adult’s clothing – THORNBERRY

Another Gallery dress

A couple of months ago I blogged about a recently sewn Liesl + Co Gallery tunic. It didn’t take long until I pulled out the pattern again to sew myself a Gallery dress!

Becaue this wasn’t long after I’d sewn the tunic, I simply had to tape the dress length pieces back on and knew that it would fit. I had already shortened the sleeves an inch or two from the pattern length. I wish that I’d remembered to do that with a subsequent Liesl + Co pattern (that I’ll blog when I eventually get photos) – I think that Liesl must have long arms!

From the pattern page: Relaxed-fit pull-on tunic or dress. The tunic features cuffed three-quarter-length sleeves and a one-piece collar. The dress includes in-seam pockets, button-cuff full-length sleeves, and a band collar. Both versions include an inset front placket with a fun pleated detail, an inverted box pleat at back, and a curved shirttail hem that’s slightly longer in back.

The details are hard to see in this print but I’ll try a few closer photos.

Speaking of the print, the fabric is a fairly crisp cotton/linen blend that came from Super Cheap Fabrics a year (or two) ago. It’s been sitting in my stash waiting for just the right project – you know, one of those fabrics that you pull out thinking you’ll use it, then putting it back again because that project didn’t really do it justice, then repeat the same process? This time I definitely got it right! It’s gives me a definite Zuri vibe.

I do quite like having the side inseam pockets, although as with all dresses, it’s tempting to load them up a little with things that are a bit heavy – cough, mobile phone – and then that pulls everything a bit askew. So far I’ve worn this dress layered over tights and boots, with a fine wool top underneath and a long-line cardi or jacket over the top, but I’m looking forward to styling it differently as the weather warms up and wearing it trans-seasonally. It’s a definite winner in my wardrobe – I suspect that I’ll still be wearing it years later, just like the one I sewed in 2017!

Saturday, 26 August, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Oslo coat

Firstly – I sewed this a year ago. I took some photos, looked at them and was very unhappy with how the hems were sitting. So it sat, for months, until I fixed the problem. Then it sat again, for months, until I finally got around to taking these photos!

It’s the Tessuti Oslo coat, sewn in wool/cashmere coating from Super Cheap Fabrics, bought a few years ago. It’s actually teal in colour; my phone can never get this shade correct in photos.

From the pattern page: The Oslo Coat is a fully lined, double-breasted style with a shawl collar, full length raglan sleeves and side pockets. This classic style has a straight fit and sits on or just above the knee.

I have just discovered a link on that pattern page to a tutorial for catching the lining hems together! If only I’d realised this tutorial existed before I sewed the coat! It would have helped quite a bit with all that angst, and the many months of leaving the coat to sit. Ah well, now I know for future reference, and hopefully now you know as well if you want to make it!

This is a lined coat, which makes it warm and cosy, but also means that you need to know how to finish the hems properly in order for everything to sit nicely. I eventually catch-stitched the entire facing and the sleeve hems to the main fabric, and used loads of steam and a clapper to press all the edges into submission without anything hanging weirdly or pulling.

I used vintage Liberty silk (!!!) that was in my stash for the lining. I’m generally not likely to wear that type of floral, but it’s super pretty and makes such a special lining. I added a hanging loop to the centre back, and my label. The colour in the above photo is fairly accurate. I also used the Liberty for the pocket bags.

I did add some raglan shoulders pads to help the coat to have a little more structure. The collar does tend to ‘collapse’ a little, but that’s not surprising when you consider that other than interfacing, it doesn’t have much tailoring.

I decided to not both with a button; it’s meant to be slightly double breasted, with one feature button and another hidden on the inside. I really didn’t want to make a mess of the buttonhole through the layers of coating, didn’t want to do a bound buttonhole, and didn’t really know where I could take it to get a professional buttonhole made. So I took the lazy route and just didn’t bother! I might still get a professional buttonhole made at a later stage, but in Melbourne’s relatively mild winters (relative to the Colorado winter we recently experienced!) it should be fine without a closure. However, no closure means that the inside staystitching below the roll line is visible.

