Ah, Melbourne Frocktails!  It’s been ages since I last attended Frocktails, as it has often clashed with my Sewjourn weekends, and it didn’t happen at all over the past couple of years.  So it was lovely to meet up with sewing people again!  Shelley and Lisa did a superb job of organising it; the food was delicious and plentiful, and the lighting stayed turned up so that we could clearly admire and appreciate one another’s outfits! Here’s some of the #sewover50 crowd:

So, what did I wear? I needed something that would be straightforward to sew, and comfortable to wear (gee I really do use the word comfortable a lot when talking about sewing clothing – you can really tell that it’s important to me). For a while I’d be thinking of sewing Vogue 8825 again, and when picking up the denim for my Square Pants from Super Cheap Fabrics my eyes alighted on some navy knit that had lurex running through it.

Metallic fibres in fabrics have a tendency to be scratchy, but this one was a medium weight fabric and knitted in such a way that the metallic didn’t scratch at all. There was also plenty of spandex content, which helped with recovery.

I first sewed this in 2013, and judging from the 63 Pattern Reviews of Vogue 8825 it was released in 2012! It’s still available today, so has clearly been a popular pattern. From the Vogue website: Pullover tunic or dress has front extending into back collar, fitted, pleated, surplice bodice front, raised empire waist, tie ends, two-piece blouson sleeves with barrel cuffs, and stitched hem. Fitted, straight-leg pants (below waist) have elastic waist.

I had originally made this pattern in size 14, with petite adjustments. I was considerably slimmer then but was pretty certain that the same size would work for the bodice as long as I altered the skirt portion. In the end I cut the skirt with an additional inch along either side seam, even more along the waistline.

I needed to pin the centre front to avoid major bra exposure when I moved. It was absolutely fine when I just stood straight, but unsurprisingly it gaped when I tried to do anything other than stand still and straight! If I sewed this again I would possibly cut a larger size along the front to allow for more overlap. Or I could just wear a camisole underneath.

I eased the skirt onto the bodice and added a couple of judiciously placed pleats to transition between the size 14 bodice and much larger skirt. Because I was working with a knit, and there is a long wide waist sash, this worked just fine! I was very happy with the fit through the body.

There was a houseful of adulteens when I was finishing the dress, so I consulted them on the best length. The decision was made for above the knee because it ‘slayed’. I also popped in some small raglan shoulder pads that had been in the cupboard since the 1980s. They really gave this dress a lift and balanced out the proportions of my body nicely. I narrowed the sleeve cuffs considerably to make them tighter around my wrist and have noted that pretty much everyone who has sewn this dress has needed to do the same.

Those are end-of-night photos above, which is why they are inside and I’m looking a bit bleary – Clare kindly picked me up from the bus stop at midnight! One of the upsides of having an adulteen who stays up late and has her license. You can find details of the coat made for 2015 Frocktails in this blog post. I still love it and find every opportunity to wear it.

Of course the highlight of Frocktails was meeting up with sewing friends both old and new, some I hadn’t met ‘in real life’ before! There was a great deal of chat; it was delightful.  I am constantly astounded by the talent that is found within the sewing community and love that it spans the age spectrum.

Although I generally prefer smallish gatherings that allow for more in-depth conversation, the venue really did allow for comfy spots to sit and really get in to conversation. It was an excellent evening.

I’ve tried a few knit pant patterns over the years, but this is my current favourite.  They’re the Style Arc Palermo knit pants.

Okay, you can hardly see the details because they’re black. They’re sewn from merino french terry (courtesy of a generous friend) and they’re incredibly warm and comfortable. This is a wonder fabric! The Fabric Store always have a good collection of merino knits if you’re looking for some, although I try to keep an eye out pretty much everywhere.  I’ll try a closer photo.

It might just be easier to share the pattern description and line drawing! From the Style Arc website:

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
On trend knit pant
Drop crotch
Saddle seam
Elastic waist
In seam pockets
Easy lounge wear fit
Slim leg opening
FABRIC SUGGESTION
Knit jersey or any knit fabric with drape.

