February 2023 – THORNBERRY

adult's clothing, Pattern Emporium, sewing

When it doesn’t work at first…

This is a 2022 project that I think will continue well into 2023. The fabric is just too good for this not to be reworked!

It all started with a sketch. I mashed together a few patterns; the funnel neck and bodice from the Pattern Emporium Be You tee, the bishop sleeve from the Pattern Emporium True Romance top, and the tier lengths from the Style Arc Nova skirt (which I had already adjusted for my height). The stunning printed velour was from The Cloth Shop.

First progress photo on Ada – looking good!

Then with the next two skirt tiers added. I used the width of the fabric to determine how much fabric was in each tier – and in retrospect, this was a mistake. I should have used consistent ratios of gathering in each tier. But I’ll get back to that.

And with the final tier added. So lets try it on!

First thing – it’s SO swishy! It’s lovely to feel all that fabric moving around my legs as I walk and turn.

But – it’s all TOO MUCH. The fabric pile glistens and gleams, the cowl has loads of fabric, the bishop sleeves have loads of fabric, the skirt has masses of fabric! I need to change things up, because I love that fabric. I asked Instagram for suggestions and people had a variety of ideas. Many said to shorten the sleeves, but this is a winter dress and I wanted to keep those sleeves long. So I removed the bulky cowl neckline and added a band instead, leaving it as a scoop neckline (which should work well with plain scarves).

But – that’s as far as I’ve got. It’s still not right. When I look at photos, I think I’ve worked out the issue. This dress has three tiers, but they all have different amounts of gathering. The second tier, at hip level, has the most gathers, so that is horizontal line that you notice the most. It’s at the level of an 80s/90s dropped waist. I’m not keen, plus the sleeves gather into the cuffs at around the same place. It’s not working for me! So at this stage I am considering the following alterations:

remove the bottom two tiers and recut and regather the second tier so that it’s the same amount of gathering as the top tier
consider whether to leave it as a shorter two tiered dress and not add the bottom tier at all
or remove all tiers and use the bottom tier to add fabric to the top tier so that it is as gathered as the second tier.

I am still open to suggestions! I suspect that none of this is going to happen until we’re well into winter. I don’t usually put in the time to rework garments, instead tending to donate them to someone who likes them as they are. But this fabric deserves my effort.

Tuesday, 28 February, 2023Sunday, 26 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Rejected

My fabric stash is extensive. There are scraps from other projects, remnants bought because they were a bargain, metreage waiting it’s turn, fabric from other people’s stashes that has made it’s way to mine. Every now and then I sew up scraps or remnants from patterns I’ve used and liked before, happy to donate the resulting garment if it’s not one that I decide I want to keep and wear. These three knit tops are all in the donation box; none of them are ‘me’ (for a variety of reasons).

This one is almost me (and now that I look at it again, the more I consider pulling it out of the donation box). It’s another Aeolian tee, in a stable knit remnant. I like the grey and the jacquard pattern, and the fabric is warm and spongy – but very polyester. I used rib for the neckband; a band from self-fabric wasn’t going to work.

This one is the Style Arc Rae tunic, with the shoulder seams closed. I wore this to work once, then ditched it. It’s got a nice curved hemline, and I’ll sew the pattern again as the shape is quite good on me. The print is just too intricate in it’s detailing.

Then lastly we have the Style Arc Abigail. This is a pattern that always produces good results for me, but I’ve never worn this top. It only got as far as a try on (and yes, it fits).

The sleeves are at an awkward length, but that could be easily rectified. It’s really the print. I like the style of the print, but the colours just aren’t quite right for me! They’re on the right track, but they’re overwhelming. I recently had a styling session and my colours refreshed with Suzanne Dekyvere; my colours nowadays are more ‘warm and deep’ than the ‘warm spring’ that I oce was. Maybe that’s why this didn’t feel right to me!