I didn’t shorten the coat, so rather than being above or on the knee, on my 158cm frame it’s longer. Now that I’ve finally started wearing it, I am really enjoying it! It’s very warm and cosy, and I love the rich teal colour.

Sunday, 16 July, 2023Saturday, 15 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Wool Bob and Aeolian

Although these are both patterns you’ve seen before, this time I’ve sewn them in quite a different fabrication.

It’s the Style Arc Bob pants again, and the Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee again, but both sewn in suiting-weight woven wool. I was fortunate enough to obtain the length of fabric from a clearance of ex-Job Warehouse stock, and figured that it would be worth a try with the Bob pants. Having enough of the fabric to cut out the top as well as the pants was an unexpected bonus.

You can see the lovely herringbone grey and white weave in the above photo. From a distance (such as in many of these photos) it reads a bit as a shiny silver, but that’s not really how it is in real life.

Last time I sewed the Bob pants in corduroy I used the Barry pocket pieces, and I did the same thing again for this wool pair. Details are really the same as in my previous post. Someone commented that my Bob pants are a bit more ‘sleek’ than theirs. I sew size 12, which is probably a couple of sizes smaller than recommended for my measurements. My waist to hip ratio is close to 1, and my thighs are relatively small, so as long as I can shimmy into the pants and they’re comfy to wear, adjusting the waist elastic measurement to fit comfortably seems to result in a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing fit (to my eye). I wouldn’t universally suggest going down a size or two for these pants (although wouldn’t suggest sizing up); consider the style ease and your own shape in working out what you prefer. They are meant to be relatively roomy!

I used silk remnants from another project as the inside pocket bag. It adds a little bit of hidden luxury, and smoother to slide your hand into than if both pieces of the pocket bag had been in wool. You can see in the next photo that the elastic doesn’t gather the waist in a great deal for me. I usually leave the elastic secured by a safety pin for a couple of wears before stitching it in place and tucking it properly inside the waistband casing to make sure that I’ve got it right.

Although I’ve sewn the Aeolian tee many times before, I almost always sew it in a knit. Because I was using a suiting weight woven, and because I’ve got larger, I reprinted the pattern and cut it out as size Large instead of the Medium that I have used in the past.

I am pleased with resulting fit. Boxy and oversized, it should layer nicely over a long-sleeved tee and provide plenty of warmth. I used a lighter weight woven cotton to make bias tape that was used to face/finish the neckline, and I topstitched alongside each of the raglan seamlines for both decoration and stability. The wide hems were also topstitched in place. I really need to give them another press and get the clapper onto them!

I’m not actually likely to wear these two garments together in this combination, but at least I got some photos taken!

Saturday, 15 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Feeling cosy – Mandy tee and Palermo pants

Sometimes you just need to be comfortable and cosy. This set definitely fits the bill.

The top is the Tessuti Mandy boat tee, yet again! Size Large, with full length sleeves. You need to choose your fabric carefully when sewing this top as it needs to have enough stretch for the seam around the bicep to be comfortable. If you’re looking for an alternative tee pattern with a wider sleeve, check out the Grainline Hemlock tee (free to newsletter subscribers).

If you pay attention at the cutting out stage, it’s not too difficult to match the stripes at the side seams. I usually check that the stripes at the top point of the underarm and the hem line match up.

The fabric is stretch french terry that came to me via a friend, but I think originally came from Clear It when it was open and selling deadstock fabric. It’s superb quality, really easy to sew and to wear, and feels like it has some viscose content. I actually cut out the pants before realising that I had enough of the fabric to also make a top. As it turns out, I even had enough to eke out a simple sleeveless tunic top as well! I’ll get that blogged at a later stage.