I sewed size 12, and shortened the legs of the pattern pieces before cutting out. Rather than using wide elastic in the waist I did three channels for narrower elastic, and I didn’t worry about including a drawstring or tie. I pinned the elastic to length and wore them a few times for finally sewing it to the most comfortable length. I did include the deep inseam pockets.  Construction was shared between the overlocker and sewing machine.

The drop crotch isn’t all that extreme on me – I suspect that my belly takes up some of the additional room that it provides. These are exceedingly comforable pants for me, and with tops worn out over them they will also be coming to the USA with me in December/January! If I find time between now and then I might even sew another pair in a different colour. They’d also be good in a rayon knit for warmer weather.

I do like dresses.  In summer they are my garment of choice.  In winter I tend to gravitate to pants because they are warmer on my legs than wearing tights, but there are still a few winter dresses in my wardrobe.  I hope that this one, the Style Arc Emerson dress, will be worn in spring and autumn as well as during winter.

I wore this to a lovely friend’s 50th birthday sewing weekend in Warburton. It coordinated beautifully with the parrots that flocked to the deck! It’s sewn in red pinwale corduroy from Super Cheap Fabrics. I had this cut out for ages before getting around to sewing it up – then of course I wondered why it had taken me so long!

Style Arc describe the pattern as follows:
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Mandarin collar
Low waist
Button through
2 sleeve length options, 3/4 & full length
Elastic sleeve openings
Bust dart from armhole
2 skirt options, midi length skirt & a 2-tiered shorter length skirt.
In seam pockets.
7cm / 2 1/2″ bust ease.
FABRIC SUGGESTION
Rayon, crepe, silk.

I sewed size 12, and should have paid more attention to the bust ease. I should have done a 14 through the body; it’s a bit snug across the boobs and the belly. The straight bodice accommodates my lack of waist, and the skirt attaches at a slightly lowered waistline. It’s not low enough to scream late 80s and early 90s, but low enough for pleasing proportions. The skirt tiers are just the right length.

Red is almost as hard to photograph as black! Note that corduroy is NOT a suggested fabric for this dress. I figured that the pinwale corduroy would be light enough to be successful, and it is, but a size larger might have been better. And of course the corduroy sticks to my tights and rides up a bit, as you can see in the above photo. Maybe a slip would have been a good idea.

The buttons were an op shop find – I have quite a collection in my stash. I really didn’t know what buttons to use, and didn’t want to go out to buy any. I figured that it would work to go with a contrast.

I did include the side seam pockets. I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with in-seam pockets in dresses. Putting things in them – generally a mobile phone – can really weight things down and make the dress hang strangely. But they’re so handy! I am currently sewing a formal dress to wear to a wedding, and after some consideration decided that I’d leave out the pockets. Let’s hope that I don’t regret it! I will use some leftover fabric to make a matching clutch with wrist strap, so hopefully that will solve the ‘where do I put my phone’ problem!

I will give this pattern another go at some stage in a lighter weight fabric as recommended, possibly with the shorter sleeve option. The neckline and collar are rather lovely.  I note that Style Arc have been adding to their tutorials page lately with photo tutorials for tricky bits in some patterns, and there are some videos on their YouTube channel.    These might help some of you who have difficulty with some of Style Arc’s instructions.  I personally don’t tend to have any problems with them – I’ve been sewing for a long time, understand order of construction, and learn well from written instructions and diagrams.  It’s the drafting – and Style Arc have excellent drafting – that I worry about!  But I know that some people find photos or videos more helpful.  Thank goodness that we have such easy access to information on sewing techniques via the internet – there’s usually a handy Threads article or a YouTube video for almost everything!

Here’s a Style Arc pattern that I’ve only sewn once before!  They’re the Blakley stretch jeans.

Yes, these are the pants that I’m wearing in yesterday’s blog post. This pair were sewn in stretch bengaline from Super Cheap Fabrics. Bengaline has plenty of stretch, that runs along the length of the fabric parallel with the selvedges rather than across the grain where you’d normally expect stretch to be. They’re woven fabrics, with the stretch provided by spandex. Fibre composition can vary, with polyester, cotton, rayon and nylon sometimes in the mix with the spandex. Super Cheap Fabrics has bengaline in both plains and prints.  I like plenty of stretch in my pull-on jeans, as it definitely acts as a fitting aid for my shape.  The narrow straight leg on the Blakley works nicely for me.  Although I always wear my jeans with my tops over them, I’ve taken some tucked in photos for you to see the fit and the details that are generallly hidden!  I don’t bother including the front fake pockets, but I have included the front fake fly – not sure why!

