sewing

adult's clothing, sewing

Cityscapes dress

I subscribe to emails from The Sewing Workshop, but until recently haven’t used any of their patterns.  This is the Cityscapes dress.

Sewing Workshop Cityscapes dress in ponte

Because my shape has changed I am finding it harder to choose the best size for me when using patterns from companies I haven’t sewn from before. I sewed this dress in size Medium, despite my measurements being more like a Large. I still think it’s a bit to big across my shoulders. I also shortened the pattern considerably by taking folds out of it at a number of places. Shortening from the hem wasn’t an option as that would have affected the cocoon shaping.

Sewing Workshop Cityscapes dress in ponte

The fabric is ponte, I think from Darn Cheap Fabrics. I rather like the colour, but in combination with the high neckline, long sleeves and long dress length, feel a little swamped by blue when wearing it. Tights, shoes and scarves make quite a difference!

Sewing Workshop Cityscapes dress in ponte

The neckline really is too high for my personal preference, and you can see better in these photos that the shoulders are probably a bit too wide. The dress is shaped with long darts that run from just below the bust to the hemline.

Sewing Workshop Cityscapes dress in ponte

I actually think that I may have done a bit of a sway back alteration in this dress, but even given the cocoon shaping, it still looks as though there is excess on me at centre back (which regular readers of my blog know isn’t unusual at all). Construction was shared between the machine and the overlocker.

Sewing Workshop Cityscapes dress in ponte

From the pattern website: Cityscapes Dress Semi-fitted, long sleeve dress has extended darts creating bell shape and tapered midi length hemline. Suggested Fabrics Moderate stretch knit, jersey, interlock, double knit, novelty knit.

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I’m glad that I gave this pattern a try, and would possibly sew it again, but using a lighter weight fabric, narrowing the shoulders and scooping the neckline.  It’s an interesting style – simple, but a little bit quirky in shape.

Sewing Workshop Cityscapes dress in ponte

adult's clothing, sewing, tween

More Elle pants

Not only do I like Style Arc Elle pants for me, but Clare likes them for her!  She did work experience in an engineering firm a couple of months ago, and needed some pants that she could wear to work.  Elle pants to the rescue!

Style Arc Elle pants in Style Arc Bengaline size 6

This pair is in black bengaline, so it’s hard to see them clearly in the photos, but I also sewed her a pair in an eggplant colour and in a neutral beige/brown. They’re SO quick to make!  She’s also got a navy pair that is terrific for Guides.

Style Arc Elle pants in Style Arc Bengaline size 6

I’m pretty sure that these are size 6. I shorten them by taking a fold out of the pattern pieces between the knee and the hem. Construction is all on the overlocker, with the machine just used to twin needle the hems (and to join the ends of the waist elastic together.

Style Arc Elle pants in Style Arc Bengaline size 6

From the Style Arc website: This is the pant of the moment, slim line from ankle to waistline. Elastic waist 35mm or 1 ¼ inch wide. These pants sit so beautifully without any bulk, wear them with your high heels out for the night or with your sneakers for brunch…..a must have piece in your wardrobe! FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Stretch Bengaline is perfect! You can buy Bengaline at our store.

elle-pant

These have the comfort of leggings but the fit of a slim pant, and the fabric elevates them above a ponte pant.  Will skinny pants ever completely go out of fashion?  I doubt it.  I’ll probably be sewing this pattern for the rest of my life.

Style Arc Elle pants in Style Arc Bengaline size 6

By the way, I sewed the jacket a couple of years ago.  The shirt is purchased.

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing

Ottobre dress for Stella

I’ve probably said before that Stella can be quite fussy about what she wears.  Sometimes I’ll sew her something in accordance with her direction, and she’ll say that she likes it, then she never wears it.  She’s recently been wearing this dress that I sewed over a year ago.  She’s had a growth spurt, and this dress is really not a dress any more – it’s a tunic.

dress from Ottobre 4 2016 in plush backed knit from Spotlight with rib trim

The pattern is from Ottobre 4 2016. I really don’t use Ottobre patterns as often as I should. I know that it’s tracing them from the pattern sheets that puts me off, but I also know that it really doesn’t take all that long to do it. Definitely no longer than taping together a pdf pattern!

