Last year, I think it was around the time we were entering sixth lockdown, de Linum offered me a discount on linen in exchange for a blog/instagram post.  I had browsed their website previously and was glad to take up their offer, as I really do like to sew with and wear linen. It is a little embarassing that it took me this long to actually sew it up, get photos and write the blog post! Fortunately good things come to those who wait.

The linen is that lovely turquoise blue colour that is often quite difficult to photograph accurately. The fine stripe running through it is a warm orange/mustard colour, with a fine white stripe immediately either side. And it looks like it’s still available for purchase!

I chose the Tessuti Rae dress as being a good match for the linen. Those of you who have been reading my blog for a while would remember that I usually have success with Tessuti patterns. Their draft seems to work well for me, and many of the styles fit with my aesthetic. The size range is relatively limited, with this pattern covering Australian sizes 6 to 18. I am trying to remember what size I sewed – probably a 12 or 14, or a mixture of both. I select size depending on finished pattern measurements and the amount of ease that I prefer, and I choose patterns that are designed to be loose rather than fitted through the waist.

Tessuti describe the Rae dress as follows: Forward side seams and a deep lantern hem subtly shape this knee length, pull-on shift dress. Other design features of the Rae Dress include a wide gathered neckline, inseam pockets with topstitch detail and options for a sleek sleeveless look with bound armholes (View A) or soft elbow length sleeves with gathered hems (View B). This dress is versatile and trans-seasonal. Recommended fabrics: linen, cotton poplin, light-weight wool, light-weight denim.

I sewed view B with the sleeves. I did make a couple of my usual alterations to the pattern. I removed around two inches from the length at the shorten/lengthen line to better suit my 158cm height, and I did a forward shoulder alteration of around 1cm. And yes, I did just mix the imperial and metric measurement systems in the same sentence there – although I grew up in metric times (I am 53), I learned to sew with patterns that were all in inches. When it comes to sewing, I think in both!

The gentle gathering provided by the elastic in the neck and sleeves is surprisingly pleasing to me. When this pattern was first released it didn’t really excite me, but it’s grown on me tremendously. I like that it seems to nod to the current trend of big gathered sleeves in a much more subtle and classic way – let alone being way more practical!

Unsurprisingly, the linen was a delight to sew. I pre-washed the fabric using the same method as I intend to use for the finished garment. I tossed it into the machine with warm water and gentle detergent. I have recently read Sandra Betzina’s method of pre-treating linen that reduces the wrinkling that seems inevitable with linen garments. She says ‘Before you preshrink, open the windows and iron the linen with the hottest dry iron possible, to set a wrinkle-less finish, which is already on the fabric. Next, throw in a little gentle detergent and wash and dry in the hottest water and hottest dryer you have. Take out of the dryer when close to bone dry. You will notice that smaller softer wrinkles have replaced the hard crease usually associated with the fabric.’  I may give that a go at some stage in the future, but I quite like the way that linen ‘collapses’ against the body during wear, and can cope with the wrinkling that accompanies that.

The dress has pockets in the forward side seams. I read and followed Tessuti’s pocket insertion instructions carefully and am very pleased with the finished result. The pocket bags are topstitched to the dress which both adds detail and stops them flapping around on the inside!

Not only will this pattern get another outing at some stage, but I’ll be buying and sewing more linen. I still have a piece of white linen with a fine grey stripe that came in the same de Linum order – I am thinking of using it for a shirt; either the Pattern Fantastique Phen shirt or the Style Arc Crystal or Archie.