, this tee is a mash-up to accommodate my belly. I chose to sew the C cup version – don’t you love it when pattern pieces are provided with FBA already built in? – in size Medium, graded up to XL through the waist and back to the Medium for the hips. Basically, this meant that I removed all of the waist shaping!

As it turned out, one Chai Tee simply wasn’t enough! I really wanted to see how this pattern would work in a drapier fabric, and as it turned out I had this printed viscose/spandex remnant from The Cloth Shop handy. There was just enough of it to make the tee by combining it with a solid black viscose/spandex for the shoulder yokes and neckband.

This is exactly the same size as the striped version. You can see that it drapes differently on me, and the neckline is a little larger. This time around I folded the shoulder pleats the other way (contrary to the instructions) and I’ve decided that I actually prefer it.

Most construction was on the overlocker, with the sewing machine used judiciously for topstitching and for attaching the neckline binding. I used a twin needle to hem the bottom of the top after securing the hemline with double sided fusible tape. The sleeves don’t require hemming, as they are cut double with the hemline on the fold.  This is the pattern length as drafted, so it’s fairly long (I’m 158cm tall).

This is a lovely pattern – that step up from a basic tee. In the right fabric it is definitely a great summer office top, and it’s a nicer version of casual.  There is also a sewalong for its construction on the Liesl + Co blog.  Highly recommended.

Lately I have sewn a few garments that I complete, try on, then think YES!  Do you know what I mean?  This is one of those garments.  Something that feels just right – in fabric choice, in pattern choice, in the combination of the two, in fit, and in meeting my style.

The Liesl + Co. Gallery dress pattern has been in my stash for a while. I’ve seen lots of versions that I rather like, but also a lot that look to me a bit like grandpa’s nightshirt. I think that fabric choice is vital when sewing this pattern – especially if you are sewing the dress rather than the tunic.

From the pattern website: Relaxed-fit pull-on tunic (View A) or dress (View B). The tunic features cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves and a one-piece collar. The dress includes in-seam pockets, button-cuff full-length sleeves, and a band collar. Both versions include an inset front placket with a fun pleated detail, an inverted box pleat at back, and a curved shirttail hem that’s slightly longer in back. Effortless and feminine, this flattering classic-but-contemporary piece can take on many different looks depending on how you style it. And, really, isn’t that the fun part?  Suitable for drapey or lightweight woven fabric such as sateen, double gauze, shirting, voile, lawn, rayon, and silk.

The fabric is hand-woven cotton that I bought in Chiang Mai in January.  It’s a medium weight, so I decided to sew view B as illustrated with the long sleeves and band collar so that I could wear the dress now with layers underneath and over it and in Spring and Autumn without.  I love the variations in colour through the fabric as well as the textural qualities of the stripes.

As with all patterns from Liesl Gibson (her brands include Oliver + S and Lisette patterns for Butterick) it is beautifully drafted and the instructions are superb. I think they have the perfect amount of illustration and text, and find that they always have a lovely finish. I think that I sewed size 12 with size 14 body width, but need to double check that to be certain. I could possibly have gone down a size.

This was an enjoyable garment to sew. Construction was on the sewing machine. I finished the edges on the overlocker, but otherwise it didn’t get much use! It was a slower sew than many of my clothes, which was a very pleasant change. I really wanted to get all of the details right, so didn’t rush anything. I don’t deliberately rush as a general rule, but I am a pretty fast sewer. This dress had no deadlines hanging over it, so I took my time. There was even hand-stitching involved to secure the neck band!

The buttons on the sleeve cuffs are also from Chiang Mai. I think they work perfectly with this fabric! The sleeve cuff isn’t a traditional one with a placket. Rather, the cuff is attached to the sleeve with a “gap” that then becomes part of a fold when the cuff is buttoned to close it. I don’t actually need to undo the buttons to get the dress on and off (small hands).

There are in-seam pockets in the side seams, and the back hemline is longer than the front. I did take a fold out of the pattern to shorten it about an inch and a half before I cut it out. It’s still a bit longer than I would often prefer to wear, but not significantly so. The neckband and placket instructions are excellent and the end product is very neat.

