Clare is finally able to enjoy a social life (after the events of the past couple of years).  As a result, she needs some fancy clothes!  We had an excursion to the local shopping centre a few months ago where she tried on a variety of styles and we figured out more about what she likes, what she feels good in, and that if we want good fit, I need to sew for her.

Vikisews has a number of patterns that are very current and appeal to my teenagers. She sells her patterns in height ranges, which works well for us. Some are available as multi-sized patterns and others are single sized. You can find them on Etsy and on the Vikisews website. The designer is Russian, so many of the patterns have instructions/markings in both Russian and/or English.

I started with a bodice muslin, both to get an idea of sizing and to understand the construction. I figured that I’d be able to convert the bodice muslin into a top. The floral cotton has been in stash for ages; it originally came from GJs, back when they were in Brunswick.

The pattern came with step by step instructions with photos of each step. There was also plenty of general fitting and construction detail. Although these long tutorials don’t lend themselves easily to being printed, and are better read from an iPad or laptop screen during the sewing process, the instructions were very comprehensive.

I inserted an separating zip in the centre back so that the muslin could be worn as a top. The zip was really a fraction too long for the bodice depth, so the insertion is a bit dodgy, but that’s on me. I found the zip at Jimmy Buttons.

The top has only been worn a few times, because it was made back in winter! Anyway, on to the dress that the top was really all about. I had sewn the top in size US 2 / UK (and Aus) 6 / EU 34, and chosen the 154-160cm height range. Clare is a little over 160cm tall but she’s proportionately shorter through the torso, so I felt that would be a better fit. I hadn’t needed to alter the top, so was able to cut straight into the poly satin that we’d bought from Lincraft (for an absolutely bargain price of around $2 per metre!). I did my own free-style grading up the pattern from the waist to the hips at the side seams and centre back seam, as Clare is more an Australian size 8 through the hips. It seemed to work!

The dress is completely lined and I chose to self-line (I had loads of that bargain satin). The instructions make sure that you stabilise the seamlines of all relevant pieces with fusible tape, and I think that really helped with keeping everything in shape and making it easier to sew. The back of the dress closes with an invisible zip. I have a few photos of the dress turned inside out to share with you.

Clare wore this dress to a 21st birthday party back in August, accessorised with my jewelery and my grandmother’s fur jacket. She looked fabulous, and apparently the skirt split allowed for plenty of Greek dancing. But any tighter through the skirt and she wouldn’t have been able to sit comfortably!  I swear that poly satin photographs terribly and shows all sorts of wrinkles and folds that aren’t an issue in reality – but you still get the overall picture; she looked gorgeous!

I have another Vikisews formal dress pattern just waiting to be cut out and sewn for Clare before we head to the USA in five weeks time. Had better get cracking!