While I was making the Grainline tank, I thought that I should give the By Hand London Polly top pattern a try.  It’s also a tank, but with a front “bib” shaped inset that incorporates princess seam shaping.  And did I mention that the pattern is free?

I have seen this made up in a variety of fabric combinations. Most do the front inset as a contrast, with the rest of the top in the same fabric. I decided to do most of the top in the one print fabric (thanks Anna!) and to use a solid to “frame” the inset on the front. This also entailed making bias binding from the print, once again thanks to the bias binding maker. What would I do without that handy little piece of equipment!

Size wise, I made straight US12/UK16. I did alter it by taking a much deeper shoulder seam, about an inch and a quarter rather than 5/8″. Since I am short, this has brought up the armhole to a better spot and lifted the bust seaming and neckline. Such a large improvement for such a simple alteration. As always, this was hoped to be a wearable muslin, and I think that it actually fits rather well! There are some small pulls when in motion, but the fabrics are medium weight rather than light weight so that would contribute. It’s all about getting the right combination of pattern, fabric and fit! Ah, the challenges of sewing for yourself.

The bias around the armholes and neckline was used as a binding rather than a facing – attached to the inside, and then wrapped around the seam allowance, folded to the outside and stitched in place. I wouldn’t be surprised if I make this pattern up again at some stage.

Another basic top – the Grainline tiny pocket tank.  And I made it even more basic by leaving off the pocket.

This simple tank has a scooped neckline, curved hemline, and armholes and neckline finished with bias binding. I decided to attach bias to the inside and turn it to the outside along the neckline and to finish the hemline the same way, just to give a little contrast. Around the armholes I attached the bias to the outside and turned and stitched it on the inside, as per the instructions. Once again, I used my Clover bias tape maker to make the bias binding, rather than using the pattern pieces.

I cut this one at size 12. There are small bust darts, which help the fit across the bust and upper chest. I took deeper shoulder seams as a petite adjustment, which worked nicely to lift the armholes, neckline and bust darts.  The fabric is again from Anna‘s stash, a drapey rayon that originally came from Darn Cheap Fabrics.

Next time that I make it I will shorten it – when I look at this full length photo the proportions aren’t quite right. Otherwise, another great simple basic pattern for when the weather really heats up.

As is often the case, I feel that I am very late to the blog party that is the Grainline Scout woven tee.  So many people have made this, and it is the go-to simple top for many of them.  It was definitely about time that I gave it a go!

Because this was my first go at the pattern, I did not make any major alterations other than cutting it out at size 14 along the sides but size 12 through the armholes, neckline and overall length. I used vintage fabric that was very tightly woven. I have no idea what the composition is. It pressed surprisingly well, but was difficult to ease into the armholes and had pretty much no give and no “shrink with steam” factor. Luckily for me the print hides some of the miniscule gathers that appeared in the sleeve head where I had trouble easing it.

There are no darts in this top, and it has a slight high-low hemline. I love the fit of the neckline – it sits beautifully against the body – and it is comfortably loose around the mid-section. I’m pretty happy with the size, as in a drapier fabric it would lie more closely to my body and not stand out quite as much at the centre. I’m not sure that this one needs a FBA, but I may still think about it. I might shorten it ever so slightly next time too, and might bring in the armholes a fraction more.

I made bias binding with my Clover bias maker and used that to finish the neckline rather than cutting binding using the provided pattern piece and attaching it as per the instructions (like a facing, with understitching). This has still worked very nicely for me and it’s a technique that I’m very familiar with. I’m late to the Grainline Scout tee party, but glad that I eventually arrived.  And co-incidentally, I’m wearing it with my denim Grainline Moss Mini in this photo!

Independent pattern designers are proliferating at the moment.  Most have a particular niche that they are trying to fill, which to me seems to be sensible marketing – know your target market, and do it particularly well.  Fortunately for me, I recently came across Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns – and they are designed for petites.  That means short women, people!  Like me!  But they don’t assume that short necessarily means itty bitty slender – the patterns go from XXS to 3X (28W).  So what did I do?  I downloaded the free tonic t-shirt pattern to see if the proportions would work for me.

I made the size Large and didn’t alter it in any way. I think that it is proportioned very well for my 5’2″ frame. I used some scraps from stash to make it, and had to piece a centre back seam, but didn’t shape the centre back seam at all. I might cut the back a fraction larger from the armholes down the next time that I make it.

There’s not much more to say about this t-shirt really – it’s free, and it fits! I think that this will probably become my basic t-shirt pattern. The scooped neckline is flattering, but not too low, and I like the sleeve length as well.

There are a few patterns on the SBCC website that are now calling to me.  The comprehensive size range appears to be done in two drafts, to best accommodate the proportions of smaller (skinny bitch) and larger (curvy chick) customers.  But the same styles are offered across the size range.  I rather fancy the Empire Waist Blouse and this top with interesting drapes inserted into diagonal seams.  But I appear to have a Lekala stash to work my way through first….