Monday, 27 February, 2023Sunday, 26 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Still catching up – another Aeolian

There are a few things that I sewed last year that still need to be blogged! First up, the only one that is still in my wardrobe.

I have used this fabric for a couple of garments in the past but never got the match of sewing pattern and fabric print right (neither of those garments stayed in the wardrobe for long). I think that this combination is the right one. The Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee is an excellent canvas for this deadstock cotton/spandex print (bought from the now defunct Clear It in Smith St).

You’ve seen the Aeolian on my blog many, many times now, and I have no doubt that you’ll see it again! As per the description on the website, The Aeolian is the perfect boxy cotton tee, as tall as it is wide.
It has a square shaped sleeve, strategically inserted to the armhole for maximum 3D body. Sized down, it makes a perfect sheath. Neat, but not tight. Excellent in a glamour knit for a super clean, mini, cocktail dress. Sized up it responds with mega drapes and kaftan-esque volume.

A print of this scale and style requires some thought before cutting out. I considered where the dominant dark sections would fall, as well as which part of the print would run along the hemline. The final placement worked well. I topstitched along the raglan seamlines and used topstitching to secure the neckband.

The Aeolian tee is definitely one of my tried and true patterns. The wide hem and cuffs really elevate things. It’s an excellent palate cleanser pattern for when I just need to sew, but don’t want anything too complex. Maybe I need to make another one soon!

Sunday, 26 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Venice dress

This dress was a late wardrobe addition for our USA trip. I wanted something that was casual and warm yet a bit dressier than jeans to wear to Christmas dinner (it ended up that there were 30 of us enjoying Chinese banquet in Denver). I had admired Anna’s version for a long time and decided that an animal print version would work for me.

The fabric is a wool blend knit, bought online from Drapers Fabrics. I had originally been thinking a lightweight ponte, but this is more a jersey. I sewed size 12.

The pattern is the Style Arc Venice Knit Dress. As per the website: Refresh your wardrobe with this sophisticated dress of the moment. The asymmetrical lines create a soft cocoon shape and the optional slit pockets are a great design feature which sets this mid length, long sleeved dress apart. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Knit, jersey, knit cashmere or any knit fabric with drape.

I chose not to include the slit pockets; I figured that as the fabric was fairly lightweight the skirt would get distorted if I put anything in them. I also shortened the dress an inch (maybe two?) by taking a horizontal fold through both of the skirt pieces then re-drawing the side seamlines accordingly. Once the dress was made the sleeves were way too long – I had done a one inch hem, so just turned it over another inch and rehemmed them.

As it happens, this dress was washed and tumble dried while we were away and the sleeves seem much shorter now! I am going to unpick the second lot of stitching to lengthen them a little bit. The skirt length is still okay.

Construction was all on my overlocker, and it was a very fast sew. I turned the leftovers into a moebius style scarf/loop/cowl thing to add a little warmth.

I plan on sewing this dress again at some stage, possibly in a solid. It’s a good shape for me and would be a good canvas for fun winter scarves, coats, stockings and boots.

Saturday, 18 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, Friday Pattern Company, teen

Friday Pattern Company Saguaro Set

I am still catching up on 2022 makes – there are a few more to go. I sewed up the Saguaro Set, by Friday Pattern Company, back in winter/spring, so the weather was still cold and Clare didn’t get the opportunity to wear it. Fiji provided us with a perfect location to get some blog photos!

This is the sort of outfit that I love the look of, but wouldn’t wear myself (I feel too self-conscious in anything that exposes my waist/belly). I really enjoy getting to sew these styles for my daughters, who are keen for waist definition and don’t mind exposing some belly!

From the website: The Saguaro Set is a two piece woven set made up of elastic waistband pants and a pullover top. This is the perfect outfit for road trips through the desert, sunset walks on the beach, or dancing the night away. The pants feature roomy pockets and a waistband with a drawstring. The top has a plunging V neckline that includes an optional tie closure. You can wear the top backwards or forwards. This flowy set is easy to sew and fun to wear with endless options for customization.

