Month: July 2020

adult's clothing, Helen's Closet Patterns, sewing

Helen’s Closet Pona Jacket

I had plenty of teal textured stretch bengaline left over from my Style Arc Cassie pants.  I really like teal – I think that it’s a colour that works well with many others, and looks good on most people.  I also think that it’s going to work as well with my greying hair as it did with my red hair.  Originally I considered sewing a pinafore from the leftovers, then I realised that I actually had a bit of a wardrobe gap (anyone who’s seen how much is in my wardrobe would laugh at that) for a teal mid-weight, woven jacket.

Helens Closet Pona jacket

I looked at many, many patterns when before making a decision on which one to use. I wanted something shortish, casual, unlined, and with a fairly open collar. After rifling through my extensive paper pattern and pdf pattern stash, there was nothing that quite ticked all the boxes. When the Helen’s Closet Pona Jacket was first released I didn’t particularly like the size and proportions of the lapels. However, I took another look at it and decided that it might actually be just the right pattern for my fabric.

Helens Closet Pona jacket

I really enjoyed sewing this jacket. It’s size 12, without alteration. I decided that I’d use a Hong Kong finish on the facing edges, as they were likely to be exposed at some stage considering that this jacket is unlined. I also added a little hanging loop. The bias strips are cut from Japanese cotton leftover from a dress that I made years ago (and still love).

Helens Closet Pona jacket

Does anyone else like to sew in components? I assembled the facings first, then the collar pieces, then the pockets. Construction of the body of the jacket came next – and all those components were ready when it was time to add them.

Helens Closet Pona jacket

From the pattern website: The Pona Jacket is a modern outer layer that is easy to make and style. An extra-wide facing allows this unlined jacket to drape open in the front, no closures necessary! Pona has an oversized blazer feel, complete with pockets and a statement lapel. Make a modern, cropped Pona in linen for warmer weather or a longer jacket in wool for fall and winter. Pona is a perfect beginner jacket pattern! Recommended Fabrics: Light to medium weight fabrics with no stretch, such as mid-weight linen or cotton, corduroy, and wool. Pona can be made in a lighter-weight, drapey fabric such as Tencel twill for a more fluid look.

Pona jacket line drawing2

Clearly I didn’t stick exactly to the fabric recommendations – they are for a fabric with no stretch. However, I think that this stretch woven has worked really well in this jacket! I did of course take the stretch into account while sewing, with more pins than usual, and seams stitched on the machine. I finished seam allowances with the overlocker when not using a Hong Kong finish. As is always the case with Helen’s Closet patterns, the instructions are excellent. There are clear, helpful diagrams, and the language that is used is also easy to understand. I highly recommend these patterns to beginners.

Helens Closet Pona jacket

The eagle eyed among you may have realised that the pants I am wearing in these photos are sewn from the same fabric as the jacket, just in a different colourway!

Helens Closet Pona jacket

The large lapels on this jacket have really grown on me. I often find that it’s just about ‘getting my eye in’ with new designs; the more that we are exposed to a particular style, the more we like it (most of the time). This pattern will definitely get another outing. I might give the longer line jacket a go, maybe in a linen type of fabric as suggested. Wait and see! Casual coats and jackets work best with my lifestyle; I don’t need anything fitted or that feels at all restrictive.

Helens Closet Pona jacket

sewing

More adventures in mask making

So, we’re now a few days into mandatory mask wearing, and Melbourne, I must say that I’m impressed!  Almost everyone had a mask on at the supermarket on Thursday morning (I assume that those who didn’t have an exemption for medical reasons).  Although it is still a bit confrontingt to me to see everyone in a mask, and it’s still a bit uncomfortable for me to wear one, I am sure that we’ll get used to it very quickly.  Cutting transmission of covid-19 is so important; it’s worth the relatively minor inconvenience.  And it’s been interesting to see all the different masks that people are wearing! This tweet pretty much sums it up 😉

2020-07-24 15.19.12 I have tried a couple more patterns, so am recording them here for posterity. I will copy the content of this blog post onto the mask making page that is now a separate page under my blog header, to make it easier to find.

