adult’s clothing

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, vintage patterns

vintage Simplicity 6616 skirt

Okay, finally back to garments sewn this year! I’ll start off with another garment for Clare – and it’s a winner. This one was sewn in April.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

Every now and then I sew something for one of the girls that is just something that I feel like sewing for them. This is always a risky decision to make, and experience has taught me that there are absolutely no guarantees that the finished product will be worn. This time though it all worked out.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

This is a vintage Simplicity pattern, 6616 from the 1970s. The pattern was in stash, and I went ahead and sewed the the size that was already cut. Talk about taking a chance!

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

Those old Young Junior / Teen patterns work so well for my girls. I really wish that there was still as much variety in the pattern blocks as there once was.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

The fabric is a fine wale corduroy that has been in stash for a very long time (I think left over from a dress I sewed for Clare about ten years ago). It seems to work fairly well with her wardrobe. I lined the pockets with some printed cotton that was in the large scraps area of the cupboard.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

I didn’t have a suitable invizible zip in stash, so inserted a regular zip centrally into the back seamline. It’s really not my favourite way of inserting a zip – other methods give a superior finish, in my opinion. But it’s acceptable.

Vintage Simplicity 6616 - corduroy

Hooray for vintage patterns and fabric leftovers! The top she’s wearing with it is the Stitch Witch Patterns Tudor Blouse with the front wrap hack, blogged here.

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Victory Patterns Sofia top

I wish that I’d taken better photos of this top on Clare – because it’s really lovely, and she’s worn it heaps. The lighting in these photos does nothing good for Clare or the top!

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

Clare loves a bit of shirring in her clothing. She likes the fit flexibility that it provides, and the comfort. I am always a bit reticent to sew shirred clothing however. Not because the process of shirring is difficult – it’s just lots of straight rows – but because my sewing machine does not like shirring elastic at all. I have to fiddle a great deal with the bobbin case tension to get it working properly, then fiddle again when I am finished to return it to normal. Many of my friends’ machines have no issues with shirring elastic; it’s a trial and error situation to see how yours copes.

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

Clare wore this top to the beach the day that VCE results came out last year and forgot to apply sunscreen – she still has a neckline square from this top of darker skin on her back where she got sunburnt!

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The pattern is Victory Patterns Sofia Dress and Top. From the pattern website: SOFIA is a wonderful mix of pretty and comfortable, featuring an elasticized, shirred bodice that allows for easy fit and wear. You will find full instructions on how to sew shirring. Choose from three garment styles along with several sleeve options, which can be mixed and matched to create several looks. The dress features a waist-length bodice and an A-line skirt with optional pockets and lining. Two top options are also included, allowing you to make a crop with a small ruffle hem, or a peplum top with a larger ruffle hem. Pair them with your favorite high waisted skirt or pants. Choose from four sleeve styles: Sleeves 1 & 2 are similar in style, featuring an elasticated puff shoulder and ruffled hem. Sleeve 1 is cap length, and Sleeve 2 is Elbow length. Sleeve 3 is a bishop sleeve with an elasticated puff shoulder and rows of shirring at the wrist. Sleeve 4 is a bias-cut bell sleeve that is accompanied by a shoulder strap, designed to ensure coverage of bra straps. Lightweight fabric with a soft drape: Cotton, gingham, broadcloth, rayon, linen, single gauze, crepe.

There are two size ranges for the pattern, 0-18 and 14-30. I used a printed rayon remnant from The Cloth Shop for Clare’s top – it shirred beautifully.

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

Clare chose the bell sleeve with shoulder strap option, to better keep the sleeves on her shoulders and provide more bra strap coverage. I also sewed some shoulder strap keepers on the inside for extra security.

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

There aren’t all that many pattern pieces in this garment but it takes plenty of time to get that shirring done. The magic really happens when you hit the rows of shirring with a steam iron; it contracts into a whole lot of lovely little gathered bubbles.  There’s elastic threaded through channels near both the top and bottom of the bodice for additional security and structure.

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The little hemline ruffle is really pretty. I have another of these tops half-constructed at the moment (yes, I stopped when it was time to shir) that was initially planned for Stella, but will now end up with Clare due to Stella’s style changes. Honestly, if my sewing machine was more cooperative I would shir so many more things! There are extensive instructions and tips about shirring included in the pattern by the way.

