I don’t have many ‘traditional’ woven collared shirts in my wardrobe.  I often think of those magazine articles about wardrobe ‘must-haves’ that always seem to include classic shirts.  Every now and then I think that I need some of them, make some, then pass them on.  My most recent collared shirt is definitely not being passed on – it’s scored a firm place in my wardrobe!

This is the Ready To Sew Jane shirt. It’s a French pattern company that I haven’t used before. Enough of these shirts had popped up on Instagram to pique my interest, and I gave it a go.

From the website: Jane is a wrap top with a boyish flare. With a boxy fit, slightly dropped sleeve and a round neckline, Jane has the perfect mix of masculine and feminine styles. The bust is made up of only one piece of fabric without side seams. The unique pattern and beautiful draping paired with the need to only undo four buttons make Jane the perfect top for breastfeeding! Its versatility means that it can be worn tucked into high-waisted jeans or left out for a more relaxed look. Jane can be made with ¾ length puffy sleeves, straight long sleeves with a boxed pleat at the wrist or short sleeves. This pattern requires a reversible fabric, so choose one that has a similar face and reverse side. Or if you are feeling inspired, you could try something new like a crepe fabric with a shiny and matte side.

As you can see, I chose to sew the version with straight long sleeves with the boxed pleat at the wrist. The fabric is cupro, with a woven check, bought from Darn Cheap Fabrics a while ago. This pattern needs a fabric that looks pretty much the same on both sides, or where the reverse side is a feature in some way.

I found it hard to decide on what size to sew, because the main pattern piece is quite an unusual shape. I chose to sew size 42, which is really a size down from my measurements, and the shirt is a little snug across the back and through the bicep. It’s still completely wearable, but I will size up the next time that I sew this pattern.

It wasn’t possible to match up the checks along the centre back seam because of the angle of that seam on the pattern piece. This shirt has surprisingly few pattern pieces – the front and back body is all cut in one. I find that the shirt looks best on me unbuttoned, or with only the lower button done up. If I had sized up a bit that may have been better.

I really like this style on me, especially as it gives the overall vibe of a front tuck without having to actually do one! I much prefer these proportions. The instructions were good, and there’s even a sewalong with plenty of step by step photographs if you like some extra assistance.

The jeans that I’m wearing with my Jane shirt are Stokx Square Pants, previously blogged here. I thought it might be worth sharing a few more photos.

Although I sew most of my clothes, I follow a few fashion labels on the socials. One of them is Motto, and over winter they had some great stretch pleather pants. I figured that stretch pleather pants could fit nicely into my lifestyle; all I needed was to find some fabric to sew them in!

I found this plum stretch pleather at Super Cheap Fabrics, and bought enough for the pants and a jacket. I don’t think that this fabric is still available. I used my trusty Style Arc Misty jeans for the pants, and the Style Arc Harper pattern for the jacket.

Shall I start with the pants? I’ve probably said all of this before…I eliminated all the front detailing – the faux pockets and the fake fly. Rather than the exposed elastic waistband in the pattern I fully enclosed wide elastic in the same fabric, and overlocked that on.

I did keep the Misty back detailing, with the yoke and pockets. I didn’t bother about any fancy stitching on the pockets though; the stretch pleather really wasn’t amenable to that!

I sewed my usual Misty size; I think it’s a 12 but could be a 10; the pattern has been used so much over the years that it’s hard to remember. It’s very creased and has all my shortening alterations built in.
The overlocker coped okay with the fabric, but the machine needed a very new sharp needle and the teflon presser foot. Most of the construction was on the overlocker; the machine was just for topstitching and hemming.

The Harper jacket pattern is designed with raw edges. When I’ve sewn this in the past I’ve added an allowance to the hems and turned and stitched them, but this time I left everything raw as designed. So this ended up being super fast to cut out and sew – just a back, two fronts, and the sleeves! There is a little bit of machine sewing to secure the back collar, but otherwise it’s all constructed on the overlocker. I sewed size 12.