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The curved raglan shoulder seams appealed to me.  I had some pink rib trim in stash that contrasted nicely with the plush backed knit from Spotlight, so decided to use that for the neckband, cuffs, and as faux piping to highlight the raglan seam shaping.

dress from Ottobre 4 2016 in plush backed knit from Spotlight with rib trim

Now I have to say that the Spotlight plush backed knit was HORRENDOUS to sew. I will never ever sew with that fabric again, and am glad that it was a remnant that I picked up cheaply. The print is sweet, and the reverse side incredibly soft, but it stretched out of shape whenever I tried to topstitch it and it was bulky along seams. The overlocker dealt with the seam bulk very nicely, but there was no way that I could neatly topstitch the bands or the faux piping so that they would lay flatter.

dress from Ottobre 4 2016 in plush backed knit from Spotlight with rib trim

Anyway, the dress has now been worn as a tunic quite a few times, so my effort in sewing it wasn’t wasted. It’s soft against the skin, which is what Stella likes, and is easy to move in. I’d call this garment a semi-success. I won’t be sad to see it leave her wardrobe in next season’s cull.

adult's clothing, sewing, tween

Style Arc Tallulah

Another garment that was sewn a while ago – this one at Sewjourn in April.

Style Arc Tallulah dress in soft viscose knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

It’s fun sewing for the kids! This is the Style Arc Tallulah knit dress, in size 4. The fabric is a super soft viscose/spandex knit from Super Cheap Fabrics. Clare is pretty fussy about what fabrics she wears next to her skin, and this one ticks all of the boxes.

Style Arc Tallulah dress in soft viscose knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

From the Style Arc website: You will love this easy to wear pull-on knit dress sewing pattern. With its long sleeves, the side gathers elevate this style from a simple shift dress to a super fashionable garment. This is a very easy sewing project – you could have a new dress in an afternoon. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Jersey or double knit.

talulah-knit-dress

Style Arc are right – this is an easy dress to sew, and if I hadn’t decided to sew it from striped fabric it would have been very fast.  Because I did use stripes, I spent quite a lot of time getting them all lined up when I cut it out, and pinned every single stripe together before I sewed each seam.  Worth it though!

Style Arc Tallulah dress in soft viscose knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

Clare is around my height now – 158cm tall – and this is pattern length. She prefers it styled with a belt, as she finds the drop waist a bit too late 80s/early 90s and the side gathers hit at a more pleasing location when the skirt is moved up and bodice bloused over the belt.

Style Arc Tallulah dress in soft viscose knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

As is always the case with Style Arc, the pattern is beautifully drafted and there is just the right amount of fullness created by the gathers. I used both the sewing machine and the overlocker in construction, and hems were twin needled after securing with vliesofix.

Style Arc Tallulah dress in soft viscose knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

I have to admit that I do get a great deal of pleasure out of seeing my teen in clothes that are all made by me – in this case dress, cardi and scarf! She does have bought clothes in her wardrobe too, but definitely is more than happy to wear what I make – as long as she has a say in what it is! Very satisfying.

Style Arc Tallulah dress in soft viscose knit from Super Cheap Fabrics

adult's clothing, sewing

Freya the second – but did I blog the first?

This is a wonderful winter casual top.  I first sewed it in brushed merino french terry from The Fabric Store.  This time I used french terry again, but I’m not sure of the fibre composition.

Style Arc Freya tunic in french terry from Clear It

The striped fabric is from Clear It – plenty of Melbourne sewers are wearing garments made from either the green, pink, or orange colourway. Maybe there was a blue colourway too! It’s smooth on one side, with loops on the other. Possibly a cotton, maybe with something else mixed in too. You can see the colour better in this photo.

Style Arc Freya tunic in french terry from Clear It

Yes, the stripes really are rather vibrant! The fabric in the centre is stretch corduroy – I’ve recently sewn it into a pair of pants. The denim on the left is possibly destined to become some sort of coat or jacket – I’m not actually certain. I have done quite well at limiting my fabric purchases this year, generally only buying fabric for specific projects. The denim is an exception – it’s entered general stash, but it’s a fabric that I admired over a couple of visits to Clear It, and it was on sale last time I was there. So I bought it! I’ve been avoiding fabric stores, as that’s the best way for me to not buy more fabric (duh) but Clear It also sell Dangerfield, Revival and Princess Highway clothes, all of which appeal to my fifteen year old and the smallest size fits her. She’s got some adorable jumpers and cardis from Clear It – I am enjoying wearing them vicariously through her. But I digress.

