Month: August 2020

adult's clothing, sewing

Can’t get enough of Misty

I don’t even think that I could guess at the number of pairs of Style Arc Misty jeans I have sewn.  The first pair was made way back in 2015, and I still wear that pair.  It is a pull-on jean, designed for stretch wovens.  Because of this, the fabric that you choose can make a significant difference to the overall fit and wearing comfort.  You really do need to choose a woven fabric with a good degree of stretch.

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

This time around the fabric is a tan stretch denim that I bought from The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe. I was after something fairly neutral. I already have a few pairs of pull-on stretch jeans in shades of traditional indigo, and it’s good to have a bit more variety in the wardrobe. None of the bengaline pants I normally wear to work have had an outing since March, and instead I’ve been wearing more jeans and similarly casual styles.

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

There’s enough stretch in this denim that you can even see the ridge that my tucked in camisole forms! I feel as though I can almost sew this pattern in my sleep nowadays. There are a couple of basic alterations that I do. First, let’s take a look at the pattern as designed. From the pattern website: Want the look of a slim jean and comfort as well? Then this is the pant for you, this style has all the features of a jean, slim cut leg, mock fly, front pockets, back yoke and jean back pockets. The treatment of the elastic waistband makes this a fantastic pant to have in your wardrobe. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Stretch denim or any stretch woven fabric with 3% spandex is suitable.

 

misty-jean

Size wise, I go down in these. I generally sew Style Arc pants in size 10 (occasionally a 12) even though my waist measures around size 16. It just works better for my hips and thighs, and with elastic waists it’s not difficult to add a little belly room. I don’t use the exposed elastic waistband as per the pattern; instead I used the waistband from the Elle pants as a guide to make a waistband with elastic enclosed inside it.

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

There’s a fair bit of muffin top there, but I need that to keep my pants up! Because it’s all stretchy it’s actually quite comfortable. I cut these out with a bit of extra room in the front side seams at waist level, and add the equivalent amount to the length of the waistband. I also do a full belly alteration when I remember (often the fabric stretch looks after that bit for me). You might have also noticed that I eliminate the front faux pockets and on this pair, I’ve eliminated the faux front fly as well. I don’t need the additional detailing on my front – tops are always covering it, and it means less bulk and more comfort.

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

I do like to keep the back yoke and pockets, as I think that they give these the jeans vibe that I’m after. There’s the usual folds on the back of the thigh, but they’re not excessive (one of the reasons that I love this pattern with my relatively thin thighs) and they are handy for movement and comfort when sitting. This time around I used one of the Closet Core Patterns free jeans pocket stitching designs to add a bit of detail to the back pockets.

Style Arc Misty jeans in stretch denim from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe

I used upholstery thread to stitch the pocket design, and my machine did not like it at all. Even though I used regular Gutermann thread in the bobbin, and had interfaced the pockets for stability, it did all sorts of weird things on the back of the pocket stitching. Good thing it didn’t really matter. I switched back to regular thread with a triple stitch for the rest of the top stitching. Most construction was on the overlocker.

There will no doubt be more Misty jeans over time.  I’ve tried a couple of other Style Arc pull-on jeans patterns, and this one is definitely my favourite.  I’ve noticed that there are quite a few pattern companies that do what looks like a good pull-on jean nowadays.  Itch to Stitch have the Mountain View pull-on jeans, and Designer Stitch have the Dylan pants.  No doubt there are others!  It’s all about finding the draft that works the best for you.

 

adult's clothing, sewing

Still Sunny

I first sewed the Style Arc Sunny top back in March 2014.  I still wear that very first version!  I’ve sewn it five times now; this version makes number six.

Style Arc Sunny top inn french terry and cotton spandex

I’m not sewing to any plan at the moment; this was a random sew to use up a long-term stash resident. The body of the top is sewn from french terry; the sleeves and neckband are cotton/spandex.

Style Arc Sunny top inn french terry and cotton spandex

This is size 12, without any alterations. Although I have a short torso, I prefer to leave the body length of this pattern as designed.

Style Arc Sunny top inn french terry and cotton spandex

From the pattern website: This is a new shape for a knit top. The oversized look becomes very flattering because of pattern drafting and the cocoon shape which is the new on trend look. Try it, you will love it!! FABRIC SUGGESTION: Slinky knit, any drapey knit.

sunny-top

Notice the fabric suggestion? French terry is definitely not in there! There’s nothing terribly slinky or drapey about it! However, I think that it still works well in this pattern in combination with the much stretchier cotton/spandex knit for the sleeves and neckband. Like the Tessuti Mandy top, the sleeves are quite fitted and because it’s a dropped shoulder, you need good stretch in there to make them comfortable. You don’t want fabric that only stretches across – it needs to stretch up and down as well!

Style Arc Sunny top inn french terry and cotton spandex

It’s worth going a little off piste with fabric selections sometimes, but you do need to really think about what the consequences might be, and ameliorate them where possible. The French terry has enough body to give this version of the Sunny a more definite cocoon shape, while still having enough drape and just enough stretch to keep the armholes comfortable where they join to the sleeve. I’m glad that I chose to use it, and it’s handy to have added a plain white top to my wardrobe.

Style Arc Sunny top inn french terry and cotton spandex

This pattern is one of my Style Arc favourites, and I’m now thinking of sewing up another version in viscose jersey to really get that drape. I think that there’s a perfect green somewhere in my stash.

adult's clothing, George and Ginger, sewing

George and Ginger December dress

Sometimes it’s just as easy to sew a dress as it is to sew a top.  Because really, it’s just a longer version!

George and Ginger December dress

This is the George and Ginger December Dress. It is described as follows: The December Dress is the unique and flattering style you’ve been looking for! This drop-pocket design features tunic, mini and dress lengths…as well as sleeveless, cap, 3/4 and long sleeve options! Suggested fabric for this pattern is any knit fabric with at least 50% stretch. More stable knits like cotton lycra and stretch velvet will give more of a “poofy” effect. Drapier knits like rayon spandex and ITY will lay flatter.

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I chose to sew the dress option in the mini length, with the added hem band. On my 158cm frame this ends up at knee length. I sewed size 12, without alterations.

George and Ginger December dress

The fabric came from a Facebook seller. It’s a poly/spandex blend, with a matte finish. The oversized print is highly effective in this dress!

George and Ginger December dress

The sleeve cuffs were super long – I could have halved the length. Instead I just fold them back. If I feel inspired I will cut them off and reattach at a shorter length. Or else I will continue to fold them back! The front of the dress is a little shorter than the back, which is part of the design.

George and Ginger December dress

I really like the exaggerated hip curve that gives those drapey sides. It’s a style that isn’t for everybody, but is definitely right up my alley. I didn’t bother with the pockets; the fabric is fairly light weight and I didn’t want pockets dragging the sides down. The pattern does have a pocket option.

George and Ginger December dress

This is a fun dress, and I’d really like to sew it again for summer, also in a dramatic bright print. I suspect that I’ll wear a summer version more. There are many versions of this dress on a variety of sizes and shapes on the George and Ginger pattern page; I think that it looks good on pretty much everyone!