I’ve sewn the Style Arc Palermo pants once before, in black wool french terry, and have found that I wear them a great deal when working or lounging at home.

As you can see, I didn’t do as good a job with lining up the stripes accurately on the crotch seam! But hey, hopefully no-one is staring at my crotch. I don’t bother with the optional cord in the waistband.
From the Style Arc website:
On trend knit pant
Drop crotch
Saddle seam
Elastic waist
In seam pockets
Easy lounge wear fit
Slim leg opening
FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit jersey or any knit fabric with drape.

I can’t decide if all those stripes give more pyjama vibes or prison uniform vibes. Not that I care a great deal! I know that not everyone is a fan of the drop crotch, but I find this one dropped enough to be extra comfortable, but not too extreme. I also really like the leg width.

Wednesday, 5 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing, Stokx Patterns

Stokx Rock and another Aeolian

Oh my goodness, a new pattern! Balanced out with a tried and true, of course.

When I met Lindy of Stokx Patterns fame last year, she gave me a copy of the Stokx Rock to try out. I don’t wear skirts all that often. I wear dresses a lot in summer, and in winter I tend to gravitate to pants or pinafores. I had some denim in stash that I figured would be fine for a hopefully wearable toile.

Choosing a size for anything that is fitted around my waist is always hard for me. My hips are two sizes smaller than my middle, and I don’t have clear waist definition. I eventually chose to sew size 5 (I’d sewn size 3 in Stokx Square Pants) and see how that worked out.

From the pattern page: Material: Woven. The Stokx Rock (Stokx Skirt) has been in demand since 1999.
– It is perfect to wear under a fitted overgarment because it is completely smooth over the tummy.
– It can be styled with knee length boots, flip- flops and everything in between.
– This practical skirt just covers the knee and is wide enough to wear whilst riding a “ladies” bicycle.
– The front piece is cutting diagonally so it can move with you.
– The waist edge is faced with a broad bias band which encases a band for adjustability.
– The closure is an invisible zip in the centre back.
– The original skirt is made in a robust dirt resistant and water resistant “beaver nylon”
– The most important measurement when choosing your size is the measurement of the broadest part of your hips.
– This style is small to size.

The next time that I sew this – and there will definitely be a next time – I will shorten the length to better suit my 158cm height, and I will size down to size 3 or 4. I should have paid more attention to the bit where it says the most important measurement when choosing size was the broadest part of the hip; the bias cut front and the inside adjustable tie should accomodate my waist and belly without too much hassle. The instructions were terrific, as was the drafting. The inside waist facing treatment is simple and clever.

I used a wide self-made bias binding to face the hemline as well as the waist. The skirt (rock is German for ‘skirt’) is extremely comfortable to wear and isn’t restrictive in any way, while still maintaining quite a sleek silhouette.

I wore it with an Aldi long-sleeved merino top and my latest Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee.

This one is sewn in a fleecy lined scuba type of fabric from Spotlight. I bought it for the print (which is Ngapa Jukurrpa – Puyurru (Water Dreaming) by Ada Nangala Dixon, one of Spotlight’s licensed Warlukurlangu Artists Aboriginal Corporation designs. I don’t especially like the fabric type (too synthetic) but I definitely love the colours and shapes in the print! I sewed size Medium, using the overlocker for construction and the machine for topstitching.

I now have three more Stokx patterns cut out waiting to be sewn (Square pants, Gossamer dress and Coco jacket), a long knit Aeolian dress waiting to be photographed, and another dress in a different Warlukurlangu print waiting for photos. One thing seems to lead to another!

Tuesday, 4 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Out of my pattern archives – Style Arc Marie jacket

This pattern was sewn twice in 2013, then has sat in my pattern archives for another ten years before once again seeing the light of day. It’s Style Arc’s Marie jacket, one of their older patterns.

I had a single size pattern cut out (still on thin paper which is one of the ways I can tell I’ve had it for ages), in size 12. I used to wear this jacket zipped up; that’s definitely not an option when using the same size ten years later!

