THORNBERRY

As part of my recent style/colour consultation, I received a colour swatch (mine is Warm and Deep).  It’s been fun pulling fabrics out of my stash and seeing which ones are in the same family as the swatch.  I figured that comparing colours in the swatch to colours in my linen remnant tub would be a good way to get used to applying some colour theory to my wardrobe. It was an enjoyable hour pulling fabrics out, comparing them to the swatch, then seeing what else was there are how they coordinated.

As you can see, there are lots of colours in the swatch that I already love and wear, but there are a few that I haven’t really explored. Those purples! I will definitely give those ones more of a go. By the way, I will still be sewing and wearing colours that are not in my swatch if they are colours that I like – it’s up to me whether I break the colour ‘rules’ or not! However, keeping the swatch colours in mind will help with wardrobe cohesion. So, let’s see what I made from four of the colours in my linen remnant tub!

I had spotted the Nature Top Tutorial on Instagram a month or two ago and knew that it would be a great way to apply my new swatch knowledge. The tutorial is a combination of written instructions and diagrams and a video. I probably could have figured it out myself, considering that I have done plenty of patchwork and quilting in the past, but sometimes I prefer to use the experience and knowledge of others and pick up a few tips and tricks in the process.

I chose to use the Marilla Walker Maya top as my base pattern. I’ve sewn it a couple of times before and all my previous versions are still in my wardrobe. It’s a boxy top pattern that works well on my boxy shape, and I’ve already made a forward shoulder alteration on the pattern. To sew this top I used the back pattern piece and traced out a full sized copy onto mid-weight non-woven interfacing (that was in stash and I never use in garments; it worked well as pattern paper). I then drew my design and sliced up the pattern pieces, remembering to add seam allowances. Once the top front and back were assembled, I recut one piece with the lower neckline and shoulder line of the front.

The wavy seamlines needed a good steam press at each step along the way. After each press I topstitched beside the seamline in bright mustard thread (mostly because that was already in the sewing machine, and I liked the contrast). I also made bias binding from another shade of remnant linen to use to finish the curved hemline and sleeve hems (I did this before sewing the side seams) and to finish the neckline. Normally this pattern has facings; bias binding worked really well as an alternative. I used the same mustard thread to topstitch down the bias and add an extra detail.

I wore this top to a family lunch with linen pants that happened to be the same linen that the bias was made from! Glad that I kept those scraps. Everyone at the lunch was very complimentary about my outfit, and I felt great in it. Thanks, colour swatch!

So, to the first thing that I sewed in 2023!  There are actually a few outstanding items from 2022 that haven’t made it to the blog yet because they haven’t been photographed, but I think it’s time to just draw a line in the sand and move on!

This is the Tamar Top by Paper Cloth Cut (worn here with linen Style Arc Ethel pants, sewn back in 2015 and now beautifully faded from wearing and washing).

I first saw the pattern on Katherine’s Instagram, and very quickly decided that it was just the sort of thing that would fit well into my wardrobe. As per the pattern website: A loose fitting summer top with a round neck or V-neck at the front and low (see orange and pink top) or modest (see teal top) V-neck at the back. The armhole is gathered with ties in a channel made by the facing, and the sides left open (with an option to close as well). There are two options for the ties at the back neck, two ties make a bow or one tie and a snap fastener. The neckline is finished with bias binding and the hem is a fine pin hem.

Everyone who reads my blog knows that I avoid waist definition in my own clothing, so this pattern ticked lots of boxes for me. A similar silhouette to other patterns that I own, yet enough differences in construction and details for it to be worth buying.

It was difficult for me to choose what size to make. The pattern comes with four sizes : XXS/XS, S/M, L/XL, XXL (6-18 AUS/UK) and is a generous fit. I think that in the end I sewed the L/XL. I chose my size based on the distance from the shoulder seam to the bust point, measuring it on me then comparing it to the pattern.

