Never enough Aeolians
This is one of my most recent projects; it was only sewn two days ago! Yet another Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee. I’ve lost track of how often I’ve sewn this pattern.
I’ve sewn this tee in a variety of different knit types over the years. This time I used a Lady McElroy viscose crepe jersey, in a print named Epic Spectacle, that I bought from Seamstress Fabrics.
This is super soft fabric with superb drape, as you’d expect from a viscose jersey. The crepe finish gives it a really lovely texture. However, I did have some trouble topstitching the hems. I am not certain that this was the crepe texture and considerable stretch of the fabric at play, because prior to sewing this I’d been sewing a shirred top for Clare and had been playing around with the bobbin tension of my machine. However, I had reset the tension and tested it out after finishing that top, although on a woven rather than a knit. You can see what I mean ini these photos.
That is not at all the stitch quality that I am used to from my machine! Has anyone else had any difficulties with topstitching on this fabric? My trouble-shooting tips for the next time that I sew with it are to do more test sewing on scraps, stabilise the areas that are being topstitched, and change the machine needle. I don’t think that I am likely to pull this stitching out and re-do it (I think it might upset the surface print, actually) but it’s the only negative in what is otherwise a terrific garment. There were no issues at all with the overlocked seams.
The Aeolian tee has beautifully shaped raglan sleeves and very deep hems. The weight in those hems make the fabric drape and hang extra nicely. From the pattern page on the Pattern Fantastique website: The Aeolian Tee (Pattern #202) is the perfect boxy cotton tee, as tall as it is wide. It has a square shaped sleeve, strategically inserted to the armhole for maximum 3D body. Sized down, it makes a perfect sheath. Neat, but not tight. Excellent in a glamour knit for a super clean, mini, cocktail dress. Sized up it responds with mega drapes and kaftan-esque volume. Fabric recommendations: Knits from light cotton to french terry. The neckband can be done in self (narrow option) works best in light knits. For heavier knits use a contrast rib for neckband can be made in narrow or wider neckband option.
I’ve recently sewn another Pattern Fantastique pattern – the Mersis dress. Stay tuned!
Lovely T-shirt. I am looking for a couple of great patterns at the moment! Would love a post on your best T shirt patterns.
I have a few that I like to use, depending on what effect I want, but this is definitely my fave.
I’ve used the Lady McElroy viscose crepe knit and two items and had exactly the same issues. Also be aware that the fabric does not wear well and stretches out of shape unless very carefully hung and handled. I love the L Mc designs and have more of their fabrics on other substrates and they are great – I wish they’d get a better jersey fabric to use
Thanks for that feedback Faye – if that’s the case, I don’t think I’ll buy any more of the jersey (it’s pricey)!
Gorgeous top Lara. I made two tops from this fabric a few weeks ago and had the same issues with the stitching. I decided it was the fabric rather than the machine. I ended up having to use a small zigzag on the hems.
Thanks for letting me know Karen. I’ve sewn Clare a tee with the leftovers and did use a zig-zag on that with a better result, but it was still tricky at times.
What a great t-shirt. Love the fabric too
This is a very cute top. I love that print! I think the combination of jersey and viscose (or rayon) makes a challenging combination. I get best results on hems like this when I first use something like misty-fuse to secure the hem in place. Then, using a ball-point needle, a walking foot (or even-feed), and a straight stitch plate, I top-stitch the hem in place from the right side. Maybe this will help, but maybe not. I hope it does!