You can check out my previous versions of this jacket here and here. Both jackets had plenty of wear by me, then moved to friends’ wardrobes, where I know they are still being worn! Fortunately previous me had kept clarifying notes on the construction tucked inside the pattern envelope, so this wasn’t difficult to sew years later.

The fabric is a bright orange knit, brushed fleecy on the inside. I didn’t have enough of the same fabric for the wide facing that turns back to form the collar, so I used a contrasting marled grey in a lighter weight knit instead. To tie in the grey I used a grey separating zipper, and did all the topstitching in grey. From the Style Arc website: This up to the minute jacket with interesting design lines and off centre front zip which can be worn closed or left open allowing it to fall into a wonderful front drape. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Light Ponte, Merino knit or any soft knit that is stable enough to hold a zip.

The resulting jacket is rather fun and is very comfortable and cosy to wear, given that it’s all stretchy. I popped a small grey button at the top of the zip to prevent the zipper pull from coming off where I’d cut the plastic zip to length (yes, I was definitely trying to use what I had, rather than go out and buy anything). Construction was shared between the sewing machine and the overlocker.

Monday, 3 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Mandy boat tee – the pattern that I will be using for the rest of my life

This pattern is probably the most used pattern that I have.

The Tessuti Mandy boat tee – a free pattern – has been around since 2013, originally in just one size, and was updated in 2018 to include four sizes, two sleeve lengths and some reworking of the back neckline. I generally sew the size Medium or Large, depending on the fabric that I am using and my current size. I have altered the pattern to include a forward shoulder adjustment.

I really like the neckline on this top. I use double sided fusible tape to secure it in place, then a twin needle to stitch it down. The neckline is finished before the shoulder seams, and it’s really straightforward. This time around I sewed size Large, with full length sleeves. The fabric is left over from a dress I made last winter; it was originally from Super Cheap Fabrics.

If you look closely you can see the design choice that I had to make in order to squeeze this top out of scraps. Can you tell what it is?

Yeah, I think that I’ll be sewing this pattern until the day comes when I can no longer sew.

Sunday, 2 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, tessuti patterns

Bob pants and Athina top

I barely need to say it, do I! These are both repeat patterns.

I first sewed the Style Arc Bob pants in 2019, in chambray and in linen. I enjoy wearing both pairs, and wondered if the pattern would work in a more wintery fabric such as corduroy. As it turns out, it does!

I sewed the same size 12, with legs shortened an inch and a half for my 158cm height. I did alter the front pattern piece to give an angled pocket opening, rather than do the inseam pockets that were included in the pattern. This was very straightforward; I just grabbed the two pocket pieces out of the Barry pattern and used those, in combination with folding back the top of the front leg pattern at the side seam at the same angle as the pocket piece. I much prefer this style of pocket; it doesn’t flap around as it is secured into the front waist seam, and it’s still nice and deep.

The corduroy came from The Cloth Shop, and it’s very soft and drapey. Choose your corduroy carefully; this wide-wale soft cotton works beautifully. The waistband is quite wide; I find wide elastic very comfortable in waistbands. I did my usual trick of securing the elastic with a safety pin and wearing it a few times before securing it. This helps me to make sure it is at the most comfortable length for me.

From the Style Arc website: Achieve great style with this simple pant. The pattern for this pant leg has been engineered to create the balloon shape. Casual inseam pockets and elastic waist make this a must addition to your wardrobe. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Washed linen, light wool, rayon, crepe. Note that there is now a step-by-step tutorial for sewing the Bob pants, and a quick Google reveals customer reviews and tutorials on YouTube. I have cut out another pair of Bob pants for winter, this time in grey herringbone weave wool. Maybe they’ll get sewn up later today!

