Month: July 2022

refashioning, sewing, teen

jeans to skirt

Stella recently asked for a denim skirt, jeans style but with a pleated skirt.  Some of her requests don’tprogress past the request stage, but this one became reality!

jeans to skirt

This is her inspiration photo, from her Pinterest ‘outfits I like’ board (which is very useful for me when attempting to sew or buy clothes for her).

jeans to skirt inspo photo

Once I looked at the photo I figured that I could make her a skirt from a pair of jeans! As it happened, I had a couple of small pairs of op-shopped jeans in my stash. They were originally planned for an upcycle into bags, but I wondered if one of them would work for Stella’s skirt. She tried on both pairs, claimed one pair to be worn as regular jeans (did you know that low waisted jeans were a thing again?) and said that I could transform the other.

jeans to skirt

I started off by just chopping the legs off the jeans through the crotch, just below the back pockets. This then entailed some unpicking and resewing of the bottom couple of inches of centre front and back yoke seams to straighten them out a bit. After Stella tried on the jeans yoke, she asked that it be shortened even further – rendering my unpicking and resewing redundant! I opened up each of the legs into flat fabric and cut out a length of fabric on the grainline of each one. Then I sewed the two lengths into a loop, and started on sewing maths. I subtracted the circumference of the yoke from the circumference of the skirt strip, worked out how many pleats I wanted, and then divided the difference between the two circumferences by the number of pleats to work out how deep each pleat needed to be.

jeans to skirt

Had I already mentioned low waisted jeans? As it turned out, when Stella tried on the skirt it didn’t fit according to her vision. The proportions weren’t right to wear it on her hips, but that was where it needed to go to fit properly. She yanked it up to sit at her waist, and it looked way better, other than the waist being way too large.

jeans to skirt

At first we thought that she could just wear it with a belt, but then I took a better look inside the waistband and realised that it had buttons inside it – and adjustable waist elastic! These jeans were a children’s brand! I fished around and found the elastic, and simply tightened it up until it was the right measurement for Stella. And now it’s part of her wardrobe!

jeans to skirt

Stella is an avid gamer – Minecraft, Zelda, Animal Crossing, Sims, other things I can’t remember the name of – and enjoys dressing her Sim in outfits that she’d like. I think we’ve done pretty well matching the vibe of this one!

jeans to skirt inspo

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Verona Jacket

Tessuti have a number of patterns specifically designed to be used with boiled wool.  They utilise overlapped seams and leave edges raw.  This makes them quite quick to sew, but the construction technique takes a little bit of getting used to.  Once you’re in the groove they’re actually quite straightforward.

Tessuti Verona jacket in boiled wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

This time around I sewed the Verona jacket. Tessuti describe it as follows: The cropped & boxy Verona Jacket features extended shoulders, peaked hemline at front, collar, front shoulder darts and two-piece bracelet length sleeve. This jacket can be worn open or secured at the neck with a decorative pin. A quick and easy sew and perfect layering piece for the autumn/winter months. As seams are overlapped, and edges and hems are left raw, the Verona Jacket is best made up in boiled felted wools or wool/blends.

I chose to sew size Medium, which is one size smaller than the Large that my measurements suggest.

Tessuti Verona jacket in boiled wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

More time is spent at the table pinning the pieces together than at the machine doing the sewing. It helps to have a large flat surface at the right height for you to lay things out. There’s no overlocker needed to make this jacket; all construction is with a straight stitch on the sewing machine.

Tessuti Verona jacket in boiled wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

The boiled wool came from Super Cheap Fabrics. Dusty pink has really been appealing to me lately! They don’t seem to have this colour in stock at the moment, but I have also seen gorgeous boiled wools at The Cloth Shop and Darn Cheap Fabrics. Note that boiled wool comes in a variety of fibre blends – some are 100% wool, others have polyester or viscose mixed in.

