This is only my second go at a Grasser pattern. I couldn’t resist the design lines – not that you can see them clearly in the print that I chose to sew it in! Think of this as a wearable muslin.
So, you look at the above photo and see a round neck, long sleeved blouse. But if you look closely, you can see the seaming. Really, the line drawing shows it best.
The pattern is Grasser blouse pattern #382. I am pretty sure that Grasser is a Russian pattern company, based elsewhere. The patterns are ordered in Russian sizes, to your height. The description on the website includes: Straight silhouette blouse. Hip-length. On the front is undercut, to the bottom of the gradually turning on the back. The clasp on the zipper tape in the average seam of the back. Set in sleeve, the sleeve bottom is decorated with a shaped undercut with an assemblage. Fabric suggestion: The soft, well-draped fabrics dress-blouses range, without stretching.
I decided on size 50 as per my measurements, in the height range 158-164cm (I am 158 cm tall). There is a link to a size chart on each pattern page, along with instructions on how to measure yourself. There are also descriptions of the ease included in the design on each pattern page. I am pleased with the amount of ease that I ended up with in this blouse, although the sleeves are much longer on me than on the model.
The English instructions have gone through google translate or similar from Russian, and certainly did lead to some head-scratching moments for me. I ended up mostly using my knowledge of what would be an appropriate order of construction. I didn’t include the zip at the centre back neck, as I was pretty sure that I’d be able to get it on without. The darts at the back neckline certainly do allow for much better fit in that area. I could possibly have narrowed the shoulders.
The fabric is a printed rayon/viscose twill that I was given by a friend, and I’m pretty sure it’s originally from Spotlight. I really like the colours in the print, but I needed a brand new very sharp needle in the sewing machine in order for it not to create little pulls along seamlines. Fortunately for me I spotted the problem when sewing the back neck darts, very early in the process. Fussy fabric! The neck and the sleeve openings are faced, which looks good. I did consider using bias binding as stitched facings as I often do with blouses, but I’m glad that I just followed the instructions in the end and sewed it as designed. I secured the facings with some stitching in the ditch along seamlines.
This pattern gets a definite thumbs up from me. It’s very reasonably priced, there’s an excellent size range, and I always like it when patterns can be purchased for different heights as well. The instructions aren’t great for an English speaker, but that’s fine with me as the pattern was well drafted and marked and everything fitted together. Next time that I sew this I’ll use a stripe and play with directions, or I’ll use different colours or prints for the lower body and sleeve cuffs so that you can really see the shaping.