Hybrid nose2 mask

This mask has become Clare’s favourite. It sits up nice and high across her nose and cheeks, so that her glasses hold it flat to her face and there’s no warm breath escaping out the top to fog them up. No nose wire. The pattern is by Iris Luckhaus. She has a number of variations of what she calls the Hybrid face mask. The first version can be found here: the ones that I have been sewing are called the Hybrid Nose2 mask, and can be found on this page. I like this one as it comes up higher on the nose rather than sitting on the tip of it – but like all masks, it really is each to their own. Iris writes very detailed posts about masks; she includes information on different mask types, ways to tie a mask, why her mask works well, and the instructions and patterns are excellent.  They come in a number of sizes, and the customised hybrid masks include nose masks, chin masks, beard masks, and information on adapting the pattern for different width faces. That said, I am only making the one style – it seems to work on many people.

Hybrid nose2 mask

I’ve actually sewn thirty-four of these – who’s counting 😉 – to give to family and friends. I am roughly tracking how long it takes me to sew a fabric mask. Mine are three layered masks. I reckon that it takes between twenty and thirty minutes to sew a mask. When you factor in the cost of equipment and supplies, the skill of the sewer, their time, and the need to make a profit, I am not at all surprised that hand-made masks are selling for around $25 each.

Hybrid nose2 mask

As far as ties are concerned, it’s all about knit fabric ties for me! There is a tutorial on how to make there here if you’d like one, but it’s pretty simple – cut a strip of knit fabric (preferably one with a bit of spandex) about one inch wide, then stretch! The edges curl inwards. When giving masks to others I tend to leave the ties long, so that they can go around the back of the head and be adjusted to fit. If that’s not what people want they can simply cut the tie in half and turn it into ear loops (that’s how I do them for Clare and her school friends; the ear loops are their preference – I suspect so that they don’t interfere with their hair styles). I tie a simple knot that the recipient can easily adjust to their own preference and trim off any excess. And if they prefer a different type of tie, it’s easy to replace when the mask has casings rather than ties that are sewn in.

Stitch Odyssey tutorial mask

This mask pattern piqued my interest because I liked the use contrasting fabrics! I saw it on a tutorial by Marie of Stitch Odyssey on Instagram. She’s done an English language version of the original YouTube tutorial by Romilda Dias, which is in Portugese. I added an additional layer of fabric to the centre panel to make it three layers as per our health department recommendations (I use a synthetic lining fabric for it’s electrostatic and slightly water repellent qualities).

Stitch Odyssey tutorial mask

This one is certainly easy to sew, and it is satisfying to play with coordinating and contrasting fabrics. However, we still need to see how it goes for long-term wear.  These are shirting cottons.

Stitch Odyssey tutorial mask

We have a few commercial surgical masks in the glove box of the car for those times when we forget one of our fabric ones (we also keep hand sanitiser in the car). I wore one briefly to collect some take-away food and my glasses fogged up within moments, and pretty much stayed that way! For anything other than very brief wear I’m definitely going to need a fabric mask.

Clare takes a zip-lock bag to school with her to put her used masks in.  When we get home from being out we go straight to the laundry and pop our masks into a lingerie bag.  The bag then gets tossed into the wash the following morning (I do at least one load of washing each day, so it’s nothing extra).  I shake and smooth each mask into shape, then hang it on the ends of the clothes horse to dry over a heating vent.  Once the weather warms up again I’ll line dry them.  I do then give them an iron to keep the pleats in place and the mask as comfortable as possible for wear.  You need a few masks per person so that you know you’ve always got a clean one.

