It’s another pattern repeat!  But with a twist.  Last time I sewed the Cashmerette Cedar dolman top I sewed it in a woven fabric, with faced round neckline and faced ties.

This time around I sewed it in a knit, with narrow hemmed edges, and a v-neckline. None of these changes were difficult to do, and have given the pattern quite a different look to last time.

The fabric is a poly/lycra knit from The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe, and has a lovely hand to it, as well as some excellent colours in the print. I really do enjoy the challenge of sewing garments from remnant pieces! I folded back the front pattern piece at the centre front neckline until it formed a good angle for the V-neckline, then cut it out. I used the same assembly technique for the neckline as I use when sewing the Style Arc Abigail top. It’s easy to get a good finish when there’s a centre front seam!

In essence, construction starts with the shoulder seams.  Then apply a narrow strip (about an inch) of the self fabric along the entire neckline, right sides together.  I stretch it every so slightly, keeping the strip taught as it is applied.  Then turn it to the inside, and topstitch it in place.  On the wrong side trim the strip close to the stitching.  Of course, I do press after every seam that I sew – it really helps to get a good finish.  Then sew the centre front seam, with either lots of pins at the centre front of the V to keep it in place, or after basting.  Then continue with the rest of construction.

From the pattern website: The Cedar Dolman Top is a casual, dolman sleeve top suitable for drapey wovens or knits, with a relaxed fit and an optional pretty knotted detail. Great for beginners, this pattern is as easy to sew as it is to wear. From yoga to brunch, the Cedar has you covered! RECOMMENDED FABRIC:  Midweight jersey or technical fabric with good drape (can be stretch, but not required) or a lightweight woven such as lawn, silk, or rayon. Light weight fusible knit interfacing.

I sewed size 12 C/D.  Narrow turning and hemming the lower hem and tie edges seems to have worked out okay, although it does mean that the wrong side of the fabric can show on the ties.  I didn’t have enough fabric to cut the facings.  This has proven itself to be a terrific work top for a variety of climates.  I definitely recommend the pattern.

I’ve been trying to use up odd sized fabric leftovers this year.  It is a great way to try out new patterns and sew maybe wearable muslins, and it pushes me creatively.  I thought it was better that I get them blogged than wait until I get modelled photos (which might never happen).  For instance, this top was sewn in January!

This is the Pattern Emporium Crush On Me tee in the scoop neck version.  Isn’t that fish fabric fabulous!  It came from Clear It a couple of years ago.  I think that I only have the smallest of scraps left.  I didn’t have enough to use the same fabric on the back, or for the bands, so found other small pieces of knits that coordinated to use instead. I had to add a seam down the centre back.

As you can see, this is a very simple top pattern.  There really isn’t much to it!  The pattern website describes it as follows: The Crush On Me Tee is going to be your new best friend. Oversized to perfection with just the right amount of slouch and some subtle shaping to have you looking feminine, relaxed and cool as a cucumber!  STYLE OPTIONS: Choose from tee, tunic or dress, scoop or boat neck, hi-lo or even hem, plain or pleat detail back. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS: Designed for stretch knit fabrics. The best fabrics to use are knits with drape & fluidity in both 2-way & 4-way knits. Options include rayon elastane jersey, polyester spandex, poly/rayon spandex, ITY jersey, wool jersey, rayon/bamboo elastane knit, rayon jersey, Boo! spandex. COTTON LYCRA IS NOT SUITABLE for the main part of this top but is suitable for the arm & neck bands because it tends to make an oversized garment look bulky. 

Now what amuses me is that of course despite the fabric suggestions, that fish fabric that I used on the front IS cotton lycra.  Whoops!  And the top did feel about a size too big on me.  It’s been given away now.

Now, this tunic really did take some pattern tetris to cut from the small amount of quilted knit that was available! It’s Vogue 9275, and you can see my previous rendition of this pattern here. The cowl neckline is in striped ponte; I had just enough of it from a previous project.  This tunic adds some warmth at those times when I don’t want two lots of sleeves.  Unfortunately I did have to shorten the cap sleeves a little to fit the pattern pieces on to my fabric, and this tunic doesn’t sit quite as comfortably in wear as the first one that I made.  I’ll use this pattern again; I’d like to try this tunic in a lighter, softer, drapier knit, and try it without the cowl. The pattern also includes a jacket, leggings and pants – it’s very good value.

And here we have a Cashmerette Washington dress!  I really wasn’t convinced that this pattern would work for me (and to tell you the truth, I’m still not convinced – although I reckon that if I got the proportions just right for me it would be something that I could sew over and over).  But it’s certainly a great pattern for using up smaller pieces of fabric!  The jacquard ponte-type embossed knit that I used for the top was left over from a friend’s Sewjourn project one year; the waist inset is ponte, and the skirt is woven wool remnant (possibly from Rathdowne Fabrics).  I sewed size 12 C/D bodice, grading to 14 through the waist.  And yes, it fits me, but no, I’m not thrilled.  All. That. Black.  I think that I need to raise the waist inset.  Anyway, it’s still in my wardrobe, and I might take it to Sewjourn and ask my sewing mates to repin the waist seam to a better position for me then reassess.   The upper bodice fit is lovely.