Victory Patterns Sofia top in rayon from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

This is a pretty pattern with great instructions. Recommended.

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

Only a couple more posts of last year’s sewing to go!  Phew!  This Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt was an unseasonal sew, made back in October 2020.

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

I don’t actually wear summer skirts all that often; I tend to wear dresses when the weather warms up, or lightweight pants that keep the sun off my legs.  However, this one fits into the same place in my wardrobe as those summer pants do – it’s fairly long, and has a semi-elastic waist, which keeps it up (my waist to hip ratio is sometimes challenging when dressing my lower half).

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

Style Arc describe this skirt as follows: This mid length dirndl skirt is made for comfort with a curved front waist band, elastic back and a functional button front. The inseam pockets are optional. The slight gathers at the front create a flattering shape that gives this skirt a fashionable but classical look. This is a versatile skirt that can be worn for any occasion. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, Crepe, Rayon, Cotton.

As is usually the case, there are subtleties in the drafting that give this skirt a pleasing silhouette.  It’s not too full, and although the back gathers are created by the elastic in the back waistband, the front has a small amount of gathering in to a flat fitted waistband.  The buttons down the front are functional; the skirt can be fully opened up, which is nice for better ironing access, but not necessary to get it on.  Actually, I think that the elastic in the back waistband is enough for me to pull this up over my hips.

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

The pockets are the usual inseam variety.  The elastic is only in the centre back section of the waistband.  I seem to recall that I scratched my head a few times when constructing the waistband, and had to re-read the instructions and take things slowly.  But it all worked out okay in the end!

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

Working out how best to style this midi-length skirt was a bit of a challenge for me!  I generally don’t tuck things in, so need something that still has proportions that I like when it’s worn over the top of it.  The Style Arc Bonnie woven tops (my version here and the other view that I sewed for Stella here) were designed to go with this, so would work!  I think it’s best with a bit of a crop – this simple tunic scoops up high enough at the centres to please me.

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

The fabric is rayon that I bought a very long time ago, when GJs discount fabrics was still in Lygon Street.  Although I didn’t wear this much last summer, I think it will stay in my wardrobe for a long time.

Style Arc Bonnie woven skirt

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

more Hemlock tees

When I first sewed the Grainline Studio Hemlock tee in 2013 it was a free, one-size only pattern.  In late 2019 an updated version of the pattern was released, with different sleeve and body lengths, and a size range from 0 – 30.  It’s still free if you subscribe to their newsletter.  My review of the original pattern is here, and the update here.

Grainline Hemlock tee

I went through a flurry of slouchy tee sewing for Clare in October last year, figuring that this pattern might be a great way to use up small cuts and remnants, especially if I mixed fabrics.

Grainline Hemlock tee

There really wasn’t quite enough of the cream with hearts print that you can see below though – cropped length entirely dictated by the amount of fabric, and it’s a cotton/spandex so not as much drape.

Grainline Hemlock tee

I pieced together every little scrap that I had of this ‘faces’ print to make Clare’s tee – if you look closely you can see the seams in the front!

Grainline Hemlock tee

And i had to use a contrast for the back and neck band.

Grainline Hemlock tee

This fabric was a bit of a challenge to sew – it skipped stitches really easily.  I found that a zig zag stitch worked the best for securing hems and the neckband seam allowances.

Grainline Hemlock tee

This pattern was also the base for Clare’s last day of high school outfit.  We appliqued the eye and smile, and found the tutu at Spotlight.

Grainline Hemlock tee

Monsters University!

Grainline Hemlock tee

I have no idea what size I used for Clare, other than it would have been one of the smaller sizes.  I definitely suggest fabrics with some drape so that the tee looks slouchy rather than just too big.  This is a terrific pattern that could work for most members of the family.

adult's clothing, sewing

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

Yes, it’s another of last year’s garments.  Photographed in October 2020, possibly sewn a few months prior.  And no longer in my wardrobe, but I’ll get to that later.

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

The Arenite pants by Sew Liberated have been pretty popular in the online sewing community. I tend to stick with Style Arc for pants, because I know their draft. Pants are one of the most difficult garments to fit well in my opinion – so many shapes in so many dimensions to work with! The slouchy pockets appealed to me, along with the seaming. So I sewed them up in some deep stash fabric, which is a polyester of some type, possibly a microfibre. Perfect for a wearable muslin.

