Day: 18 June 2016

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween, vintage patterns

Vintage Style 4248

Vintage Style 4248 (copyright 1985) was recently given to me by Sarah.  I so appreciate that people think of my girls when they are browsing patterns in op shops!  It only took about a minute for me to reach into my stash and pull out a length of soft spotted knit that Emma has also recently given me.  The finished dress really is a combined sewing bloggers effort!

Style 4248 copyright 1985 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

So, to the pattern.  As you’ve all noticed by now, batwing sleeves and cowl necklines are definitely back in fashion again.  It’s that thirty year cycle.  After taking a look at the pattern cover Clare was quite happy for me to sew up the view with the straight skirt – as long as I made the skirt shorter.  That’s easy to do with a rectangular pattern piece!

Style 4248 copyright 1985

I sewed view 3, in the girls size 10. There is plenty of ease in this pattern, and even though these styles are back in fashion, they are not usually worn as oversized as they were in the 1980s. I did year 12 in 1985, so this dress pattern is smack bang in the middle of my teens and early adulthood. I wonder how many of you had this exact dress back in the day?

Style 4248 copyright 1985 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The fabric is super soft – it was originally from Darn Cheap Fabrics. The pattern is super simple. Front and back bodice pieces that integrate the sleeve. Rectangular cowl pattern piece, rectangular skirt pattern piece. A casing for waist elastic is made using the seam allowances where the bodice joins to the skirt. Easy peasy!

Style 4248 copyright 1985 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

As is often the case, construction was pretty much all on the overlocker. I did use the sewing machine to stitch down the waist casing and to do the skirt and sleeve hems. I think that this dress came together in less than an hour. Shortening the skirt to above the knee brings it into 2016 instead of 1985 – and of course, there are no raglan shoulder pads in this version of the dress!

Style 4248 copyright 1985 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

It really is worth taking another look at those late 1970s and early to mid 1980s patterns – check at your local op shop or if you are like me, just trawl back through your pattern stash! I love this dress on Clare, and she’s pretty happy with it too. A great tween style.

Style 4248 copyright 1985 in knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala 4114 – jacket with bell sleeves

Okay, this jacket was sewn and photographed last June.  How did it miss being blogged?  It’s a good thing that it’s never too late.

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is a great jacket. It’s Lekala 4114, described only as “Jacket with bell sleeves”. Andrea also has a blog post on it here.

Lekala 4114 jacket with bell sleeves 180_technical_drawing_894

Those fantastic sleeves were what drew me to the pattern. As it is a Lekala pattern, it is ordered to your measurements. The instructions were mostly adequate, but I did have to think quite a lot when I was doing the lining.

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I used wool from stash (originally from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table – it’s pretty scratchy, so needed to be used for a lined garment, and I still have loads of it left). The lining was a polyester satin remnant, also from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

I needed to refer to reference books to do the lining. The instructions simply had you use the same pieces as the front and back, but it also included front and back facings and I knew that I’d need to remove fabric from the lining pieces to match up with the facings. Is that as clear as mud? I cut out front and back pieces from the lining, with added length to allow for wearing ease. I then traced the facings onto the wrong side of the front and back lining pieces, then added twice the seam allowance and drew another line closer to the edge of the fabric. You really do need to refer to a good tailoring book to really know what I mean here, I suspect! These sections were then cut off, and the lining sewn to the facings. From memory I constructed the lining with slightly smaller seam allowances than the main jacket – wearing ease once again!

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

The sleeve lining was treated in a similar way. I used the sleeve pattern pieces to cut out sleeves in lining, shortening them a little to accommodate the sleeve hem but allow for wearing ease in the lining so it would form a little fold when sewn to the sleeve hem. Oh boy, this is hard to explain. I then bagged out the lining, after reading instructions from a variety of reference books and tutorials. Sometimes it’s good to get information in a number of ways to see which one clicks best with you! I particularly referred to this and this and this tutorial to sew that inside corner when the hem, facing and lining come together.

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

In this next photo you can just see the topstitching that I did either side of the sleeve seamline and above the front and back yoke seamlines. The sleeve hems were also topstitched down. The front and neck edges were under stitched to stop them rolling to the outside, then were topstitched in place and they are sitting crisply. The bottom hem is interfaced and sits well too.

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

This is certainly a jacket that stands out! The colour is vibrant and the sleeves have added drama. Once again, the cropped sleeves actually work quite well in a Melbourne winter.

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Whenever I work with wool wovens I wonder why I don’t do it more often. They respond so beautifully to steam and can be shaped beautifully, and there is that lovely smell whenever they are pressed. Most wool wovens aren’t as scratchy as this one, but that easily be overcome in lined garments. Maybe I need to sew myself a skirt from some of the remaining fabric? Although maybe wearing a suit in this colour would be a bit too vibrant even for me…

Lekala 4114 in wool from Darn Cheap Fabrics