This tunic is made from what it looks like it was made from – a blanket!  It’s soft and definitely garment weight.  I picked it up at Restash; the colours and just perfect for me.  I used Lekala 4610 for the general shaping, especially the neckline and associated facing, and adapted it a little to have all the hems end on the fringe.  This tunic has been very warm and fun to wear.

I’ve actually got about five warmer weather tops to share that are currently only modelled on Ada, but I might make a concerted effort to get photos of those.  The year is not yet over!

I’ve sewn a few Cashmerette Concord tees now.  I really like the shoulder/neck/bust fit.  I generally sew size 12C/D bust, graded out to 14 waist then back to 12 hips.

This is fine for fitted tees, that are perfect for layering under other garments. The back could probably do with a short back waist length alteration, but for this type of garment I think it’s neither here nor there.  A lot of the back fold issues are really due to the body underneath the bra and how elastic affects it.

This is such beautiful quality fabric! There’s a narrower blue stripe in there too, which you can see better in the next photo. I really like the neckline depth.

After having sewn a few Concords, I realised that there was still a gap in my pattern arsenal for a tee that had the bust/chest/shoulder fit of the Concord, but was more forgiving through my torso. Stay tuned for a future blog post about my pattern mashup exploration!

Back in March I sewed the Cashmerette Ellis skirt.  I generally only wear skirts that have an elasticised waist, and this one doesn’t, but because it is a Cashmerette pattern I thought that it was worth a try.

And you know what? It’s been a success! The joy of Cashmerette bottom half patterns is that she drafts a version for an ‘apple’ shape as well as a ‘pear’ shape. No, we are not fruit, but most people understand those terms now. I’ve always had a proportionately large waist in comparison to my hips, and a belly, even when I was slim. We apples are often under-represented in sewing patterns (we’re definitely under-represented in ready to wear). We’re not a majority shape, although our numbers do increase in the post-menopausal population. This means that I always appreciate it when I find patterns that take my shape into consideration.

That said, I really wasn’t sure what size to sew at first. My measurements put me at size 12 hips and 16 waist. In the end I decided that rather than grading from one size to the other I would ‘split the difference’ and sew straight size 14 in the apple fit. I have to say, the fit looks pretty good to me!

The black stretch denim was possibly from Rathdowne Fabrics. Topstitching was done with a triple stitch using regular thread in olive green. Banging in the rivets was rather fun too! The pocket and fly construction method worked really nicely – I followed the instructions closely. It interests me how many variations there are on how to do this well.

From the pattern website: Classic denim gets an update with the Ellis Skirt! Designed for stretch wovens, this skirt pattern promises a flawless fit with two pelvis options (apple or pear), a shaped yoke, fitted waistband, and tailored back darts. View A is an iconic jean skirt, featuring a knee-length hem, front slit, rivets, belt loops, and rounded 5-pocket design, while View B is a flirty mini-skirt with clever diagonal pockets and topstitching detail. RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Main: Mid- to heavy-weight stretch woven fabrics such as denim (10 – 12 oz), corduroy, or canvas, with at least 15% stretch across the grain. Lining: non-stretch cotton. 

I sewed view A, the classic jean skirt, but at the length of view B, the mini skirt.  I’m only 158cm tall, and I think that this was a great finished length on me at just above the knee.  I have some yellow denim in stash that might become the mini version of the skirt with the angled front pockets and square back pockets.

The tee that I’m wearing in these photos is also from a Cashmerette pattern, the Concord tee. I sewed size 12 C/D bust, graded to 14 waist, graded back to 12 hips. This is the banded short sleeve version, with the scoop neck. The fabric is cotton/spandex from Clear It. I did pay attention when cutting out to avoid having a large dark medallion on each boob. Now, you all know that I will never wear this tee tucked in like it is in these photos; but this is the best way to show you all the waist detailing of the skirt. I am definitely an untucked person.

This skirt has proven itself to be very comfortable to wear, and importantly it stays up on my relatively hipless shape without completely strangling my mid-section. That’s a definite win for me!

I’ve sewn a few Cashmerette patterns now, and they’ve all been pretty successful.

This is the Pembroke dress.  Cashmerette describe the pattern as follows: Take on your day with the Pembroke Dress & Tunic! This iconic T-shirt dress, in midi or tunic length, is designed for curves with an optional waist tie and modern split hem detail. Choose from three neckline options (scoop, jewel, or turtleneck) and either cuffed or hemmed sleeves. Whether made up in a lightweight ponte or flirty floral jersey, there’s nothing basic about this wardrobe essential!

As you can see, I sewed the dress version with cuffed three-quarter sleeves, and the scoop neck option.  I did also include the waist ties.

