Although these are both patterns you’ve seen before, this time I’ve sewn them in quite a different fabrication.

It’s the Style Arc Bob pants again, and the Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee again, but both sewn in suiting-weight woven wool. I was fortunate enough to obtain the length of fabric from a clearance of ex-Job Warehouse stock, and figured that it would be worth a try with the Bob pants.  Having enough of the fabric to cut out the top as well as the pants was an unexpected bonus.

You can see the lovely herringbone grey and white weave in the above photo. From a distance (such as in many of these photos) it reads a bit as a shiny silver, but that’s not really how it is in real life.

Last time I sewed the Bob pants in corduroy I used the Barry pocket pieces, and I did the same thing again for this wool pair. Details are really the same as in my previous post. Someone commented that my Bob pants are a bit more ‘sleek’ than theirs. I sew size 12, which is probably a couple of sizes smaller than recommended for my measurements. My waist to hip ratio is close to 1, and my thighs are relatively small, so as long as I can shimmy into the pants and they’re comfy to wear, adjusting the waist elastic measurement to fit comfortably seems to result in a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing fit (to my eye). I wouldn’t universally suggest going down a size or two for these pants (although wouldn’t suggest sizing up); consider the style ease and your own shape in working out what you prefer. They are meant to be relatively roomy!

I used silk remnants from another project as the inside pocket bag. It adds a little bit of hidden luxury, and smoother to slide your hand into than if both pieces of the pocket bag had been in wool. You can see in the next photo that the elastic doesn’t gather the waist in a great deal for me. I usually leave the elastic secured by a safety pin for a couple of wears before stitching it in place and tucking it properly inside the waistband casing to make sure that I’ve got it right.

Although I’ve sewn the Aeolian tee many times before, I almost always sew it in a knit. Because I was using a suiting weight woven, and because I’ve got larger, I reprinted the pattern and cut it out as size Large instead of the Medium that I have used in the past.

I am pleased with resulting fit. Boxy and oversized, it should layer nicely over a long-sleeved tee and provide plenty of warmth. I used a lighter weight woven cotton to make bias tape that was used to face/finish the neckline, and I topstitched alongside each of the raglan seamlines for both decoration and stability.  The wide hems were also topstitched in place.  I really need to give them another press and get the clapper onto them!

I’m not actually likely to wear these two garments together in this combination, but at least I got some photos taken!

There are a few things that I sewed last year that still need to be blogged!  First up, the only one that is still in my wardrobe.

I have used this fabric for a couple of garments in the past but never got the match of sewing pattern and fabric print right (neither of those garments stayed in the wardrobe for long). I think that this combination is the right one. The Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee is an excellent canvas for this deadstock cotton/spandex print (bought from the now defunct Clear It in Smith St).

You’ve seen the Aeolian on my blog many, many times now, and I have no doubt that you’ll see it again! As per the description on the website, The Aeolian is the perfect boxy cotton tee, as tall as it is wide.
It has a square shaped sleeve, strategically inserted to the armhole for maximum 3D body. Sized down, it makes a perfect sheath. Neat, but not tight. Excellent in a glamour knit for a super clean, mini, cocktail dress. Sized up it responds with mega drapes and kaftan-esque volume.

A print of this scale and style requires some thought before cutting out. I considered where the dominant dark sections would fall, as well as which part of the print would run along the hemline. The final placement worked well. I topstitched along the raglan seamlines and used topstitching to secure the neckband.

The Aeolian tee is definitely one of my tried and true patterns.  The wide hem and cuffs really elevate things.  It’s an excellent palate cleanser pattern for when I just need to sew, but don’t want anything too complex.  Maybe I need to make another one soon!

It’s almost a year since I sewed my wearable muslin of the Pattern Fantastique Vali dress.  It’s already left my wardrobe, but I’ve sewed another one!

This time around I actually did what I said I’d do. I sewed it in a linen blend, did the drop neck version, and did a forward shoulder alteration.

