Tessuti Cut Out Lace Competition entry
When Tessuti announced their most recent competition, the Cut Out Lace Sewing Competition, I looked at the fabric and knew that I would never sew it for myself. I don’t really wear lace, as much as I love it on other people. But I had a very strong suspicion that Clare would like a lace dress. There were three colour ways on offer – black, red and ivory. Clare chose ivory, and I ordered two panels. When it arrived and I opened the parcel all that I could think was “tablecloth”.
Now that I’ve said that, it’s all that you can see too, isn’t it! I had a dilemma – how was I going to best use this fabric in a way that it wouldn’t look like a tablecloth? I ran a few pattern options past Clare, and a few lining options, and in the end we decided to base her dress on view B of Simplicity 8086 with a contrasting taffeta lining.
So, the first challenge. This is a women’s pattern. Clare measured a 4 bust and an 8 waist. I didn’t care about the hip measurement as I knew it was a full skirt. I also checked front and back waist lengths, and shoulder width, and knew that I had some adjustments to make. I really would have made life easier for myself if I’d started with a girl’s pattern. I needed to focus on the bodice pieces. Firstly I graded between sizes where needed then did a SBA to remove the copious bust shaping. Then I cut a muslin from an old sheet and tried it on.
It was SO worth sewing the muslin. As you know, I’m not usually a muslin maker, but there are times when I can really see the value. I made some more alterations, sewed them, tried it on Clare again, then unpicked it completely and used it as the pattern to cut out the lace. Having sewn the muslin also meant that I had all the pattern pieces needed for the bodice, which made working out the lace placement more straightforward. Hooray!
See those instructions? They were basically gobbledygook, so I discarded them completely. I cut out the bodice overlay entirely from the lace. For the under bodice I cut the bodice waistband and lower back pieces from the lace and underlined them with taffeta. I cut the upper front and back bodice from the taffeta as well, then cut all the same pieces again to sew a full bodice lining. The taffeta is a copper colour, with red threads in one direction and green in the other. It has enough depth that the patterns on the lace really stand out, yet it blends fairly well with Clare’s skin tone beneath the looser overlay.
I sewed the overlay, the under bodice, and the lining separately. Then the fun began. I needed to join these pieces in a way that would fully enclose all the seam allowances. There was a lot of fiddling, a lot of pinning, and a lot of working in small spaces involved. I started by putting the overlay in place on top of the under bodice, then sewing the lining to it right sides together around the neckline. This seemed to work okay. Then I used the burrito method to sew one armhole, then the other. The overlay is joined at the neckline and armholes, but hangs free elsewhere. Once I’d done that, I needed to finish the edges of the upper back under bodice. Once again there was a fair bit of pinning and turning inside out. I’d left the waistline and centre back seams open so that I could manipulate the rest of the bodice. By taking things slow and steady, and thinking logically, I was able to complete the bodice other than the centre back seam. I knew that I wanted to leave it for the eventual insertion of an invisible zip.
The skirt width is the full length of two panels of the lace. I cut it as a long rectangle, without any shaping. I underlined it with the taffeta, hoping that the taffeta would add fullness to the pleats and prevent any show through of the seam allowance at the centre back skirt seam. This worked well. Pleat placement was a matter of trial and error. I spent some time manipulating the skirt fabric, measuring, pleating, pinning, unpinning, re-measuring, pinning, checking, and so on, until we had the pleats at a depth and distribution that was pleasing to the eye. The mirroring of the lace was really important here as well – some pleat depths looked better than others. Eventually the pleats were stitched in place, then the skirt attached to the bodice and the seam allowance edges overlocked together. There is quite a bit of bulk in that seam and we wanted it to sit as flat as possible from the outside of the dress.
After all of that it was a relatively simple matter of inserting an invisible zip at the centre back seam. The bulk at the waist seam made this a slightly delicate process, but once again patience was my friend. I sewed a button loop from embroidery thread at the centre back neckline, and covered a button with a flower from the lace, with taffeta underneath.
The last step was to sew the hem by simply turning the edge of the lace under and stitching it by machine. This just made it a little more substantial and helped with the skirt fullness.
This was one of those special sewing occasions where I turned the finished dress around the right way, gave it a shake, and felt a huge smile spread over my face. I just loved it! Then I called Clare – and she had entirely the same reaction. And once she tried it on? Just beautiful. I know that I am biased – she’s my daughter, after all – but I think that this dress is absolutely perfect for her.
We had an absolute ball doing a photo shoot down at the local creek. We managed to get some lovely photos in the natural environment, as well as some at the industrial estate nearby. That green wall is an auto body repairers, and the grey wall belongs to a funeral director!
So now I’ll subject you all to yet more of the photos that I took – because I found it incredibly difficult to narrow down which ones to enter in the competition. There is a week or so left before the competition closes, and there are already a number of stunning entries. I don’t expect to win the competition, but as far as Clare and I are concerned, this dress already takes first prize.
You can follow the entries for the competition on Tessuti’s Pinterest board here.
Beautiful use of lace. Well chosen by both you and your daughter. A difficult fabric to fashion into a garment.
Well done…beautiful finished result!
WOW. What a transformation. A lace “tablecloth” can indeed become a stunning dress. The underlay is absolutely perfect, highlights the cutout wonderfully and the colours fit Clare so well. Good choice!