Tessuti Verona jacket in boiled wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

In these photos I am wearing my Verona jacket over an Aldi merino long-sleeved tee (no, I don’t sew everything that I wear) and a newly made pair of Style Arc Misty jeans. This really is my go-to pull-on jeans style pattern. I simplify it nowadays by eliminating the front ‘pockets’ completely, and I add a wide waistband with elastic enclosed inside it rather than the exposed elastic waistband treatment in the pattern. This pair is sewn in textured charcoal coloured bengaline from Super Cheap Fabrics.

Tessuti Verona jacket in boiled wool from Super Cheap Fabrics

Writing this blog post is making me want to sew another raw edge wool garment! My Sydney jacket is still going strong, but my Berlin jacket is now in a friend’s wardrobe, purely because the colour was too intense for me. I have some wool/cashmere earmarked for the Tessuti Oslo coat at the moment, but it’s a traditional lined coat. Before I get back to jackets and coats I have some outstanding projects to finish – and I’m heading off to a sewing retreat this weekend, so let’s see what gets made!

adult's clothing, de Linum, sewing

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

You might remember the first garment I sewed as part of my partnership with de Linum linen, where they supply the fabric and pattern of my choice in exchange for a blog and instagram post.  Here’s my June project, finally blogged one week into July!  Whoops.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

This is the Style Arc Anais woven dress. It is described as follows:
Long line shirt dress featuring long sleeves, shirt tails, collar and pockets.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

Product Description
Shirt style long line dress
Shirt tail hemline.
Easy fit.
Raglan sleeves with fold back cuff.
Inseam pockets.
Left breast pocket.
One piece collar.
Buttoned front.
Slight hi-low hem line

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

Fabric Suggestion
Washed linen, rayon, crepe, silk.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

I chose to sew my dress in De Linum‘s Khaki Green self-check linen. It’s a french flax linen, 143 GSM, and has a beautiful pattern of squares woven into it. Just lovely.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

I sewed size 12, but folded 2 inches out of the body length at the shorten/lengthen line. I also did a forward shoulder alteration – very simple in a two-piece raglan sleeve like this. It was pretty much the alteration described here. After wearing this and having seen these photos, I am going to alter the over shoulder seamline to flatten it out a bit. My shoulders are much more sloping than squared, and at the moment there is too much curve along the top of my shoulder. They would accommodate raglan shoulder pads nicely, if that’s your style.  Fortunately for me, removing some of the curve at the top of the arm will be an easy fix.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

The pattern page has this dress styled as an outer layer, so I gave that a go and popped it on over a knit jumper, pants and boots, and wore it out for lunch with friends. I really like the look, but linen really isn’t warm enough as an outer layer for Melbourne winter! That said, it opened my eyes a bit to the versatility of a button front, collared dress. Generally I wear my clothes ‘as is’. I don’t really play around with them all that much, and tend to just wear them in the most obvious traditional ways. Maybe I can change that up a bit! There’s plenty of volume as you get closer to the hem, which was nicely highlighted by the wind.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

There are side seam pockets. I like the way that Style Arc had me construct the pockets, with one pocket bag sewn to the front of the dress, then the other pocket bag sewn to the first. This is in contrast to the common method of sewing one pocket bag to the front and the other to the back then matching them up when the side seams are sewn. I just think that they sit more nicely done the way that Style Arc suggested, although you do have to be extra careful when sewing the side seams that the pocket opening isn’t inadventently stitched closed.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

That long seamline along the shoulder and outer arm allows for better fitting (as I’ve already mentioned, something that I need to go back and do). The cuff can be worn straight, pushed up, or folded back. I interfaced the cuff and one layer of the collar, but the amount of interfacing that you need really depends on the weight of your fabric and the look that you are going for. The metal buttons were from a local op shop – I was very pleased to find them in my stash! Buttons with two holes can be easily sewn on by machine, which was appreciated considering there were 8 of them. My machine has a manual four step buttonhole, so I have to pay attention when stitching. I reckon that I got them pretty even.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

This dress is likely to get quite a lot of wear. The colour goes well with my extensive shoe, scarf and necklace collection, and the temperature is appropriate for long sleeved linen for at least half of the year. It’s hard to go wrong with linen.

Style Arc Anais dress in De Linum linen

I have my third de Linum project picked out – can you guess what it is going to be?