I’d also like to draw your attention to another mask pattern, this one by Pattern Union which is designed for scuba type fabrics. It can be hand or machine sewn. I’m at peak mask making fatigue now, and am not going to try it, but I’d be interested in feedback from anyone who does.  And now I’m very much looking forward to getting back to sewing FUN things.

bags, leatherwork

Laced leather bag

Back in June, during that brief period between lockdowns, I attended a day course for beginners at Leffler Leather in leather stamping and lacing.  My lovely sister-in-law Jeanette did the course with me.  Both of us were complete novices when it came to this type of leather work.

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

We began our day with an introduction to the tools used for stamping, then we all went for it banging designs onto a leather coaster. It’s fun being back at the beginning of a learning curve – you know that you’re going to make plenty of mistakes that what you are doing will be far from perfect, and in a weird way that takes the pressure off!

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

Then we moved on to lacing. Although the leather was mostly pre-cut, we still needed to measure and punch all of the holes, and cut some additional pieces. The whole process was a little more organic than the way that I am used to working – I am very much an instruction following type of person. It’s always a pleasure for me to craft along with Jeanette, who has taken up sewing in recent years and just launches herself fearlessly into things and just gives them a go, learns from mistakes, and moves on!

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

We were also treated to a tour of the warehouse. So many leathers, used in so many industries, from so many countries, tanned in so many different ways. The business began back in 1932, and service a diverse range of customers.

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

I didn’t quite manage to finish my bag during the class time allowed. All the lacing was done, but it still needed a strap attached. I came home with the strapping, knowing that I already had some hardware and basic tools at home from other bag-making activities. But Jeanette finished hers – she even managed to stamp a simple design onto it as well.

Stamping and lacing class at Leffler Leather

Leffler leather stamping and lacing class

It took me until last weekend to get around to adding the strap. I’m still not sure whether I will leave the strap as it is, or alter the way it’s attached. Anyway, better done than perfect!  And there is something extremely satisfying about banging in those rivets.

Leffler leather stamping and lacing class

Leffler Leather lacing class bag

It’s great to try something new every now and then, and a class can be a really fun way to explore crafts.  I did a one day macrame necklace course a couple of years ago, which was really enjoyable in a similar way.  I’m not likely to swap from garment sewing to leatherwork, but am very pleased to have dabbled.  It’s especially satisfying to have a finished product at the end.

 

adult's clothing, sewing

Fantail sweatshirt the second

I have sewn this pattern four times now!  Four!  I’ve sewn the woven version twice, and this is my second using the sweatshirt option.

The Sewing Revival Fantail sweatshirt in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Because I’ve blogged the previous versions I will keep this blog post fairly short and sweet.

The Sewing Revival Fantail sweatshirt in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Pattern: Fantail shirt and sweatshirt, by The Sewing Revival.
Fabric: Viscose/nylon/spandex knit, from Darn Cheap Fabrics (currently available online)
Contrast: Brown rib knit from stash
Size: Medium, sleeves shortened about two inches, no other alterations
Construction: Overlocker throughout.

The Sewing Revival Fantail sweatshirt in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Neckband: Getting knit neckbands right takes practice, practice, practice, but I also highly recommend this tutorial.

The Sewing Revival Fantail sweatshirt in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Use the recommended wide elastic in the gathered front feature; narrow elastic simply won’t have the same effect.

The Sewing Revival Fantail sweatshirt in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Last time I sewed this I also topstitched the seam allowances where the rib was attached. I didn’t do that this time around – this very soft knit wouldn’t have responded well. Remember to consider your sewing techniques depending on the fabrics that you are working with.

The Sewing Revival Fantail sweatshirt in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Four tops from this pattern is probably enough for now, especially considering that they’ve all been sewn within a year!

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Besharl jacket the second

Firstly, thanks to all those who commented on my mask-making blog post.  I’m glad that you’ve found it useful – remember, any fabric mask is better than no mask!  Wearing a mask is more about preventing you from inadvertently giving covid-19 to others than it is about stopping you from catching it yourself (although it will definitely help with that too).  Let’s all work together and do this for the good of our communities.

