April 2022 – THORNBERRY

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

McCalls M8181 top for Clare

After sewing Clare’s bias skirt (see previous post) there was more than enough fabric left to sew her a top.

We chose McCalls M8181. At the time it hadn’t made it to Australia (it takes a couple of months post release in the USA for patterns to get to us for some weird reason) so I bought the pdf download online. I rarely do that with McCalls patterns; they’re not all that user friendly to assemble in comparison to pdf patterns from small independents. Anyway, this is the pattern:

From the pattern page: Misses’ buttoned prairie puff-sleeve peasant top. Hems include cropped, ruffled & pointed. 3/4 sleeves & long sleeves. Top is lined with princess seams & sweetheart neckline. FABRICS: Cotton Blends, Poplin, Broadcloth, Sateen. Lining: Lining Fabrics, Lawn.

We chose view A for Clare. After one look at the pattern pieces, I knew that I would need to muslin the bodice. Out came the stash of old cotton bedsheets that I use for this purpose! I cut size 6 to best suit Clare’s shoulders and upper bust, and graded to size 8 at the waist. But believe me, once I had the bodice muslin on her I made a lot of changes. I removed torso length, mostly from the bodice back, and generally did loads of marking and pinning to improve the overall fit. Let me acknowledge right here and now that it’s definitely not ‘perfect’ across the shoulders – you can see the neckline standing up and away from her body there. I also narrowed the shoulders, and removed some bodice depth above the bust. That meant that I had to lower the armhole a little. Let me acknowledge right here and now that it’s definitely not ‘perfect’ across the shoulders – you can see the neckline standing up and away from her body there. I have learned over the years that a fitted bodice definitely reqires a muslin for Clare. I’m no expert at fitting; it is something that takes practice and is probably the most difficult thing about sewing your own clothes.

I didn’t muslin the sleeves but they eased into the bodice without issue. You can see the texture of the fabric a little more in these photos.

This was actually pretty easy to make, in terms of construction. The bodice is fully lined using the same patterns for both outer and lining, and it’s princess seams. You just need to be careful when attaching the lining to the main fabric so that you get the neckline right. I used pink cotton from stash for the lining.

Construction was mostly with the sewing machine. I just used the overlocker to neaten edges where necessary.

The shank buttons are vintage, and were just the right shade of cream to match the fabric. I haven’t actually seen Clare wear this out yet, but it was made in January and the weather has only just cooled enough for a blouse in this weight of fabric. But guess what – there is still some fabric left! I wonder what it might become.

Saturday, 30 April, 2022Sunday, 1 May, 2022 by thornberry

adult's clothing, crochet, sewing, teen, tessuti patterns

Tessuti Evie bias skirt

This is actually a garment sewn in 2021 that didn’t get photographed or blogged at the time! It was a lockdown make, so that probably explains why – Clare wasn’t getting dressed up to go to anything!

The skirt is the Tessuti Evie bias skirt. From their website: The Evie Bias Skirt floaty and flared midi-length bias skirt pattern which includes two versions. View A is finished with a bound waistline and side zipper opening and View B is a pull-on version with scalloped elasticised waist. Instructions are provided to achieve a narrow or fringed hem (linen only). This bias skirt is drafted to flatter the body and looks fabulous worn casually or dressed up. Sizes (AUS): 6-18. Recommended fabrics: woven fabrics such as medium to heavy weight silk satin, satin-backed crepe, viscose, rayon, tencel, wool and linen.

We chose the easy pull-on version, view B. I have a feeling though that I didn’t used scalloped elastic for the waist, but wider elastic that was cut to fit Clare’s waist, then sewn on to the inside, turned, and topstiched with a zig-zag. I really should have gone up the stairs to Clare’s room and pulled out the skirt to check – but she’s asleep right now and who wants to disturb a sleeping adulteen!

As you’d expect, this is a super easy and fast garment to sew. Sew back to front at side seams, add elastic to the waist, hem the skirt. That said, it’s all on the bias so does require some careful handling and plenty of pins! The bias cut makes it hang and move beautifully. I suspect that I sewed the smallest size for Clare. She’s around an Australian size 8 for bottoms, and in my experience Tessuti patterns tend to have plenty of ease.

