Month: May 2014

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

Go To Patterns Belinda

Although I had primarily planned on selfish sewing when I was away at Sewjourn a couple of weeks ago (yes!  It’s already two weeks ago – time does fly and all those cliches) there was no way that I could envisage coming home without one thing for each of the girls.  So I sewed Clare a dress and coordinating leggings.

Go To Patterns Belinda dress and matching leggings

The dress is the Belinda dress from Go To Patterns, and the leggings are the Go To Leggings.  The stripe was from GJs, and the print from Anna‘s stash.  The pattern description from the website is as follows: A girls’ dress sewing pattern designed with comfort in mind! This adorable dress has a fitted knit bodice, puff sleeves, a gathered skirt, banded hemline and a fun kangaroo pocket.

Go To Patterns Belinda dress and matching leggings

This was quite a straightforward sew, although gathering always takes a little bit of time and there were gathers at the sleeve head, at the waist seam and at the hem band. I used my usual method of sewing two parallel rows of stitching with a long stitch length, and drawing up the gathers to fit. The majority of the construction was on the overlocker.  There is a little bit of topstitching on the neck and pocket bands, but that is all.

Go To Patterns Belinda dress and matching leggings

Clare enjoyed working out what fabric she wanted where, and the end placement of stripe versus print has worked out quite nicely balanced. Both fabrics were of a lovely quality with similar amounts of heft and stretch. This was a pleasure to sew. And check out the front pocket – it goes right through, as well as down to the hem!

Go To Patterns Belinda dress and matching leggings

I sewed the size 8 for Clare, which the pattern says is for a 26″ chest (she measures 25″). Clare is 136cm tall, and the fit of the size 8 is good. The leggings are cut at size 7/8 width, with 9/10 length. The construction is fairly standard for garments of this type. And yes, I did match the stripes where needed!

Go To Patterns Belinda dress and matching leggings

Cosy, warm and comfortable. A definite hit for a winter dress!

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala 4094

Lekala 4094 is actually a pre-Sewjourn make!  As seems to almost permanently be the case at the moment, I am way way behind with blogging what I have sewn.  Shall I blame Instagram or perhaps just life in general?  But because my blog is my record of what I have sewn, things will eventually be documented here.  So, back to Lekala 4094.  First, the line drawing.

This one really was an impulse buy for me.  While mindlessly scrolling through the Lekala catalogue one day, I spotted the drape, the side ruching, and realised that it was for knits.  I had some wildly patterned midweight ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics that was crying out to be turned into something, and I’d tried to find the pattern that was just right for it many times.  Suddenly I realised that this pattern was the one!  Before I knew it I had ordered, the pattern arrived into my in-box, and I was busy in the sewing room.

Lekala 4094 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Woo hoo! I love it! Fits well, and super comfortable. But it wasn’t without its challenges. As you probably know by now, Lekala’s instructions can sometimes be difficult to decipher. With good sewing knowledge and attention paid to the line drawing of the finished garment, it’s not usually too difficult to figure out what to do when. But I did manage to stuff this one up when attaching the drape – and didn’t even realise just what I’d done until it was time to sew up the side seams.

Lekala 4094 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

See all that lovely gathering down one side? As it turned out, I hadn’t paid enough attention to just how much it was meant to be gathered, and what markings to match up where. I had to unpick multiple passes of overlocking in order to fix it – which meant that it took me around double the predicted time to finish the dress. Luckily it was quite saveable.

Lekala 4094 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

And that print – yes, it’s busy! I’m still trying to work out exactly what it is – to me it is like a cross between the scales on a snake or a butterfly’s wing, all digitally manipulated to swirl around. I wonder if I am right?

Lekala 4094 in ponte from Darn Cheap Fabrics

Construction was shared between the overlocker and the machine, with seams finished on the overlocker and hems turned, secured and finished with a twin needle. I think that this pattern would look great on lots of different shapes, and has the potential to do interesting things with the side panels – in a contrasting fabric perhaps?  So my verdict – definitely a success!

adult's clothing, sewing

shrug #2

Remember the fuchsia shrug I posted a couple of weeks ago?  While I was at Sewjourn I made another one.