I first sewed the Style Arc Besharl jacket in September 2017.  Some patterns get a second use almost immediately after the first; this one has waited almost three years!

Style Arc Besharl jacket in woven from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The fabric is from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe; it was the end of the bolt, so I didn’t have much of it. It’s a woven, three different coloured threads woven together, but reads as grey overall. I don’t fully remember the composition but think that it has some viscose in it. It wasn’t bought with a particular pattern in mind, but I do feel that this one has been the perfect match for it.

Style Arc Besharl jacket in woven from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

Let’s look a bit closer! The original pattern has a curved back hemline; for this jacket I straightened that out.  I also decided to sew the pocket bags to the front of the jacket to stop them from flapping around.  Having the pockets located as high as they are in the side seams means that they’re not terribly useful or comfortable for hands, but they’re still good for keys or a phone.

Style Arc Besharl jacket in woven from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

From the pattern website: This style is the perfect solution to dress up outer wear whether you are off to a sporting event or out to dinner. Slightly cocooned shaped and dropped back hemline gives this shawl collared jacket a fashionable robe-style look. A must have jacket for your wardrobe. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Cashmere, merino wool or boiled wool, Ponte, sweater knit or any fabric with drape.

besharl-jacket

There are actually plenty of examples of this jacket on sewing blogs and on Instagram – it’s been quite popular. It seems to work well in a variety of fabrics. I do think that it looks best in something with drape, as suggested, but it doesn’t have to be a knit fabric. Mie of Sewing Like Mad has a terrific blog post on this jacket that includes some tips and tricks – it’s definitely worth a read.

Style Arc Besharl jacket in woven from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

I have discovered that I quite like jackets with elbow length sleeves. Maybe it’s my perimenopausal age! This is a straightforward jacket to sew, with most construction on the overlocker. I sewed size 12. I also topstitched a number of the seam allowances down, both for stability and to add detail. The collar is a wide straight strip of fabric that turns back on itself around the neck. This type of collar never sits perfectly on me at the back neck – it’s that high rounded upper back / forward head thing again – but in this soft woven it’s actually pretty good. This jacket counts as a definite success and welcome wardrobe addition.

Style Arc Besharl jacket in woven from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

The rest of my outfit is Style Arc Misty jeans in black stretch denim (I’ve been sewing the Misty jeans since 2015; they’re my favourite Style Arc jeans pattern), Cashmerette Concord tee, and in the first photo a colour-blocked boiled wool scarf from this tutorial.

sewing

Adventures in mask making

I’ve had quite a few friends ask me about making masks, so am putting together what I have discovered into this one blog post for easy reference.  As many of you know, Melbourne is currently in it’s second lockdown period while we attempt to prevent further community spread of covid-19.  This time around we’ve been asked to wear masks when we’re in public places where it might be difficult to keep a distance of 1.5m from other people.  So those of us who know how to sew have been sewing.

The Victorian government have some mask guidelines.  It is acknowledged that reusable masks are a help; they are scientifically shown to reduce the chance of transmitting the virus (mask wearing is more about protecting others than about protecting yourself).  We’re not pretending that they’re going to be quite as effective as properly worn and used medical grade masks, but every little bit helps.  There’s a good discussion about masks here and here on the Coronacast podcast.

Personally, I don’t like wearing these masks, for a plethora of reasons.  But I will wear masks when out, and my whole family have been, because it’s our responsibility to work together as a community.  We must do what’s needed for the common good at the moment – to state the obvious, it’s a pandemic!