Now to the fabric. It’s been in my stash for what feels like forever, but my memory tells me that it was from Spotlight, and I bought a large amount from the clearance table. As well as being a very pretty print, it has wonderful texture in the weave. It’s more medium weight than light.

Clare crocheted the lace cardigan that she is wearing with the skirt. You can check out the details of her crochet creations on Instagram @dacapitalcrochet. I am constantly amazed at how prolific and beautiful her crochet work is, especially when you consider that she only learned to crochet at the beginning of 2021. She takes every opportunity to get the hook out – and has recently turned to the dark side and is learning how to use the two pointy sticks.

Friday, 29 April, 2022Thursday, 28 April, 2022 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Melba dress

I like to sew Mum a dress or two each year, often in time for Christmas or for her birthday. This time around I sewed her the Style Arc Melba dress.

Isn’t that fabric spectacular! It’s linen, from The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe. It’s not in stock at the moment but they often have equally beautiful linen prints. I don’t live far from the shop so have the pleasure of patting and the admiring the fabrics in person on a semi-regular basis. This one is just so, so pretty.

Style Arc describe this dress as follows: Pull on dress. Mid length. Boat neck. Slight cocoon shaped body. In seam pockets. Extended shoulder line. Short sleeve. Suitable for knit ponte or woven fabric. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Ponte, rugby knit, crepe, light wool.

Now I’m trying to remember some of the sewing details. I’m pretty sure that I sewed size 16 for Mum, but wondered whether I could have sized down a little. I have a feeling that I shortened the pattern length a little. Mum likes her dresses on the longer side, but she’s only around my height now and the pattern looked as though it would be full length if I didn’t shorten it an inch or two. I did remember to do a forward shoulder / high rounded upper back alteration, utilising the back yoke seams to do so. I rather like the pleats in the back.

The neckline, yoke and sleeves are finished with an all in one facing. I used some contrast green fabric from stash for that, and made sure to understitch to reduce the chance of it rolling to the outside. The sleeves are cut all in one with the body.

I used a light brown linen for the pocket bags – I didn’t want them to show through.

It’s really hot during summer in the country town that Mum lives in, so linen is just perfect for the climate. And in a print like this one, it feels a little bit special!

We’re moving into winter weather now, but I probably should ask Mum what she’d like me to sew for her next!

Thursday, 28 April, 2022 by thornberry

sewing, teen, tween

Another pair of Kwik Sew 3605

I think that Kwik Sew 3605 is the best pattern out there for girls/teens bathers – I first used it over ten years ago. If you didn’t know already, Kwik Sew have now gone out of print (sob) so it looks like this pattern will now only be found on the second hand market. I bought extra copies a few years ago to use as my daughters grew. This is probably the last time I’ll be able to sew it for either of my two daughters; this pair is at the top of the size range.

Another fit photo from January! The fabric was in my stash, and Stella didn’t get a great deal of say in what I used. My swimsuit fabric stash contains prints and only one or two solids. I sewed the XL for Stella, which is a girl’s size 12-14. She’s around a women’s size 6, and it seems to fit.

The clip closure at centre back allowed me to fine-tune the fit around Stella’s rib cage before sewing it in place. The bottoms are fully lined, as are the cups of the top.

This is actually a relatively straightforward pattern to sew, although I might be saying that because I’ve had so much experience with it. The bottoms legs and waist are elasticated, as is the band for the top. This is the first time that I’ve made the view B bikini top; in the past I sewed the longer view A tankini top. My girls have always wanted the view C bottoms, not the higher cut view D.

You can find the previous versions I’ve sewn here and here and here. We are fortunate that Clare and Stella’s eldest cousin has a daughter who is ten years younger than Clare and is the happy recipient of everything that my two grow out of. Most of these bathers are getting a second outing (bathers often wear out but some of these past pairs were still in good nick). The handover of clothes is slowing down a bit now that my two don’t really grow out of things, but I’ve loved being able to pass my home sewn things on and either see them worn again or know that they’ve been further redistributed.