Japanese pattern book May Me shrug in textured knit

This time I used a lace embossed knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I have no idea how they made this fabric – it’s like a stretch lace that somehow has another knit woven through it.  It’s not a typical bonded fabric or a jacquard – at the selvedges was just the cream lace, then the grey becomes incorporated into the fabric.

lace knit detail

Anyway, it is lovely and soft. I sewed it on the machine, and simply turned the hem edge over and twin needle stitched it in place. It won’t fray, as it is a knit. The stitches absolutely disappeared into the fabric.

Japanese pattern book May Me shrug in textured knit

As this is a soft knit it falls in lovely folds around the back and around the neck. And it goes so well with my new Moneta. I absolutely love it.

Japanese pattern book May Me shrug in textured knit

But guess what? This shrug isn’t for me – it’s a gift for my cousin Freya. So as hard as it might be, I am going to give it away. But just might need to return to Darn Cheap for some more of that fabric….

adult's clothing, sewing

Moneta

So, to what I sewed at Sewjourn!  When Colette patterns released the Moneta, I was actually quite sceptical.  I though that there were loads of patterns around for knit dresses with set in sleeves and full-ish skirts.  And I really didn’t think that it was a shape that would work on my body.  But surprise surprise, eventually I jumped onto the bandwagon and gave it a go.  Nothing like a bit of peer pressure.

Colette Moneta dress

Well hooley dooley, I really really like it! Who’d have thought! This is view 3, with the sleeves obviously. After all, it is May! My first dilemma was in regard to sizing. For the record, my current measurements are bust 39 inches, wait 35.5 inches, hips 39 inches. This corresponded with a Large for the bust, XL for the waist and Medium for the hips. This is a typical situation for me when I’m sewing. So I cut out the pattern accordingly at a Large, grading up to XL around the waist. The end product has a waist with a slight amount of positive ease, which I think is quite flattering to my shape, and the bust and shoulders still fitting nicely too. I didn’t make any other adjustments.

Colette Moneta dress

Hems were all turned, secured in place with Vliesofix tape, then twin needled. You could easily add a band to the neckline if preferred. The skirt is both gently flared and gently gathered, and the combination is very easy to wear. I actually followed the suggested technique of gathering the waist with elastic before attaching it to the bodice, and I’m really happy with the result. I didn’t use clear elastic but used another soft elastic that I had in stash. It made the gathering faster than my usual two rows of stitching drawn up by hand, and also provides support at the waistline. Speaking of waistlines, I am quite short through the body and this dress pretty much sits at my “natural” waistline. There are handy “lengthen or shorten” lines on the pattern piece, so others might want to use those depending on where they would like the waist seam to hit them.

Colette Moneta dress

The fabric is a lovely crushed knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I cut it so that the darkest stripe was around my middle (waist paranoia there maybe?) but failed to realise that would put the light grey stripe closest to my face. And light grey against my face is not my most attractive option. So I actually wore it with a chartresuse crocheted scarf, and added a darker grey cardigan when I was out for added warmth.

me made May day 22.  Colette Moneta dress with crocheted scarf both made by me.  Will add a rtw cardi when I go out later.

So despite my initial skepticism, I think that this is a terrific pattern. I’m going to make another with wrist length sleeves for winter. There is lots of opportunity to play around with this dress in terms of length, sleeves, neckline and collar options, and it satisfies my basic dress requirement of comfort as well. Recommended!

sewing

#SewjournMay14

Yes, I spent the weekend at Sewjourn!  And yes, I sewed up a ridiculous number of garments.   Eighteen in total.  Now, remember that most were very simple, all were pre-cut, and all but one were knits.  I have been trying to add to my “simple basics” and managed to do that quite nicely.  There were also a couple of experimental garments in there – I wonder if you can pick which ones?

Sewjourn May 2014 #1

I will be back with properly styled and non-blurry photos of each garment with pattern/fabric details – eventually! In the meantime I have to unpack everything and get it back where it goes in my sewing room. I also still have a suitcase full of garments that are cut out ready to sew – but I’ve just realised how long my non-sewing to-do list is for the next month! Ack! But I thought you might enjoy this little preview of what I made in the meantime.

