Month: November 2020

adult's clothing, sewing

Style Arc Joan top

I was so pleased to see Style Arc‘s Darby and Joan bundle pop up last month – pants and a top that are designed to work together.  I bought both, but so far have only sewn the Joan top.

Style Arc Joan top in printed cotton from Sarawak

Style Arc describe this pattern as follows: PRODUCT DESCRIPTION – Square shape, “V” neck, Extended shoulder line finished with a band, Slightly dipped back hemline, Sits on the high hip. Wide hem facings. FABRIC SUGGESTION Washed linen, charmeuse, crepe, rayon.

My plan is to sew this in linen, which I really love to wear as the weather warms up despite the wrinkles inherent in the fibre.  First, I wanted to sew a wearable muslin.  I had a length of border printed fabric bought in Sarawak, Borneo back in January that I thought could work well in this style.  First though I needed to decide how to place the darker teal border on the top.  I asked the Instagram hive mind for opinions on whether it should run across the shoulders or the hemline of the top – and a few people suggested that I run it vertically!  So I did.

Style Arc Joan top in printed cotton from Sarawak

This kept the teal colour closer to my face – I think it’s a better colour on me than the cream background of the rest of the print. The print isn’t completely symmetrical, so it isn’t perfectly matched along that centre front seam. The colour then shifts nicely to the lighter background along the sleeve cuffs.

Style Arc Joan top in printed cotton from Sarawak

I actually had to shorten the top a little bit to fit the front pattern piece along the border of the available fabric. It’s about 5/8″ shorter now than designed, which actually works well for short-waisted me. I took a fold of the same amount out of the back piece so that the side seams matched up. I rather like the gently curve of the back hemline. Wide facings finish it really nicely too.  I interfaced the neckline facings, but not any of the others.

Style Arc Joan top in printed cotton from Sarawak

I sewed size 12. It’s roomy, as designed. I find that Style Arc are very consistent with their sizing, and I am generally quite happy to sew the same size in their patterns almost all of the time and wear the garment with the style and design ease that was intended. But the joy of sewing is that you can do differently if you so desire! I decided not to do a forward shoulder or high rounded back alteration for my first go at this pattern because I doubted that the depth of the front and the back necklines would require it. In retrospect I possibly could have done a forward shoulder alteration, and still might, but it’s not a drastic requirement.  I am also considering unpicking then re-stitching the front hemline in a darker thread colour to match the background fabric.  The hemline is the only visible topstitching in this garment.  The neckline facings have been stitched in the ditch at the relevant seamlines to secure them.

Style Arc Joan top in printed cotton from Sarawak

I really like a V-neckline with a centre front seam – I find that it helps to get a lovely sharp finish. However, it can take a bit of practice and be a little tricky. Style Arc have a YouTube tutorial on how to face and sew the V-neckline for this top in case the instructions and diagram doesn’t work for you.  The pants I am wearing the Joan top with in these photos is the Style Arc Ethel pants. These were sewn back in 2015 and have been worn over and over but they’re still going strong in the way that linen can! I have another Joan top cut out and some coordinating linen earmarked for the Darby pants. Maybe I’ll sew them up this weekend!

adult's clothing, Helen's Closet Patterns, sewing

Helen’s Closet Luna tank

Helen’s Closet have a nice little freebie pattern, the Luna tank.  It’s just one pattern piece; the same for the front and the back.

Helens Closet Luna tank

From the pattern page: The Luna Tank is a super swingy, summery tank top that is comfortable and quick to sew. Luna features a knit binding finish on the neck and arm openings. You have the option to do a hidden or exposed binding with Luna. The hem is left raw for maximum swish and swing. Two lengths are provided and the sides of the Luna Tank curve upwards. We bet you can’t make just one! Recommended Fabrics:
Four-way stretch knits with at least 20% stretch horizontally and vertically. The Luna Tank works best in a lightweight knit fabric with plenty of drape like bamboo jersey, rayon jersey, modal jersey, lightweight cotton jersey, ITY or rib knits.

