Month: November 2012

adult's clothing, sewing

StyleARC Alice & Kerry

Still pursuing my endeavour to use up large scraps, I managed to eke an Alice top from some leftover Stella cotton/lycra knit (from Crafty Mamas).  I suspect that the gathered sleeve is rapidly going out of fashion again (it’s been overtaken by the peplum as the trend that you see everywhere) but I find them rather flattering and a nice detail.

StyleARC Alice top

This was a size 12, cut slightly straighter through the waist. I sew on elastic to create the gathering in the centre front and down the centre of the sleeves. Rather than cutting the elastic at the recommended length then attaching it, I mark the start and end point on the elastic in pen so that I have something to hold on to (both behind the needle as well as in front of it) then stretch it like made to ensure that the marks line up where they should. This technique seems to work quite well.

StyleARC Alice top

I think that this will be a versatile top – I really like the colour, and the fabric is delicious quality. While I was at it, I made a pair of Kerry (cargo) pants, but without the cargo pockets. I did retain pockets in the side seams. I was looking to make a pair of comfortable pants that would be cool in summer – these fit the bill.

StyleARC Kerry (cargo) pant

When I first made these I added the side tabs from the pattern and rolled up the legs, forgetting that I’d overlocked the seam edges in a different colour. There was also too much bulk. So to salvage the situation I unpicked the side tabs, hacked a whole lot of fabric from the hem, and rehemmed the pants to a finished, unrolled length. I actually rather like them now – simple in style, but a knock-you-out colour. And I’m very happy with the fit (size 10).

StyleARC Kerry (cargo) pant

These have a simple drawstring waist, but you could use elastic as an alternative. There isn’t much bulk around the waist since the pants are fairly slim-fitting through the bottom and hips, just enough room to get the pants on. The pants legs are loose but not too wide. It’s just what I was looking for. The fabric came from Rathdowne Fabrics, and I’m unsure about the composition. It is a shot woven, with turquoise threads running one way and metallic bronze the other. They’re rather light and have worn well, and don’t need a great deal of ironing.

StyleARC Alice top with StyleARC Kerry (cargo) pant

Another cool outfit for hot summer days – we had a real doozy here in Melbourne yesterday, almost 40 degrees! I’m really not too good at the heat, despite growing up in country Victoria where it hovered around those temperatures for weeks on end, not even cooling down much at night. I have grown soft – I love our refrigerated air conditioning.

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

another Hopscotch

Yes, it’s another Hopscotch dress!  This time for Clare.

Oliver + S Hopscotch dress

Oh, quality fabric makes such a difference! This is a beautiful cotton/lycra that was sourced by a friend. It sews and wears incredibly well (I have a Renfrew in the same fabric and luckily have enough left for a summer top for myself). I worked hard to line up the stripes as well as I could when cutting out, and made sure that the neck band had a fine black stripe going right around it.

Oliver + S Hopscotch dress

And the obligatory shot of the back of the dress – you can see how simple it is but still nicely shaped with a very gentle flare. You can also see my efforts at a french braid – something that I rarely do and need more practice with.

Oliver + S Hopscotch dress

This is size 8 for Clare, which is a nice fit throughout. She actually measures smaller than this for Oliver + S patterns, but I’m happy with the 8 in most things. I promise that I will put this pattern aside for a little while now. Although I do have some beautiful Liberty floral cotton-lycra that this would work well with.

Oliver + S Hopscotch dress

adult's clothing, sewing, vintage patterns

McCalls 8238 (vintage)

You might remember that upon my return from Sewjourn I just wasn’t feeling the love for McCalls 8238.  For some reason, when I put it on, it just wasn’t me.  I knew that part of it was how high the neckline was, but that wasn’t all.  The darts were a little high, and the bias cut flowed over and highlighted my curves, including the extra curves around my middle.  I deliberated about how I could alter it, but still couldn’t get enthused.  Then a vision flashed before my eyes – a vision of my friend Rachael, and how much this dress would probably suit her exactly as it was.