I always enjoy seeing the lovely clothes you make but you’ve outdone yourself here! Clare looks beautiful and the dress is stunning. I hope Clare has fun wearing it somewhere special and all the best for the competition.
It is stunning Lara! I don’t think you could have chosen a more perfect colour combination for Clare. She looks lovely and you have done a great job with the photographs.
It’s so gorgeous Lara! I have to admit I was dubious about the whole lace thing at first and like you, it would not be for me! But this is simply beautiful- perfect combination of pattern, fabric and recipient! Love!
Both dress and daughter look beautiful. So pleased you made this pattern work as I agree the instructions leave something to be desired! Beautiful work.
just beautiful, well worth all of the effort you put into the fitting and sewing. I love the photos with the wind blowing Clare’s hair, very professional.
linda in Melbourne.
Perfect – such a lovely choice. One of the best uses I’ve seen of this fabric so far.
What a lucky girl
Hi Lara
This is the first comment I have ever made on a blog. I love your posts and your beautiful work on this dress has moved me to write. I think it is beautifully executed, so age appropriate, and sophisticated at the same time.
When I opened my email I saw table cloth, but having seen what can be made from tablecloths I was excited to read on.. I certainly was not disappointed. Clare looks stunning in your wonderful creation. It was the perfect dress to showcase the beautiful lace and your beautiful daughter. Truly well done.
DEFINITELY not a tablecloth- ethereal, elegant and beautiful. Great work.
Wow Lara – I never would have imagined you could use that fabric to make such a stunning and modern dress. Clare looks lovely. Lucky her!
Stunning!
It’s just wonderful. I adore it and she looks so chic and stylish. I hope you win! Xx
That is fabulous, Clare looks gorgeous and I really want her shoes:)
What a wondrous dress you have made from “tablecloth” lace. Clare looks so ethereal and otherworldly, and the lining colour is perfect, as are the pleats.
You did a wonderful job on this. I can just imagine how happy Clare is with this dress. It is beautiful on her!
Gorgeous! Great work, and Clare looks beautiful in her new dress.
Beautiful daughter, beautiful photo shoot, and a beautiful dress!
Absolutely gorgeous
Marcia
Wow! Outstanding! I was extremely doubltful, but you pulled this one off – your craftswomanship and design instincts are right on. I love the photographs!
That is truly lovely.
It’s a lovely outfit. Good luck in the competition.
She has certainly matured this year!! Very beautiful dress on a very beautiful gal
Beautiful dress and daughter. She looks lovely and the dress is awesome. So impressed with your creativity and attention to detail.
Wow!! Your daughter was already lovely. The dress complements her perfectly.
Excellent use of lace.
Great pattern choice + excellent colours + Mum’s hard work and skills + beautiful daughter = WOW! a result that sits easily with those inspiration pictures on the pinterest page. Good luck with the competition, too.
You have transformed this. Your daughter looks wonderful in the dress. As for choice of photo, I think the second from last is the best. It really shows how beautiful the back details are. Good luck for the competition.
Transformed from a tablecloth (agree that is what it looked like) to a ball gown. Beautiful. You deserve to win as it is stunning. Great photos. You need to frame one and put it in the Good Room!
Clare you look beautiful and well done on braving the weather!
Standout!
Stunning dress Lara and absolutely perfect. I think my lace tablecloths are safe for the moment as I don’t think I have the skills required. I think Clare looks stunning.
Oh Lara – she’s gorgeous! Well done with the dress, it’s amazing.
Absolutely stunning! Great pattern choice…ideal for the lace and very age appropriate for your daughter. Impeccable sewing skills. You should be very proud of this one Lara. Wishing you well in the competition.
Beautiful, you should feel very proud.
Just awesome, and your girl is gorgeous too
Lara the outfit is lovely you have captured the theme beautifully and Clare looks lovely and I think your choice of model was spot on, great pics, Lyn
I love the lines of this dress. It’s so chic, and your daughter looks so lovely in it! Your sewing is always amazing.
The dress is just perfect for Clare. Grown up without being to much so. Modest without being dull. She looks very sophisticated but it’s age appropriate. She looks beautiful.
Just lovely. This looks like a winner to me!
I love Clare’s dress! Your choice of pattern and lace placement is perfect. I hope she wears it every chance she gets. A lovely treasure for mother and daughter:)
Absolutely beautiful!!!
I agree it is a definite prize winner
The whole project is stunning. The judges will definately find a place for this dress in the winning list.
wow that is stunning – really beautiful – your daughter is so lucky. well done and as you say even if you don’t win, you’ve still got a winning entry for your daughter to wear – well done.
Truly beautiful. The time you took to ensure perfection was well spent. Be very proud of such a beautiful garment, and not a whiff of tablecloth about it.
This is such a great dress, and I’m so impressed with how you put it together. My brain was rreeling reading it!
This is just stunning. You have done a beautiful job.
Oh my, this is just absolutely stunning, I love it! And I’m so happy I’ve found your blog 🙂
That is adorable…especially with the flower crown. The color and style are perfect on Clare. She’s a lucky girl to have such a talented mom!
Wow! This is absolutely beautiful! I love the way it’s styled, too. Just stunning!
You’ve made a truly beautiful dress from that tablecloth! The underlay is a perfect colour, emphasising the lace pattern without a jarring contrast, and the little details such as the double layered covered button are exquisite. It adorns your gorgeous daughter perfectly.