Adventures in mask making

As you would imagine, a plethora of patterns and tutorials are available for a variety of masks in a variety of styles.  I’m not covering everything in this blog post.  Google is your friend (other than google that leads you to conspiracy theories or articles that prefer to ignore science in favour of politics).  It is clear to me that different people prefer different styles of masks – it’s quite individual and possibly depends on face shape and size.  They also have different fastening preferences.  You do you. There are three main types of reusable masks:

  • Flat with some pleats (like a fabric version of a surgical mask)
  • ‘Origami’ style
  • Fitted/shaped (I think they’re technically called Olsen masks)

I’ll go through each type with links to patterns that I have tried.

Adventures in mask making

Clare quite likes the flat with pleats style. This tutorial gives you an outline of how to sew them. I found that there was less bulk if I sewed separate casings on to each side rather than turned the sides in to form casings because of the bulk of the pleats.

Adventures in mask making

Adventures in mask making

Clare and I like masks where there is enough fabric to sit flat against our face and nose once we’ve put our glasses on the top of them. They’re loose enough at the sides so that we can breathe relatively easily (fabric masks are not meant to have a tight seal the whole way around; it’s a balance between fit against the face and comfort – which includes breathing, unsurprisingly).

Adventures in mask making

The mask in the photo above didn’t work well for Clare – the elastic is too wide and pulls against her ears. You can see the pleats though. The next style that we tried was a fitted/shaped mask. We tried a few patterns. The Dhurata Davies pattern is very popular on Instagram. It has darts for the nose and the chin. But you can see in the photo below that this one fogged up my glasses straight away.

Adventures in mask making

We had much more success with the Twig and Tale panel mask.  This is Dan’s preferred style and pattern.

Adventures in mask making

This one has a pocket in it to add a filter if you’re keen (we’re not adding them at this stage) and has a wire to shape around the nose bridge in the top. I used three plastic coated twist ties together for the wire – I found a heap of them in the bottom of a kitchen drawer. Different people use different types of wires to aid in shaping the mask to their nose bridge. I actually prefer my masks without the wire, but Dan likes it in his.

Adventures in mask making

Other fitted/panel style masks that others have recommended include the Marfy mask, the Mimi G mask, and the Craft Passion mask. Many of these mask patterns have associated YouTube tutorials. The Ann Benson mask also looks interesting, but I haven’t tried it.

My preferred style of mask is the origami type of mask. Actually, the very first mask that I sewed was the Aplat mask!

Adventures in mask making

Adventures in mask making

I then moved on to the Summer Face Mask tutorial, which is on YouTube. This is one that I have used quite extensively.

Adventures in mask making

Adventures in mask making

A similar pattern is the 7 Pine Design origami face mask, and once again there are a plethora of YouTube tutorials for this style.

Adventures in mask making

I also gave this contoured orgami-style variation from the Japanese Sewing Books blog a go, in foiled denim for a bit of farshun.

Adventures in mask making

Adventures in mask making

So, there are some patterns for you to consider. I also experimented a bit with fabrics throughout my mask sewing ‘journey’. I have ended up with a preference for three layers of fabric as a maxium. Maybe something like a twill or a denim or a medium weight quilting cotton for the outer, a lining type fabric or a lightweight knit for a middle layer (you can leave out the middle layer), and something soft and cotton for the inner lining layer (like flannelette or smooth cotton). I find that flannelette is good as it absorbs the moisture from my breath before it has the chance to fog up my glasses.

Adventures in mask making

Adventures in mask making

Then you need to consider how you want to keep the mask on your head. What works best seems to depend on your head size/shape, and your hairstyle! Elastic cord works well for Dan’s masks, but the girls and I prefer ‘t-shirt elastic’. These are strips cut from lengths of cotton/lycra knit about one inch wide, that you then pull and it rolls inwards. These work well for ties around the back of the head and for ear loops (the girls prefer ear loops).

