Zara released a number of shoulder pad tops into their stores about a year ago, not that I realised that at the time!  A few months later tutorials were popping up on YouTube and similar websites for how to make your own, and pdf patterns weren’t far behind. I first came across the shoulder pad tees when browsing in stores during that brief period at the start of the year when life seemed almost normal for a while. There were plenty on the sale rack – maybe they were ahead of their time here in Australia? At that stage I didn’t consider making one, maybe due to overexposure to shoulder pads during my teens and early 20s. A few months later, here I am in a dress version.

This is the Style Arc Kirby dress and top. Although I’d looked at the pattern a couple of times since it’s release, it took this styling suggestion that popped up on Instagram to make me buy it and sew it up.

I haven’t sewn up the jacket for myself yet (I sewed it for Clare some years ago), but love the combination and I do have some fabric in mind for it.

From the Style Arc website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Square shoulders with shoulder pads, Straight shaped dress and top, 3 lengths in the one pattern, Long dress just above the ankle with side split, Knee length dress with small side split, Hip length top, Crew neck band. FABRIC SUGGESTION: knit jersey. TRIMS: One pair of soft wadding shoulder pads, approximately 6 mm / 1/4″ thickness.

The key to this pattern working successfully is choosing fabric with good drape. I used a printed viscose/spandex knit from The Cloth Shop, and bought the shoulder pads from there as well. I did need to trim them down a little, which was straightforward.

If you don’t have access to shoulder pads, but you do have some quilt batting in your stash, you can make your own shoulder pads. There are plenty of patterns and tutorials online for how to do this – you could try this one from Threads magazine, or this one from Closet Core patterns, and there are a multitude of YouTube tutorials. Obviously, shoulder pads are the key to this pattern!

I sewed size 12, and shortened the pattern two inches in total by taking an inch out at waist level and another inch above the side splits. I was also generous when cutting out the waist section of the pattern, so possibly added another centimetre to the waist circumference. I used double sided fusible tapes to secure the seam allowances of the side splits and the hemline before stitching them in place.

This dress is a definite success for me! I look forward to wearing it when the weather warms up. I may even make a top version – and may even consider tucking it in to pants! I noticed that the Claudia Tank from Just Patterns and the Isosceles from Pattern Scissors Cloth are extremely similar and were released at about the same time. I’ve also just been alterted to the Eight Tee by Made It Patterns – another of that ilk! This is a style that will definitely scream 2020/2021 at some stage, but in the meantime I’ll make the most of those shoulder pads and the confident vibe that they give me.

This is one of those patterns where I didn’t get all the fuss until I sewed it myself.  Now I do.

The High Cuff Sweater is a pattern from The Assembly Line. It’s the first one of their patterns that I have sewn. It was well drafted, and the instructions were extremely clear. The size range is relatively limited – from XS extra small (80cm chest) to L large (104cm chest). I chose to sew size M medium, even though I measured more like the L.

The pattern is described as follows: The High Cuff Sweater is inspired by the traditional sweatshirt and features rib cuffs at the neck, sleeves, and bottom. The shaped bottom cuff is higher at back, which gives it a feminine silhouette. Suggested fabrics are light to mid-weight woven fabrics such as denim, cotton twill, lightweight canvas; tricot works well too. Cotton/elastane rib fabric for cuffs and bands.

What makes this simple pattern such a good one is the combination of a woven fabric for the body and sleeves, with a knitted rib for the neckband, sleeve cuffs and waist bands/cuffs. Although the back band is curved upwards, you can’t see that in these photos. But it does help the top to sit really nicely when it is being worn. No tugging or adjusting needed; it just stays where it should.

I took advice from Anna and did the same 1cm forward shoulder alteration, 2cm neckband lengthening, and 4cm sleeve shortening that she did. This top has bust darts, which were fortunately in the right place for me! It’s very simple to construct. I used both the sewing machine and the overlocker. The fabric is from my stash; it was already patchworked together like that, and is a combination of lightweight denims. Here’s a closer photo of the front and the back if you are inclined to create something similar yourself! The colourway is more accurate in this photo too.

I did topstitching along the shoulder seams and around the neckband in the same pale blue that the fabric manufacturers had used in their topstitching. There’s not really much more to say about this simple top, other than I’ll definitely use this pattern again. It doesn’t need a great deal of fabric for the body, and you could really go to town with contrasting rib. I had never thought that a woven windcheater style top would be handy in my wardrobe – but it is!

Worn here with rigid denim Tessuti Demi pants and Top End shoes.

When I first saw the Style Arc Selina top I thought ‘nah, too frilly for me’.  But I bought it anyway!