The fabric is from Super Cheap Fabrics. I do like to keep an eye on their website, as they often have industry overstock and roll ends. This print is no longer on their website. From memory it’s a cotton/linen blend, and the print is very ‘surface’. I like the colour mix, although it does photograph differently in every photo depending on the light! It’s a little stiff, but is relaxing more with each wash. I need to iron it from the wrong side, because otherwise my iron grabs onto the print. It doesn’t get super wrinkled – in fact, these photos are taken after a full day of wear, including a car trip.

The forward shoulder alteration is only 1cm, but that is enough to have the yoke sitting better on my body. I sewed size 12. The yoke is quite closely fitted, so do pay attention to your upper chest/bust measurement when selecting what size to sew in this pattern!

I was never likely to wear the top tie done up, and much prefer this version of the dress with the neckline dropping below the yoke into the body of the dress. I’m quite happy to have that lower tie done up, as the opening extends to the bottom of my bra band. The depth of the neckline is easily adjustable (as long as you remember that when sewing).

I really like the curved hemline. It is finished before sewing the side seams, which allows you to get a nice double curve. Most of this dress is sewn on the sewing machine; I only used the overlocker a few times during construction to finish off some seam allowances.

From the Pattern Fantastique website: The Vali Dress is a classic 70’s style glam smock. The high neckline is surrounded by sleeve and yoke gathers. Volumes of fabric, fine ties, topstitched facings and pocket bags will transform the simplest of materials into a romantic, textured and detailed dress or top. The Vali has two neckline options, the standard neckline and a drop neckline, for those who prefer a plunge or need a little more breastfeeding access. Sizes range from 6-26. The yoke is the key fitting point with a high neckline and close-fitting yoke line that gives form to an otherwise full flowing dress. The instructions contain more information on how to measure and choose the best size for you.

I’m still not dead certain about those sleeves on me. SO much volume at the sleeve cuff! I wore them for a day with the elastic secured with a safety pin, and loosened them off a fraction to what you see in the photos. I don’t want my arms to feel strangled! It’s a very comfortable dress to wear. And I do like those pockets. They have side seam access but are sewn to the front of the dress, which stops them from flapping around.

This Vali dress will definitely stay in my wardrobe. I have a feeling that the boofy sleeves will continue to grow on me, and I really like everything else about it. The abstract print reduces the nightdress vibe, and the small alterations I made to this one as compared to the last mean that overall it is much more ‘me’.

Goodness, how did I not get this dress blogged sooner! It’s possibly my favourite sew of 2020.  May I present to you, the Pattern Fantastique Mersis dress!

I first saw this dress when Anna wore a prototype to Frocktails a year or so ago and knew that I would definitely want to sew it when the pattern was released. In the end I pattern tested it (so didn’t pay for the pattern). Nita-Jane likes to get feedback, mostly on the instructions – her pattern making and drafting is superb, I have no suggestions to make on that!

The fabric is linen that I bought in person at The Fabric Store in Dunedin, New Zealand when we visited there a couple of years ago. It’s such a fabulous shade of green and was a perfect fabric souvenir. And a little challenging to thread match from my existing thread stash. I can’t remember which one of these I eventually chose!

I absolutely adore the sleeves. I feel that they have the perfect level of puff, especially given that the fullness is all at the cuff. The sleeves are gathered into a narrow bias cut binding; they’re not elasticised.

This is a garment that takes time and precision sewing. Savour the process and do not rush! And you definitely need to be accurate, especially with those underarm gussets.

From the pattern website: DESIGN: Mersis dress is a shift dress for superstars. The Mersis draws on 80’s glam with generous shapes and peek-a-boo features that suggest more than they reveal. Dynasty balloon sleeves, a deep ‘V’ neck at back and midway ‘V’ for the front neckline. The Centre Front seam features a wide seam allowance topstitched down to enhance the long line from shoulder to hem. The centre front hem features a mitre corner finish and split for the longer lengths. FIT: The Mersis Dress has a shift fit. Loose through the body and slight taper in the dress length hemlines. The ‘V’ necklines are purposefully cut to be above most bra straps and to minimise shoulder drop. Pocket opening and are on high hip to streamline hips and reduce lapline bagging. There’s a lot of ease throughout the body.