Sewjourn May 2014 #2

Actually, everyone was EXTREMELY productive this weekend. And I think that between the seven of us there were possibly about fourteen Mabel (or similar) skirts sewn! Now we are all suffering the exhaustion of having stopped our normal lives for a weekend and are trying to ramp back up into the everyday whirlwinds.  Thanks again my fellow Sewjourners for all that you do and all that you are.

fabric stash, family, miscellaneous

my budding fabric designers

Remember that I shared some of Clare’s artwork a little while back?  Well, I did get a couple of her designs printed.  And Stella wasn’t about to let me order fabric from Clare’s drawings without having some of hers done too.

fabric by Clare (11 yrs old)

These are Clare’s designs (she is 11 years old). We had fat quarters printed; one on cotton and the other on lawn. Clare really enjoyed playing with the scale of her design as well as the repeat options that were offered. We used Spoonflower for these, by the way. It took around a month from placing the initial order to receiving the fabric here in Australia.

fabric by Stella (6 yrs old)

And these two are Stella’s (she is six years old). Once again I ordered fat quarters, one on cotton and one on jersey. Sadly I didn’t think about which way the repeat runs on the jersey one and as a result the stretch runs vertically rather than horizontally due to it being a one-way design. Live and learn!  Stella also enjoyed the process of determining what scale and what repeats to use, and she had very definite ideas about what she preferred.

So, for some close-ups: Clare’s design, in a small scale repeat on cotton.

fabric by Clare (11 yrs old)

Clare’s other design, in a larger scale on lawn.

fabric by Clare (11 yrs old)

And a closer photo of Stella’s designs.

fabric by Stella (6 yrs old)

I ordered fat quarters of each rather than swatches hoping that I would have pieces of a useable size to incorporate into garments or other projects, and I think that they will work fine. We didn’t do any manipulation of their artwork before uploading them to Spoonflower; they were just hand-drawn with metallic textas, scanned in to the computer and uploaded. As a result there are some imperfections, such as a couple of small smudges in Clare’s, but I think that adds to the hand drawn charm! Clare is keen to get her designs up for sale.

I’m heading off to Sewjourn in a few short hours time.  I have many more projects cut cut out than any person could possibly complete in two days.  If you are interested in watching my sewing progress over the weekend I will be uploading potentially dodgy photos to Instagram (I’m thornberry over there) as I complete each garment.  Have a great weekend everyone – I know that I will!

me made May 2014

me made May: the first two weeks

I mentioned a few blog posts back that I was participating in Me Made May this year.  It has been more fun than I anticipated watching people’s outfits pop up on Instagram and in the flickr group!  I love that there are so many people wearing self-sewn (and knitted and crocheted) garments.  Just wonderful!  Here are my outfits for the first two weeks of May.

me made May days 1-4

My challenge was to wear me-made to work as well as casually. This hasn’t actually proved to be a problem at all.

me made May days 5-8

Actually, for many of these days, all of my outer garments are me-made. My shoes, socks, stocking and underwear aren’t made by me, but most other things are. Including scarves and bags!

me made May days 9-12

So overall, me made May really has started off beautifully. Getting a photo taken each day is the biggest challenge, especially now that the days are shorter and there isn’t much light for mirror selfies. My work colleagues and my kids have been doing the photography honours most of the time.

me made May days 13-14

Further information on any of these outfits is on the flickr photos.  I encourage you to check out the flickr group, and see how creative people are with their sewing and their daily outfits.

adult's clothing, sewing

flattery through imitation – the shrug

We all know the saying about imitation being the highest form of flattery, don’t we?  I’m not sure if that is actually true, but when I saw Anna’s wool shrug (and a second as yet unblogged one) it wasn’t long before I made a blatant copy.

Wool shrug - pattern 4 from "May Me" Japanese sewing book

Well, it’s not an identical copy – Anna’s is grey, and as you can see mine is anything but! The fabric is a fairly fine wool coating remnant from Rathdowne fabrics. This is the simplest thing ever to sew. It’s essentially just a large rectangle folded in half, a couple of seams up half of the sides, then cuffs set into the opening above the seams.

Wool shrug - pattern 4 from "May Me" Japanese sewing book

To wear it you just stick your arms through the cuffs then arrange the front around your neckline and the back around your waist. It was surprisingly warm and comfortable to wear.

