When it doesn’t work at first…
This is a 2022 project that I think will continue well into 2023. The fabric is just too good for this not to be reworked!
It all started with a sketch. I mashed together a few patterns; the funnel neck and bodice from the Pattern Emporium Be You tee, the bishop sleeve from the Pattern Emporium True Romance top, and the tier lengths from the Style Arc Nova skirt (which I had already adjusted for my height). The stunning printed velour was from The Cloth Shop.
First progress photo on Ada – looking good!
Then with the next two skirt tiers added. I used the width of the fabric to determine how much fabric was in each tier – and in retrospect, this was a mistake. I should have used consistent ratios of gathering in each tier. But I’ll get back to that.
And with the final tier added. So lets try it on!
First thing – it’s SO swishy! It’s lovely to feel all that fabric moving around my legs as I walk and turn.
But – it’s all TOO MUCH. The fabric pile glistens and gleams, the cowl has loads of fabric, the bishop sleeves have loads of fabric, the skirt has masses of fabric! I need to change things up, because I love that fabric. I asked Instagram for suggestions and people had a variety of ideas. Many said to shorten the sleeves, but this is a winter dress and I wanted to keep those sleeves long. So I removed the bulky cowl neckline and added a band instead, leaving it as a scoop neckline (which should work well with plain scarves).
But – that’s as far as I’ve got. It’s still not right. When I look at photos, I think I’ve worked out the issue. This dress has three tiers, but they all have different amounts of gathering. The second tier, at hip level, has the most gathers, so that is horizontal line that you notice the most. It’s at the level of an 80s/90s dropped waist. I’m not keen, plus the sleeves gather into the cuffs at around the same place. It’s not working for me! So at this stage I am considering the following alterations:
- remove the bottom two tiers and recut and regather the second tier so that it’s the same amount of gathering as the top tier
- consider whether to leave it as a shorter two tiered dress and not add the bottom tier at all
- or remove all tiers and use the bottom tier to add fabric to the top tier so that it is as gathered as the second tier.
I am still open to suggestions! I suspect that none of this is going to happen until we’re well into winter. I don’t usually put in the time to rework garments, instead tending to donate them to someone who likes them as they are. But this fabric deserves my effort.
Perhaps moving the top tier up about 2″ will solve the problem and still give you the swish you love. The entire thing seems to be dragging you down, move the top tier up then decide on your gathering ratio. It’s gorgeous material! The cowl removal was a good move, you could always use it as a cowl scarf for a solid top.
This is beautiful fabric and a beautiful idea, but, as you pointed out, just too much for your frame. First, I like the idea of taking off some of the tiers. Perhaps just 2 tiers is right, making the second tier not as big as it is now. Second, I think it needs to be shorter, I would do mid-calf if it were me, but I don’t know for you. Because of how wide it is, I’m afraid to say just below knee, as that might be too short, but maybe it would work. Finally, I would either take some of the bulk out of the sleeves or shorten them to 3/4 length. With respect to warmth, there’s not a whole lot of difference in the warmth of a 3/4 length and a full-length sleeve. Lovely, lovely fabric, and lovely, lovely initial idea!!! (By the way, I think with some of these changes, you could put the cowl neck back on if you want to; I would have changed that last, but, like you, I don’t usually go back and redo things I’ve made either.)
As an aside, it’s interesting to me to hear how much you give away. I’ve started doing that; but I’d really like to learn how to make sure everything comes out right the first time. If you come up with a solution for that, I’d love to have you write about it.
A couple of thoughts for your beautiful fabric Lara and I think you’re right about the second tier being too full. Also do you have any fabric left?
First thought is that perhaps top tier should be longer, I can’t tell for sure but I’m wondering if the bottom tier is the longest? If so could you use bottom tier to re-make top one but longer? Then re attach the middle one but make it less full. If you still want a third one perhaps the remaining pieces could be used?
Another thought is that perhaps the bodice needs to be slightly more fitted or even slightly raised to finish above your waist, not tight but just to give a little shaping and show off the tiers.
The sleeves I think would be better less full and maybe only have an elastic casing?
Hi Lara. It does overwhelm your petite frame both in length and volume of fabric. The second tier hits at the wrong spot, I believe and the extra gathers highlight this. Like you I have done a style and colour course recently and we were told about creating hour glass, inverted triangle or rectangle silhouettes to be most flattering, not a normal triangle which tiered dresses can easily become depending on the fabric. A pity when they can hide so many figure flaws. As this is such a soft drapery fabric I think by reducing volume in the gathers ,length overall and adjusting the tiers so none start at your widest points you can rescue this.
I love reading about your projects–I am a similar size/shape as you, so I love seeing what you sew.
I think this dress is too long–if it could be shortened somehow to mid-calf, I believe it would then retain enough length to give you a linear profile–if you cut off too much, it might appear to have a block effect. I think that the width of the sleeves definitely need to be narrower, and I believe that some length could be removed from the sleeves also so that your sleeves appear to be more sleek, rather than competing with the fullness of the skirt. The sleeves have a blouson effect that would be beautiful with a sheath dress or style with less volume all over. If I were going to make changes, I would begin with the sleeves–then you might have a better idea about what else may need to be tweaked in the skirt. You might even be able to simply shorten the dress without removing a lot or any of the gathering.
Your fabric is gorgeous–perfect for your complexion and hair color. I am anxious to see what you do with this project–I believe it will end up being something you love wearing once the proportions are fixed. I love the fact that you try so many patterns and share this with us all! Thanks so much!
Add a “belt”. Doesn’t have to be a real belt. A faux belt tacked on to dress.
A cumberbund (spelling?)
Make it a matte finish to give the eye a place to rest.
I pretty much never wear belts; they’re absolutely not me.
I agree that it’s all just ‘too much’. I’d either take off the bottom tier and wear it with black tights and ankle boots, or take off both bottom tiers and wear it over black leggings. If it’s still too much, maybe slim down the sleeves a bit.
The fabric’s gorgeous. The sleeves and neck absolutely do it justice, as does the first gather. I think the second one’s the problem, both in terms of volume and in placement. If it were me, I’d be inclined to change the placement of the gathers. If too much, I’d get rid of the last one (which would be the smaller one in terms of depth). You could also reduce the gathers if you felt it was unflattering. As soon as I saw it I thought it would be perfect as a Style Arc Hope dress (which is kind of what you’d get if you switched panels).
I agree. Redoing it to be similar to the style arc hope would be a good choice. That is, sleeves no wider or longer than that and skirt around as long and as wide as that. I also like what someone said about, if you use two tiers, having the top one the longer one and using just a short one at the bottom. But overall the shape of the Hope is I think the way to go. (minus the raglan sleeve)