If I am counting correctly, this is the sixth time I have sewn the Tessuti Athina top (a free pattern). In many ways it is the woven version of the Tessuti Mandy boat tee. I sew size Large, with a forward shoulder adjustment. This is the shorter length; the other is definitely tunic length on me. From the Tessuti website: The Athina Top is a boxy style featuring an extended shoulder and dropped sleeve. Comfortable and casual, this simple garment is a quick and easy sew and looks great with skirts, pants & jeans. The pattern includes two length options. Sizes (AUS): XS-XL Recommended fabrics: woven fabrics including linen, lightweight wool and cottons. Not suitable for knits, stretch wovens or stiff cottons.

There is a story to the fabric that I used. I picked up the fabulous green floral from a friend at a destash event (it’s from the Outback Wife range by Gertrude Made that was wildly popular a few years ago). It turns out that she got it from another sewing friends destash! As you can see, I didn’t have quite enough fabric for an entire garment, so I used a coordinating blue crepe from stash for the back. It matches the blue in the flowers.

There’s not much more to report about this pattern – it’s definitely a tried and true for me, and I can sew one in a short amount of time. I use bias binding applied like a facing to finish the neckline. This is definitely outfit success for me – I love both the top and the pants!

I even tried doing the front tuck that is so popular again nowadays (I used to do that back in the early 1990s). Although it looks okay in these photos, it didn’t look okay in real life. The verdict from me and my daughters was a resounding, unanimous ‘no’. No tucking in for me – whether full tuck or half tuck!

Saturday, 1 July, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Vogue 9057 aka Vogue 1733

I haven’t even counted how many times I’ve sewn this pattern – it must be into double figures by now. I’m not going to go into much detail; just use the search feature on my blog if you want to find my previous versions.

It’s Vogue 9057, first published in 2014 and still in print but now as Vogue 1733. It was a Pattern Review best pattern in 2015, 2016 and 2017, and there are more than eighty reviews of it there at the moment.

I tend to sew size Medium, which is smaller than my measurements would suggest. Marcy Tilton designed this pattern, and it seems to work really well on most body shapes. I generally sew view D/E, with the points in the front hemline. I finished the sleeves with cuffs because of fabric restrictions that meant I had to cut the sleeves shorter than utilise scraps to make cuffs to get them to full length.

The fabric is a printed remnant that I found at The Cloth Shop. I always like to ferret through the remnant bins! I suspect that I’m more likely to wear this type of print to work than casually, but this is how I wore it a week or two ago.

Friday, 30 June, 2023Friday, 30 June, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Style Arc Joy woven vest #2

After sewing Stella’s Style Arc Joy woven vest, she asked for another one the next size up. The first one is quite snug! So I reprinted the pattern and cut size 6.

This time around I used a striped fabric that I’d bought on my excellent visit to Stonemountain & Daughter with Sue. It’s got an interesting weave and includes three colours that Stella wears often.

Because I’d sewn it not long before, it was very straightforward to make a second time. I did have to be careful to not overhandle the pieces as the fabric was prone to fraying. Rather than use self-fabric to line it like I did the first time, I found a smooth cotton/linen in stash in beige and lined it in that.

The buttons are brown shell buttons that I am pretty sure I bought from Thailand via Etsy. The pockets on this vest aren’t pockets at all, just non-functional pocket welt-style flaps that are there for decoration. I did need to ensure that they lined up and were at the same angle!

Stella recently turned sixteen – yes! sixteen! – which reminds me that I started this blog when I was pregnant with Stella. Sixteen years of blogging, good grief! It still serves me well as a sewing journal, even though blogs definitely aren’t what they used to be once people switched to Instagram, YouTube and lots now on TikTok. Anyway, this is the outfit that she wore for her birthday party (at home, with a few school friends). Her earrings and necklace are mine, from the 80s! Her shirt is from Uniqlo, and the chocolate brown suede skirt was found in the Goodwill store in Haight-Ashbury, San Francisco. White loafers from Cotton On.

Thursday, 29 June, 2023Wednesday, 28 June, 2023 by thornberry