I sewed the Midi dress version, which isn’t actually a length that I used to wear very often – but I like it! Do make sure that you reinforce the centre front split with plenty of stitches and possibly even a little interfacing or similar when you sew it – I found this out the hard when when I got out of the car wearing it and heard some of the stitches rip! And because the seams are finished and topstitched so beautifully, it was a hand-stitched fix. Don’t do what I did; make sure that you do that part properly when you first sew it.

Also speaking of ‘don’t do what I did’, make sure that you remove pins before you sew over them or you run the risk of this:

So, back to the dress! I often leave pockets out of dresses, but left then in and I think that they actually provide a nice structural detail.

Nita-Jane is right about the neckline too – there isn’t any bra exposure, and my bra isn’t a skimpy one. And it did pretty much stay on my shoulders – which is a mean feat for me as they are pretty rounded and straps/necklines moving off them is a common issue for me.

I sewed size 14, which was the size suggested by my measurements. At first I thought that I could have gone down one size, but on reflection I think that the 14 is good and it was defintiely comfortable to wear (I wore it to the theatre way back between lockdowns).

So there you go, loads of photos of a dress that I really love. I’ll use the pattern again, maybe to do the top version, but hopefully eventually for a full length stunner like the metallic leopard print version on the pattern website.

This is another repeat, so click here to read more details about my first Pattern Fantastique Calyx Smock.

This time around I sewed the shorter sleeved version, purely because of fabric limitations.

I bought the fabric from someone else’s destash. It’s a soft cotton voile, and I really adore the print.

I do like raglan sleeves, and they make construction very simple. With my small head I probably don’t need the back opening, but I do like the look of the tie that extends from the neckline binding. I did hand-sew the bias binding to the inside of the neckline.

I plan to sew the dress version of this at some stage. Maybe before spring gets here! This one was sewn and photographed in December 2020. I now have both orange and teal pants that would look better with it than the heavier black that I paired it with for these photos.

I am always a little excited when Nita-Jane of Pattern Fantastique releases a new pattern.  Her patterns have interesting design lines and remain stylish for a long time.  This is my wearable muslin of the Vali dress.

I sewed and photographed this dress back in March, and wore it to the Sew Melbourne Garden Party. The fabric is a cotton shirting that was in stash. It has a fine green and white stripe, and a little stretch. This means that it’s not really the ideal fabric for this design. It would be much better in one of the suggested fabrics – a drapey viscose, silk, linen or cotton. Not a tightly woven cotton with some spandex in the mix!

That said, I was aiming at a wearable muslin, and it’s definitely wearable! This is size 12, with the standard neckline. Although the dress is roomy through the body, the yoke is more fitted and I definitely advise selecting your size based on your bust/upper bust measurement. Don’t size down because of the body ease.

I referred to this on the day as my ‘nightie’ dress but I think that’s a function of the colour. Take a look at the Instagram hashtag of #validress to see how it looks in a variety of fabrics. It’s not a quick sew, but it’s very satisfying. Take your time and follow the instructions carefully.  Gathers, binding, side seam pockets, curved hemlines, they’re all enjoyable to do. The sleeve cuffs are easy – they’re elasticised! I suggest cutting the elastic a little long then adjusting it to fit you comfortably. It needs to be firm around your upper arm so that you get the puffiness, but not tight.

From the pattern website: The Vali Dress is a classic 70’s style glam smock. The high neckline is surrounded by sleeve and yoke gathers. Volumes of fabric, fine ties, topstitched facings and pocket bags will transform the simplest of materials into a romantic, textured and detailed dress or top. The Vali has two neckline options, the standard neckline and a drop neckline, for those who prefer a plunge or need a little more breastfeeding access. Sizes range from 6-26. The yoke is the key fitting point with a high neckline and close-fitting yoke line that gives form to an otherwise full flowing dress. The instructions contain more information on how to measure and choose the best size for you.

This dress will probably leave my wardrobe, but I will definitely sew this pattern again in a more suitable fabric, probably with the lower neckline option. I’m still tossing up whether my next go at the pattern will be a dress or the top version.  I’ll also do a forward shoulder adjustment to better fit my shape.

This is one of my most recent projects; it was only sewn two days ago!  Yet another Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee.  I’ve lost track of how often I’ve sewn this pattern.