I used a something/spandex knit that came from the Darn Cheap Fabrics $2 table forever ago – I bet that plenty of my blog readers have some of this in their stash too! It came in a few different colourways. It has quite a nice amount of drape – I think it’s possibly a cotton/rayon blend. Not sure!  I did stripe match along the side seams.

Helens Closet Luna tank

I have a feeling that I sewed size 14, but really the only measurement that matters for this pattern is your high bust. There is a considerable amount of flare. It’s a great pattern for practicing band attachment. I did all the construction on the overlocker and topstitched the band seam allowances with the machine to secure them. I even left the hem raw as per the instructions!

Helens Closet Luna tank

I don’t wear this type of top very often, but it’s a good little tank pattern which I am sure will be easy to wear.  It’s also an excellent way to try out Helen’s Closet patterns, if you haven’t already. As always, the instructions and associated illustrations are superb.

adult's clothing, sewing

Jalie Bobbie V-neck top

I generally like to write my blog posts in the same order that the garments were sewn, but that approach appears to have been tossed by the wayside!  The Jalie Bobbie V-neck top was sewn a couple of weeks ago.

Jalie Bobbi tee in viscose knit

I was looking to expand my tee patterns a little, and I always like a V-neck. However, they can be a little challenging to sew in soft knits. This pattern has a neckline facing rather than a banded finish, which gives a much nicer result, in my opinion.

Jalie Bobbi tee in viscose knit

The secret of this facing is that it’s essentially a fitted crop top. So it enables a lovely finish around the neckline, holds it to the body so you don’t have gaposis, and provides for coverage at the armholes, which are fairly low. Clever!

Jalie Bobbi tee in viscose knit

From the Jalie pattern page: Rounded-V neck dolman top with unique longer facing that keeps the neckline against the body and hides the bra at all times. No more layering, no more unwanted “reveals”, even when you bend over to pick up something on the ground or hail a cab! Rounded V-Neck, No bands or binding, Loose at the bust, tapered towards the hips. RECOMMENDED FABRIC: Fluid knit with nice drape and 20% stretch across the grain, with a soft hand. Double brushed poly is NOT recommended (it would cling to the facing).

I used a rayon knit remnant (I’m pretty certain it was from The Cloth Shop) for the outer, making sure that I ‘matched’ the stripes at the side seams. I used a plain white knit for the facing/crop, as I didn’t have enough of the stripe left. One of the good things about this pattern is that you can mix and match the fabrics used for the main top and the facing/crop. The facing/crop does show at the side seams when you raise your arms, so keep that in mind. It’s a good way to use up smaller pieces.

Jalie Bobbi tee in viscose knit

I made a few changes to the pattern before cutting out, after reading the reviews online. People seem to either really like this pattern or feel very ‘meh’ about it. As with many designs, I reckon it depends on what sort of fit you prefer! I shortened the pattern at both shorten/lengthen lines, removing a couple of inches from the length. I also graded down two sizes from the bust to the hip – very easy to do, as the side seams are a straight line. By the way this is a multi-sized pattern, covering 28 sizes starting with children. I am wracking my brain to remember if I also did a forward shoulder alteration – I don’t think that I did.

Jalie Bobbi tee in viscose knit

I reckon that I got the fit just right with this highly wearable muslin! I doubt that I’ll make any further changes unless I gain/lose weight. This would be a great shell top pattern for work if sewn in a sophisticated solid crepe knit or similar, and a great casual garment in something like the stripe that I used. It’s also very fast to sew. The facing/crop has the armholes edges simply turned and stitched, which worked perfectly using a zig zag on my knit, and the facing/crop hem is left raw. It could easily be converted into a shelf bra too, depending on the fabric used for the facing/crop and by adding elastic to the bottom. I am very short waisted, so the facing/crop almost comes to my waist. Depending on your torso length and bust depth you might want to alter the length and make it either shorter or longer. Either way, that’s easy to do.