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

From the pattern website: The Arenite Pants are the luxuriously deep-pocketed, slouchy pants of your dreams. The pattern includes three leg finishing options – a knit cuff, an elasticated woven cuff, or a dressier hem. It also includes a view for knit fabrics, with two cuff options, for perfect, effortless loungewear. Whether made in knit or woven, the Arenite Pants blend cozy and chic, for a piece that can slip into any wardrobe, perfect for styling with tees, sweaters, and jackets, for relaxing at home, running errands, or dressed up for evenings out. They’re our new favorite pants, and we hope they’ll be yours too!

Learn to sew French seams, flat-felled seams and a comfortable, non-twist elastic waistband for a made-to-last, beautifully crafted wardrobe staple. This pattern is suitable for advanced beginners. It is the perfect project for those new to sewing pants or knits, as the fit is very forgiving. The Arenite Pants View A is designed for woven fabrics, with the exception of the knit cuff option. For the main pant, look for rayon challis, tencel twill, or silk noil. The essential characteristic of the woven fabric is fantastic drape. View B is designed for knit fabrics. Look for stable knits with a bit of drape such as interlock, sweatshirt fleece, or french terry.

I didn’t do flat-felled seams but instead overlocked, pressed to one side then topstitched. The fabric does have good drape, so worked out okay for the style. The reason it’s no longer in my wardrobe is that I don’t want to wear casual pants in polyester! I want a soft cotton, a rayon or linen. I will remake them eventually, in one of those fabrics.

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

The fit is very forgiving. They’re a loose style, and reviews that I’d read prior to cutting out indicated that many people went down two sizes smaller than their measurements indicated. I really wasn’t quite certain what to do, so went with one size smaller than my hip measurement. As expected, there’s plenty of room in the back thigh, which is usually the case for me. My legs are quite small compared to my torso.

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

The topstitching is a really nice feature, as are the slouchy pants. This type of shape works well on my type of shape with comparatively small hips and large waist and stomach. Because the waistband is elasticated it’s easy to adjust for comfort. I tend to thread through elastic into waistbands, safety pin the ends, then wear it for a day or two, adjusting the elastic as I go to get the fit just right. I think that I used one channel of wide elastic for these pants, and didn’t topstich through it.

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

It’s hard to remember the details from a year ago, but I assume that I shortened the pattern pieces mid-way down the leg before cutting out to accomodate my 158cm height. They’re still quite long and I’d shorten them even more in future renditions. I do like this pattern, and am likely to use it again.

Sew Liberated Arenite pants

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress

Goodness, how did I not get this dress blogged sooner! It’s possibly my favourite sew of 2020.  May I present to you, the Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress!

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

I first saw this dress when Anna wore a prototype to Frocktails a year or so ago and knew that I would definitely want to sew it when the pattern was released. In the end I pattern tested it (so didn’t pay for the pattern). Nita-Jane likes to get feedback, mostly on the instructions – her pattern making and drafting is superb, I have no suggestions to make on that!

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

The fabric is linen that I bought in person at The Fabric Store in Dunedin, New Zealand when we visited there a couple of years ago. It’s such a fabulous shade of green and was a perfect fabric souvenir. And a little challenging to thread match from my existing thread stash. I can’t remember which one of these I eventually chose!

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

I absolutely adore the sleeves. I feel that they have the perfect level of puff, especially given that the fullness is all at the cuff. The sleeves are gathered into a narrow bias cut binding; they’re not elasticised.

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

This is a garment that takes time and precision sewing. Savour the process and do not rush! And you definitely need to be accurate, especially with those underarm gussets.

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

From the pattern website: DESIGN: Mersis dress is a shift dress for superstars. The Mersis draws on 80’s glam with generous shapes and peek-a-boo features that suggest more than they reveal. Dynasty balloon sleeves, a deep ‘V’ neck at back and midway ‘V’ for the front neckline. The Centre Front seam features a wide seam allowance topstitched down to enhance the long line from shoulder to hem. The centre front hem features a mitre corner finish and split for the longer lengths. FIT: The Mersis Dress has a shift fit. Loose through the body and slight taper in the dress length hemlines. The ‘V’ necklines are purposefully cut to be above most bra straps and to minimise shoulder drop. Pocket opening and are on high hip to streamline hips and reduce lapline bagging. There’s a lot of ease throughout the body.