The wide waistband, with elastic encased inside, makes these especially comfortable on my body. And the back yoke gives some shaping, while the pockets add detail. There’s a fair bit of stretch in this particular bengaline.  I notice in these photos that I need that stretch for my surprisingly muscular calves!  All that walking must do something.  These are probably size 12 although could be a 10; my waist and belly are about size 18 but the stretch percentage and the ability to cut the inside elastic to my preferred length seems to take care of that.  Remember that the waist is never seen; this size is comfortable and still gives me that close fit through the bum and the thighs.

From the Style Arc website: This slim leg easy fit pull-on jean features a wide waistband with inserted elastic for extra comfort. The faux pockets feature a horizontal design line which is top-stitched with a twin needle stitch. The faux fly also has a twin needle top stitch. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Stretch denim or any stretch woven with approx. 3% lycra.

My favourite Style Arc jeans pattern for my body is still the Misty, although I don’t sew that pattern quite as designed either; I use a separate waistband with elastic enclosed inside, and eliminate any detailing on the front of the jeans. However the Blakley is pretty good for me as well when I’m after a slim fitting jean.

Oh, I do like the Style Arc Simone knit cardigan.  This is the sixth time that I’ve sewn it (and there is actually now a seventh). It was first sewn in 2014, then again a couple of months later. I returned to the pattern twice in 2016, then again in 2019. I have often used ponte, but always think most fondly of the first one that I sewed in a light weight wool knit and wore until it completely gave up the ghost. That’s the fabric type that I’ve returned to this time.

Ugh, black is so hard to photograph when you want to see garment details! This is actually fabric that was bought from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 per metre table back in 2014 when I bought the yellow fabric that I sewed my first Simone in. It’s the same crushed wool blend jersey, just a different colourway. Some fabrics marinate in my stash for a long time.

The wrinkles inherent in the fabric make it an excellent layer to shove into my laptop bag when I’m travelling! I’ve actually worn this frequently since finishing it back in July. I sewed size 12, no alterations.

From the pattern website: This clever cardigan pattern has been designed so as the drape creates the pocket. An easy every day must have cardi. Make it with or without buttons. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Knit jersey, Slinky or any drapey knit. 15% to 20% stretch. It is open at the front so it just needs the stretch for the sleeves.

The inbuilt drapey pockets really are the highlight of this jacket, and they are surprisingly easy to sew.  I have a strong feeling that this pattern is likely to be pulled out every couple of years for as long as I keep sewing!

It’s another repeat pattern!  I first sewed the Style Arc Harper jacket in July 2014. I sewed it again in September 2014. The pattern has laid dormant since then, until I decided that I needed a simple knit cardigan that would travel well and fit into my work wardrobe.

Eight years later this is still a style that works for me. It’s an added bonus that it’s extremely straightforward to sew. As per the pattern website: This wonderful jacket is a must for all occasions. Easy to wear and easy to make, making it a perfect weekend project. FABRIC SUGGESTION Ponte, or any stable knit or woven fabric with some weight and drape.

This fabric is a wool blend that was a gift – I’m so glad that it’s finally become a garment! I made sure to sew the centre back collar seam in a way that fully enclosed any raw edges, as both sides of the seam can be visible in wear. The pattern suggests leaving raw edges – instead I added another couple of centimetres to those edges when I cut it out so that I could do a double folded hem.

The centre back seam adds some structure to what is essentially a very soft and unstructured garment. I sewed size 12, without alteration.

I still need to do a bit of work wardrobe styling with this jacket. The colour is quite unusual; it’s actually a maroon type of colour but reads a bit brown, especially with the marle type of effect that’s woven into it.  I need to try on a few outfits and see in which ways it best fits in to my wardrobe.