This dress was entirely inspired by this Instagram post by Susan Young.

It took only a minute or so after leaving that comment for me to pop over to the MIY Collection website and buy the Wisewood dress pattern.  And here’s my version!

The description from the website is as follows:  Possibly the most flattering and comfortable dress you’ll ever wear! Big claims, but this pattern can deliver. Cowl necks are easy to wear and this pattern includes 2 cowl options – a standard depth cowl that you could probably wear without the need for a vest underneath or a dramatic deeper version that falls into lots of luxurious folds and drapes. 

The pattern includes 2 different ways to finish the deeper cowl: simply left to drape through the whole of the dress front, or with the bottom part stitched out to give a more fitted dress below the waist which emphasises the beautiful drape of the cowl neck (like the short sleeved grey version in the pictures). See more versions on this Pinterest board. 

Both dress and top versions are included in the pattern and the instructions will walk you through inserting sleeves or how to add a beautifully professional finish to the sleeveless version as well as the different ways of finishing the cowl. 

8 sizes are included in the pattern ranging from bust size 80cm to 111cm (31.5″ to 44″) and hip size 88cm to 119cm (34.5″ to 47″). This pattern is sized based on body measurements not dress sizes and includes full details of finished garment measurements for each size to make sure you get the right size first time. 

This pattern is designed for stretch knit fabrics and works in a wide range of knits from single jersey to ponte roma. A fabric with some viscose content will drape the best.

I rather like cowl necklines, and since it’s winter, I wanted a dress with long sleeves.  What really drew me to the dress on Instagram was that the skirt fullness had been drawn in with a small stitched down pleat to one side.  I felt that this would work better for my shape than leaving the dress unstitched, and I definitely didn’t want to stitch it all down through the centre front to make it fitted over my middle.

It’s hard to see in the photo because of the busy nature of the fabric, but if you look carefully at the left side of the photo (the wearer’s right) there is a fold to one side that has been stitched down for a couple of inches. It releases into the bodice above and the skirt below. I worked out where to put it by putting on the otherwise finished dress, then playing with it and pinning it until I had something that I was happy with.

The back neckline is finished with a strip of folded fabric sewn to it right sides together like a facing, then turned to the inside and stitched in place. It sits neatly and securely. The self facing of the cowl is folded backward enclosing the edge of the back neckline when stitching the shoulder seams and you end up with a nicely finished neckline all around.  I also like the fit across my shoulders. Now I’m trying to remember what size I sewed…possibly the size for a 40 inch bust.

This is the version with the deep cowl, and accordingly it is best worn with a camisole underneath.  I like the fullness through the body, yet that small pleat contains it well without the need for making the skirt fitted, which is one of the pattern suggestions.  My taller friend Rachel tried this on when we were last at Sewjourn, and for her shape the dress would look best with the skirt more fitted.  This pattern allows you to easily play with the skirt to end up with what works best for you.

And the fabric? It’s a brushed poly knit from Lincraft, of all places. I find that nowadays Lincraft tends to have fabric that is way overpriced for what it is. But every now and then you come across a gem, like this one. I loved the colours and the print, and it actually feels really luscious. I hadn’t come across “brushed poly” before – but a quick google search tells me that it is a buttery soft fabric perfect for leggings, pants, tops, and dresses. Brushed on both sides, great stretch, drape, and excellent recovery! I think that’s all pretty accurate – and I wouldn’t mind getting my hands on some more of it. The only thing I want to know more about is its breathability for warmer weather garments. I know that modern fibre technologies lead to sometimes surprising results, so I’ll research it further at some stage. In the interim, I am enjoying wearing this winter dress. Many thanks to Susan for the inspiration!