Over the years I have discovered that as much as I love flicking through sewing pattern books, I rarely actually sew any of the garments they contain.  Yes, they’re great value – so many patterns for the price! – but they also require tracing of pattern pieces, often from large sheets with multiple overlapping lines.  Over the years I have also discovered that I am fairly lazy when it comes to tracing patterns.  I just don’t do it.  I have good intentions (Burda and Ottobre magazines, I’m looking at you!) but I very very rarely actually get around to tracing.  And as most of you know, I’m firmly in the cut out the printed pattern camp, even with vintage patterns.  Because I’d made that discovery, I’ve drastically reduced the number of pattern books that I buy.  I am happy to buy books on sewing techniques, but rarely buy one for the patterns.  However, I saw Anna‘s Kinder cardigan and Longshaw skirt, and promptly bought a copy of Wendy Ward‘s book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics.

However, the first garment that I sewed from the book wasn’t either the Kinder cardigan or Longshaw skirt – it was the Derwent trouser!  There was a sewn up sample at The Cloth Shop, (they always have the BEST garment samples) and that was the clincher for me.  Take two pattern pieces, some beautiful medium weight dark green marle viscose ponte, some wide elastic, and voila, a fabulous pair of winter trousers in approximately an hour!

I chose pattern size based on my hip measurement, traced the pattern pieces, adding length after checking how long my current trousers are, then did a full belly alteration to the front pattern piece. This was a straightforward slash and spread, making a cut from the waistline down about six or seven inches then spreading it an inch at the waistline. That added another couple of inches to the front waist and belly area without affecting the bum and hips.

The waist is finished with a wide elastic facing, sewn to the top of the waistline then turned to the inside and secured with stitches through the seamlines. The deep hem was secured with a machine blindstitch. I prefer deep hems on wide leg pants.

In this photo it really looks as though I have a major wedgie, but these have been worn quite a few times and certainly don’t feel that way! I might check the back crotch curve of this pattern against the back crotch curve of my Fifi pants, and compare them. Honestly, if I hadn’t seen this photo I wouldn’t have had any idea.

The top I’m wearing is the Style Arc Kylie top, blogged here. It’s a favourite! However, I want to point out the colour-blocked boiled wool scarf. I sewed it following directions in this tutorial. The boiled wool is from The Cloth Shop. It’s lots of fun choosing colour combinations, and it’s a straightforward sew and very warm to wear. I’ve also sewed a wedgewood blue and grey version that I gave to my sister-in-law for her 60th.

This outfit feels very ‘me’. I find it a bit difficult to choose the right tops to go with wide-legged pants, but this one seems to work.  As always, it’s about getting the proportions right for your body – and feeling comfortable and yourself in the total outfit.

Enough of tops, let’s look at some pants!  This pair was constructed at Sewjourn a month or so ago.  The pattern is the Style Arc Fifi woven pant.  And before I show you photos – I didn’t sew the top, it was handed down to me from my cousin.

Using a phone camera to take blog photos does mean that the proportions are a bit skewed – things tend to get foreshortened, even though we do try to stand apart enough for that to be semi compensated for. You wouldn’t know from most of my photos that most of my 158cm height is actually in my legs, and that my torso is actually the short part of me; you’ll just have to believe me!

First thing I have to say – I LOVE these pants! Because I was sewing a pattern designed for non-stretch wovens I chose to sew size 12 (I often sew size 10 in Style Arc pants patterns). This is the same size I used for the Tully pants, so from the same block.  The fabric has been in stash for a long, long time (I have a feeling that it came to me from my friend Rachel) and has a slightly textured cross-weave and plenty of drape. It’s very dark grey, probably what you’d describe as charcoal rather than being black.

From the Style Arc website: Pull-on pant sewing pattern with a smooth front yoke, elastic back and side pockets. This new wide leg pant pattern gives you the option of 7/8th or full length. The Fifi Woven Pant is a simple pant to sew that will give you a sophisticated look. FABRIC SUGGESTION Crepe, linen and rayon.

I chose to sew full-length pants, then folded out a chunk of the length from the pattern to accommodate my height.  As it turned out I could have just sewn the 7/8 length, as I had to further shorten the pants considerably despite having altered the pattern!  That’s definitely what I’ll be doing next time.