Jalie Bobbi tee in viscose knit

This pattern is a winner, in my opinion! A great one to have in the knit tee/top arsenal.

adult's clothing, Pattern Fantastique, sewing

Never enough Aeolians

This is one of my most recent projects; it was only sewn two days ago!  Yet another Pattern Fantastique Aeolian tee.  I’ve lost track of how often I’ve sewn this pattern.

Aeolian tee in viscose crepe jersey from Seamstress Fabrics

I’ve sewn this tee in a variety of different knit types over the years. This time I used a Lady McElroy viscose crepe jersey, in a print named Epic Spectacle, that I bought from Seamstress Fabrics.

Aeolian tee in viscose crepe jersey from Seamstress Fabrics

This is super soft fabric with superb drape, as you’d expect from a viscose jersey. The crepe finish gives it a really lovely texture. However, I did have some trouble topstitching the hems. I am not certain that this was the crepe texture and considerable stretch of the fabric at play, because prior to sewing this I’d been sewing a shirred top for Clare and had been playing around with the bobbin tension of my machine. However, I had reset the tension and tested it out after finishing that top, although on a woven rather than a knit. You can see what I mean ini these photos.

Aeolian tee in viscose crepe jersey from Seamstress Fabrics

Aeolian tee in viscose crepe jersey from Seamstress Fabrics

That is not at all the stitch quality that I am used to from my machine! Has anyone else had any difficulties with topstitching on this fabric? My trouble-shooting tips for the next time that I sew with it are to do more test sewing on scraps, stabilise the areas that are being topstitched, and change the machine needle. I don’t think that I am likely to pull this stitching out and re-do it (I think it might upset the surface print, actually) but it’s the only negative in what is otherwise a terrific garment. There were no issues at all with the overlocked seams.

Aeolian tee in viscose crepe jersey from Seamstress Fabrics

The Aeolian tee has beautifully shaped raglan sleeves and very deep hems. The weight in those hems make the fabric drape and hang extra nicely. From the pattern page on the Pattern Fantastique website: The Aeolian Tee (Pattern #202) is the perfect boxy cotton tee, as tall as it is wide. It has a square shaped sleeve, strategically inserted to the armhole for maximum 3D body. Sized down, it makes a perfect sheath. Neat, but not tight. Excellent in a glamour knit for a super clean, mini, cocktail dress. Sized up it responds with mega drapes and kaftan-esque volume. Fabric recommendations: Knits from light cotton to french terry. The neckband can be done in self (narrow option) works best in light knits. For heavier knits use a contrast rib for neckband can be made in narrow or wider neckband option.

Aeolian tee in viscose crepe jersey from Seamstress Fabrics

I’ve recently sewn another Pattern Fantastique pattern – the Mersis dress. Stay tuned!

miscellaneous, musings

And things change

It’s a month since my last blog post.  I’ve been sewing during that time, and will update here on the blog soon.  It’s been a month of change.

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The sun kept going up, and going down. Daylight hours grew longer and longer. Work from home started up again for me. Clare went back to school on site, then so did Stella.

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Other than school going back, life continued to be centred at home.

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And while all of this continued, the daily numbers of new covid-19 cases continued to go down. Every day we tuned in to the presser to hear what the numbers were and where things were at on the roadmap toward reopening. And gradually, some restrictions were relaxed and the numbers went down and down. And stayed down.

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The 5km travel from home zone extended to 25 km – I finally got to go for a walk with my cousin Freya! And we were able to meet up in a park with Dan’s mum for the first time since she moved to Melbourne at the beginning of lockdown. So good. And eventually, the hairdressers opened as well.

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Being able to have a haircut just felt so NORMAL. That was the best thing about it. Yes, the hairdresser and I still wore masks, but it felt so normal.

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And then, lockdown ended. After 111 days since stage 3 restrictions began, that moved to stage 4, things eased considerably. From a daily high of 725 new cases at the beginning of August, we were down to a daily count of zero. The modelling was right.