I sewed it up in very lightweight and soft seersucker from Super Cheap Fabrics. It wasn’t on their website for long, and I haven’t seen it (or anything similar) since.  Close up it is a green and light cream gingham, but those checks are teensy so it reads more like a textured sage.

I sewed size 12, and if I remember correctly I did a high rounded upper back alteration by adding to the centre bottom of the yoke (not to the neckline) and curving it back up to nothing at the armhole seam. I also cut the back yoke twice so that I could use the burrito method to self-line it and provide a little more structure across the shoulders and upper back.

This is a roomy top, as you can see from the line diagrams. No bust darts needed for fit, and fairly wide shoulders. From the website: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: A line top, Sits at the hip, Hem frills, Sleeve frills, Faced neckline, Gathers falling from back yoke, Slight hi-low hemline, Easy fit. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Rayon, crepe, silk, washed linen.

Because of the softness and semi-sheerness of the fabric I decided not to use the suggested facings to finish the neckline. Instead I cut some bias binding from leftover fabric, and applied it so that it showed on the outside.

Construction was mostly on the sewing machine, with the overlocker used to finish edges. I narrow hemmed the ruffle edges by turning it twice and stitching it on the machine. If I was using a crisper or slightly heavier fabric I would probably overlock the edge then turn it once to hem it in order to reduce bulk. It would be easy for the ruffles to be very ‘sticky-outy’ in a different fabric. I also made sure to iron the ruffle seam allowance flat once it had been joined to the body of the garment, but decided not to topstitch the seam allowance to the body of the garment as I often would.

This was an extremely unseasonal sew, so it’s waiting for the weather to warm up enough to actually wear. I think it will work well with my white linen pants. It would be easy to make this without the ruffles if they’re not your thing.

Worn here with Elk necklace, Style Arc Fifi pants, Django & Juliette sandals.

It looks like Vogue 9161 is now out of print, although you should be able to find it on eBay or Etsy. It’s a Marcy Tilton pattern that includes a top and a skirt. I’ve made both before, blogged here.

Both the skirt and top that I sewed back in early 2018 are still in my wardrobe, and still fit with my aesthetic.  It was definitely time to give the pattern another whirl!

This time around I just sewed the top. It seems that I chose a fabric that is very similar in colour to the one I sewed it in last time! That top was in a linen knit, and it’s got a bit shorter with sucessive washes. The fabric is a knit remnant from Rathdowne Fabrics – it feels like a viscose/cotton/spandex blend.

I did a superb job of attaching the neckband – then realised that I’d attached it with the neckband seam right at the centre front of the top instead of the centre back! Out with the trusty unpicker (and yes, it had already been overlocked). Fortunately the reattachment worked fine.

This top has interesting seaming and shaping, with godets inserted into the side seams to really add to the amount of swing. I sewed size Medium (I measure a size or two larger than that) as it only really needed to fit well across the shoulders and upper chest. The style ease would take care of the bust and waist measurements!

I will sew this top again, but in a different colour! It’s very easy to wear and the comparatively short length works well proportionately with some of the higher waisted and fuller pants and skirts that are in my wardrobe.  I’ll also make the skirt again at some stage.

As with most Marcy Tilton designs, it is definitely along the lines of ‘art teacher chic’ with that looseness through the body. As you know, that’s something that I usually like in my clothes! It’s also very forgiving to my size fluctations.

This is my third go at a DIBY Club sweater pattern.  I’ve sewn both the Mae Poncho Sweater and the Adrianne Sweater, and both those garments are in frequent wardrobe rotation. This time I gave the Cecilia Cisscross Sweater a try.

One of the things that I really like about DIBY Club patterns is that they contain lots of information about how to best alter the pattern to suit your own measurements, including your height. Because I am 158cm tall, with a proportionately short torso, I shortened this sweater two inches through the body, theoretically following the instructions in the pattern. Unfortunately, I didn’t do this correctly on the front pattern piece – because look at what happened!

Nobody needs a great big hole in the side seam beside each boob – unless you’re breastfeeding, maybe. Oh bummer! The lovely teal viscose/lycra from Super Cheap Fabrics really didn’t deserve to be wasted, so I decided to use some of the leftovers to sew a Style Arc Evie knit top to go underneath.

So now I am a little more covered up!  And obviously, unless I raise my arms like this it’s not immediately noticeable (except anyone who reads my blog will now notice it immediately if you ever run into me wearing it).

I figure that others like to know that experienced sewers such as myself still have the ability to mightily stuff things up. Since then I have gone back to the pattern and fixed what I’d done to the front pattern piece so that the next time that I sew it those holes won’t be there, but the overall top will still be this length.

