More repeat patterns!  Today I present to you my most recent incarnations of the Marilla Walker Maya Top and Style Arc Daphne Duo pant.

I’ll start with the top. It was sewn back in July, so completely unseasonal. I was sorting through my stash and came across a small length of super soft black chambray (almost lightweight denim) and wondered what I could use it for. The Maya top popped into my head, so off I went.

This is an incredibly simple pattern, but took me ages to sew! I remember that I slowed right down for this top, and really took my time. I used contrasting double gauze for the neckline and armhole/sleeve facings, and made bias binding from it as well to finish the hemline.

From the pattern website: The Maya pattern takes its influence from my Central American mother and family. It is a cap sleeve dress or top that is designed to hang well from the shoulders and have a wide fit from the bust down, much like a traditional Guatemalan Huipil. It is intended to be playful and fun and can really showcase an amazing fabric, whether that be a bold print or luscious fibre.

Although relatively simple in design, the variations are endless and there are several lengths to choose from ranging from a cropped top to a knee length dress with a hip length top and shorter dress length in-between. Other variants include a straight or shaped hem, button or plain front as well as an option for a sash belt.

The construction is straight forward and creates a tidy finish as you work through the instructions leaving no raw edges in sight.

FABRIC SUGGESTIONS – Light to medium weight woven fabric.

I still remember that this was an extremely satisfying garment to sew.  Every fabric involved pressed beautifully, sewed easily, and the end result really pleases me.  I can’t remember what size I sewed – I’d need to pull out the pattern to find out – but suspect it was size 5 or 6 based on bust measurement.

Athough it’s black, being chambray I feel that it’s a softer type of black and isn’t too harsh against my extremely pale skin.

The Daphne Duo pants are a Style Arc pattern. I last sewed them in linen, and thought that rayon would work nicely. This fabric is from Spotlight – they have some terrific rayon and viscose prints at the moment. Just make sure that you pre-shrink them all before you cut out your garment!

From the pattern website: A pant that is a perfect partner to our Daphne Duo Tunic. The side seam ankle tucks gives the legs an interesting shape and sets it apart from a regular elastic waist pull on pant. Using a stretch woven fabric for the back waistband allows this pant to sit on the waist without bulk across the hip. You will enjoy wearing this fashionable yet comfortable pant. FABRIC SUGGESTION Crepe, silk, woven that drapes. Stretch woven (we used Bengaline with 30% stretch) for the back waistband.

I did as Style Arc did and used bengaline for the back waistband.  I always hold on to my bengaline scraps, so have managed to accumulate quite a few colours over the past few years.

There is also elastic in the waistband. The combination of bengaline and elastic with the flat centre front piece makes these pants extremely comfortable to wear and they easily accommodate my weight fluctuations. Now I’m tempted to see if I can find the time to sew just one more pair of these pants before Christmas!

Fibre Mood patterns have been popping up here and there on Instagram and in blogs.  I haven’t delved deeply into them, other than working out that Fibre Mood appears to be a European online sewing commuity and pattern magazine, with individual patterns also available for purchase.

I gave the free Frances top pattern a crack. It’s very similar to the popular Assembly Line Cuff top (which is not free) in that it  has cap sleeves gathered into elastic ‘cuffs’.  Fibre Mood describe the Frances top as Oversized top in lightweight fabric with short, loose, gathered sleeves. A round, wide neckline on the front. The top is slightly longer in the back and the neckline has a slightly deeper cut. Sizing ranges from XS to XXXL.

The fabric that I used is a semi-sheer crepe, from very deep stash (it’s vintage, passed on to me from someone else). It’s got the right sort of hand and drape for this pattern, and I love the contrasting white/red print, but it’s probably too predominantly black for me. It was easier to sew with than I thought. I did make sure that I stabilised the neckline before sewing and binding – I knew that otherwise it would stretch out.

The elasticised cuffs were pretty easy to do. Essentially just sew a casing, and insert the elastic. I think that you could try this with different widths; wider might have been nice. Size wise, this is actually too big for me. I can’t remember what size I actually cut out, but in some ways it was fortunately that I cut out a larger one rather than a smaller one because I forgot that this pattern requires you to add seam allowances! If you sew it, don’t forget that seam allowances are NOT included. It’s a wearable size for me, but it feels thaat bit too voluminous all around. I am hoping that Mum will want to take this one off my hands – I can see it fitting nicely into her wardrobe!

I’m not sure that I was excited enough by this pattern to really get into Fibre Mood at this stage. Having to add seam allowances is always a downer for me; I’m just not used to doing it. But they do seem to have some interesting styles, so I suppose that I’ll continue to pop over to their website from time to time and take a look.

Yes, another repeat pattern.  But this time I got it all right!

The first time I sewed the Style Arc Rae tunic I used a fabric that wasn’t quite drapey enough – it was a cotton/lycra, and this tunic really does need something that will fall a little closer to the body. Well, this fabric was perfect! It’s a polyester knit remnant that I got from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe.

As well as having the right drape, it has wonderful colours in it. As you know, I generally try to minimise the amount of black clothing in my wardrobe as I don’t think that it does much for me. But the reds and corals and turquoises in this print really bring this fabric to life. And it’s great for accessorising!

The pattern was released a couple of years ago at the height of ‘cold shoulder’ and split sleeve popularity. I really like the split sleeve on this design as it shows some arm but not too much, and still has bra coverage. It’s also very very easy to sew. The curved hemlines were stitched in place before sewing up the side seams – so much easier with such a definite curve. I suspect that I used double sided fusible tape (probably from here) to secure then prior to stitching.

From the pattern website: The curved hemline and the, so popular, split sleeve give this great tunic top an easy, casual look. Simple to make with an all in one sleeve and body, this tunic will become your go to top to wear for all occasions. FABRIC SUGGESTION: Crepe, Silk or even a Knit.

The line drawing shows a centre back seam with a button and loop closure – while this is a lovely detail, I didn’t need the opening and simply cut the back pattern piece on the fold.  If I sewed it in a woven I might consider including it but as I have a fairly small head I probably don’t need it in order to get the top on and off.  This pattern really does need fabric with good drape – as suggested a crepe or silk or drapey knit; I think that rayon would work really well too.

I did some work in a hot climate earlier in the year, and this top was great!  Comfortable moving between the heat outdoors and air conditioning indoors, and work appropriate with my black bengaline Elle pants.

I find it interesting that although I continue to buy new patterns, I continue to sew ones that I have sewn before.  I first sewed the Style Arc Simone cardigan in 2014, and since then have sewn another four.  That very first one finally ran out of ooomph after many, many wears, and I realised that I really did need another one in the same colour to replace it.  So here we have Simone the Fifth!

Over the years I have discovered that a greenish yellow works really well in my wardrobe. This fabric is a quality ponte that I found at Eliza Fabrics. It works really well for this cardigan.

The pockets are integrated into a fold in the front piece – rather ingenious! It also gives terrific drape in the recommended fabrics and interesting structured folds in fabrics like this soft ponte.

This is size 12, no alterations. Construction is primarily on the overlocker, with the machine used to secure hems with a twin needle and to topstitch down seam allowances. From the pattern website: This clever cardigan pattern has been designed so as the drape creates the pocket. An easy every day must have cardi. Make it with or without buttons. FABRIC SUGGESTION & DESCRIPTION Knit jersey, slinky or any drapey knit.

I don’t think that I’m finished with this pattern yet.  Next time I’ll follow the pattern recommendations and do it in something a little lighter weight, just to change things up a bit.  It’s easy to sew, and doesn’t take all that much time, and works well with most of my wardrobe.