Style Arc Freya tunic in french terry from Clear It

I sewed size 12, and don’t recall making any alterations. Maybe sleeve length, I really can’t quite remember! I topstitched either side of the centre front and angled side front seams, and twin needled the hems. Otherwise construction was on the overlocker. From the Style Arc website: Modern styled, comfortable and chic, this cowl neck tunic with its angled design line and tucked sleeve opening is a great addition to your wardrobe.FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit, baby wool, light ponte, jersey or any sweater knit.

freya-knit-tunic

Both versions of Freya are on high rotation this winter.  They’re great with stretchy pants, a singlet underneath for warmth, then a jacket over the top when I go outside.  Definite winners.

Style Arc Freya tunic in french terry from Clear It

While writing this blog post I eventually realised that I haven’t blogged the first version of this tunic!  I sewed it at Sewjourn in May.  I’ve managed to find a photo thanks to Instagram.

Style Arc Freya in green merino

I have a feeling that this tunic pattern will get many outings over the coming years.  I especially like the sleeve treatment, with the tuck near the hem.  Sleeve interest that isn’t over the top – marvellous!

children's clothing, kids clothing, sewing, tween

Hey June City Park tee

Clare came to me with a dress that no longer fitted, in that it was way too short.  This was a ponte Groove dress that I’d sewed a couple of years prior.  See, my kids do actually grow and get taller!  The before photo from 2016:

Groove dress in ponte from Super Cheap Fabrics

It was pretty straightforward for me to grab a copy of the Hey June Patterns City Park tee and use it as a guide to straighten out the side seams and curve the bottom hem.  Hey presto, too short flared dress becomes a fitted tee!

Hey June patterns City Park tee

The neckline was a bit too open and scooped when I first sewed this – but now it’s perfect! While the pattern was out I also sewed up a long-sleeved tee in white stretch panne velvet from stash for Clare to wear to a fairy themed party. I know, she’s a teenager, it’s a fairy party, some things you never grow out of!

Hey June patterns City Park tee

Just a quick snap to show you the fit. This is a nice basic fitted tee with set in sleeves. I think that I sewed the girls size 14. The panne velvet was appalling stuff to sew. My overlocker handled it okay but it left terrible little pieces of sparkly plasticky fluff absolutely everywhere. Ugh. I’m avoiding that fabric in the future. It did however fit the bill nicely and Clare looked lovely (and warm) when she headed off to the party – with the addition of wings and a wand, of course!

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The cardi is purchased, and the patternless skirt sewn from scuba a couple of years ago.

I have found Hey June patterns to be excellent basics for my daughters.  I have three that I use regularly – the City Park tee (set in sleeves, fairly fitted), Camden Raglan (raglan sleeves, fairly fitted) and the Morrison tee (drop shoulder, loose body, fitted sleeve).  And as they grow I just reprint and cut out the size that I want.  Very worthwhile.

 

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Coral Cardigan – yet again!

This is the third time that I’ve sewn the Style Arc Coral cardigan, and it won’t be the last.

Style Arc Coral Cardigan in striped knit from Clear It

This pattern gave me a terrific opportunity to play with stripes. The double-sided knit from Clear It (which has become many often-worn garments over the past few years – thanks to Anna for replenishing my stash of it) has narrow stripes on one side and wide stripes on the other. I decided to use both sides, each in different locations. This had the added bonus of making stripe-matching much more straightforward!

Style Arc Coral Cardigan in striped knit from Clear It

I sewed size 12, shortening the sleeves a couple of inches before adding the cuff. The centre front bands are the same length; it’s just that I don’t have it on my shoulders evenly in these end-of-the-day photos.  Construction was predominantly on the overlocker, with twin needle stitching on the machine to secure the neckband and the hem.

Style Arc Coral Cardigan in striped knit from Clear It

The neck band on this cardigan sits especially well on me. It’s nice and snug at the back of my neck and stays close. The relaxed styling is also very comfortable. From the Style Arc website: Everyone needs a cardigan, why not this on trend style. It’s shortened front neck band that aligns with the inseam pocket detail give s a simple cardigan a new lease on life. Carol is a lovely square shaped cardigan, very easy to wear and make. FABRIC SUGGESTION Knit, Jersey, Light Ponte or any knit fabric.

coral-cardigan

For me this cardigan is neat enough to wear to work yet relaxed enough to wear on weekends without feeling like I’m at work.  A definite wardrobe workhorse.

Style Arc Coral Cardigan in striped knit from Clear It

adult's clothing, sewing

Sea Change – the layering version

I tested the Lily Sage & Co Sea Change top a couple of years ago (yes, time does fly) and ever since have been intending to sew it up again.  I always thought that it would work well as a layering piece for winter over a long sleeved tee.

