Month: February 2022

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Another Vali

It’s almost a year since I sewed my wearable muslin of the Pattern Fantastique Vali dress.  It’s already left my wardrobe, but I’ve sewed another one!

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

This time around I actually did what I said I’d do. I sewed it in a linen blend, did the drop neck version, and did a forward shoulder alteration.

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

The fabric is from Super Cheap Fabrics. I do like to keep an eye on their website, as they often have industry overstock and roll ends. This print is no longer on their website. From memory it’s a cotton/linen blend, and the print is very ‘surface’. I like the colour mix, although it does photograph differently in every photo depending on the light! It’s a little stiff, but is relaxing more with each wash. I need to iron it from the wrong side, because otherwise my iron grabs onto the print. It doesn’t get super wrinkled – in fact, these photos are taken after a full day of wear, including a car trip.

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

The forward shoulder alteration is only 1cm, but that is enough to have the yoke sitting better on my body. I sewed size 12. The yoke is quite closely fitted, so do pay attention to your upper chest/bust measurement when selecting what size to sew in this pattern!

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

I was never likely to wear the top tie done up, and much prefer this version of the dress with the neckline dropping below the yoke into the body of the dress. I’m quite happy to have that lower tie done up, as the opening extends to the bottom of my bra band. The depth of the neckline is easily adjustable (as long as you remember that when sewing).

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

I really like the curved hemline. It is finished before sewing the side seams, which allows you to get a nice double curve. Most of this dress is sewn on the sewing machine; I only used the overlocker a few times during construction to finish off some seam allowances.

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

From the Pattern Fantastique website: The Vali Dress is a classic 70’s style glam smock. The high neckline is surrounded by sleeve and yoke gathers. Volumes of fabric, fine ties, topstitched facings and pocket bags will transform the simplest of materials into a romantic, textured and detailed dress or top. The Vali has two neckline options, the standard neckline and a drop neckline, for those who prefer a plunge or need a little more breastfeeding access. Sizes range from 6-26. The yoke is the key fitting point with a high neckline and close-fitting yoke line that gives form to an otherwise full flowing dress. The instructions contain more information on how to measure and choose the best size for you.

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

I’m still not dead certain about those sleeves on me. SO much volume at the sleeve cuff! I wore them for a day with the elastic secured with a safety pin, and loosened them off a fraction to what you see in the photos. I don’t want my arms to feel strangled! It’s a very comfortable dress to wear. And I do like those pockets. They have side seam access but are sewn to the front of the dress, which stops them from flapping around.

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

This Vali dress will definitely stay in my wardrobe. I have a feeling that the boofy sleeves will continue to grow on me, and I really like everything else about it. The abstract print reduces the nightdress vibe, and the small alterations I made to this one as compared to the last mean that overall it is much more ‘me’.

Pattern Fantastique Vali dress

adult's clothing, de Linum, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

Last year, I think it was around the time we were entering sixth lockdown, de Linum offered me a discount on linen in exchange for a blog/instagram post.  I had browsed their website previously and was glad to take up their offer, as I really do like to sew with and wear linen. It is a little embarassing that it took me this long to actually sew it up, get photos and write the blog post! Fortunately good things come to those who wait.

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

The linen is that lovely turquoise blue colour that is often quite difficult to photograph accurately. The fine stripe running through it is a warm orange/mustard colour, with a fine white stripe immediately either side. And it looks like it’s still available for purchase!

linen and pattern

I chose the Tessuti Rae dress as being a good match for the linen. Those of you who have been reading my blog for a while would remember that I usually have success with Tessuti patterns. Their draft seems to work well for me, and many of the styles fit with my aesthetic. The size range is relatively limited, with this pattern covering Australian sizes 6 to 18. I am trying to remember what size I sewed – probably a 12 or 14, or a mixture of both. I select size depending on finished pattern measurements and the amount of ease that I prefer, and I choose patterns that are designed to be loose rather than fitted through the waist.

Tessuti describe the Rae dress as follows: Forward side seams and a deep lantern hem subtly shape this knee length, pull-on shift dress. Other design features of the Rae Dress include a wide gathered neckline, inseam pockets with topstitch detail and options for a sleek sleeveless look with bound armholes (View A) or soft elbow length sleeves with gathered hems (View B). This dress is versatile and trans-seasonal. Recommended fabrics: linen, cotton poplin, light-weight wool, light-weight denim.

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

I sewed view B with the sleeves. I did make a couple of my usual alterations to the pattern. I removed around two inches from the length at the shorten/lengthen line to better suit my 158cm height, and I did a forward shoulder alteration of around 1cm. And yes, I did just mix the imperial and metric measurement systems in the same sentence there – although I grew up in metric times (I am 53), I learned to sew with patterns that were all in inches. When it comes to sewing, I think in both!

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

The gentle gathering provided by the elastic in the neck and sleeves is surprisingly pleasing to me. When this pattern was first released it didn’t really excite me, but it’s grown on me tremendously. I like that it seems to nod to the current trend of big gathered sleeves in a much more subtle and classic way – let alone being way more practical!

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

Unsurprisingly, the linen was a delight to sew. I pre-washed the fabric using the same method as I intend to use for the finished garment. I tossed it into the machine with warm water and gentle detergent. I have recently read Sandra Betzina’s method of pre-treating linen that reduces the wrinkling that seems inevitable with linen garments. She says ‘Before you preshrink, open the windows and iron the linen with the hottest dry iron possible, to set a wrinkle-less finish, which is already on the fabric. Next, throw in a little gentle detergent and wash and dry in the hottest water and hottest dryer you have. Take out of the dryer when close to bone dry. You will notice that smaller softer wrinkles have replaced the hard crease usually associated with the fabric.’  I may give that a go at some stage in the future, but I quite like the way that linen ‘collapses’ against the body during wear, and can cope with the wrinkling that accompanies that.

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

The dress has pockets in the forward side seams. I read and followed Tessuti’s pocket insertion instructions carefully and am very pleased with the finished result. The pocket bags are topstitched to the dress which both adds detail and stops them flapping around on the inside!

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen

Not only will this pattern get another outing at some stage, but I’ll be buying and sewing more linen. I still have a piece of white linen with a fine grey stripe that came in the same de Linum order – I am thinking of using it for a shirt; either the Pattern Fantastique Phen shirt or the Style Arc Crystal or Archie.

Tessuti Rae dress in de Linum linen