I sewed the Midi dress version, which isn’t actually a length that I used to wear very often – but I like it! Do make sure that you reinforce the centre front split with plenty of stitches and possibly even a little interfacing or similar when you sew it – I found this out the hard when when I got out of the car wearing it and heard some of the stitches rip! And because the seams are finished and topstitched so beautifully, it was a hand-stitched fix. Don’t do what I did; make sure that you do that part properly when you first sew it.

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

Also speaking of ‘don’t do what I did’, make sure that you remove pins before you sew over them or you run the risk of this:

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

So, back to the dress! I often leave pockets out of dresses, but left then in and I think that they actually provide a nice structural detail.

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

Nita-Jane is right about the neckline too – there isn’t any bra exposure, and my bra isn’t a skimpy one. And it did pretty much stay on my shoulders – which is a mean feat for me as they are pretty rounded and straps/necklines moving off them is a common issue for me.

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

I sewed size 14, which was the size suggested by my measurements. At first I thought that I could have gone down one size, but on reflection I think that the 14 is good and it was defintiely comfortable to wear (I wore it to the theatre way back between lockdowns).

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

So there you go, loads of photos of a dress that I really love. I’ll use the pattern again, maybe to do the top version, but hopefully eventually for a full length stunner like the metallic leopard print version on the pattern website.

Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress in linen

adult's clothing, George and Ginger, sewing, teen

George and Ginger Malibu dress

I made this dress back in around August or September 2020 as a fit test for a slip to go under a lace dress that was going to be either Clare’s valedictory dinner or graduation ceremony dress.  In the end there was no valedictory dinner, and she wore a different dress to her graduation.  But this fit test dress was worn quite often!

George and Ginger Malibu dress

Ah, strappy dresses worn over a tee – does that take you back to the 90s? The pattern is the George and Ginger Malibu dress.

From the George and Ginger website: The Malibu Dress is straight out of your favorite 90s movie! Featuring thin binded straps and two length options, mini and full length, wear over a basic tee or stand alone! This basics design is great for layering with our other Grunge looks! Suggested fabric is any knit with 50% stretch and adequate drape.

As you would imagine, this was a super straightforward dress to sew. The straps are also bindings, and are enough layers to be quite strong and stable.

George and Ginger Malibu dress

There’s a nice amount of flare in the skirt, along with the fitted bodice that Clare prefers in her clothing. The fabric is a jacquard knit that I bought years and years ago from the Super Cheap Fabrics store in Brunswick (although I have seen it pop up again on their website more recently). It’s a terrific fabric! Soft but not flimsy, and a good amount of stretch. Pretty much perfect for this dress.

George and Ginger Malibu dress

I don’t think that I’ve seen Clare wear this dress without something under it – it’s often over a white short sleeved tee. Size wise I suspect that I sewed XXS or XS but I’d have to pull out the pattern again to check. It ranges from a tween 28.5″ to an adult 55.5″ bust.

George and Ginger Malibu dress

I wonder if Stella wants one of these dresses too – in black, of course 😉 It’s a satisfying dress to make when you need a bit of a ‘palate cleanser’ sew, and is useful in most wardrobes as either a dress to go over things or a slip to go under things – or to just wear on it’s own!

adult's clothing, sewing

Maya the third

When I have a relatively small amount of fabric, just enough for a top, I reach for the Marilla Walker Maya dress and top pattern.

Marilla Walker Maya top in linen from <a href=

This time around I used a linen remnant from The Cloth Shop. I like the wide neckline facing and sleeve facings; the topstitching provides a little relief to the solid colour.

Marilla Walker Maya top in linen from The Cloth Shop

I used Liberty print bias binding to finish the inside of the curved hemline. Back and front hems are finished before sewing the side seams. This gives a lovely curve to the hems and a very clean finish where the side seams intersect.

Marilla Walker Maya top in linen from The Cloth Shop

You can use bias binding to finish the neckline and armholes too if you like. This pattern is a great blank canvas and is ripe for alteration, modification and creativity. Not that this version displays any of those things!