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On Wednesday retail businesses opened again. A number of restrictions on other workplaced eased. The ‘four reasons’ to leave the house were lifted. Hospitality venues opened again. Don’t get me wrong – there are still MANY restrictions about how everything is operating. Caps on numbers, density limits, still many activities not permitted, strict limits on inter-household visits, the 25km travel radius still remains in Melbourne as does the ‘ring of steel’ between Melbourne and regional Victoria. Masks remain mandatory. But it’s so good to go out for dinner with friends again, like we did on Friday evening. I am continuing to take life a week or so at a time. Because as well all know only too well nowadays, things can change – and they do.

I don’t really have the brain capacity to adequately describe how lockdown as been. At times we’ve been a deeply divided city, state and even country, and sometimes politics seemed to take over the public health imperative. Lockdown has definitely had a massive economic impact and many have really struggled with the negative mental health impacts. We’ll be dealing with the issues that have been created by lockdown for a long, long time. That said, I do think that we all pulled together and did what had to be done for the sake of public health. I have wondered a few times why most Victorians managed to adhere to lockdown, and think it might come down to Australians’ basic desire to have everyone looked after. We are a country with universal healthcare and social security, and I think that people from all sides of the political spectrum support those things (despite systemic imperfections). Letting the virus just ‘go for it’ wasn’t an acceptable proposition or a viable alternative to lockdown for the majority. I am sure that many people far cleverer than me have analysed all of this and will continue to do so, both locally and globally, those are just some of my thoughts (and I am well aware that not everyone will agree). Melbourne’s success in driving down covid-19 cases is being reported internationally. Let’s hope that others can learn from what happened here in Victoria, and be able to get the virus under some sort of control while mitigating the many negatives as much as possible. Meanwhile, we take our cautious steps back into our new normality, praying that all the systems that have been put into place since this second wave began have been refined and will be able to contain the cases that will inevitably pop up in the future. So far, so good. As I type this, I hear that Victoria once again has had no new cases or death in the last day. Boris Johnson has just announced a month long lockdown in England as total confirmed cases pass one million.

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For us, what will probably be the biggest change of the past month is that Clare has finished school. She still has to do her final exams, with her last one on the 23rd November, but that’s it for formal classes. We began 2020 with so much excitement and anticipation for her last year. But all the things that Clare is involved in, and all the ‘lasts’ that create markers and help with the transition from one stage of life to another, evaporated. No last school production. No last Festival of Jazz. No last Mother’s Day morning tea, or Father’s Day breakfast.  No last music soiree. No last Carols concert. No last debate. No last liturgy, or last assembly. And obviously, none of these markers for us as parents either. But in many ways we were fortunate – Clare did get back to school on site for three weeks, and the school was able to arrange lots of special things to mark the end of the year within strict covid-safe guidelines. They had a pyjama day last week, and a dress-up day on the last day where the school provided a special breakfast, a gift parcel for each student, and a guard of honour as they left the school for the last time. And there will be a graduation ceremony once exams have finished, which will be students and staff only in attendance but will be live streamed for parents. We are incredibly proud of Clare and her cohort and her teachers – they deserve whatever celebrations and acknowledgements they can get! It’s been a year 12 like no other.

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Oh 2020, what a year you’ve been so far. So many losses, for so many people, in so many different ways. Yes, there’s been some positives come out of it all, but gee those positives are extremely outweighed by the crap. And if I hear the word ‘resilience’ one more time I might just scream. I’d like to thank the many people who have contacted me during this time just to check in, to express solidarity, and to let me know how they are going. I send my best wishes and my love to all those who are currently living in places where covid-19 numbers are going up and up, and really do pray that things turn around for you soon too. I hope that the Victorian experience has given you hope.

To finish off, you may have noticed that my blog is now at a new address. The old one is currently redirecting here, but you might wish to update any bookmarks/subscriptions that you have, if you haven’t already. It will be getting a new look soon too – Clare ‘rebranded’ it as her major design project and assessment for Visual Communication, and I just need to do all the behind the scenes work to update. I’ll be back soon with some more sewing content – because really, isn’t that what we’re all here for!