Some other handy links:
How to tie a surgical mask to prevent fogging
No fog mask hack
A simple method to prevent glasses from fogging when wearing a mask

I have my fingers crossed that I never have to sew another mask again.  I intellectualised the process in order to make it bearable.  There’s no way to deny that we’re in a pandemic when you’re using your favourite hobby to sew masks because of it.  Anyway, I hope that this blog post proves useful to some readers.  To finish off with a giggle, my family had a few seconds of mask-related fame on breakfast tv this week.

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat – again!

You guessed it – I didn’t fold up and put away the Clear It french terry left over from sewing Clare and Stella a new top each.  Instead, I rifled through my stash to find a pattern that would fit on what was left over.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

It’s only about three months since I first sewed the Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat. It was the perfect choice of pattern for the lightweight french terry.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

Because I’d sewn this recently it was very fast for me to sew up a second time. I did remember to sew the sleeve cuff on in the round after the side seams were sewn, instead of before as per the instructions.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

From the Style Arc website: This rolled cuff short sleeve sweat is perfect for Spring days but also perfect for layering for cooler temperatures. Slightly oversized fit with a square shape, hi-low hemline and side splits. The lux top is ideal for all occasions. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Fleece, unbrushed fleece or sweater knit.

portsea-luxe-sweat

Once again I sewed size 12, without alteration. Construction was on the overlocker, with the machine used for topstitching.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

I tossed up finishing the side splits with woven tape, an option that is outlined in the instructions, but in the end I went with the lazy option and just finished the side splits with topstitching. I do think that the woven tape finish would strengthen and support the splits, especially given that the hem bands are a double layer, but the simple topstitching seems to work fine.

Style Arc Portsea Luxe Sweat in french terry from Clear It

This is a great relaxed design to wear as a short-sleeved top or as an additional layer over a long-sleeved top. And that’s all the french terry used up!  I decided against adding a transfer to my top 😉

adult's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, teen, tween

Pattern Emporium Unwind sweater

After sewing Clare’s french terry top, I couldn’t be bothered folding up the fabric and putting it away.  Height of laziness!  There was still plenty, and it seemed logical to use up some more.

Pattern Emporium Unwind sweater

The recently released Pattern Emporium Unwind Sweater-Jumper-Hoodie pattern seemed to be an obvious choice to pair with lightweight french terry. From the pattern website: Sweater, jumper*, sweatshirt, windcheater, sloppy-joe or pullover. Whatever you want to call it, the Unwind is pure comfort. It’s so easy going & relaxed you’re going to want to wear one all the time, in #allthefabrics and #allthestyles. And one of the best things… when it comes to choosing fabrics, there really isn’t a right or wrong. She works in both 2-way & 4-way stretch. Winter & Summer. Everything about the Unwind is relaxed: the fit, the cuffs and the hem band. All are designed to hang & move freely on the body unlike the more hugging band styles that you may be more familiar with. *AUSSIE TRANSLATION: In Australia we refer to a ‘sweater’ as a jumper. A ‘sweatshirt’ is called a sloppy joe, windcheater & even jumper. Universally, a hoodie is a hoodie.

  • Easy fit batwing shape.
  • Body & sleeve all in one.
  • 4 Necklines – crew, relaxed, turtle, hood.
  • 3 Sleeves – cuffed long & 1/2 sleeve, short sleeve.
  • Relaxed cuff & hem band.
  • 3 Lengths – cropped, hip & long length.
  • Designed for stretch knit fabrics.
  • Regular & tall cutting lines.
  • Trans-seasonal.
  • Lots of pattern hack/mash options.

Unwind sweater line drawing

When this pattern was first released I thought ‘nah, I have a million relaxed top patterns in my stash’.  Turns out that I had room for a million and one more.  I think that a clincher for me was the size range – this one starts at teen size 4, and goes up to size 24.  The size 4 was perfect for Stella.