This is straightforward to sew. One pattern piece for the front, one for the back, one for the sleeves. The neckline and lower hem is turned and stitched before sewing the side seams. I chose the cuff option to finish the sleeves, but should have shortened them a couple of inches first (and will do so when I next sew this pattern).

This is a really cute design, that I really didn’t do a good job of! I’m still not certain that this muslin is wearable.  I’m looking forward to sewing this up again at some stage.  It’s the sort of style that is likely to need a camisole or tank underneath, even without those special side seam holes!  So please, don’t do what I did – when you make adjustments, walk those seamlines and check that they will still match up properly!

Although jumpsuits have been all the rage over the past couple of years, I haven’t succumbed.  I did try sewing one a number of years ago, but it went straight to the op shop.  I even printed and cut out the Zadie jumpsuit pattern that it seems like everyone has sewn – but didn’t ever get pattern on to fabric.  I have jumpsuit patterns in my stash.  But it took a stretch jumpsuit pattern for me to actually make the leap and sew one up.

Now, I know that dropped crotches aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I don’t mind them at all. They are definitely ‘a look’ though – especially from behind!

The pattern is the Anitra Harem Style Jumpsuit, from Style Sew Me patterns. It’s the first pattern I’ve used from this designer. From the website: Are you looking for a one-piece that you’ll never want to take off? Anitra is your pattern! Transform your favorite jersey knit fabric into a stylish and comfortable jumpsuit that you can wear dressed out for a night out, in the office with a cute blazer and heels, or sneakers for a comfy day with the family. Skills Used: Stretch fabrics, elastic. Sizes Included: XS – 2XL

This is actually quite simple to sew, but there is a YouTube Sewalong by the designer available if that works for you. I sewed size L, which corresponded best with my measurements. If I sew it again I will shorten the bottom half of the jumpsuit by an inch or two from the waist to better suit my 158cm height – the legs are a little too long.  It would also raise the crotch a little (there’s plenty of room for adjustment there).

The pants legs wrap over one another, so the pattern pieces are not conventionally shaped. The top is super simple, with a front and a back piece. The neckline is fairly open but it needs to be, as that is how you get in and out of the jumpsuit.

The neckline and sleeves are hemmed with a simple narrow turn and stitch. This is not something that I often do for necklines but it worked well on the amount of scoop in this neckline. In the fashion photos on the pattern page the jumpsuit is worn off one shoulder, but that isn’t my scene. The model really rocks it though!

The pants are gathered before attaching to the top at the waistline. That seam is sewn quite wide, then pressed up and stitched to the top to form a casing for elastic. I used elastic that was about an inch wide, from memory. I left an opening in the stitching to insert the elastic then adjusted the length of it until I was happy with how tight it was. Depending on your torso length, you can place the ‘waist’ wherever you like, especially lower on your hips if preferred.

The fabric is a sparkly lurex navy knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. This is definitely a bit of fun that has worked out far better than I’d anticipated! The stretch of the fabric in combination with the elastic waist and overall design make it easy to get into and out of (yes, jumpsuits are annoying when it comes to ease of undressing to go to the loo) and easy to wear. Recommended!  Worn here with Django & Juliette sandals and a beaded necklace bought in Kota Kinabalu (in Malaysian Borneo).

I sewed this one some time ago, just as the weather was getting cold!  I haven’t had the opportunity to wear it yet, but I love it.

It’s quite intriguing that there are so many versions of knit sack dresses around. A few tweaks in shaping here and there, and I jump on board to try another pattern! This is the Style Arc Kitt knit dress.

From the Style Arc website: This is the perfect throw on dress with its slight cocoon shape, extended shoulder line, patch pockets and a shaped hemline. Kitt Knit Dress is a simple make and has a loose fit. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit jersey, slinky, T shirt knit fabric

As you can see from the line drawing, this is simple. Front, back, narrow neck binding, patch pockets. I sewed size 12.

The pockets have a nice amouont of drape in this fabric. It’s a gold foiled print on a dark navy knit base – and yes, it was a remnant. I found it at Darn Cheap Fabrics.

This is such a simple style that it really lets the fabric be the star. Depending on what you choose to sew it in it could be super casual or quite dressed up. The neckline binding is quite narrow, and is completely turned to the inside then topstitched in place. It’s a very neat finish. I used double sided fusible tape on the sleeve and dress hems before topstitching them in place.

Definitely another pattern to put in the ‘winner’ pile!  A couple of these would be excellent additions to a summer holiday suitcase – if we ever get to go away on summer holidays again, that is!