Wednesday, 27 April, 2022Tuesday, 26 April, 2022 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Pixie dress

I am a latecomer to sewing up the Style Arc Pixie dress. I’ve seen some really lovely versions on the interwebs.

The print is a remnant I think from Tessuti. It’s a bit smudged in places, so I thought it would be worth using it in a muslin. The fabric is a bit springy and spongy, like a crepe. Maybe it was a crepe; I don’t remember now and sewed this some months ago. I didn’t have enough fabric for the bottom flouce, so used a black jacquard that was in stash.

I sewed size 12; fortunately for me this design has plenty of ease through the mid-section. I took some short-cuts when constructing it that I now regret. I didn’t stabilise the V neckline before sewing the facing, and really wish that I had as it has stretched out while sewing (well duh, that’s why the instructions said to stabilise). It’s not too bad, but I could have done so much better. Impatience never pays off.

I used a narrow overlock stitch to finish off the edges of the flounces. I find that this gives a good finish while allow the bias of the flounce to hang properly, but in retrospect it would have been better with the proper rolled hem stitch. You can tell that I really was approaching this as a muslin!

From the pattern page: Slight “A” line shape, Easy fit shape, Bust darts, Short sleeve with flounce, Hem flounce, Loop & button back opening, “V” neck, Knee length. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Rayon, crepe, silk.

I didn’t include the loop and button centre back opening, and actually cut the back on the fold. I have a small head and it’s rare for me to need a back opening to get a top or dress over it. I possibly did a 1cm forward shoulder alteration, but can’t actually remember. The dress is at pattern length, so if you are taller than my 158cm you may wish to take that into account.

I was pleasantly surprised with how this muslin turned out, and think that it’s actually wearable! That said, as much as I like it on me in these photos, the print feels to high contrast for my liking. It’s still in my wardrobe so we’ll see if it gets an outing or gets passed on sooner rather than later. The pattern will definitely get another outing or two – I really like it! Maybe I should consider this in a fancy fabric for the family wedding we’re going to in Colorado (USA) in December! Decisions, decisions.

Tuesday, 26 April, 2022Monday, 25 April, 2022 by thornberry

adult's clothing, sewing, teen

Made for Mermaids Eloise dress for Stella

This dress was sewn for Stella back at the beginning of January. I made it purely for my own satisfaction to use up a long-term stash resident, but still hoping that she might wear it. So far, she hasn’t.

I planned to take nicely styled photos of it on her when she did eventually wear it, but it looks as though I will have to go with these fit photos for the sake of getting it documented on the blog! It’s strange seeing her without her glasses on now, I’m so used to them (and without her eyeliner).

The pattern is the Eloise dress by Made for Mermaids. I’ve used this pattern before, for a long-sleeved top for Clare. The fabric is a cotton/spandex.

This is a super easy pattern to sew up, and I love the results. I sewed the smallest size for Stella. From the pattern page: Eloise is a fitted knit peasant-style pattern full of options. It includes a hemmed cropped or top. Plus a half circle peplum, mini, and dress length. The front neckline includes a high, mid, or low scoop. The back neckline is straight. The cropped and the top length neckline is finished with binding. The peplum, mini, and dress bodices are lined. Perfect for year-round wear with several elastic top sleeve options: flutter, ruffled elastic short sleeve, elastic hemmed 3/4, and elastic hemmed long sleeves. All options have a solid or faux button front option. If my memory serves me correctly this is the mid scoop neckline. You can see that I chose the ruffled elastic short sleeve. The skirt length is probably the mini.

The self-lined bodice is a nice touch – finishes the neckline nicely and makes it a smoother finish against the body during wear. Most of the construction was on the overlocker, with the machine used where needed. It’s a fast and satisfying sew – a real palate cleanser between more complex projects!

Clare has put in an order for the same dress in a different print. Plenty of time to get that made before the weather warms up again!

Monday, 25 April, 2022 by thornberry

Month: April 2022