Everything lined up beautifully on these pants. The seam of the flat front part of the waistband matches exactly with the curve of the pants pockets, and it was very straightforward to alter the elastic length to work with my shape. I really am best in pull-on pants that have elastic in the waist – my waist to hip ratio makes that the most comfortable and generally the best fitting option for me.

Construction was straightforward and shared between the sewing machine and the overlocker. I did simple topstitched hems, but this fabric really did deserve a hand-stitched hem. I might go back and unpick and redo them accordingly (or I might not). I’m definitely going to sew up this pattern again – I plan on doing the shorter version in linen for summer.

This is the third piece of the Style Arc Parker outfit – you’ve already seen the pants and the coat.  Although they were designed and released as an ensemble, that’s not the way that I’ve sewn them (although the pants and coat do work together).  I sewed up the Parker tunic in voile from stash – it’s a lovely fabric, but I don’t think it’s the right choice for this top.

The Style Arc website describes this top as follows:  Instantly update your wardrobe with this versatile tunic. You will love this beautiful V-neck top with a cap sleeve and shaped hem. A great piece to wear on any occasion. FABRIC SUGGESTION silk, rayon, crepe or washed linen. I sewed size 12, which is the size that I usually sew in Style Arc tops and dresses.  That generally fits me best across the shoulders and upper chest, and I choose styles that have loads of waist ease.  However, this top looks a little tight across the bust, and the self-faced cap sleeves stick out more than I’d like. There is adequate room elsewhere.

I expressed my reservations about this top when Clare was taking the photos – she thought that the length was awkward, and the proportions probably not right for my height. I didn’t make any alterations to the pattern before sewing, and this may have been better shortened. I don’t shorten tunics routinely – after all, they’re meant to be long tops – but this one may have benefitted. Given the faced, curved hemline, I’m not going to try altering this after the fact. It has gone into the spare room wardrobe for someone else to enjoy.

I really like the V neckline, which was successfully sewn by just taking things slowly and using plenty of pins. I will give this pattern another go, but I think that I’ll try sewing it in a knit. Not a super stretchy one, but one that drapes a little more and feels less snug across the boobs. And I’ll shorten the pattern pieces a bit too.

Kate of the blog Fabrikated recently hosted a ‘Dress Like Frida’ sewalong.  Over a number of weeks she introduced readers to Frida Kahlo‘s clothing style, including inspiration images, links to a recent exhibition, and links to patterns.  We were encouraged to use Frida Kahlo’s style as inspiration, adapting it to our own personal circumstances and cultural heritage.  This is what I came up with.

I actually had way more plans in my head for this sewalong than the single top that eventuated. I had pulled out numerous fabrics and trims from stash and played around with them, but due to a variety of factors I only ended up with one item. This top is based on the Style Arc Sian top. I decided to focus on fabric and trim choice and keeping the style lines of the top simple, but didn’t want to go the whole way of sewing a traditional square huipil. Maybe another time – loose simple garments are often my choice anyway!

Style Arc describe the Sian Combo Top as follows: This is a great staple to have in your wardrobe. The dropped shoulder is very flattering along with a comfortable silhouette. Create your own style by using different textures or colours; knit or woven… the combinations are endless. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Crepe, Silk, Georgette or Jersey knit.

As you can tell, I made a few changes.  I used size 12 throughout, and cut the centre front on the fold, making sure that I took the seam allowances into account.  I left out the front split, and folded out the gathering from the upper back before cutting out.  The front and back princess seams provided slight shaping, and acted as lines to place the braid along.

The centre orange braid is actually bias binding that I’d made some time ago. Because it was bias it was perfect for finishing the curved neckline as well. The other two braids were in stash, and the main fabric is hand-woven cotton from Thailand, left over from another garment. This top used much more trim than you’d think! I paired it with linen trousers rather than sewing a traditional long gathered waist skirt to go with it – I knew that I’d never wear the skirt.

I’m fairly pleased with the end result. It’s definitely inspired by Frida, but I feel that it’s been brought into a context that I find more wearable. This sewalong also had me thinking and reading about cultural appropriation and how it may apply to clothing and sewing.  My general feeling is that those of us who love textiles tend to participate in cultural exchange and cultural appreciation rather than cultural appropriation, but I can see that there is the potential for there to be a fine line between the two.  I found this article, this article and this one to be interesting discussions on the topic.  As a white Australian of English/Scottish/German ancestry, so part of the dominant culture here, I feel that I still have so much to learn.

