The Sewing Revival is a relatively new (to me) pdf pattern company, from New Zealand.  There are rather a lot of patterns on their website that I fancy!  I had to start somewhere, and I have started with the Fantail Shirt.  I think that I spotted a couple of versions on Instagram shortly after the pattern was released that sent me straight to the pattern shop.

I’ll start with the first one that I made. The fabric is so, so lovely, and not as blue as it appears in these photographs. It’s chambray from Drapers Fabrics. I may go back for more. Fabulous to sew and to wear.

I sewed size Medium, but should have sewed size Large. I was hoping that on my short-waisted body the front would be lower, but it exposes my belly more than I like, and feels a little too firm through the shoulders and bust. It’s wearable, but only just. However it will be kept in my wardrobe in case I have a downward weight fluctuation. That fabric and the overall style really need to be worn! So what did I do? I reprinted it in size Large, and sewed it again.

This time I have used beautiful printed viscose/rayon from Eliza Fabrics. I think that I got the very last piece! Isn’t that print just something! This time the shirt fits brilliantly. I have already worn it out to dinner numerous times – it’s the bridge between casual and dressy.

So, what makes this such a great pattern? Here’s the description from the pattern website: A sister top to the Fantail Tank but with full length raglan sleeves. Easy to sew with a designer twist, the center front hem gather adds unique interest and the lowered back hem ensures the top is flattering around the derriere. A lovely line is created from the center front down along the hip and around the rear hem creating a “fantail”. The Fantail Shirt is a simple sew and the curved hem made easy with bias binding. This is a trans-seasonal top that can take you from smart casual to work. STYLE OPTIONS: Round neck and “V” neck in a SHIRT or SWEATSHIRT option.  RECOMMENDED FABRIC: FANTAIL SHIRT: Designed for woven fabrics, we recommend cotton, rayon, viscose, polyester crepe and light weight linen. FANTAIL SWEATER: Sew with light to medium weight knits (jersey cotton, sweat shirting and merino wool).

As you can see,  my chambray shirt is the round neck option, and the patterned shirt is the V neck option.  It’s not hard to make!  It’s always easy to construct a top with raglan sleeves.  The V neckline is faced.  Plenty of pins were needed (or did I use fusible tape?) to hold the facing in place while it was topstitched down.

I used nice 3.2cm wide elastic in the cuffs and the gathered front section. I used the same width for both rather than narrower in the cuffs as per the pattern for reasons of consistency and laziness. The instructions are very clear, and it’s easy to do.

I think that this shirt would work well for lots of people! I hope to give the sweatshirt a go at some stage too; not until next winter though. The weather here is heating up and at the moment I really want to get on to summer sewing! In the meantime I am wearing this shirt at every appropriate opportunity – it’s a sewing hit for me.

Like the Style Arc Adelaide jacket that I blogged recently, the Style Arc Loren jacket lends itself to a number of interpretations.

I sewed mine in a quilted knit that I found at Eliza Fabrics. What a fabulous fabric! There was just the one bolt, a designer end. I have been late to discovering the bargainous goodness that can be found at Eliza’s, which is rather sad as apparently they will be closing their doors once they’ve sold most of their extensive inventory.

So, back to the jacket! From the Style Arc website: This easy fit essential jacket will become your favourite go to garment for all seasons and all occasions, this will only be defined by your choice of fabric. Featuring a slim shawl collar and optional patch or inseam pockets. This is a simply constructed pattern that can be made in wool suiting or linen for every day, knit for the weekend or for a touch of glamour make it in lurex fabric or for an on-trend look make it in faux fur. FABRIC SUGGESTION Wool, linen, ponte, crepe, faux fur, sweater knit or lurex.

I really encourage you to pop over to the pattern page and take a look at the photos of the jacket samples – there are four versions in an extremely diverse range of fabrics!  Note that this is an unlined jacket (but for those of you who prefer linings, I think that it would be very straightforward to add one – possibly a great foray into drafting).