Wool shrug - pattern 4 from "May Me" Japanese sewing book

As the fabric was a woven coating and a little thick to turn twice, I finished the inside edge with a strip of bias binding (taking the lead from Anna in that detail too). I simply zig-zagged the seam allowances on the inside and the matching thread colour sank right into the weave of the wool.  So simple, so effective! The pattern is from a Japanese sewing book, May Me Style Sewing by Michiyo Ito. It takes very little fabric, and very little time. Highly recommended!

Me made may day 9. New Look dress and Japanese pattern book woven wool shrug both made by me.

adult's clothing, sewing

McCalls 6841 top and Colette Mabel skirt

Sometimes when I type in the prosaic titles that I give my blog posts I almost despair at my lack of creativity.  Clearly whatever creativity I have goes more into the sewing of the garments that the blog posts are about.  I have had McCalls 6841 in the back of my mind for a couple of months, and picked up a copy at the last Spotlight pattern sale.  The pattern photo in the catalogue didn’t particularly inspire me, but I’d seen a few versions around the blogosphere and the thought of such a complex looking top sewn from just two pattern pieces really appealed to me.

Colette Mabel skirt and McCalls 6841 draped top

This really was just meant to be a muslin. I used some fabric that I’d picked up from the Darn Cheap $2 table, and actually had to add a piece to the centre front in order to get the full piece from the amount of fabric that I had available. So try to imagine this top without those seams that you can see in the centre front of the drape – they shouldn’t be there!  I cut and sewed size Medium, and I think that I made petite alterations.

McCalls 6841 draped top

This is such a clever pattern. The kimono sleeves are cut on. There is one pattern piece for the back, and one for the front. The drape and neckline facing are all cut in, and there are tucks along the top of the shoulder seams that also give shape. As it turned out, the fabric was absolutely perfect for this top in terms of all the wonderful drape that it had. It’s also beautifully soft and comfortable to wear. I wish I’d bought more! I did add a lead sinker inside the centre front of the drape to give it a little weight and keep it hanging nicely, but later removed it as it didn’t really seem to need it.

Colette Mabel skirt and McCalls 6841 draped top

I also stitched the centre front seam up much higher than the pattern had marked. It was SUPER low – even for me, who isn’t afraid to show a little cleavage. You can do this after you’ve sewn up the top, so can try it on then alter the depth of the neckline by just sewing it up a little more. I used a simple zig zag to hem the bottom of the top and the ends of the sleeves.

Me made may day 10. McCalls top and Colette Mabel skirt made by me.

The skirt is the Colette Mabel, in the simplest – and shortest – view. Remember I am 158cm (5’2″) tall. I wouldn’t wear shorter than this. I made this skirt from ponte scraps from another (as yet unsewn) project. It has a pattern embossed into it and was also from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

shades of blue

There were lots of shades of blue in that outfit by the time I added a (purchased) jacket! I had almost forgotten how much I like teal blues and chocolate browns together. Time to pull fabrics in those colours out of the stash!  I will make this top again – this time with enough fabric so that I don’t need to piece any – although it is a rather distinctive design.  It would also be great lengthened to a tunic.  And the pattern includes a sleeveless version.  Hmmmm……

crochet

Pretty Popcorn vest

After the success of the last garment that I made Clare from Crocheting Clothes Kids Love, it wasn’t long before I started on another.  This time it was the Pretty Popcorn Vest.

Pretty Popcorn Vest

The yarn is Patons Australia Glacier, a now discontinued yarn that made its way from a friend’s stash into mine recently. According to the Ravelry database it is an 8ply, so I was fairly happy to substitute it in this pattern. I was a little concerned that a 3.5mm hook would be too stiff with this weight of yarn, but after blocking it has softened up beautifully and keeps it shape just as it ought to.

Pretty Popcorn Vest

I crocheted size 8 for Clare, and it’s still a little large across her back. However, it does up nicely at the front, and the rest of the proportions look good. The back is worked first, then each front with lace edging. Once the fronts and back are joined, the lacy sleeve edging is worked, and the ties and popcorn tassels come last.

Pretty Popcorn Vest

This was finished in ten days – but actually, it was finished in about four days, then sat waiting for me to do the tassels for almost another week! I wonder why we sometimes put off the little finishing details that don’t take very long to do. Clare likes her vest and has worn it a couple of times already.

Pretty Popcorn Vest

It must be time for me to pull out the book again and decide what to start hooking next!  There are more details on Ravelry here and more photos in a set on Flickr here.

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