This is one of my most recent projects; it was only sewn two days ago!  Yet another Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee.  I’ve lost track of how often I’ve sewn this pattern.

I’ve sewn this tee in a variety of different knit types over the years. This time I used a Lady McElroy viscose crepe jersey, in a print named Epic Spectacle, that I bought from Seamstress Fabrics.

This is super soft fabric with superb drape, as you’d expect from a viscose jersey. The crepe finish gives it a really lovely texture. However, I did have some trouble topstitching the hems. I am not certain that this was the crepe texture and considerable stretch of the fabric at play, because prior to sewing this I’d been sewing a shirred top for Clare and had been playing around with the bobbin tension of my machine. However, I had reset the tension and tested it out after finishing that top, although on a woven rather than a knit. You can see what I mean ini these photos.

That is not at all the stitch quality that I am used to from my machine! Has anyone else had any difficulties with topstitching on this fabric? My trouble-shooting tips for the next time that I sew with it are to do more test sewing on scraps, stabilise the areas that are being topstitched, and change the machine needle. I don’t think that I am likely to pull this stitching out and re-do it (I think it might upset the surface print, actually) but it’s the only negative in what is otherwise a terrific garment. There were no issues at all with the overlocked seams.

The Aeolian tee has beautifully shaped raglan sleeves and very deep hems. The weight in those hems make the fabric drape and hang extra nicely. From the pattern page on the Pattern Fantastique website: The Aeolian Tee (Pattern #202) is the perfect boxy cotton tee, as tall as it is wide. It has a square shaped sleeve, strategically inserted to the armhole for maximum 3D body. Sized down, it makes a perfect sheath. Neat, but not tight. Excellent in a glamour knit for a super clean, mini, cocktail dress. Sized up it responds with mega drapes and kaftan-esque volume. Fabric recommendations: Knits from light cotton to french terry. The neckband can be done in self (narrow option) works best in light knits. For heavier knits use a contrast rib for neckband can be made in narrow or wider neckband option.

I’ve recently sewn another Pattern Fantastique pattern – the Mersis dress. Stay tuned!