McCalls 8238 (vintage)

She popped over to try it on, and I was right – it was absolutely her. I forced her into allowing me to take her photo in it for blog display as payment.  I didn’t even give her time to put her shoes on, being worried that she might back out!

McCalls 8238 (vintage)

Rachael is way, way taller than me, and has a waist – and this dress looks SO much better on her! Hooray! The print really suits her colouring and her general style. I’m so pleased – as is she.

So it’s on to making a Lily dress for me instead.

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

New Look 6960

The last item that I managed to get sewn at Sewjourn was a New Look 6960 dress for Stella.  I was frantically sewing right up to our departure deadline to get this one completely finished – I really wanted to be able to give it to her when I got home!

New Look 6960 view D

I had great difficulty in getting Stella to pose “prettily” for photos in this dress. Most of the ones that I took were along these lines:

New Look 6960 view D

For my skinny girl I cut the dress out in size 5 length with size 3 width. I do find that most commercial children’s patterns are rather wide, and even cutting this at size 3 leaves it with plenty of room. This pattern comes in three main variations; sleeveless, with a little flutter sleeve – as I made for Stella – and with a larger but still short sleeve. I really like the round yoke and soft gathers.

New Look 6960 view D

Stella was particularly keen to have this dress made with the heart applique, as in the drawings on the pattern envelope. It closes with a zip in the centre back. I was extremely fortunate to have Nikki handy to remind me about the groovy way that she inserts invisible zips to get a lovely clean finish with the top facing. This photo is a little deceptive – the yoke seams and the neckline on each side of the back actually line up much more nicely in real life than the photo suggests – the print changes the way that it appears in the photo.

New Look 6960 view D

The fabric is a light cotton twill that I picked up from a local op-shop. Stella is quite happy with it. I really do like New Look patterns for little girl’s dresses. This one is now out of print but I think that it can be found on etsy/ebay etc relatively easily.

New Look 6960 view D

We’re just back from a relaxing overnight camping trip to Korumburra with relatives. The girls were SO excited that we were staying in a tent. They roamed around the campgrounds and enjoyed the playgrounds, chatted to random campers, and even got to watch a wedding that was taking place in an adjoining area. Both girls are at such delightful ages.  It was well worth the effort involved in going away, even for such a short break, and especially good to take the time to relax and regroup before heading into the pre-Christmas rush.

New Look 6960 view D

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

hopscotch top and sailboat skirt

More from the Sewjourn weekend, and more from Oliver + S patterns.

Hopscotch top and Sailboat skirt

The top is from the Hopscotch pattern, and the skirt from the Sailboat pattern. Both were made from fabric scraps left from other projects – happily, now all gone! I always feel quite satisfied when I use up pretty much every bit of a fabric length.

Hopscotch top

The fabric for the top is a cotton interlock from Spotty a couple of years back. It’s quite a nice weight and feel, but the recovery is fairly poor (no lycra content). However it works well in a top like this, with the gathers at the front and bound neckline.  I used a zig-zag stitch to finish sleeve and hem edges and along the front binding.

Oliver + S Sailboat Skirt - front

The skirt is in cotton drill. I was lucky enough to use Karen‘s snap press to attach snaps to the front for fastening rather than sewing buttonholes and buttons.    Never again will I attempt to attach snaps by hammering them in – the press works SO much better!  The front “pockets” aren’t terribly functional as pockets, since they allow for opening the skirt at the front to get it on.  But they do look cute!  The back is elasticised, and has a little kick pleat to allow for movement.  Simple top-stitching finishes the edges and the hem.

Hopscotch top and Sailboat skirt

(And yes, those are quilter’s pencils in Clare’s bun).  Each time I sew an Oliver + S pattern I am pleased with the detailing and the instructions really do give a well finished item. I sewed both the top and skirt in size 8 for Clare, and am pleased with the fit. So is she.