This jacket is the perfect style to let the fabric do the talking. It’s also very easy to construct. I mostly used the overlocker! I did need to secure the facings to the jacket outer with fusible Vliesofix tape so that they would not droop. In a different fabric I may have chosen to topstitch them down, or might not have needed to do anything at all but just let them be! They’re nice and wide. I sewed size 12 without any alteration. I might consider a forward shoulder alteration if I’m making it in a woven instead of a stable knit.

It even looks okay with the collar up! I’ve worn this jacket a great deal since I sewed it back at the beginning of winter. The patch pockets are really handy, and it slips perfectly over most clothes. I think that a transseasonal linen version could be in order!

Sometimes it’s just easier to lead a blog post with a photo of the garment in question. This is the Designer Stitch JoJo dress.  Aren’t all the colours in that print absolutely divine!

From the pattern website: The JoJo will be your go to garment for whatever the occasion – easy to wear, stylish and chic with a touch of FABULOUS-NESS about it. This garment offers something for everyone regardless of the season you are in. The JoJo Pattern offers a number of styling options and combinations.

1. Square Box Length
2. Thigh Length
3. Tunic Length
4. Full Dress Length.
5. Thigh or Tunic Length with attached Lower Skirt

All of the above styles are completed with choice of
1. Wide Open Turtleneck
2. Standard Turtleneck
3. Deep Cowl Neck.
4. V Bound Neckband
5. Hood.

With 3 sleeve lengths – ¾, ⅞ and full length including option of separate cuffs to attach to sleeve at ¾ and ⅞ lengths.

Oh my goodness, that’s SO many options!  There are lots of tester garments that you can see on the website if you need some ideas about what you might prefer.  I went pretty much all out and chose to do the tunic with attached skirt version of the dress, with the deep cowl neck, and sleeves with long cuffs attached.

I possibly did make this one size too large. There’s a lot of fabric there! I also needed to add elastic to the waistline seam to keep the top bloused and the skirt up in place. It was very quick to sew – construction pretty much all on the overlocked. If I sewed this version again I would double the cowl so that it was self-lined – it took some fiddling to keep the reverse from showing.

That’s very much a deep dolman, almost batwing, shape! This is a difficult shape to wear a coat or jacket over, so check the weather forecast before you put this style on. The fabric came to me from a Restash event. It’s a stretchy knit with a lovely crepe type of finish, which made it very easy to work with. Not slippery and slidey!

As much as I like the colours, I’ve passed this dress on to a new happy home.  Too much collar fiddling on my sloping shoulders.  Sizing down should definitely help with future makes.  It’s a great pattern, as Designer Stitch patterns always are.  Instructions are extremely clear, and the drafting is top notch.  Ann knows what she is doing – it’s always apparent to me when using pdf patterns if the designer has actually studied fashion design and pattern drafting and has years of experience in the field, as she has.

I’d like to sew this up again, but sometimes I get decision paralysis when a pattern has quite this many options!  Maybe a V necked, 3/4 sleeve dress option would be good for transitional wear.  Let’s wait and see!

This particular blog post is very well timed, because when I clicked over to the Love Notions website I noticed that all their patterns – including this one, the Forte top and dress – are currently 40% off!  Not sure how long the sale goes for, so if you fancy giving this pattern a go now is a good time for it.

Regular readers have probably already figured out what drew me to this pattern.
There’s a V-neckline with a centre front seam! Loose through the mid-section!
But actually, this pattern has a number of variations. From the website: The Forte top and dress is a great transitional piece to add to your wardrobe. Included are four body styles, two dresses and several sleeve options to mix and match. Mix and match the sleeve flounces or leave them off entirely. The Forte is meant for light to medium weight knits. Views B & D can even be made as dresses! This pattern is rated for confident beginners.

• Four top views:
  • A- gathered skirt peplum style with scoop neck
  • B- waterfall skirt with v-neck
  • C- classic tee with scoop neck
  • D- gathered inverted with v-neck
• Two dress views: B & D
• Six sleeve options to mix and match:
  • short with flounce
  • bell
  • gathered
  • plain short
  • plain mid-length
  • plain long
• A full bust piece is also include for ladies with a 4-6″ high bust to full bust difference– no need to do a FBA! The Forte is fitted at the bust with plenty of ease in the waist and hips.