I’ve already worn this dress a few times, and have felt terrific in it each time. It’s definitely a YAY garment for me. I will possibly sew it again with the three quarter length sleeve in a lighter weight fabric for warmer weather.

Right, another repeat.  This is my second go at the Grainline Morris blazer and my third at the Liesl + Co Maritime tee.

I really went against my own advice on this one and used an even drapier knit for the Morris than last time. But I knew to stitch down those facings to prevent the front from sagging! The fabric is a textured poly knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I used a khaki version of the same fabric in a Linden earlier and have noticed that Emma has sewn up the fuchsia into a top as well.

This time I added an inch to the length of the sleeves to make them full length. There were no other alterations. I overlocked around the edge of the facing rather than turning it under as per the pattern instructions, and machine stitched it into place right around the entire jacket. There is still the same turn of cloth issue under the back neck, because I was too lazy to fix it, but it isn’t a big deal when wearing. This was mostly constructed on the overlocker, other than the topstitching and neck/shoulder seams.

In these end-of-work-day photos I can see that the jacket is grabbing a bit above the bust and folds are forming. I suspect that is a fabric issue more than a fit issue in this case. There was enough ease in this jacket to really not need a FBA for a C cup! So, on to the Liesl + Co Maritime tee.

I made the same size as my previous Maritime tees (reviews are here and here) but lengthened the sleeves to full length by overlaying the Deer & Doe Plantain tee sleeve as a guide for finished length and width. The fabric is an almost-sheer knit with a slight sheen that came to me from Anna but I think she originally bought it at The Cloth Shop. I’m pretty impressed with my stripe matching. Not much more to say about this pattern. It’s a nice relaxed fit basic. The pattern does include FBA instructions for those who need them. I intend to do a side by side comparison of this pattern and Simplicity 1366 when I get myself organised. Don’t hold your breath, but it will happen!

The pants I’m wearing in these photos are the Style Arc Linda pants, in a thick stretch fabric and originally blogged here. These are an excellent work pant. This was such a comfortable outfit! Thanks to those of you who commented on Dad’s leather cap – I really do appreciate your lovely words. Thanks also to the two blog readers who introduced themselves to me at the Melbourne Craft and Quilt Fair yesterday! It was really lovely to meet you and have a quick chat. I hadn’t been to the fair for a couple of years and really enjoyed my day. There seemed to be more variety of stalls, displays and crafts than the last time that I attended (and more room to sit and rest) and the quilts on display were superb. Clare and I had a ball – and came home with a bedazzler.  Hot fix crystals, here we come!  I also came home with some BabyLock brochures and a savings plan in mind….

I have had the Liesl + Co Woodland Stroll Cape pattern in my stash for a little while, but I think that it was seeing Sarah’s lovely version that pushed me over the edge into making it.

The pattern description is as follows: Take a little stroll in this simple, chic, fully-lined cape. With buttons (or snaps) at the sides and the front, it’s easy on and off, and comfortable to wear when there’s a little chill in the air.

I sewed mine in vintage wool from deep stash; a lovely soft fabric that originally belonged to the mother of a friend. I wish I had paid more attention to stripe matching when I cut it out; although I managed to line up the blue stripes I failed to realise that it was an assymetrical stripe and didn’t align the black or white.

I lined the cape with a slippery poly satin from stash. Because this jacket is lined edge to edge with the outer it’s important to understitch carefully to stop the lining from showing. I also topstitched around the entire hem edges for extra security.

There is a facing at the back neck edge, but that is all. It wouldn’t be difficult to draft facings for all the hem edges if you were so inclined, however. The buttons are vintage, also from deep stash.

One of the problems created by letting blog posts lag so far behind the actual time of garment construction is that I tend to forget some of the details. I think that I made this in size 12 throughout, although it could have been a 10. My measurements are closer to the 14 at the moment. I’m pretty happy with the overall fit – although fit is clearly not a big deal in a garment such as this.

This turned out to be a much more pleasing garment than I had originally anticipated. It was an impulse sew one evening after seeing Sarah’s cape, and I’m very glad that I took the time to give it a go. There is also a kid-sized version of this pattern for those who want to wear a bit of “mommy and me”.