Hopscotch top and Sailboat skirt

what I wore

what I wore – weeks 45 & 46

Christmas is far too close now.  After all, I still have Christmas sewing to do!  A dress for me, a dress for Clare, a dress for Stella, a top and skirt for Freya, a shirt for Dan – luckily they are all cut out and ready to sew, but I think that I’ll have to draw up some sort of sewing timetable to keep myself on track.  I had an unexpected day off work yesterday because Miss Stella came down with an ear infection (and spent many hours wide awake in bed with me overnight – and I’m not used to that any more) which did allow me to finish off some cutting.  I’m a little worried about my Stella though – we’re going to see an audiologist, because it looks as though she has chronic otitis media.  Time to get it all checked out properly.  She’s such a tough little kid though – doesn’t complain unless things are really bad.  The doctor couldn’t quite believe how well she presented in comparison to how bad her eardrum looked.  She also refuses medication.  Just wants Mummy.  Anyway, she’s on the improve again and I’m sure that we’ll get these recurrent ear infections sorted soon.

So back to my (bulging) wardrobe!  Here’s almost all the clothes that got an outing over the past two weeks.

what I wore - weeks 45 & 46

My black and white striped dress is on regular rotation – I think it’s getting worn each week.  Must think about that in terms of future wardrobe planning.  Looking back over these photos I realise that I am a definite fan of stretch fabrics, whether woven or knit, and strategic draping.  I’m also a fan of wine and chocolate.

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

Hopscotch dress for Stella

I think that the Oliver + S Hopscotch dress is my most used Oliver + S pattern.  But until now, I’ve only used it for nighties and pyjamas!  It’s finally become a dress (and a top for Clare, but that is for a later blog post).

Oliver + S Hopscotch Dress for Stella

This patterns combines a few elements that I love – it’s simple, it’s well drafted, it is comfortable, it’s for knits, and it is versatile. I used left over cotton/lycra from other projects for this iteration. This is gorgeous quality fabric (originally from Darn Cheap fabrics) and I’m a little sad that this is the last of it.

Oliver + S Hopscotch Dress for Stella

Now it is time for me to blow my own trumpet – check out that stripe matching! Although I had a slight problem when constructing this dress, when I forgot to match the notches properly when assembling the front and didn’t overlap the front yokes enough, then didn’t gather the front much and wondered why it didn’t seem as gathered as usual but didn’t realise that it wasn’t right because I’d done something wrong and then had to fix it all up once I thought it was complete – I absolutely love the finished result. Thank goodness for a quick unpick. I’m pleased that I used a zig-zag stitch rather than my usual twin needle for finishing all the hems and front edges – and I really prefer the end result.

Oliver + S Hopscotch Dress for Stella

I’m sure that this dress will get loads of wear over summer. I’ve cut one out for Clare too, in red with black striped cotton/lycra. I definitely recommend this pattern. I’m certain that this won’t be the last time that I use it – and I haven’t even got on to making that gorgeous skirt with the clever folded pockets yet!

patterns

new Butterick patterns I haven’t bought

Butterick have released some new patterns.  I don’t actually own many Butterick patterns – not quite sure why, maybe they don’t go on sale as often as some other pattern lines – but there are quite a few that I fancy for me in this release.  I always find it more helpful to look at the line drawings of the garments than the photos, since then I don’t get as distracted by the model’s pose or the fabric they’ve made the item in or how it has been styled.

Butterick 5862 – although someone has had a problem with knowing the different between a drawing of the front and the back.  I know, it’s yet another wrap dress, but I think that this one looks a little more flattering than many, and I like the sleeve length options.

Butterick 5858 – I love the dramatic sweep of the skirt combined with the long top.  It’s styled in a very 20s way in the photo.  I probably wouldn’t make this, but I like it.

Butterick 5848 – rather dramatic, interesting seaming, loose and comfortable.  Ignore the fact that they say it’s also suitable for maternity….

And last but not least, Butterick 5856 – all that ruching and draping would be quite flattering in the right knit.