Obviously, this is a relaxed and casual piece, without any tailoring or much fitting. I rather like the overall ensemble that I have ended up with! The sleeveless pleated top I am wearing underneath was a $10 sale item at Sussan a year or two ago that I hadn’t really worn and was about to send to the op shop, but it’s staying in the wardrobe now to be worn in this combination. Boots are from Django and Juliette via my fave eBay sample size seller.  I will be reachhing for this outfit when I need to feel a bit dressy, but relaxed – for the theatre, a restaurant with my friends, or similar.

Kwik Sew 3595 is a pattern that I’ll probably be sewing indefinitely. I first sewed it back in 2012 – and those pyjamas were worn until they literally came apart. I replaced them with another pair in 2016 – and like the first pair, these pyjamas were worn until they came apart. I patched them so many times, but there’s only so much that voile can take! This time around I have sewn them in silk. I wonder if they will also last for years?

This silk came from Eliza’s, shortly before they closed their doors forever (sob). I still have some of their silk in stash with plans to sew a robe and more pyjamas.

Sadly, this pattern is well and truly out of print. Nab a copy if you see it on eBay/Etsy or similar! In view A these are perfect summer pyjamas for me. Cropped legs in a loose, elastic waisted pant. Sleeveless, but not strappy, so no getting twisted up as I sleep. I rotate rather than roll in my sleep, and this style works nicely!

I sewed size Medium since that’s what the pattern was cut out at. If I had been starting from scratch I would possibly go up a size, given that my measurements have gone up quite a bit in the ten years since I first used this pattern, but it still seems to fit comfortably. Thank goodness for ease! There’s also an easy sew, with a self-lined yoke on the top.

Yes, I’ll sew these again.

I mentioned the Style Arc Misty jeans in a recent blog post as one of my favourite pull-on jeans patterns, then realised that I haven’t properly blogged this recent pair. As always, top tucked in only to show you the details of the jeans; I don’t wear them styled this way.

You can see that there is no front detailing at all in this pair; I removed the fake pockets and the fake fly. Not only does it make for a much faster sew, it removed bulk.

I keep the detailing at the back as the yoke improves the fit and the pockets do peek out under many clothes. I often do fancy topstitching on the back pockets but it seems that I was too lazy this time around!  My pattern is well-used now and has some leg length removed and the waistline graded out.

I cut a wide rectangular waistband for these jeans. The width depends on what elastic I have handy to enclose inside it; this time it was quite wide and it’s resulted in a very comfortable waistband. The fabric is what was described as a textured bengaline from Super Cheap Fabrics; it is almost a denim weight and has loads of stretch. It’s definitely much more black in colour than it looked on the website, although the colour was described as ‘charcoal’ so I shouldn’t have been surprised! I generally buy 1.5m for these types of pants.

And a refresher on what the actual line drawing for these pull-on jeans is actually like:

Fabric weight and stretch makes such a difference when using stretch wovens (and knits).  This pair is actually roomy enough for thermals to fit underneath so although they’re close-fitting they’re not as close as leggings.  I’ve worn them frequently this winter and you may have already spotted them as the ‘bottom’ in a few of my earlier blog posts.

Ah, Melbourne Frocktails!  It’s been ages since I last attended Frocktails, as it has often clashed with my Sewjourn weekends, and it didn’t happen at all over the past couple of years.  So it was lovely to meet up with sewing people again!  Shelley and Lisa did a superb job of organising it; the food was delicious and plentiful, and the lighting stayed turned up so that we could clearly admire and appreciate one another’s outfits! Here’s some of the #sewover50 crowd:

So, what did I wear? I needed something that would be straightforward to sew, and comfortable to wear (gee I really do use the word comfortable a lot when talking about sewing clothing – you can really tell that it’s important to me). For a while I’d be thinking of sewing Vogue 8825 again, and when picking up the denim for my Square Pants from Super Cheap Fabrics my eyes alighted on some navy knit that had lurex running through it.

