Day: 28 November 2013

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala blouson 5811 and Vogue 1247 skirt

Ah, another Lekala blouson.  May I present to you my first make of Lekala 5811 – it is the first make because there will definitely be a second.

Lekala blouson 5811

I sewed this up as a wearable muslin from a lovely viscose striped knit that came to me from Anna. I wasn’t really sure about all those stripes going in different directions, but the viscose is definitely the right sort of fabric for this drapey top. Both the front and back sleeves are gathered into shaped centre front and centre back pieces.

Lekala blouson 5811

The front and back pieces are similarly shaped but the front has a small cowl. This is a pattern where you definitely need to keep very careful track of which piece is which and which piece goes where. I laid out the front and back separately like a jigsaw puzzle during the construction process, which definitely helped to keep everything in the correct place.

Lekala blouson 5811

There’s plenty of fabric in those sleeves! Doing the gathering was a little time consuming, but once it was done I was able to construct the rest of the top very quickly on the overlocker. The sleeve hems and back neckline are turned and stitched in place, and the bottom has the double layer hip band. I was surprised at how well the cowl neckline sat – it really does stay where it is meant to, despite being a relatively small cowl.

Lekala blouson 5811 with Vogue 1247 skirt

While I was at Sewjourn I also made my third Vogue 1247 skirt (also from fabric given to me by Anna). The fabric was a DKNY cotton/silk originally from The Fabric Store, and it was straightforward to work with. However, unlike my previous two makes of this skirt, it didn’t contain any stretch component. This has made the skirt feel much tighter around my middle than the previous two, despite it being cut out at exactly the same size but taking slightly smaller seam allowances.

Vogue 1247 skirt - front

I lengthened the skirt around three inches, the same as previously, and left off the waistband. I finished the waist edge with bias binding in the same fabric that was used for the inside of the pockets.

Vogue 1247 inside pocket detail

The back closes with an invisible zip – matched perfectly at the centre back yoke seam, I must say!

Vogue 1247 skirt - back

Unfortunately, because I don’t wear anything tucked in you can’t see the yoke detail, the zip matching, or even the clever little pockets! Three versions of this skirt is enough for now, but I don’t think that I have completely retired this pattern just yet. And I will definitely be making the top again.

Lekala blouson 5811 with Vogue 1247 skirt

adult's clothing, sewing

tonic t-shirt

Independent pattern designers are proliferating at the moment.  Most have a particular niche that they are trying to fill, which to me seems to be sensible marketing – know your target market, and do it particularly well.  Fortunately for me, I recently came across Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns – and they are designed for petites.  That means short women, people!  Like me!  But they don’t assume that short necessarily means itty bitty slender – the patterns go from XXS to 3X (28W).  So what did I do?  I downloaded the free tonic t-shirt pattern to see if the proportions would work for me.

Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Tonic t-shirt

I made the size Large and didn’t alter it in any way. I think that it is proportioned very well for my 5’2″ frame. I used some scraps from stash to make it, and had to piece a centre back seam, but didn’t shape the centre back seam at all. I might cut the back a fraction larger from the armholes down the next time that I make it.

Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Tonic t-shirt

There’s not much more to say about this t-shirt really – it’s free, and it fits! I think that this will probably become my basic t-shirt pattern. The scooped neckline is flattering, but not too low, and I like the sleeve length as well.

Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Tonic t-shirt

There are a few patterns on the SBCC website that are now calling to me.  The comprehensive size range appears to be done in two drafts, to best accommodate the proportions of smaller (skinny bitch) and larger (curvy chick) customers.  But the same styles are offered across the size range.  I rather fancy the Empire Waist Blouse and this top with interesting drapes inserted into diagonal seams.  But I appear to have a Lekala stash to work my way through first….

adult's clothing, Lekala, sewing

Lekala blouson 4284

Another Sewjourn make – need to get them all blogged before I head back there again and sew up another storm!  This one is Lekala blouson 4284.  I figure that blouson essentially means “top” as far as Lekala are concerned.

Lekala blouson 4284

I used some stretch scraps from stash for this top – it doesn’t take loads of fabric! I’m fairly pleased with the fit, especially around the shoulders and upper chest. The darts are a little too high for my over-40 bustline, but otherwise I am still very impressed with how few alterations I need to make when I order from Lekala. But then nicest thing about this top is the back view.

Lekala blouson 4284

What a lovely feature! It’s not hard to make, and is essentially an overlay over a scooped back. Which is still very bra-friendly.

Since making this top, I have had a Lekala pattern that bombed. But you know what – it was me, not them! The pattern fitted together perfectly for the measurements that I had provided – but this time I was making a skirt. I allow plenty of ease around the waistline when measuring because I hate to be constricted. However, for a skirt where the waistband actually needs to fit you, I’m going to need to provide a smaller waist measurement. The fit around the hip was excellent! Lesson learned. And luckily for me, it was a free pattern – so I’m going to try it again with different measurements.

Lekala blouson 4284

Happy Thanksgiving to my friends in the USA! My family will be lucky enough to attend a Thanksgiving lunch celebration on the weekend, as my nephew’s girlfriend is American and is looking forward to introducing her Australian family to the traditional edible delights of the day.