The ties can be done up at the front, as in the pattern illustrations, but I tried them at the back too. I generally avoid any type of waist definition, because all it defines is that I am very straight up and down from the front and have quite a belly.  But I gave it a go.

The back has my usual short back waist length issues. I REALLY need to start making that alteration as part of standard practice, like I do with grading out through the waist (this dress is the 12 C/D graded to somewhere between 14 and 16 through the waist). Too much extra fabric. You can also see it easily when the ties are at the back – it almost blouses.

I gave this dress away. It’s unfortunate, because I really love the fabric – it’s a quality European cotton/spandex from Crafty Mamas Fabrics – and  I like the general idea of this dress, but I knew that I just wasn’t going to wear it with those ties. And rather than just remove the ties and/or shorten the dress into a top, I hoped that someone else would wear it as it is and look and feel great in it.

That’s not to say that I have a problem with the pattern – I’m pretty sure that I’d use the pattern again. But I’d probably size up, do tunic length, leave out the ties, and do a short back waist length alteration.

I bought this pattern for the workout tank (yeah, self delusional regarding the likelihood of doing a workout) but have sewn the Cedar dolman top!

From the Cashmerette website: Step up your game with the Cedar Workout Tank and Dolman Top! View A is a sleek workout tank, featuring princess seams, a v-neck or crew neck, optional decorative straps, and an easy foldover elastic finish.  Afterwards, clean up with View B, a casual, dolman sleeve top suitable for drapey wovens or knits, with a relaxed fit and an optional pretty knotted detail. From yoga to brunch, this duo of patterns has you covered with stylish, sporty design.

As is obvious, I sewed view B, the top, with the front tie.  I sewed size 12 C/D, grading to size 14 through the waist.  The fabric is printed rayon from my stash.  For once I am unsure about its provenance – maybe it was a Darn Cheap Fabrics remnant?

These photos were taken at the end of a work day, after taking off a jacket, and the sleeves are pretty crumpled. Please take it from me that when pressed they are quite even in length!

I faced the neckline, as per the instructions. Generally I swap out neckline facings for binding, and that would have worked quite well as an alternative, but I quite like the structure of the facing on this soft drapey fabric. I had to use a million pins to secure it when I topstitched it in place – I should have pulled out some double sided tape instead. The hemline and ties are also faced and topstitched in place. The sleeve hems are simply turned to the inside and stitched (I did overlock the edge first).

This works really nicely with my wide-legged Fifi pants. This is really a wearable muslin – I don’t know if that print in those colours is really me – but I’ll definitely be sewing this pattern again.

I got rather excited when the Cashmerette Montrose pattern was released.  It’s a basic woven top with sleeves, and you may be wondering why that excited me so much.  Well, it was because of the fit of my Cashmerette Springfield top – a sleeveless woven top that fitted me beautifully in size 12 C/D without alteration.

From the pattern website: Elevate your style with the Montrose Top! This timeless pattern features two variations: View A is a scoop neck blouse with short sleeves and curved back yoke, while View B shows off lace fabrics with a jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back. And, there are standard or full bicep sleeve options for both. Whether you choose a delicate, embroidered tulle, or flirty floral voile, the Montrose Top is sure to be a hit! RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Light- to mid-weight woven opaque or sheer fabrics with good drape, like silk, lawn, voile or lace.

I have some gorgeous lace in my stash that I keep looking at without knowing what pattern to sew it up with, and hoped that this pattern might be just the one that the lace had been waiting for.  Rather than doing what I often do – just cut straight into it – I decided to sew up a muslin.  I found some mid-weight cotton fabric in stash – not really quite enough, so I had to piece the back, but enough for a muslin that might have been wearable.

I chose to sew view A with the scoop neckline and back yoke feature. I cut and sewed straight size 12 C/D, the same size I’d sewn the Springfield woven top in.

Now, some caveats. The fabric is probably a bit stiffer than this pattern would prefer. It’s a mid-weight cotton, a bit like a quilting cotton, and this would definitely benefit from something softer and drapier.

Also, that piecing in the back – the centre back seam and another piece – really do make the back fit look strange. That’s not the fault of the pattern. However, overall I find the fit of this top on me very disappointing. The front neckline is good, and the back neckline and yoke sit nicely across my back. The front sticks out at the bottom, the darts are probably a little high, and the shoulders seem too wide. Also, there is a great deal of excess fabric at the upper back sleeve cap.

I really don’t know that I can be bothered adjusting this pattern to work with my body.  I need the bigger fit through the body, but my upper chest/back/shoulders are comparatively small.  My arms are pretty average I think – this is the regular sleeve option, not the one for a fuller bicep – and this sleeve has way too much space in it for me.

My first thoughts were to narrow the shoulders, remove fabric from the upper sleeve head, lower the bust darts, should I go up a cup size?  I’m a C cup….nah, I think I’ll sew something else.