The fabric is cotton madras woven check from Super Cheap Fabrics (no longer available on their website). The colour combination was right up Clare’s alley, and the light weight makes for a very cool summer outfit.

I didn’t have enough fabric to cut the whole outfit out in a ‘with nap’ layout, so the checks don’t match up in the pants. I did a pretty good job across the front seams, but the pants back stripes are in the reverse of the front so don’t match along the side seams. The pants hems are still green checks, so it doesn’t jump out at you. Still better than lots of what I see in the shops! You really do need to take some time and care when cutting out checked garments so ensure that things are centred and colours flow nicely.

The pants drawstring is functional, not just a decorative tie, although the pants have an elastic waist. There are also pockets set into the side seams.

I did a narrow shoulder and small bust alteration on the top, as per this YouTube tutorial by Paige Joanna. There is a wealth of sewing information and tutorials on YouTube, but usually I don’t have the patience to sit through a full tutorial to find the information I want! I much prefer to go to written material. That said, this was a very helpful tutorial that saved me from having to think. I am trying to remember to check if there are tutorials out there for patterns that I want to sew when they are ones I think could be tricky or require alterations. As it turns out, Friday Pattern Company have sew-along tutorials on YouTube for a few of their patterns!

The topstitching on the wide waist elastic on both the top and the pants gives a really nice finish, and the optional tie on the top – which we included – provides a little cleavage coverage. Clare has worn the pieces together and separately with other wardrobe items. Definitely a successful sew!

Saturday, 11 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, family, sewing

Vogue 1798

I didn’t just dress Clare and Stella for the wedding – I dressed myself as well! I decided on Vogue 1798 after seeing Sharon’s stunning jacquard version. The pattern is from Rachel Comey’s 2020 collection.

The brocade came from The Cloth Shop (I noticed the other day that there is still some available) as did the bemsilk lining. I don’t normally go for such an intricately detailed ‘print’ but when the ‘print’ is woven in to the fabric it appeals much more! I really liked the colours that were included, with the deep green, browns, cream, some silver and touches of mint. And yes, you have seen the fabric before – it’s what I used for Stella’s bustier top! Matchy matchy!

So, to the details. As per the pattern description: Misses’ very loose-fitting, lined midi length shift dress has V-neckline, puffy sleeves with elastic hem, back tie closure, side seam pockets, front slit & metallic trim at the hem. It’s one of the relatively few Vogue patterns that has the ‘figure flattery’ symbol of suiting a rectangular shape.

I have a few photos taken in natural light before we headed off on holiday. The weight of the fabric, plus the fact that it is fully lined, made it slightly weather appropriate. The recommended fabrics are actually taffeta, poplin or silk twill – brocade is definitely none of those, and this fabric is definitely medium weight rather than light. Nevertheless, it seemed to work out. And the fabric really made those voluminous sleeves even more voluminous!

The dress wasn’t actually all that difficult to make. There’s not all that many pieces, but the sleeve piece is massive. You also need to pay attention to the markings on the sleeve piece in order to fold the large pleats at the shoulder cap correctly. Don’t skip the markings! There is elastic inside the sleeve hem the keeps the puff gathered. The sleeve lining is shorter than the sleeve piece, so acts as a stay to keep it folded to the inside.

The back has some gentle gathering into a waist seam, which gives a little more sitting room. The V neckline at both front and back along with the straight lines of the body mean that the dress doesn’t need closures; it just slips over the head. The back neckline ties are definitely needed though. The weight of those sleeves would pull them straight off your shoulders otherwise! I wore a regular bra under the dress, which would have showed if the back neckline was any deeper.

I made little rosebud type things to finish the tie ends by following a tutorial I found on the Dica de Costura Instagram account. Making them in this fabric was a definite struggle, but I got there.

My dress actually packed really well and didn’t need ironing despite being squished into a bag along with everyone else’s wedding outfits! I reckon that we all looked pretty great.