Metallic fibres in fabrics have a tendency to be scratchy, but this one was a medium weight fabric and knitted in such a way that the metallic didn’t scratch at all. There was also plenty of spandex content, which helped with recovery.

I first sewed this in 2013, and judging from the 63 Pattern Reviews of Vogue 8825 it was released in 2012! It’s still available today, so has clearly been a popular pattern. From the Vogue website: Pullover tunic or dress has front extending into back collar, fitted, pleated, surplice bodice front, raised empire waist, tie ends, two-piece blouson sleeves with barrel cuffs, and stitched hem. Fitted, straight-leg pants (below waist) have elastic waist.

I had originally made this pattern in size 14, with petite adjustments. I was considerably slimmer then but was pretty certain that the same size would work for the bodice as long as I altered the skirt portion. In the end I cut the skirt with an additional inch along either side seam, even more along the waistline.

I needed to pin the centre front to avoid major bra exposure when I moved. It was absolutely fine when I just stood straight, but unsurprisingly it gaped when I tried to do anything other than stand still and straight! If I sewed this again I would possibly cut a larger size along the front to allow for more overlap. Or I could just wear a camisole underneath.

I eased the skirt onto the bodice and added a couple of judiciously placed pleats to transition between the size 14 bodice and much larger skirt. Because I was working with a knit, and there is a long wide waist sash, this worked just fine! I was very happy with the fit through the body.

There was a houseful of adulteens when I was finishing the dress, so I consulted them on the best length. The decision was made for above the knee because it ‘slayed’. I also popped in some small raglan shoulder pads that had been in the cupboard since the 1980s. They really gave this dress a lift and balanced out the proportions of my body nicely. I narrowed the sleeve cuffs considerably to make them tighter around my wrist and have noted that pretty much everyone who has sewn this dress has needed to do the same.

Those are end-of-night photos above, which is why they are inside and I’m looking a bit bleary – Clare kindly picked me up from the bus stop at midnight! One of the upsides of having an adulteen who stays up late and has her license. You can find details of the coat made for 2015 Frocktails in this blog post. I still love it and find every opportunity to wear it.

Of course the highlight of Frocktails was meeting up with sewing friends both old and new, some I hadn’t met ‘in real life’ before! There was a great deal of chat; it was delightful.  I am constantly astounded by the talent that is found within the sewing community and love that it spans the age spectrum.

Although I generally prefer smallish gatherings that allow for more in-depth conversation, the venue really did allow for comfy spots to sit and really get in to conversation. It was an excellent evening.

I’ve tried a few knit pant patterns over the years, but this is my current favourite.  They’re the Style Arc Palermo knit pants.

Okay, you can hardly see the details because they’re black. They’re sewn from merino french terry (courtesy of a generous friend) and they’re incredibly warm and comfortable. This is a wonder fabric! The Fabric Store always have a good collection of merino knits if you’re looking for some, although I try to keep an eye out pretty much everywhere.  I’ll try a closer photo.

It might just be easier to share the pattern description and line drawing! From the Style Arc website:

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
On trend knit pant
Drop crotch
Saddle seam
Elastic waist
In seam pockets
Easy lounge wear fit
Slim leg opening
FABRIC SUGGESTION
Knit jersey or any knit fabric with drape.

I sewed size 12, and shortened the legs of the pattern pieces before cutting out. Rather than using wide elastic in the waist I did three channels for narrower elastic, and I didn’t worry about including a drawstring or tie. I pinned the elastic to length and wore them a few times for finally sewing it to the most comfortable length. I did include the deep inseam pockets.  Construction was shared between the overlocker and sewing machine.

The drop crotch isn’t all that extreme on me – I suspect that my belly takes up some of the additional room that it provides. These are exceedingly comforable pants for me, and with tops worn out over them they will also be coming to the USA with me in December/January! If I find time between now and then I might even sew another pair in a different colour. They’d also be good in a rayon knit for warmer weather.