But I do have to ask, what were the designers of Butterick 5853 thinking with that bow placement on an otherwise lovely dress?

adult's clothing, sewing

Simplicity 2254

Usually after I’ve been to Sewjourn I don’t touch my sewing machine or overlocker for more than a week.  This time has been no exception, although I do have some pre-Christmas sewing plans.  I’d like to make Christmas dresses for myself, Stella, Clare, a shirt for my husband, and a top and skirt for my cousin Freya.  That is, let’s see, six items.  In less than five weeks, which will also involve a weekend camping trip, a visit to my parents, assorted work Christmas functions, and the odd meeting or two. Eeeeeeek!

Anyway, back to Sewjourn sewing.  Rachel kindly gave me Simplicity 2254 last time that we were at Sewjourn, so this time I made it!  I used scraps of mystery knit left over from another project.  There was very little fabric but I managed to squeeze out View D, the shorter length and shorter sleeves, with no fancy embellishments or details.

Simplicity 2254, view C

This top turned out much more nicely than I’d anticipated. It’s actually drafted for wovens, but I figured that it would be fine in a knit. As you know, I like an empire line top; it flows over my middle rolls better than something fitted, which just tends to highlight them with a sausage casing effect. I know that many people worry about looking pregnant in empire lines – I figure that at my age, most people won’t make that assumption. And comfort wins out. There is elastic threaded through a casing made from the seam allowances in the back, between the upper and the skirt portion of the top. It brings the top in nicely to hug the body and give it more definition.

Simplicity 2254, view C

My only criticism of this top is that the neck band doesn’t completely hug the body through the front neckline, but stands away slightly in a couple of places. This is probably because I cut the facing on the cross grain, due to fabric limitations. In retrospect, I should have probably just cut the facing from a coordinating fabric – but I didn’t think of that at the time. Ah, hindsight, you’re such a wonderful thing! I really like this top with my StyleARC Elle pants.

Simplicity 2254, view C

Although I haven’t done any sewing over the past week, I did enjoy some sewing related activity. I joined seven other Melbourne sewing bloggers for a meet at The Fabric Store (where some bright orange cotton/lycra may have been purchased for another pair of Elle pants) and then on to the Alannah Hill clearance store (where some – gasp – LIBERTY floral cotton/lycra may have been purchased for tops for Clare and Stella). Of course, after all that fabric perusal we need to sit down and refresh ourselves with a beer/cider/champage at Little Creatures.

Little Creatures-1286
(Rachel, me, Anna, Leigh and Steph – the others had to depart before this was taken.  Photo blatantly stolen from Rachel)

As always, it was so much fun to talk fabric and patterns and construction with other women who care about it! Thanks to all of you for a fun afternoon.  I felt a little younger and hipper and groovier being out with you all, and enjoyed all the people watching along Brunswick St and Johnston St as I wandered back to the tram in the spring afternoon sunshine.  It reminded my of my long-ago uni days…

Has anyone been wondering about my bedroom renovation? The wardrobes have been installed, and they are now FULL.

IMG_9227

Oh my goodness. So many clothes. Too many clothes.  I need to get rid of some of them, but find it SO difficult to give away clothes that I have made, and clothes that I like. I’m also grappling with giving away the clothes that don’t currently fit me. I’ve put on well over five kilograms since this time last year, and many of my clothes either don’t fit at all or aren’t comfortable. Shall I just get rid of them and keep what fits now, planning to make more if/when I lose the extra weight, or do I hang on to them waiting for them to fit again? This is an ongoing issue for me, and is part of the reason why I own so many clothes – I have my fat clothes and my thin clothes, because weight fluctuations are a common thing for me. What to do? But I have to say, it is wonderful having everything where I can see it.  And let me add, I do share this wardrobe with my husband – he gets two and a bit doors worth – it is not ALL mine!

IMG_9208

Now there is the carpet to go in, then new curtains to replace the old ones that shredded when I washed them. Oops.

miscellaneous, musings

sew, how much did I make?

Okay, time for my Sewjourn summation!  We’ve been going to Sewjourn twice a year for about three (or is it even four?) years now, so as a group we’ve got ourselves figured out.  We roster breakfast and lunch provisions, eat out on Friday and Saturday nights, and generally just SEW!  And talk and laugh (and sometimes cry), of course.