Unlike the last two garments I showed you, when I put on this top I sighed a definite YES.

When I went to Sewjourn recently, all four of us decided to sew our own version of the Marilla Walker Maya top. It’s been around for a few years now, and I had to admit that I had passed it over due to it’s simplicity. That was really short-sighted of me!

Because really, simple shapes are my jam. Yes I like interesting details, or fabulous fabrics, but the clothing that I feel the best in is usually quite straightforward.

From the pattern website:  The Maya pattern takes its influence from my Central American mother and family. It is a kimono/cap sleeve dress or top that is designed to hang well from the shoulders and have a wide fit from the bust down, much like a traditional Guatemalan Huipil. It is intended to be playful and fun and can really showcase an amazing fabric, whether that be a bold print or luscious fibre.

Although relatively simple in design, the variations are endless and there are several lengths to choose from ranging from a cropped top to a knee length dress with a hip length top and shorter dress length in-between. Other variants include a straight or shaped hem, button or plain front as well as an option for a sash belt.

The construction is straight forward and creates a tidy finish as you work through the instructions leaving no raw edges in sight.

FABRIC SUGGESTIONS – Light to medium weight woven fabric.

I sewed size 7, which was closest to my bust measurement, but could have gone down to size 6.  The fabrics are linen scraps from stash, and the choice of colours and the contrasting bottom panel were entirely depending on the size of the scraps.  I really like the colour combination. The yellow linen was originally used to sew the Style Arc Lola pants I’m wearing with the top, and a brown pair that is also still in my wardrobe).  I really do like working with linen.  Essentially this is view A, without the front pocket, and with a curved front and back hemline.  I cut the pattern at the shorten/lengthen line to divide it for colour blocking (and remembered to add seam allowances when I cut it out).  The instructions have you finish the curved hem before sewing together the side seams, which is an excellent tip that gives a very nice finished result. All the topstitching is done in brown thread.

This is a look that I feel very comfortable in.  It’s more ‘me’.

While I was giving new styles a try, I sewed up a pair of Style Arc Tully pants from some lovely light brown/beige linen that was in stash.

From the Style Arc website: This pleat-front “paper bag” waist pant features a slim 7/8th length leg with a separate hem panel. The elastic waist finishes at the side front allowing the centre front to remain flat. The ties are attached into the front pleat. We made our sample with directional stripes. Use your unique style to create your own look. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Linen, crepe, silk or fine wool.

These were a pleasure to sew.  I cut and sewed size 12, and remembered to shorten the main leg pattern piece before cutting out.  I wanted these to be 7/8 length as drafted, not full length on short me!  All the pieces fitted together beautifully.  The front ties are sewn into the front tucks, which is a rather nice piece of design.  Anyway, you want to see them on me, don’t you?

As my kids would say, yeah nah. And to be honest, I knew before I started that these just wouldn’t work well for my shape. But every now and then I am a little self-delusional.

I’ll show you a few photos so that you know that they pretty much fit me and so that you can see some of the details. But they are NOT a look that I like on me.

The tee is the SBCC Tonic Tee, a free pattern for short people that I’ve blogged about before. I sewed it in a nice quality knit from Clear It, possibly in size large. And for those of you who were wondering if the pants would look better with the tee out instead of tucked in….

Once again, yeah nah. And in case you were wondering – yes, I’ve tried styling the pants quite a few different ways, with looser tops, with the ‘half tuck’, with a loose top tucked in.  Yeah nah.

Both the pants – which I LOVE when I just hold them up and look at them – and the tee – quality fabric, well made – are now in the spare wardrobe. I wonder which of my family/friends will take a shine to them?

I had high hopes for this pattern.  And there’s a lot to like about the finished dress.  But also a bit that feels rather ‘meh’.

I think that lots of my issues with this dress were due to the size that I chose to sew. I really haven’t got Hot Patterns properly figured out. The last few times I’ve sewn one of their patterns I’ve sewn size 10 (I measure more like a 14, 16 or 18 around the waist) and generally that’s worked out to be the best size. After some flat measuring and oohing and ahing I made the decision to cut size 10 for this one as well. And the body is okay. But the first rendition of it had sleeves so tight that I could barely get the dress on – and then I could barely move!

