I have quite a few pieces of fabric in my stash that I think are particularly lovely.  I keep them together, often going through them and trying to think of which pattern would be perfect for each one.  Sometimes I pair them with patterns, only to separate them and put them away again, because something is telling me that the combination is not quite right.  Other times I put a piece of fabric and a pattern together and a spark ignites.  It’s just right!  The Goldilocks moment!  That’s how this garment came together.

The fabric is a jacquard lime/rust linen that was a birthday gift (oh how I love my sewing friends) but I think was purchased at The Drapery. Everything about it is perfect for me! And the pattern is the Style Arc Jules woven tunic.

I sewed size 12, which is my usual Style Arc top/dress size, but did a half inch forward shoulder adjustment. I have found that whenever I remember to do this adjustment (especially on wovens) my tops sit so much better! No more tugging them forward.

From the Style Arc website: Give your everyday wardrobe a refresh with this flattering tunic. A great piece to see you through the weekends and into the work week. Featuring a “V” neck with a front button opening and a 7/8th length sleeve. The lightly gathered skirt falls softly from the shaped under bust seam. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Washed linen, silk, crepe, soft cotton.

The hardest thing in making this tunic was deciding which side of the jacquard would be the ‘right’ side! Either would have been lovely; they’re not terribly different but one is slightly more green dominant and the other slightly more rust. I had lovely green buttons from Gaye at Notionally Better in stash that work beautifully with the fabric. Note that the buttons/buttonholes are placed as per the pattern; numbers three and four are meant to be closer together since they are above/below the seamline between the bodice and ‘skirt’. The bodice buttons are equidistant from one another, and so are the ‘skirt’ buttons.

I especially enjoyed sewing this tunic, and equally enjoyed wearing it last weekend. I think that it will work across a range of seasons depending on what is layered over/under it and whether the sleeves are rolled up or not. The sleeves have nice wide hems that will roll nicely, and the linen has that lovely ‘give’ that is characteristic of the fabric (along with those wrinkles).

This tunic could easily become a dress, either by just lengthening the ‘skirt’ pattern pieces or maybe by adding another tier of fabric to the bottom. I didn’t need to unbutton it to slip it on or off; there’s enough ease in the pattern for me to wriggle into it. I’ll definitely be using this pattern again.

In April the Australian Sewing Guild sent an email that advised the May challenge garment would be a cosy sweater-knit dress.  The suggested pattern was the Peppermint magazine Jersey Dress.  That was a bandwagon that I could jump on!  For some time a piece of hot pink floral printed ponte had been moving around my sewing stash.  It would get pulled out, put away again, pulled out again, put away again.  Both my daughters had rejected it as ‘a bit much’, and I had originally rejected it because I don’t generally wear hot pink.  But it was so soft and stretchy, yet substantial!  So squishy and cosy!  I presented three pattern options for the fabric to my Instagram followers – a sweatshirt, a pair of pants, and the Peppermint dress – and a considerable number thought that the dress would be the best option.  I’m so glad that I agreed with them, and quickly followed through.

First thing – I knew that I would need to somehow tone down the hot pink by using a different colour solid for the bands. Fortunately I had leftover ponte from a Blackwood cardigan that had the perfect green and still plenty of stretch! I find that ponte varies considerably – some is quite stiff and structured, while others has plenty of stretch. Much of it is down to the fibre composition. I have no clue what the composition of either of these fabrics is!

I’ve been trying hard to remember where I bought this floral knit, and have a feeling that it was from one of the little fabric shops on Sydney Road in Brunswick. The green was bought at Eliza Fabric in Sunshine. I chose to sew size 12 based on the finished garment measurements and shortened the length an inch and a half and the sleeves an inch.

I chose to do olive green topstitching throughout to both match the bands and to tone down the pink the slightest fraction. I really like the raglan fit through the upper chest and shoulders. The front neckline is about half an inch higher than I’d prefer, but it’s not uncomfortable.

The cut-on, in-seam pockets are wonderful. Really easy to sew, and they definitely stay in place! Most construction was on the overlocker, with the sewing machine just used for topstitching and stitching down the side seams near the pocket openings.

The pattern is a collaboration with In The Folds, which goes a long way to explaining why such a simple pattern is so well drafted and has such a great result.

I think that ‘cosywear’ is rather high on many people’s sewing lists at the moment – especially as the souther states of Australia moves through autumn and get closer to winter. I can throw on a scarf and a cardigan with this and with tights and boots should stay very comfortable.

When COVID-19 started to make an impact in Australia, I asked my friend Rachael, who is a nurse (and also a PhD doctor – she’s a clever cookie!) if she’d like a new scrub top for work. She said yes!

Rachael is a classic dresser. I knew that she wouldn’t want anything garish or brightly printed. Her work pants are navy. Knowing that whatever I sewed would need to withstand hot washing temperatures, but also be comfortable for a busy shift on the ward, I decided on linen. I had enough navy linen remnants in my stash to eke out all the pieces, in combination with the remnants of a subtly printed Japanese cotton that my sister-in-law had brought back from Japan for me a few years ago.

Jalie had offered the Eliane scrub top pattern at no cost for a short period of time early in the pandemic, and it proved to be the perfect pattern for Rachael. When I sent her a screenshot of the pattern her comment was ‘no wonder she’s smiling so broadly – check out all the pockets!’ Jalie describe it as mock wrap neck scrub top with princess seams, a style easy to adjust achieve a perfect fit. Short sleeves, yokes, elastic in the small of the back and side vents for a shaped, but comfortable top. Two double patch pockets big enough everything you need to carry.

I cut the pattern in accordance with Rachael’s measurements – I can’t remember now what size it was, but her proportions fitted perfectly into a single size – then had some fun doing tetris to get the pattern pieces out. There are actually three every so slightly different shades of navy linen in this top.  Rachael is rather tall, but I didn’t add any length to the pattern.  This version was intended to be a ‘wearable muslin’.

It wasn’t a quick sew, but was a very enjoyable one. There are lots of pieces and lovely details., and it’s always a joy to sew with linen.  The neckline doesn’t actually wrap across – it’s all sewn in place. The elastic at the back waistline really adds to a comfortable fit. And the pockets!

The pockets are a double layer, and there are pen/scissor channels stitched in each of them as well. The side seam vents allow for movement. It really does seem as though Jalie thought of everything when designing this scrub top!

I managed to get Rachael to send me a few action shots, and to give me feedback on how it was in wear and what might need changes next time.

She was ecstatic about the pockets, as they meant that she didn’t need to wear the ‘utility’ belt that she usually wears to hold all the bits and pieces that she needs to have with her. She did say that it could do with a loop for her to attach her hospital ID card to, as it is used constantly to open cupboards/drawers etc so needs to be easily accessible. Rachael would also like the neckline made about half an inch higher. She’d still be able to get it on and off easily, but there would be less chance of her patients seeing more than intended as she bends over them to care for them.

Apparently her colleagues were pretty impressed with her new top too, so I feel rather chuffed! It was lovely sewing something so specific for a friend who really needed it. I really enjoyed making sure that it would not only be practical but would fit with her style and aesthetic.  As it turns out this ‘wearable muslin’ is pretty close to perfect!