Day: 30 November 2013

adult's clothing, sewing

By Hand London Polly top

While I was making the Grainline tank, I thought that I should give the By Hand London Polly top pattern a try.  It’s also a tank, but with a front “bib” shaped inset that incorporates princess seam shaping.  And did I mention that the pattern is free?

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I have seen this made up in a variety of fabric combinations. Most do the front inset as a contrast, with the rest of the top in the same fabric. I decided to do most of the top in the one print fabric (thanks Anna!) and to use a solid to “frame” the inset on the front. This also entailed making bias binding from the print, once again thanks to the bias binding maker. What would I do without that handy little piece of equipment!

By Hand London Polly top

Size wise, I made straight US12/UK16. I did alter it by taking a much deeper shoulder seam, about an inch and a quarter rather than 5/8″. Since I am short, this has brought up the armhole to a better spot and lifted the bust seaming and neckline. Such a large improvement for such a simple alteration. As always, this was hoped to be a wearable muslin, and I think that it actually fits rather well! There are some small pulls when in motion, but the fabrics are medium weight rather than light weight so that would contribute. It’s all about getting the right combination of pattern, fabric and fit! Ah, the challenges of sewing for yourself.

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The bias around the armholes and neckline was used as a binding rather than a facing – attached to the inside, and then wrapped around the seam allowance, folded to the outside and stitched in place. I wouldn’t be surprised if I make this pattern up again at some stage.

By Hand London Polly top

adult's clothing, sewing

Grainline tiny pocket tank

Another basic top – the Grainline tiny pocket tank.  And I made it even more basic by leaving off the pocket.

Grainline tiny pocket tank (without the pocket)

This simple tank has a scooped neckline, curved hemline, and armholes and neckline finished with bias binding. I decided to attach bias to the inside and turn it to the outside along the neckline and to finish the hemline the same way, just to give a little contrast. Around the armholes I attached the bias to the outside and turned and stitched it on the inside, as per the instructions. Once again, I used my Clover bias tape maker to make the bias binding, rather than using the pattern pieces.

Grainline tiny pocket tank (without the pocket)

I cut this one at size 12. There are small bust darts, which help the fit across the bust and upper chest. I took deeper shoulder seams as a petite adjustment, which worked nicely to lift the armholes, neckline and bust darts.  The fabric is again from Anna‘s stash, a drapey rayon that originally came from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Grainline tiny pocket tank (without the pocket)

Next time that I make it I will shorten it – when I look at this full length photo the proportions aren’t quite right. Otherwise, another great simple basic pattern for when the weather really heats up.