I unpicked the sleeves and recut them in size 14 (maybe 16?), re-sewed them up, and reinserted them into the armscye with a little bit of faffing around. Then the dress fitted!

That twisted, knotted front was what initially drew me to the pattern. It’s visually interesting and I wondered how it was constructed. I was aware that it could go either way in regard to being belly enhancing or belly distracting (I have a decent size belly).

From the Hot Patterns website: You’ll L-O-V-E this figure-flattering shirtdress, perfect for blouse or shirt-weight weight fabrics like cotton shirting, chambray, crepe or linen. Use a woven with a little added stretch if you’d like, but do also consider a stable knit with a little body, like silk(y) jersey, ITY knits, double knits like ponte, or a lightweight French terry. Semi-fitted, button-through shirtdress has a faux shirt-style shawl collar and an optional invisible side seam zipper. 3/4 length sleeves are finished with a slit and a deep hem facing; the skirt hemline finishes j-u-s-t below the knee with a narrow hem. Dress has a very slightly raised waist seam and a twisted front. This is the very definition of a throw-on-and-go dress; it’s easy to dress it up or down for day, night, work or the weekend, and depending on the season and your fabric choices, this one works with boots, shoes, sandals and sneakers. The fabric is lovely – it’s a linen check that was a gift from a lovely friend.  It was really nice to work with; it pressed well, yet has that give in it that you find with linen and linen blends. The front facings/collar pieces were interfaced with lightweight Vilene fusible interfacing, and they turn back beautifully. I particularly like the shaping at the centre back collar seam.

Now, I actually sewed this back in March, and have only just got around to photographing it. I don’t mind how it looks in most of these photos, but also feel that my hair and skin tones blend into the colours of the fabric a bit too much. And really, it fits closely. More closely than I’d probably like. I really don’t know that I’ll wear it.

I do like to give different styles a try every now and then – but I always do so knowing that it could be a gamble. I’m glad that I sewed this dress, but will I sew it again? I don’t know….possibly not. Actually, this dress has already been transferred into the wardrobe in the spare room…and we all know what that means!

I dip my toes into the waters of other pattern companies, then keep returning to Style Arc.  I really do find them reliable, contemporary, fashionable, and consistent in fit.  As long as I choose the designs in shapes that I feel best in, I rarely sew a fail from a Style Arc pattern.

That said, some are bigger wins that others, and this coat is right up there among the wins! I love everything about it. It’s the Style Arc Parker coat. From their website: With an effortless long-line shape, this coat is a perfect option for a smart casual look. Let the collar sit high on the neck and allow the revere to fall naturally. This style features a horizontal hip seam, patch pocket and stitched back vent. FABRIC SUGGESTION ponte, knit boucle, sweater knit or rugby knit.

Fabric choice is really important to sew this successfully.  It’s designed for knits – take note!  It’s an unlined coat without closures, although it would probably be straightforward enough to add an open ended zip to the front between the outer and the facing if you so desired.  Although this is described as a coat, and has a collar with reveres, I am more likely to treat it a bit like a cardigan.

The fabric is a knit from The Remnant Warehouse. It behaved a bit like a rugby knit – not super stretchy like a ponte, but with some substance. I’m not sure what the fibre content was, but it pressed nicely.

The collar was fairly easy to set in, with judicious pinning and even a teensy bit of basting. Working with a knit fabric made it more straightforward than I expected. I used a fairly light stretch interfacing on the collar and the front facings.

The front patch pockets are located a short distance below the feature seam, which is topstitched. This lines up with a seam on the back, also topstitched. The centre back vent has mitred corners and is also topstitched in place.

There is no topstitching down the front opening or facings, so I stitched in the ditch along the shoulder seamlines and the lower front seamlines in order to hold the facing in place. I think that I’ll tack the back neck facing down at the centre too – it has to be fiddled with a bit to lie flat.

This type of garment fits really well into the Melbourne climate. Although there are definitely times of year when something warmer is needed, much of the time our weather is in-between hot and cold, so this type of layer comes in handy. Being a knit, it also kicks goals in the comfort stakes.  And I’ve just realised that this whole outfit is by Style Arc!  Elle pants, Abigail top, Parker coat.  Shoes are Django & Juliette.