I essentially sewed view B, but with plain long sleeves.  This top was really a muslin, and I used a lightweight finely striped knit that had been in my stash for a while.  It worked really nicely in this style.

A bustier friend of my who has sewn this found that the front seam cut across her boobs rather than just below it. I’m a C cup in bras, and wouldn’t want it any higher. I think that those with smaller boobs would be very happy with where that seamline sits. I won’t alter it for future makes, but it’ certainly something to be aware of. Take advantage of the FBA piece if your boobs are bigger than mine!

The back is quite plain. More fitted at the shoulder and upper back then loose through the body. I am starting to wonder if I should include a rounded back alteration in my arsenal, although I would use it judiciously. Something to think about – although first I need to get a forward shoulder and short back waist length alteration into front of mind before I cut into my fabric!

This top has already exited my wardrobe and found a new happy owner. It served it’s purpose as a wearable muslin, and I’ll remake it in a colour and fabric that feels more me. There’s nothing wrong with this; I just reach for other tops in preference. I will definitely be sewing it again though – possibly the view B dress for summer.

Hmmm, did I get this pattern as a Style Arc freebie one month?  I really can’t remember.  Whether it was free or not, it was definitely worth adding to my collection – especially considering that I have already used it!

From the Style Arc website: Cut for a boxy fit our Adelaide Woven Jacket will become a mainstay of your wardrobe. Make it as a tailored jacket using the lining pattern to create a sophisticated look for work or that special occasion. Make it unlined with in-seam pockets for a perfect desk to dinner look. Alternatively why not sew an inside bind to the cut edges and add a patch pocket for a great weekend jacket? You can get all these looks and more from just one pattern. FABRIC SUGGESTION Wool, felt, melton, linen.

I had some rigid denim on hand so decided to sew what would hopefully be a wearable muslin. And very wearable it is!

Yes, it’s boxy, as described. And as most of my regular readers know, I am a fan of boxy. I sewed size 12, and had the loose fit that I expected from the line drawings.

I chose to do the topstitching in blue because I’d just sewn up a striped Concord tee that had fine stripes of blue in it – so why not! I also found a couple of vintage buttons in stash that were pretty much the same shade of blue. Serendipity! I used a triple stitch for the topstitching, and used it to secure all the facings in place. I didn’t line my jacket.

I have a feeling that this jacket will be worn for years and years. I’ll definitely use this pattern again too – I have some boiled wool that I think would work perfectly. I’d also like to give a linen version a try. There is lots of opportunity to really make this pattern your own.

Here I am with another Pattern Emporium garment! This time it is the Starstruck Side Tie Top.

As per the pattern website: The Side Tie Top has a beautiful silhouette with an easy & flattering fit through the body. It drapes to one side with a tie finish at the hip. Choose from a variety of sleeves including short, long, bishop & full flounce. It is so comfortable you’ll think you’re wearing a t-shirt & is perfect for your drapey stretch knit fabrics.

There are seven sleeve options, and three neckline options.

I chose to sew the cuffed long sleeve (avoiding hems, how lazy) and the higher scoop neckline.  The neckline is bound rather than banded, which allows for a really nice narrow finish. I elected to cut the ‘tall’ length, even though I am short, to give more torso space. You can vary how tightly you knot the side tie.

The tie edges and bottom hem were neatened on the overlocker then turned to the inside and hemmed with a twin needle. One of the many interesting things about this top is that the body is cut in one piece. There are no side seams; just shoulder seams and a centre back seam. The sleeves are inserted in the round, as there isn’t the option to do them in the flat without those side seams.

The fabric is a pretty slippery poly/spandex knit from Spotlight a couple of years ago. I really like the colours, and pattern matching wasn’t really possible due to the cut. I did make sure that I had the directional print running the same way on the sleeves and the body, phew!

I liked this pattern so much that I sewed up another one, this time in a softer knit, possibly cotton/viscose/spandex, with a fine green/grey stripe. It’s exactly the same style and pattern pieces, but sits slightly differently because of the different fabric. It’s also a winner!

Help me to decide – what version should I sew for summer? I’m thinking of the lower scoop neckline and short sleeve…