Tessuti Berlin Jacket #2
Tessuti really do offer loads of coat and jacket patterns especially for fabrics such as boiled wool, that doesn’t fray. These often feature overlapped raw edged seams. The first time that I sewed one I found it a little challenging, mostly because I am so used to traditional right-sides-together seams that have the raw edges hidden on the inside of the garment. But now I can sew one of these types of jackets quite quickly!
This is my second go at the Berlin jacket. The first one went to a friend, purely because the colour really wasn’t me. This one will be staying in my wardrobe – after all, it matches my hair!
From the Tessuti website: The Berlin Jacket is a collarless, longline jacket featuring patch pockets, extended dropped shoulders and full-length sleeves with a turned back cuff. The back neck is slightly raised. Effortlessly stylish, the jacket is the ideal winter wardrobe staple and perfect for layering over dresses or any casual outfit. Sizes (AUS): 6-16 & 16-22. Recommended fabrics: boiled wool and boiled felted wool. Not suitable for woven fabrics that fray when cut.
The overall silhouette is very similar to that of the Style Arc Sigrid coat; actually there are many patterns around that could potentially be subbed in for this one. However, the overlapped raw edged seams of the Berlin really do make it a worthwhile pattern to sew – it’s fast, and a little ‘edgy’ (see what I did there). The back neckline sits particularly nicely on me.
I sewed size Medium, which is a size smaller than my measurements, and like the resulting fit. The fabric came to me from a delightful friend. It’s much smoother than what I think of when I hear ‘boiled wool’ but it’s very tightly woven and doesn’t fray when cut. When I look very closely I think it’s actually a knit rather than a weave; it’s hard to tell in that slightly marled colour. The pocket opening, front/collar and cuffs are finished with an unusual facing treatment that results in a double raw edge. Very effective.
Love our Berlin jacket! I was hoping to make a shorter version, but after reading about the double facings on the hem and pockets I wonder if that’s possible? If so, there must not be much “wiggle room”. Thanks for the info on sizing down. It looks like you still have plenty of room to layer!
I don’t think that you’d have any hassles shortening the jacket; just do that to the pattern pieces before you cut out and make sure that you shorten the facings the same amount.
Thank you. That seems simple enough!