This is a straightforward pattern to construct, and there are no side seams! There are wide facings that form casings for the ties (the ties exit through buttonholes). Because it’s designed to be oversized, it doesn’t really expose too much flesh below the side seam tie closures, but there is an option to close the sides completely. I finished the neckline edges with self-fabric bias at both the front and back before sewing the vertical seams closed. It gives a really neat finish at the centre front and back V.

I sewed the higher back neckline option, and now realise that it doesn’t really need the ties to stay in place. They’d definitely be necessary with the lower back, but with this higher one they’re really just decorative. One of the harder things to figure out was what size to leave the arm openings. That’s something that is best worked out when wearing the top, but it’s a bit awkward to do on yourself! I just gave it a couple of tries, eventually working out that not many gathers seemed to work best on me.

And of course, you want fabric details!  It’s a really beautiful printed linen that I bought from The Cloth Shop. So many of ‘my’ colours in it, and the more that I sew and wear linen the more I like it. It was bought one day, washed, and sewn up the next.

My fabric stash is extensive.  There are scraps from other projects, remnants bought because they were a bargain, metreage waiting it’s turn, fabric from other people’s stashes that has made it’s way to mine.  Every now and then I sew up scraps or remnants from patterns I’ve used and liked before, happy to donate the resulting garment if it’s not one that I decide I want to keep and wear.  These three knit tops are all in the donation box; none of them are ‘me’ (for a variety of reasons).

This one is almost me (and now that I look at it again, the more I consider pulling it out of the donation box). It’s another Aeolian tee, in a stable knit remnant. I like the grey and the jacquard pattern, and the fabric is warm and spongy – but very polyester. I used rib for the neckband; a band from self-fabric wasn’t going to work.

This one is the Style Arc Rae tunic, with the shoulder seams closed. I wore this to work once, then ditched it. It’s got a nice curved hemline, and I’ll sew the pattern again as the shape is quite good on me. The print is just too intricate in it’s detailing.

Then lastly we have the Style Arc Abigail. This is a pattern that always produces good results for me, but I’ve never worn this top. It only got as far as a try on (and yes, it fits).

The sleeves are at an awkward length, but that could be easily rectified. It’s really the print. I like the style of the print, but the colours just aren’t quite right for me! They’re on the right track, but they’re overwhelming. I recently had a styling session and my colours refreshed with Suzanne Dekyvere; my colours nowadays are more ‘warm and deep’ than the ‘warm spring’ that I oce was. Maybe that’s why this didn’t feel right to me!

This dress was a late wardrobe addition for our USA trip. I wanted something that was casual and warm yet a bit dressier than jeans to wear to Christmas dinner (it ended up that there were 30 of us enjoying Chinese banquet in Denver). I had admired Anna’s version for a long time and decided that an animal print version would work for me.

The fabric is a wool blend knit, bought online from Drapers Fabrics. I had originally been thinking a lightweight ponte, but this is more a jersey. I sewed size 12.

The pattern is the Style Arc Venice Knit Dress. As per the website: Refresh your wardrobe with this sophisticated dress of the moment. The asymmetrical lines create a soft cocoon shape and the optional slit pockets are a great design feature which sets this mid length, long sleeved dress apart. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit, jersey, knit cashmere or any knit fabric with drape.

I chose not to include the slit pockets; I figured that as the fabric was fairly lightweight the skirt would get distorted if I put anything in them. I also shortened the dress an inch (maybe two?) by taking a horizontal fold through both of the skirt pieces then re-drawing the side seamlines accordingly. Once the dress was made the sleeves were way too long – I had done a one inch hem, so just turned it over another inch and rehemmed them.

As it happens, this dress was washed and tumble dried while we were away and the sleeves seem much shorter now! I am going to unpick the second lot of stitching to lengthen them a little bit. The skirt length is still okay.

Construction was all on my overlocker, and it was a very fast sew. I turned the leftovers into a moebius style scarf/loop/cowl thing to add a little warmth.

I plan on sewing this dress again at some stage, possibly in a solid. It’s a good shape for me and would be a good canvas for fun winter scarves, coats, stockings and boots.