I’ve sewn this tee in a variety of different knit types over the years. This time I used a Lady McElroy viscose crepe jersey, in a print named Epic Spectacle, that I bought from Seamstress Fabrics.

This is super soft fabric with superb drape, as you’d expect from a viscose jersey. The crepe finish gives it a really lovely texture. However, I did have some trouble topstitching the hems. I am not certain that this was the crepe texture and considerable stretch of the fabric at play, because prior to sewing this I’d been sewing a shirred top for Clare and had been playing around with the bobbin tension of my machine. However, I had reset the tension and tested it out after finishing that top, although on a woven rather than a knit. You can see what I mean ini these photos.

That is not at all the stitch quality that I am used to from my machine! Has anyone else had any difficulties with topstitching on this fabric? My trouble-shooting tips for the next time that I sew with it are to do more test sewing on scraps, stabilise the areas that are being topstitched, and change the machine needle. I don’t think that I am likely to pull this stitching out and re-do it (I think it might upset the surface print, actually) but it’s the only negative in what is otherwise a terrific garment. There were no issues at all with the overlocked seams.

The Aeolian tee has beautifully shaped raglan sleeves and very deep hems. The weight in those hems make the fabric drape and hang extra nicely. From the pattern page on the Pattern Fantastique website: The Aeolian Tee (Pattern #202) is the perfect boxy cotton tee, as tall as it is wide. It has a square shaped sleeve, strategically inserted to the armhole for maximum 3D body. Sized down, it makes a perfect sheath. Neat, but not tight. Excellent in a glamour knit for a super clean, mini, cocktail dress. Sized up it responds with mega drapes and kaftan-esque volume. Fabric recommendations: Knits from light cotton to french terry. The neckband can be done in self (narrow option) works best in light knits. For heavier knits use a contrast rib for neckband can be made in narrow or wider neckband option.

I’ve recently sewn another Pattern Fantastique pattern – the Mersis dress. Stay tuned!

The more I sew from Pattern Fantastique, the more I like their patterns.  You possibly remember that I have already sewn a number of Aeolian tees and Celestial dresses, and my Falda jacket is worn frequently.  Guess what – numerous Calyx smocks are now on my agenda!

This is a pattern that I’ve been eyeing off for some time – Anna has a particularly lovely version. When a proportion of sales were being donated to bushfire relief last month I finally invested in the pattern. From the pattern website: The Calyx Smock (Pattern #104) is named after a part of the flower where petals and fruit form. Balanced between the decorative and utilitarian the idea stems from a memory of my Mother’s hairdressing apron she wore in the late 70s combined with the handmade gathered smock she dressed me in at the same time. Fabric: The Calyx Smock is suitable for many woven fabrics. From fine sheer light-weight silks for some full floaty romance to mid-weight Denim paired with a Glacial Skivvy when winter layering is needed. The limit is to fabrics too thick to bind after gathering: Thick denim and jumbo cord, coat weight fabrics. There are five lovely examples of this smock on the Pattern Fantastique website, with both the dress and the top version shown. Each version can be sewn with a shorter, almost cap length sleeve, or an elbow length sleeve with a wide hem that can easily be turned up to make a cuff if preferred.

The hem is finished with a wide, shaped facing, although you can just turn a simple narrow hem if that suits the fabric better – or just if you want to! I like a wide faced hem, so chose that finish. Wide hems just add that bit more substance and shape.

The neck binding extends into ties at the back. I often skip these types of closures and just cut pieces on the fold – I have a small head and rarely have to undo them to make dressing easier – but this time I did as I was told and included it. I’m glad that I did – there is a centre back seam, also widely self-faced, that adds a nice bit of detail and also makes the opening easy to do and fairly hardy.

The neckline gathering and binding was the most time-consuming part of sewing this top. The instructions included exact measurements for how much to gather up each section, which was really useful. Then it just took lots of pinning and patience to get it all right! If you sew this just make sure that you don’t rush it, especially the part when you turn the binding to enclose the seam allowances and stitch it in place. I did this by machine after using a million pins; some people might find it just as easy to hand-sew the binding in place.