As expected at a wedding, the people that looked the best were the bride and groom! I thought that some of you would like to see the bride’s stunning dress. Just perfect for her, with exquisite lace detailing.

Michael and Jessica met in Melbourne when she moved from America to study medicine – about twelve years ago! This wedding has been a long time coming. It was a truly joyous occasion, and we are so thrilled that we were able to be there to celebrate with them and all our new American extended family!

Wednesday, 8 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, Vikisews

VikiSews Leoncia dress

Clare chose the VikiSews Leoncia dress to wear to the wedding. We began the planning process a few months prior, although the dress didn’t actually get finished until the week before we left!

This is the line drawing for the dress. It’s all cut on the bias. Clare and I had done some formal dress try-on sessions at the local shops some months earlier where we’d determined that bias cut worked nicely on her, but it really needed me to sew it to grade up through the hips. In the end I cut size 2 (Australian size 6) for the bodice, and graded it up to size 4 (Australian size 8) through the hips, which was very straightforward. I bought the 162-168cm height range of the pattern.

The fabric is crepe backed polyester satin, bought on considerable discount at Lincraft (of all places!) with mint green bemsilk lining. The blue fabric in the photo is the poly satin I used for her Marla dress.

The dress was actually fairly straighforward to make, especially because there are no closures, as it slips on due to the flexibility of the bias. The spaghetti straps that hold the entire dress up have sliders to make them adjustable. If I sewed this again I would move them in a little – the straps ended up being a bit wide-set on Clare’s narrower shoulders.

Before I attached the sleeves I had Clare try on the dress. It actually looked really cute on her without them! It wouldn’t be at all difficult to adjust the pattern to make it sleeveless. Nevertheless, we continued on with adding the sleeves.

I had complicated things slightly by deciding to fully line the dress. The upper front is fully lined, but the back neckline is finished with a facing. I cut the skirt pattern pieces out in lining fabric and attached the back pieces to the back facing, and the front skirt piece to the upper front self-fabric lining, and then continued on with construction pretty much as per the instructions. It all worked out okay!

When Clare tried it on, she found that her arm movement was a bit restricted. I let out the bicep area of the sleeves, which improved matters considerably. Then we discovered that she really needed to wear the dress hiked right up to her armpits, with the straps set fairly short in order to provide a really good danceable range of movement. Double-sided tape helped to keep the bodice in the right spot! She accidentally found out if she tucked the sleeves inside the dress she could wear it sleeveless and you couldn’t even tell there were sleeves inside – an unexpected versatility bonus.

When I started sewing the dress I sewed over a pin and completely threw off the timing of my machine and jammed it. Yikes! I sent the Pinnock off for repairs, and switched to sewing on the girls’ machine, a little Bernette. Once I got the hang of things it sewed quite nicely. I used the overlocker to finish seam allowances. I used an old Big4 pattern to sew up a matching pouch for Clare to carry her phone etc in. It wasn’t my best work, but it was fine on the day!

Anyway, Clare looked fabulous! The dress turned out beautifully, was comfortable to wear (other than having to apply double-sided tape to the top edges of the bodice) and she received many compliments. It turned out that it was highly danceable too!

Tuesday, 7 February, 2023Monday, 6 February, 2023 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, teen, Vikisews

VikiSews Tally bustier top – modelled photos!

Wow, what a wonderful holiday we had! I know that some of you followed our South-West USA and Fiji trip via Facebook or Instagram and were spammed with my daily updates. It really was the trip of a lifetime. And the wedding – the whole impetus for the trip – was superb! I’ll share more photos later, but first off am adding to my last blog post about Stella’s VikiSews Tally bustier top with some modelled photos.

The wedding was in Winter Park, Colorado. A snow storm raged outside while we enjoyed a beautiful ceremony and fabulous reception inside. Just superb!

Monday, 6 February, 2023Monday, 6 February, 2023 by thornberry

Month: February 2023