Pattern Emporium Unwind sweater

Stella chose the long cuffed sleeve version, at the cropped length. As you can see it’s not super cropped – rather, it’s just below the waist. She also wanted the plain crew neckline (I suggested the hoodie, but was outvoted).  This was incredibly fast to sew, as you’d imagine. Front and back shoulder seams, neck band added, side seams sewn, hem band and sleeve cuffs added.  I did remember to have her try on the top for sleeve length before adding the sleeve cuffs, and had to cut about two inches off the sleeve length.

Pattern Emporium Unwind sweater

I used the overlocker for construction, but as per usual used my sewing machine to topstitch down the seam allowances to add some detail and structure. In this case it included alongside the shoulder/sleeve seam. I also popped a little Kylie and the Machine label into the side seam.

Pattern Emporium Unwind sweater

And then there’s the transfer! This is another iron-on transfer from Spotlight (you can buy them online; no need for an ‘essential’ in-person visit to the shops at the moment). I followed the instructions to iron it on with a decent amount of pressure, and it’s stood up nicely to a couple of trips through the washing machine since. These transfers really are a nice way to ‘fancy’ up an otherwise very plain garment.

Pattern Emporium Unwind sweater

After sewing this top, there was still french terry left over that I couldn’t be bothered folding up and putting away……

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Top for Clare

My sewing machines were back from being serviced just in time for some school holiday sewing.  This top for Clare was a complete impulse sew.

top traced from RTW with Spotlight transfer

When we were in Borneo in January (gee, that feels like a different lifetime ago) Clare bought a cropped sweatshirt style top that she’s really enjoyed wearing. I pulled it out of her wardrobe and traced around it to make a pattern to copy. So simple! Then I dived into my stash and found a rather large piece of Clear It french terry that I knew would be perfect.

top traced from RTW with Spotlight transfer

Front, back sleeves, cuffs, hem band and neck band. Construction was all on the overlocker, with the band seam allowances secured with topstitching. And the final touch? A transfer!

top traced from RTW with Spotlight transfer

The Jocelyn Proust transfer came from Spotlight – I ordered a few online during a recent sale. It was surprisingly easy to iron on, and it’s held up well through a few washes.

top traced from RTW with Spotlight transfer

Clare likes that it finishes at her waist, and that the hemline isn’t super wide (the side seams angle in a bit from the underarm toward the hemline). It’s a nice light extra layer. It’s very difficult to capture the colour of the fabric accurately on the screen – in real life it’s a blue that is very close to purple; maybe lavender is a good description!

top traced from RTW with Spotlight transfer

I didn’t use up all the fabric on this top….stay tuned for my next blog post!

adult's clothing, sewing

Sewaholic Renfrew tee – in stripes

If my memory serves me correctly, Sewaholic was one of the early independent sewing pattern companies that popped up near the beginning of my blogging days (I’m now into my fourteenth year of blogging).  They were wildly popular, but after some time the business was sold, and I don’t remember hearing anything from them since.  A quick google has revealed that the website is still operational, and the patterns are still available.  One of my favourite Sewaholic patterns is the Renfrew tee.

Sewaholic Renfrew tee in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

My version of the pattern is highly customised in terms of the grading between sizes and the body shaping. I can’t even remember what sizes it encompasses. Essentially I removed any waist shaping.

Sewaholic Renfrew tee in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The fabric is from Darn Cheap Fabrics, a recent purchase. It’s a terrific winter weight, thicker than a regular jersey.  It’s a viscose/nylon/spandex knit, and is currently still available on their website. Obviously, it’s a stripe – which means stripe matching!

Sewaholic Renfrew tee in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

To match stripes well you need to pay attention when you’re cutting out. Use a single layer where possible, and match up key points like the bottom hemline and the bottom of the armscye. I pinned about every third stripe when sewing (yes, I used the machine). This version of the Renfrew is finished with bands throughout, and I managed to get the hem band and the sleeve cuffs matching up with the stripe repeat. Can you even tell where the seam lines are?

Sewaholic Renfrew tee in striped knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Simple stripey satisfaction!

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