I like to have as much cutting out as possible done before I head off to Sewjourn, and this time was no exception.  I was working hard on using up scrap fabric, leftovers from other projects.  Unsurprisingly, I have plenty of these oddly shaped and sized scraps.  Eventually I had a plastic tub full of cut out garments, with their associated patterns and notions.  Garments get completed so quickly when this is already done!  I usually take about double (or triple, maybe even quadruple) as much as I could possibly get finished in the time we have available.  This gives me options, so that I can sew what I feel like sewing.

The sewing didn’t actually start off all that well.  After a lovely lunch with the other early arrivals and setting ourselves up in the Studio – although we always make our beds in the House as soon as we arrive, knowing that by the time we stop sewing (usually after midnight) there is no way that we’ll be feeling like making a bed but more like just falling into one – I started on a pair of StyleARC Kerry cargo pants, but without the cargo pockets.  But I just wasn’t feeling the sewjo.  I constructed them, didn’t have the matching colour overlocker thread so used something that coordinated, forgetting that I was later going to roll up the pants cuffs and the seam finishing would be visible.  And then they were too long, so the turn up is super bulky.  I’m not sure whether I’ll unpick the visible overlocker threads and refinish the seam edges with something matching, and cut a heap from the bottom before re-hemming and re-turning up, or if I’ll just offload them to the oppy.  Felt quite flat after making those, really!  But moved on to a StyleARC Tilda top, a pattern I’d used before but in an unsuitable fabric.  This time around was much more successful, and I could feel some sewjo starting to return.  So I started another top, from Simplicity 2254, but went to bed before I finished it – because by then it was around 1.30am.  Some of my more sensible companions had gone to bed at 10.30pm, but I know that others didn’t make it until well after 2.00am!  My problem is that I’m not so great at sleeping in.  I tend to wake at around 6.00am, and although I can sometimes doze, generally I can’t.

But this time I did manage to get around 6 hours of sleep, hooray!  Straight back to the studio and finished off the Simplicity top.  And I liked it!  The sewjo was definitely returning.  So it was on to a StyleARC Alice top, then to a skirt, top and vest combination.  Then another sleeveless tunic.  Whew!  I was on a roll!  By the way, ALL of these garments were knits, so seams were finished on the overlocker or left raw.  It makes for extremely fast sewing.

Eventually I decided that I’d better make something for my daughters.  They love to see what I’ve made for them when I’ve been away.  An Oliver + S knit Hopscotch dress for Stella, a Hopscotch top for Clare, and then Hula Hoop skirts for each of them.  After that were a couple of Oliver + S Sailboat skirts for Clare.  Wow!

And of course, by now the entire weekend is a blur.  What did I do when?  Who was I talking to about that?  Would you like another glass of wine?  Or some more chocolates?  Oh wow, look at that dress you’ve made!  That top!  That skirt!  And that top!  And those dresses!  That bag!  That quilt!  Your crochet!  Shall we have dinner?  Would you like another glass of wine?

I finally assembled McCalls 8238, which was the 90s pattern I’d blogged a couple of weeks ago.  And I suspect that it is a fail.  I’m not feeling the love.  Despite lowering the neckline, it still feels too high.  Bummer.  However, a bias cut is rather lovely.  I might refashion this dress by removing the neckline facing and recutting it into a V.  Shall think further on that one.  The bust darts are also a bit too high.  Maybe I should just re-house it.

And just before we had to pack up and leave I finished off another dress for Stella.  So in summary, over the weekend I had:

  • around 12 hours of sleep
  • around a bottle of wine
  • far too much chocolate
  • forgotten to have some conversations that I was hoping to have
  • yummy food
  • the inspiration of talented women
  • the support of wonderful friends
  • lots of chats about lots of things
  • and finished three garments for Stella, four garments for Clare, and nine garments for me.

So now I’m all stocked up with enough blog fodder to get me through to Christmas, I reckon.

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