Marilla Walker Maya top in linen from The Cloth Shop

This was sewn and photographed back in November 2020. I wore it quite often during summer. Size wise it’s size 7 with a forward shoulder alteration, but a smaller size would have been okay.

Marilla Walker Maya top in linen from The Cloth Shop

I used this pattern again recently to sew a winter version in wool to layer over other garments – once I finish blogging the 2020 backlog I will start on the 2021 backlog! In the meantime I’ll dream of weather that allows me to wear linen again. My first versions of the Maya top are here (sewn in 2018) and here (sewn in 2019).  Looks like I’m sewing one each year!

Marilla Walker Maya top in linen from The Cloth Shop

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Pattern Fantastique Calyx Smock – again

This is another repeat, so click here to read more details about my first Pattern Fantastique Calyx Smock.

Pattern Fantastique Calyx top

This time around I sewed the shorter sleeved version, purely because of fabric limitations.

Pattern Fantastique Calyx top

I bought the fabric from someone else’s destash. It’s a soft cotton voile, and I really adore the print.

Pattern Fantastique Calyx top

I do like raglan sleeves, and they make construction very simple. With my small head I probably don’t need the back opening, but I do like the look of the tie that extends from the neckline binding. I did hand-sew the bias binding to the inside of the neckline.

Pattern Fantastique Calyx top

I plan to sew the dress version of this at some stage. Maybe before spring gets here! This one was sewn and photographed in December 2020. I now have both orange and teal pants that would look better with it than the heavier black that I paired it with for these photos.

Pattern Fantastique Calyx top

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Sydney dress

Well, this year really has gone off the rails.  Dad was in and out of hospital then died just after we came out of fourth lockdown.  Since then we’ve had a fifth lockdown and are now in a sixth lockdown – and much of the rest of the east of Australia is in lockdown too.  Bloody covid, the Delta strain is so difficult to contain.  We were so lucky here in Australia to get through 2020 pretty well, but now things look to be going down the gurgler while we try to get more people vaccinated (Dan, Clare and I are all fully vaccinated but Stella is still too young to be eligible).  Toss grief into the mix, as well as general exhaustion and there’s no wonder that my blog is neglected.  Anyway, enough of that.

Thank you SO much to all of you who left such lovely messages after my last post about Dad’s death.  I really did and do appreciate them – you are all very kind and it’s comforting to know that people care.  Grief is a challenging and sometimes confronting thing.  I continue to be constantly grateful for the long and full life that Dad had, and that we were able to have a ‘proper’ funeral for him between lockdowns.  You timed things very well Dad!

Back to the sewing.  The Style Arc Sydney pattern had been in my stash for ages.  It’s one of those ones that I’m now saying ‘why didn’t I sew this up earlier’!

Style Arc Sydney dress

This is a garment that I sewed and photographed in December 2020. I sewed size 12, my usual Style Arc top/dress size, left out the inseam pockets, and shortend it around two inches (maybe more?) by taking a fold through the centre of each skirt pattern piece in order to retain the cocoon shaping.

Style Arc Sydney dress

The fabric was a gift from a generous friend; I really love this sort of print. And it’s so soft! I suspect that it’s a Merchant and Mills block print, but can’t be sure.

Style Arc Sydney dress

You can see the folds created by the curved seamlines and the slight high-low hemline in the above photo. I was concerned that inseam pockets would drag on the seamlines in this soft fabric, so didn’t include them – which also made sewing time much faster, of course!

Style Arc Sydney dress

From the Style Arc website: Architecturally designed cocoon shaped dress. Each panel has been engineered to create the drape and fall of this interesting style. Mid length front and longer back along with the extended shoulder line completes this avant-garde look. This pattern is a clever design but is also an easy make. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Crepe, silk, washed linen, even a knit or any fabric with drape.

It looks as though I forgot to fold up the sleeves properly in these photos! They can have a folded cuff – as per the fashion illustration – or you can leave them longer. Might be a good idea to pick one or the other!

Style Arc Sydney dress

Anyway, this dress is a winner and will be part of my wardrobe for ages. It’s really comfortable in hot weather, provides some shoulder and upper arm coverage to keep that sun off, and I think that it’s rather stylish too! Just make sure that you adjust the pattern length before you cut out the dress if you are shorter than average.

Style Arc Sydney dress

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