I don’t even think that I could guess at the number of pairs of Style Arc Misty jeans I have sewn. The first pair was made way back in 2015, and I still wear that pair. It is a pull-on jean, designed for stretch wovens. Because of this, the fabric that you choose can make a significant difference to the overall fit and wearing comfort. You really do need to choose a woven fabric with a good degree of stretch.
This time around the fabric is a tan stretch denim that I bought from The Cloth Shop, Ivanhoe. I was after something fairly neutral. I already have a few pairs of pull-on stretch jeans in shades of traditional indigo, and it’s good to have a bit more variety in the wardrobe. None of the bengaline pants I normally wear to work have had an outing since March, and instead I’ve been wearing more jeans and similarly casual styles.
There’s enough stretch in this denim that you can even see the ridge that my tucked in camisole forms! I feel as though I can almost sew this pattern in my sleep nowadays. There are a couple of basic alterations that I do. First, let’s take a look at the pattern as designed. From the pattern website: Want the look of a slim jean and comfort as well? Then this is the pant for you, this style has all the features of a jean, slim cut leg, mock fly, front pockets, back yoke and jean back pockets. The treatment of the elastic waistband makes this a fantastic pant to have in your wardrobe. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION: Stretch denim or any stretch woven fabric with 3% spandex is suitable.
Size wise, I go down in these. I generally sew Style Arc pants in size 10 (occasionally a 12) even though my waist measures around size 16. It just works better for my hips and thighs, and with elastic waists it’s not difficult to add a little belly room. I don’t use the exposed elastic waistband as per the pattern; instead I used the waistband from the Elle pants as a guide to make a waistband with elastic enclosed inside it.
There’s a fair bit of muffin top there, but I need that to keep my pants up! Because it’s all stretchy it’s actually quite comfortable. I cut these out with a bit of extra room in the front side seams at waist level, and add the equivalent amount to the length of the waistband. I also do a full belly alteration when I remember (often the fabric stretch looks after that bit for me). You might have also noticed that I eliminate the front faux pockets and on this pair, I’ve eliminated the faux front fly as well. I don’t need the additional detailing on my front – tops are always covering it, and it means less bulk and more comfort.
I do like to keep the back yoke and pockets, as I think that they give these the jeans vibe that I’m after. There’s the usual folds on the back of the thigh, but they’re not excessive (one of the reasons that I love this pattern with my relatively thin thighs) and they are handy for movement and comfort when sitting. This time around I used one of the Closet Core Patterns free jeans pocket stitching designs to add a bit of detail to the back pockets.
I used upholstery thread to stitch the pocket design, and my machine did not like it at all. Even though I used regular Gutermann thread in the bobbin, and had interfaced the pockets for stability, it did all sorts of weird things on the back of the pocket stitching. Good thing it didn’t really matter. I switched back to regular thread with a triple stitch for the rest of the top stitching. Most construction was on the overlocker.
There will no doubt be more Misty jeans over time. I’ve tried a couple of other Style Arc pull-on jeans patterns, and this one is definitely my favourite. I’ve noticed that there are quite a few pattern companies that do what looks like a good pull-on jean nowadays. Itch to Stitch have the Mountain View pull-on jeans, and Designer Stitch have the Dylan pants. No doubt there are others! It’s all about finding the draft that works the best for you.