Isn’t this fabric lovely? When you look at it close up it has a jacquard woven through it, with the colourful print over the top. It’s lightweight and floaty and was perfect for this top. I think it was originally from Joy’s in Geelong, who are no longer in operation. I sewed size 12, without any alterations.

Now I need to decide which fabric to make my next Calyx from! I do have some hand-woven printed silk that I bought in Thailand that needs to become a garment – maybe that will be it. Although I’d also like to sew the dress version. So many things to sew, so little time to do it all in!

Sometimes you don’t realise at first what a winner a pattern will be.  You sew it up, wear it, maybe sew another one, then a few years pass and you realise that you are still regularly reaching for that garment.  It just works for you.  So you make it again.

I first sewed the Pattern Fantastique Celestial dress back in 2014! That dress is still in my wardrobe (although a little snug at present). I then sewed it again in 2015.  I am a little surprised that it’s taken me this long to sew it a third time, especially because there have been both a sleeveless and this 3/4 sleeved free pattern expansions released since then.

Oh, I love those sleeves. Wide elastic in a sleeve cuff has really taken my fancy over the past year! They’re very easy to sew too. The whole dress is actually quite straightforward. Sew the bodice shoulder seams, face the neckline and topstitch it down, sew in the sleeves, make the skirt, attach the skirt to the bodice. Then it’s just the finishing details.

I sized up this time to the largest pattern size as I really didn’t want this to pull around my bust. I possibly overdid it a tad – one size smaller than this would have been okay.  The fabric is tencel from Clear It. Tencel really does have a magnificent drape. It’s the shade of blue that wanders toward purple with a greyish cast but somehow remains blue. I wasn’t sure that it would suit me, given that it’s rather cool toned and I am usually drawn to warmer tones, but when I tried on the finished dress I liked it!

It does show the sitting wrinkles a bit, unfortunately, but it’s so nice to wear. The tencel flows and moves and is incredibly comfortable against my skin. I have some of this fabric left, and suspect that my daughters may battle one another for it.

I think that I need to keep this pattern beside my cutting table. I need to sew all the versions! The pattern website describes it as follows: The Celestial Hack #2 maintains the appeal of the original trapeze dress. The new sleeve billows with glamour giving this super modern style a touch of 70’s romance, whilst keeping true to its original simple, utilitarian, beginnings. The new sleeve, length, volume and gathering ratios have been carefully considered to keep in balance with the skirt. 

The free sleeve hack (I don’t like the term ‘hack’ as applied to sewing patterns, but it appears to be a generally accepted term so I just need to accept it and move on) only works in conjunction with the original Celestial dress pattern.  From the Pattern Fantastique website: The Celestial Max Dress (Pattern #102) is our super-femme space age gown. Strong lines and careful shaping give this dress major volume and an elegant fit. The Celestial comes with length options from Maxi to Top lengths. It can be made in most woven fabrics. Perfect for getting married on Mars or becoming your favourite no-fuss dress. RECOMMENDED FABRICS All wovens excluding super-heavyweight thick fabrics. Crisper fabrics will enhance the garment shapes, making the skirt hem appear wider. Lighter fabrics will provide drape, movement and a softer sleeve.

I think that I need some more of both dress versions, in a shorter length.  I also need to give the sleeveless/pinafore version a go.  I feel that these are fashionable patterns that will remain fashionable for years and years – they’re not ‘trendy’ but have interesting shapes and details that make them both interesting to sew and to wear.

You already know that I have sewn myriad Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tees. The other garment of Nita-Jane’s that I especially love is the Falda jacket (my version of it is here). I sewed it back in early 2016, and still wear it regularly.  It is very versatile, and is another pattern that I know I will be sewing for years and years.  Many of you have already sewn the Genoa Tote, a collaboration with Blogless Anna (I have made multiple myself), and I am currently eyeing off the Calyx Smock.  I love the look of the Terra pants and Cove pants but know that I am an elastic waistband woman, so I’m unlikely to sew either of those.  I’m definitely looking forward to the dress pattern that I know is in the works because Anna recently wore a prototype to Frocktails.  Don’t you love it when you find a pattern that works well for years and years?