Lily Sage Sea Change top in mystery knit

I had some knit fabric in stash (originally from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table, I suspect) that had a fairly open weave that I thought would match well with this pattern. The edges are all finished with bands, and the whole thing is constructed on the overlocker. Ticks all the boxes for working with open weave knits!

Lily Sage Sea Change top in mystery knit

As you can see, this is a very relaxed style of top. The front and back pattern pieces are slightly different in width and neckline, which definitely makes it sit better on the body. I sewed size Medium, I think. Could have been a Large. Oh well. It’s loose and roomy either way!

Lily Sage Sea Change top in mystery knit

My biggest issue with this top is one of user error. I cut the neckband according to the original pattern piece, but it wouldn’t stretch enough in this fabric to fit the neckline nicely. So I re-cut a longer neckband piece. Now it’s really too large and the neckline is too wide. And I have a feeling that I don’t even have scraps of this fabric left to do it a third time. I might stitch some elastic into it to draw it in a little.

Lily Sage Sea Change top in mystery knit

From the pattern website: The Sea Change top is loosely fitted, with wide kimono sleeves. The hem is designed to fall just below the natural waist for a modest, cropped look that will both complement and showcase high waist pants and skirts.  The top length can easily be lengthened through the top. The armbands and bottom hem band can also be altered in length for different looks.  Recommended fabrics: Light to medium weight, drapey fabrics will be the most flattering choices for this top. Options include knit fabrics like jersey. Cotton, viscose, and rayon are good options. Woven fabrics like silk satin, silk crepe de chine, and habutai will also suit this pattern. Extra fabric may be needed to match plaids, stripes or directional prints.

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I think that I’ll sew this pattern up again in a different fabric – it’s not as though there isn’t plenty in stash!  Because the style is straightforward and non fitted, fabric selection makes a big difference. And this afternoon I’ll be addressing the loose neckline of this version.

Lily Sage Sea Change top in mystery knit

bags, Liesl + Co, sewing

Day in the Park Backpack Tote

The Liesl and Co Day in the Park Backpack Tote pattern has been in my collection for ages.  I felt guilty every time that I came across it, because I knew that I’d really like it once I made it, yet I’d left it to languish.  A couple of months ago I attended Soul Craft, and knew that a backpack of the non-sporting-aesthetic variety was just what I needed to take with me.  So finally, out came the pattern, out came the fabric, and I sewed it up!

Liesl and Co Day in the Park Backpack Tote

Bags are super difficult to photograph in ways that really show their true glory. Kudos to those who photograph them professionally! For me, the big drawcard of this bag is the convertible straps. It can be carried as a tote bag, or the straps can be worn differently and it becomes a backpack. It is all to do with the rings and how the straps are threaded through them during construction.

Liesl and Co Day in the Park Backpack Tote

The fabrics are denim from Rathdowne Fabrics (love their remnant bins) and quilting cotton that has been in stash forever. I had a vintage button to use on the outside, and the brass rings and other hardware were in my stash. I’ve got a fair few bag supplies stocked up. There’s also a fair bit of quality fusible woven interfacing throughout. Don’t use low cost poor quality interfacing – it makes such a difference to the finished product if you use the good stuff. You won’t regret it!

Liesl and Co Day in the Park Backpack Tote

This is a fairly simple bag. There is the outer pocket, and some patch pockets on the inside plus a zippered pocket on the inside. Shaping is done through the use of a gusset. It takes patience and lots of pinning and clipping to sew the curved bottom edges nicely, but in the end it all comes together well.

Liesl and Co Day in the Park Backpack Tote

From the pattern website: This versatile bag can be worn as a backpack, shoulder bag, or tote and is suitable as a second project for new sewers. Fully lined interior includes zippered pocket and divided patch pocket for pencils, cell phone, or other small items.

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This worked really well at Soul Craft to carry my keep cup, water bottle, purse, glasses, and the other bits and pieces that I needed to have with me, all while keeping my hands free to pat yarn and fabric.  This pattern definitely gets a thumbs up.

Liesl and Co Day in the Park Backpack Tote

books, sewing, Uncategorized

and the winner is…

Thanks to a random number generator, the winner of an e-book version of Sew…the Garment-Making Book of Knowledge by Barbara Emodi is:

Sewing wisdom-clean your machine and change the needle. The machine will run smoother and your sewing will improve.

Congratulations Marilyn!  Please send me an email with your details and I’ll organise for you to receive a copy of the book.

Many thanks to all the people who shared their sewing wisdom – I encourage you to read through all the comments on the previous blog post; there’s terrific information there!  What a wise lot you all are.

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